Planting: Whether using a container or transplanting into the ground, plant in well-drained soil in a sunny location. Plant in a deep hole and cover the stem up to the bottom leaves with soil to inspire root growth and plant development.

Trench planting is also an option. Trench planting involves digging a trench about six inches deep, adding a tablespoon of super phosphate to the soil (well mixed), and laying the whole plant in the ground with only the very top of the plant exposed to the sunlight. For more information about trench planting, go to North Carolina State University Extension Publications, Growing Tomatoes in the Home Garden, https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/growing-tomatoes-in-the-home-garden.

Growing in pots: Tomatoes do not like to be confined to small pots for too long. The master gardener tomatoes are sold in one-gallon pots, which will work for a while, however, be sure to have 10-gallon grow bags, pots, or buckets with holes drilled in the bottom at the ready when overnight temperatures are appropriate to transplant outdoors for the season. Remember, tomato plant roots can go more than six inches deep into the soil so the more room you give them in a pot the happier they will be. Also, consider growing determinate plants in pots and indeterminate in the ground if possible. Determinate plants top off at around five feet tall and are easier to grow in pots than indeterminate which are vining and will grow until fall frost. Another wonderful option available for pots or patio growing this year are dwarf varieties, also available at the plant fair.

Watering: Tomatoes will perform better if they are a little dry rather than soggy. For plants in pots, providing a plastic roof or clear plastic cloche to keep the rain off is helpful, but not required. “Water regularly and deeply since tomatoes are deep-rooted plants, but avoid overhead irrigation, which can encourage disease,” according to “Sunset Western Garden Book of Edibles.” Author Forkner suggests reducing watering near the end of the season to encourage fruit ripening.

Support: Indeterminate tomatoes, those that grow like vines, benefit from supports such as cages, trellises or pole supports. Determinate varieties are more compact and bushier, reaching a fixed height.

Light and exposure: In the Pacific Northwest, placing pots along a south-facing wall is best for tomato success. A garden space with full sun for at least six hours per day, according to the Washington State University Extension Fact Sheet FS145E.

Potential problems: Tomatoes can be impacted by a variety of diseases and pests. Research and select cultivars that are disease resistant. Washington State University Extension Fact Sheet FS145E lists a variety of potential problems, including:

• Late blight: The fungal disease appears as gray-green coloration on leaves, stems and fruit, turning to dark blotches on the fruit. The fact sheet suggests avoiding over watering, removing infected plants or plant parts when symptoms are noticed, but do not compost them. Give plants ample space to support air circulation.
• Slugs: Common in Western Washington, slugs can completely consume younger plants, damage foliage of more mature plants and cause “hollowing damage” on fruit. To protect plants, remove weeds and debris, encourage predators; hand-pick and kill slugs that feed at night and use chemical-based baits with caution.
• Blossom End Rot: According to the University of Wisconsin, Wisconsin Division of Horticulture Extension, this condition often occurs on the first fruits formed on plants. Initially, water-soaked spots (resembling small bruises) appear, most often on the bottoms of fruits and include dark, leathery, sunken areas on the blossom end of the tomato. This is caused by a lack of calcium uptake and conditions where there is too much or too little water. Water evenly and mulch the soil to retain moisture during dry periods. Avoid practices that would damage roots, such as cultivating too near plants thereby cutting roots, use a good Cal-Mag fertilizer and do not “wash” out soil nutrient with heavy over watering.
• An additional resource regarding pests and diseases with tomatoes is the University of Maryland Extension’s Key to Common Problems of Tomatoes (https://extension.umd.edu/resource/key-common-problems-tomatoes/) and Washington State University CAHNRS and WSU Extension Hortsense website (https://hortsense.cahnrs.wsu.edu/).

Harvest and use: Harvest when the fruit reaches mature color. Tomatoes can be used in a wide range of preparations from fresh to frozen or dried to canned. For more information, check out the National Center for Home Food Preservation (http://www.uga.edu/nchfp/) or Oregon State University Extension Service’s site focused on canning tomatoes and tomato products (https://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/pub/pnw300-s).