2023 Skagit Master Gardener Plant Fair

Enjoy fun for the whole family – Saturday, May 13, 2023

By Claire Cotnoir and Hank Davies, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners and Co-Chairs of the 2023 Plant Fair

This exciting annual event kicks off the Skagit Valley gardener’s summer with thousands of quality garden plants for sale, all locally grown or selected by Master Gardeners and chosen for success in our Skagit Valley environment. The Annual Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Plant Fair is set for Saturday, May 13, 8 AM – 2 PM at the Skagit County Fairgrounds located at 501 Taylor Street in Mount Vernon. Parking is free – admission is free and the fun and knowledge you will gain is free. Follow the signs to the County Fairgrounds South entrance on Taylor Street. Be sure to tell your friends and neighbors about this exciting annual event.

This year’s Plant Fair perennial flowers and annual starts feature some spectacular varieties. You will find starts for exciting plants such as the fabulous Lisianthus – which is very difficult to germinate (we have done the hard part for you!) and we are excited to offer these other exciting varieties at this year’s Plant Fair.

• Lisianthus – a rare and beautiful rose-like plant! A wide variety of colors will be available including, Apricot, Beige Neo, Mint Green, Rouge, Gold, and Metallic Blue

• Coleus in a rainbow of colors–great for containers and accent colors

• Unusual and unique palette of Snapdragon flowers

• Canterbury Bells

• A beautiful collection of new Cosmos, including cupcake white, double click cranberry, and apricot lemonade
• Amaranth, Zinnia varieties, and of course, Sunflowers
• Bells of Ireland and Pumpkin on a Stick!

A wide variety of herbs and vegetables will be on sale including basil, dill, egg plant, Swiss chard, cabbage and leaf lettuces. Photo © Nancy Crowell

We’re excited to offer Lisianthus, a beautiful cut flower in a variety of unusual colors including Apricot, Beige Neo, Mint Green, Rouge, Gold, and Metallic Blue Photo © My Thanh Kim

Find unusual shade plants like these Hookers Fairy Bells. Photo © Jessimine Tuttle

In the vegetable section, the Master Gardener Greenhouse team’s goal was to select varieties for uniqueness, plants that are award-winning, and have growing and producing habits that match our location and climate. We are offering plants that do not need a greenhouse to be successful, and that are as disease resistant as possible given our wet weather and short season. A few examples of the vegetable starts you will find include:

• A wide variety of Basil including Dolce Fresca Genovese, an award-winning Basil that is compact, disease resistant, and reluctant to flower and bolt. Other Basils include Prospero Genovese, Deep Purple, and Thai.
• A vast assortment of hearty and tender herbs including a Dill Leaf variety.
• Many leaf lettuce varieties including arugula, Swiss chard, and a slow-to-bolt spinach variety that is also disease resistant.
• Some fun Brassica – or you might know them as members of the cabbage family, and a wide variety of eggplant including early, high-yielding varieties of Italian, Asian, and white.
• 7 varieties of peppers including many that are easy to grow and eager to produce including Bastan, an early ancho as well as Arapaho Cayenne. We are also offering this year Aji Rico, a medium hot award-winning conical pepper variety.

And finally, an array of early melon starts chosen for their flavor and hardiness. Please remember to make a list and bring your boxes as you are sure to leave with many more plants than you ever knew you wanted.

The 2023 Plant Fair covers the entire fairgrounds, both inside all the display buildings and outside. One entire building, Building D will be devoted just to tomatoes. Last year’s Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Plant Fair featured over three thousand tomato plants. The tomato starts are very popular and have sold out in previous years. For a complete list of the tomato varieties with descriptions, please go to: https://www.skagitmg.org/home/events/plant-fair/plantfairtomatoes/

Building D, aka the “tomato house”, is staffed with veteran tomato experts to help you pick out the right plants for your garden based on your preferences and garden conditions. And they love to answer tomato questions.

In addition to the plants available for sale and the expertise available from knowledgeable veteran local Master Gardeners, Plant Fair visitors will enjoy a variety of vendors selling handcrafted wares like jewelry, glass/metal art, wood sculptures, and even more plants. This year’s vendors will be selling bulbs, blooms, potted plants, locally sourced food, and drink in addition to the handcrafted items.

And, we are pleased to announce, based on your suggestions, this year we will have a spot set up where you can park your purchases while you peruse the other garden sections for possibly additional goods you can’t live without.

The Plant Fair offers a huge selection of locally grown plant starts, selected by Master Gardeners and chosen for success in our Skagit Valley environment. Photo © Nancy Crowell

Ferns and shade loving native plants Photo © Nancy Crowell

Iris varieties and many other flowering perennials will be for sale. Photo © Jessimine Tuttle

You should also try to make time to attend one of the short gardening presentations offered each half hour from 9 AM to 1 PM. They will be presented in Building B. We are excited to announce the inclusion of a Spanish language presentation on bees. Other topics that will be showcased and presented by our own Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners include tomatoes, questions, and advice. Master Gardeners will also be available on-site including some of our Plant Clinic experts to help you with plant questions and problems. A full list of presentations during the Plant Fair can be found on our website at https://www.skagitmg.org/home/events/plant-fair/

The Master Gardener mission is to support home gardeners by promoting science-based gardening practices and education in a partnership with WSU extension. The proceeds generated from the Plant Fair allow Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners to continue to support that mission.

Plant Clinics are held throughout the summer months and into the fall. You are encouraged to bring your plants and your questions to the Plant Clinics. Information on the dates and places for Plant Clinics will be available at the Plant Fair for reliable, science-based advice and help. For 50 years our WSU Extension Master Gardeners have been helping Washington communities with its gardening needs – providing science-based answers to plant production and plant problems and questions. Skagit County has had an active WSU Extension Master Gardener Program since 1977. For more information please go to our website here: https://extension.wsu.edu/skagit/mg/

ABOUT THE AUTHORS:
Claire Cotnoir and Hank Davies are the Co-Chairs of the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Plant Fair and are also co-cordinators of the Japanese Garden in the Discovery Garden on SR 536, west of Mount Vernon.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a Master Gardener, may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Stem the Landfill Tide with Vermicomposting

Convert Home Food Waste into an Organic, Nutrient Rich Soil Enhancement

By Katryna Barber, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

This isn’t typically a welcome topic to bring up at a dinner party, but the quantity of food thrown into landfills in this country is horrifying. Food makes up about 24% of the material in landfills. And, wait for it… the biggest contributors to food waste in America are not farms or industry, but families. Yikes!

Everyday, nutritional trash gets mixed in with sofas, plastics, and other debris, and makes its way to a landfill where it is dumped in a huge, stinking pile. Once there, everything is compacted and eventually buried where it doesn’t get the air needed to break down organic waste. Without air under the pile of buried garbage organic waste produces methane–a major greenhouse gas. Some landfills burn off the methane before it explodes, creating a vicious cycle by producing carbon dioxide, another greenhouse gas. To read about how landfills work see the reference at the end of this article. It may encourage your composting efforts.

Growing food and getting it to market requires water, energy, fertilizer, and land. These resources are wasted when food ends up in a landfill. To combat the problem, the EPA and the FDA have created a program called U.S. 2030 Food Loss and Waste Reduction Goal. On a national level, these organizations are working to reduce food waste, food insecurity, wasted resources, and climate change.

If You Care About the Earth, You Can Also Do Something
Beyond buying ugly produce we can do our part to help reduce food waste and have fun doing it. By composting at home, either in a pile or with a worm bin, we can stop the cycle by feeding worms our food scraps and letting them convert them into high-quality nutrients that can be used by plants and other life forms that live in the soil.

A pound or two of red wigglers (or manure worms) will break down your food scraps and produce several buckets of worm castings (poop)– the black gold of garden additives. The castings don’t stink and are very nutritious for plants, creating a positive cycle of returning nutrients to the soil. It might feel small, but it is a win-win, leaving our soil in better shape, and reducing landfill waste–one banana peel at a time.

The red wigglers thrive near the soil surface, eating decaying organic material. Photo by Craig Barber / Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners

The worm bin at the Discovery Garden sits outside year around, under the shade protection. Photo by Ginny Bode / Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners

The worms are fed regularly with food scraps which include all types of vegetables, coffee grounds and filters, even pancakes and banana peals! Photo by Ginny Bode / Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners
 Getting Started
A quick Internet search leads to many websites and blogs about vermiculture, worms, and worm bins. Locally, good information can be found at Seattle Tilth and Whatcom.wsu.edu. (See references below.) Mary Appelhof’s book Worms Eat My Garbage, is an awesome and thorough guide.
Before Starting, Explore Your Options
Be realistic about your living situation and caring for your worm bin. Worms are living beings, doing great work. Find an accessible place to locate the worm bin, either inside or outside. They reproduce rather quickly, so make sure you can accommodate them with enough food and space. Be prepared to have a place for the worm castings, either in your garden, or to share.
Do You Have Enough Food Waste to Keep the Worms Happy?
A pound of worms needs about 1/2 pound of food scraps a day. If you don’t have a scrap jar in the kitchen already, start one and see how much accumulates. Perhaps you will need to supplement their food with scraps from other sources.

Note: Never put meat, dairy, or oils in a worm bin. Don’t put pet waste or pet litter in a worm bin, either. A small amount of pulverized eggshells, or a bit of soil for grit, is okay, but avoid putting citrus rind or onion in the worm bin-they don’t like it.

Setting Up Your Worm Bin
Locate a place for the worm bin and have it ready for the worms. Then get the red wigglers. You can buy them online, but it will be easier and less expensive to find someone locally who already has a worm bin. These little creatures populate quickly. They can live up to 3 years or more, so overpopulation can be a problem. It is recommended for a family of four to start with a pound of worms or about 1,000 worms.

The optimum temperature range for red wigglers is between 55° and 77° F. Air circulation and moisture are important, since worms breathe through their skin, and need moisture to do so. They need regular feeding, though, thankfully, red wigglers are fairly resilient. Once, when I neglected to feed them for several weeks, I still found living worms a few inches down as I turned my bin over! They weren’t pleased, but by replenishing the bedding, and feeding with new food scraps and coffee grounds they were soon thriving.

Red wigglers will die if you just let them go in the garden. Unlike their earthworm cousins who live deep in the soil, red wigglers eat the mold and bacteria that lives on rotting plant material, usually on or near the surface of the soil.

Harvesting the Rewards
If your bin is large enough, divide it in half and stop putting food on one side. Feed the other half. Allow 5 to 6 weeks for the worms to migrate to the feeding side. Scoop out the worm castings on the deserted side and lay it on a tarp. If you find worms just put them back in the new bedding. Pile it up and let the worms crawl into the deeper, darker part. Harvest the poop. Diminish the pile, spreading it out, leaving some in a hill for the worms to retreat to. Repeat as needed. Put the remaining worms and material back into the bin. Harvest the other side later as needed.

An alternate method is to dump the whole caboodle out on a large tarp. Harvest the same way as above. Be sure to have bedding and food ready to start their new home.

If you decide to start a worm bin, congratulations! You are keeping carbon-based organic materials (food, paper) out of a landfill, reducing greenhouse gases, improving the soil, and learning about caring for red wigglers. Happy vermicomposting!

REFERENCES:
https://science.howstuffworks.com/environmental/green-science/landfill.htm

https://www.epa.gov/sustainable-management-food/united-states-2030-food-loss-and-waste-reduction-goal

Seattle Tilth Off the Shelf Worm Bin rev. 11/2012
https://tilthalliance.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Final-Seattle-Tilth-Off-The-Shelf-Worm-Bin.pdf
Thurston County, Thurston County WSU Extension
https://s3.wp.wsu.edu/uploads/sites/2056/2018/10/Worm-Composting-Workshop-Handout-2018.pdf

Appelhof, Mary. Ed. 1997. Worms Eat My Garbage. 2nd Ed. Kalamazoo, Mich., USA Flower Press

Martin, Callie
https://skagitcounty.net/PublicWorksSolidWaste/Documents/
Food Scrap Composting Booklet.pdf

https://extension.wsu.edu/whatcom/hg/worm-composting/

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
Katryna Barber is a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener and is a team member of the composting program at the Discovery Garden.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a Master Gardener, may be directed to: WSU Skagit County Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Midnight Marauders

Managing Those Pesky Slugs and Snails

By Diana Wisen, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Pacific Northwest gardeners probably spend more time discussing slug damage than almost any other garden problem. Slugs require moisture in the soil and vegetation, both of which are abundant in our area.
During cold or dry weather, they can move down into the soil. Adult slugs and snails live through the winter in this region, seeking shelter underground. In dry or hot weather, they can borrow down as much as 6 feet to find cool dampness. They can seal themselves off with a parchment-like membrane for protection from the elements. They are Gastropods from the Greek meaning “belly foot”.

Most of the slugs and snails you see in your yard are non-native, invasive varieties. The native Banana slug, a good guy, is found mostly in wooded areas, not suburban landscapes, and tends to eat only decaying matter. There are many species of non-native slugs that attack your plants.

Two of the most destructive are the common gray field slug, genus Arion (several colors of these large slugs), and the brown snail that is becoming more common as it can survive drier conditions easier than slugs.

Slugs eat young vegetables starts, strawberries, daffodils and tulips, and many other things, with new dahlia shoots and marigolds being among their favorites. You have to start early and be vigilant in your efforts to manage the slug and snail population in your yard. There is no such thing as just one slug. Slugs can lay anywhere between 30 to 100 eggs at a time, several times a year, mostly in late summer. Slugs are hermaphrodites: adults have both female and male organs, so all can lay eggs. Sometimes the eggs hatch right away and other times they hatch the following spring. Look for clusters of tiny, pearl-like eggs beneath leaf debris, boards, garden pots, and other damp places and crush them immediately.

Those little eggs will soon turn into ravenous baby slugs which eat 30-40 times their body weight every day! Their teeth are like a rasp that shreds the vegetation as they glide along. Slugs tend to come out at night or on cloudy days when it is cool and damp. This is your clue as to when to head out to hand-pick. However, only about 5% of the slugs are above ground at any given time, thus making control efforts difficult and ongoing.

There are five main types of control and for best results, you may have to utilize all of them, though you will never be able to eliminate slugs completely.

Biological:
Some predators eat slugs. Toads, frogs, snakes, and beetles will eat small slugs, so encourage them in your yard. Sometimes chickens and wild birds will eat baby slugs, but gag on large slugs. Ducks and geese eat slugs, but this poultry solution is not for everyone.
Cultural:
Change the conditions so the area is not conducive to slugs. Keep the soil dry. Mow nearby meadows or grassy areas. Keep a 6-foot-wide strip of dry, bare ground around your vegetable garden, use arborist chips for pathways, till your soil in early spring to expose the slug eggs, and plant things that slugs tend not to eat. Crushed eggs shells, ashes, and diatomaceous earth do not work. The slug’s mucus thickens to protect it from sharp surfaces.
Mechanical:
People love to talk about their favorite tools for slug control.
– A sharp shovel or weeding tool, a Hori-Hori knife, an old kitchen knife or scissors, or a hoe. Keep them all handy. Many people regularly go out at night or early morning with a bucket of soapy water on a search and destroy mission. The frequency is up to you, but the more often the better the results. Be sure to wear disposable gloves as slugs carry diseases such as Salmonella. Be sure to keep a lid
on the container.
– A wide band (3″) of copper tape firmly attached around the base of containers and raised beds will prevent slugs from climbing up. They will not cross copper. But make sure there are no slug eggs in the soil already in the pot!

This large red slug (Arion rufus) is one of the larger slug varieties, with an appetite to
match. This photo shows the slug’s round pneumostome (nose and breathing hole) and
the black optical tentacles protruding from its head. © Photo by Jason Miller.

Large red slugs descend on a pile of discarded raspberry canes. With voracious appetites,
these slugs can devastate many small plants overnight, skeletonizing the leaves and
diminishing the plants’ chances at survival. © Photo by Jason Miller.
Chemical:
There are many products on the market to kill slugs and snails. Read the label before purchasing and using it at home. Follow the directions exactly. The newer products are distributed differently than was done with the products of a few years back. Newer products use ferrous (iron) phosphate as the active ingredient and require only sprinkling sparsely over an area. Slugs are attracted to the bait, they eat it, and it makes them stop eating and slither away to die. You won’t see the dead bodies, but after a few days, you will notice the damage has stopped. These newer products remain active for up to 2 weeks, even if it rains. They are safe to use around children, pets, and wildlife.

There are some products available that use metaldehyde as the active ingredient and it works very well, but they can be poisonous to children, pets, and wildlife.

Home Remedies:
Do not use salt. Slugs rehydrate and salt damages your soil and plants. Fermenting yeast attracts slugs, so some people use beer. You provide the party, and the slugs show up, drink their fill and drown. It has its advantage. The slugs come to you; you don’t have to go out looking for them. You can use a cottage cheese carton, cut a couple of openings in the side, set it in the ground up to those holes, fill it with beer or your homemade brew, and put the lid on. Check and empty it every couple of days. Slugs are also attracted by the smell of dead slugs and show up to join the party. Keep your dog away since dogs are known to slurp up the whole thing, dead slugs, and all. You can use old beer, but not wine or stale beer. Apple vinegar sometimes works. You can also make your own fermenting recipe: 1 Tbsp brewer’s yeast or baking yeast, 1 Tbsp sugar, 2 Tbsp flour, and 2 cups tepid water. Mix and allowed to stand for an hour or so. It will last for 2 or 3 days.

Remember it takes regular attention and vigilance to manage slug and snail populations. Keep at it and over the years you will see a decline in the numbers you have in your yard.

About the Author:
Diana Wisen is a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener and is the Coordinator of the Fuchsia Garden at the Discovery Garden on SR 536 in Mount Vernon.
References:
Gordon, David George. 2010. The Secret Life of Slugs and Snails-Life in the Slow Lane Sasquatch Books, Seattle, WA

“Managing Slugs and Snails” State University- 10-Minute University OSU Master Gardener Program and OSU Extension Service

Those Pesky Slugs” Article by Mary Robson King County Area Extension Agent (now retired) May 2000

Schenk, George. 2002. The Complete Shade Garden. Timber Press, Portland, OR

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener, may be directed to:  WSU Skagit County Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination.  To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Cool Weather Vegetables

Getting the Garden Started Early in the Pacific Northwest

By Ruth Sutton, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Winter time in the Pacific Northwest, when the days are short, cool and cloudy, is the perfect time to check out seed catalogs and start thinking about what and when to plant. Our marine-influenced weather makes the perfect climate for growing cool-season vegetables that thrive in 40 – 70 degree temperatures. There is a long list of popular and common cool-season vegetables, including: spinach, kale, lettuce, onion, garlic, asparagus, cabbage, broccoli, beets, carrots, Swiss chard, peas, radishes, parsnips, and potatoes.

Planting and Temperatures:

Cool season vegetables must be planted early enough for them to complete their full growing cycle up to harvest before the temperatures rise. Once the air warms up, some of them will be triggered to bolt by sending up flowers and making seeds as they struggle to reproduce and survive.

Some seeds such as beets, carrots, cabbage, arugula and turnips will germinate with temperatures as low as 40 degrees Fahrenheit, while others need higher temperatures. Check out growing charts for our area as well as last frost dates, and make sure to check the seed packet or seed catalog for indication of the minimum temperature for air and soil prior to planting. Soil thermometers are inexpensive and easy to find and can assist in determining the soil temperature.

Seeds vs. Starts:

Look for seeds that are grown in a similar growing zone, and that are disease and bolt resistant.  Some vegetables, such as carrots, cilantro, parsnips, radish, and spinach are best sown directly into the garden soil. Most cool weather seedlings can withstand a light frost, and row covers can be used to protect the seedlings if necessary. On the other hand, cool springs can make it difficult to get good germination, and even some cool-season plants can benefit from being transplanted.Local stores and nurseries will soon be stocking cool weather starts.

The Onion Family:

One of the earliest to start in our area is the onion family. Leeks, shallots, and onions are very cold tolerant. If you have access to a greenhouse, now is the time to start onions from seeds. Once the starts are 4-5 inches in height, they are ready to go into the garden. Onion starts are hardy and can be transplanted as soon as March. Starts are usually available in nurseries this time of year as well. Make sure you grow the long-day or day-neutral varieties in our area. The local stores stock these varieties. Look for eastern Washington Walla Walla sweets in stores in March.

Peas:

Peas also thrive in the early spring weather. Although you can directly sow peas in late February and on, they can also be soaked overnight and then grown in seed pots until 4-6 inches in height. This has the advantage of preventing the peas from rotting in the ground in case of a very wet spring. Stagger your plantings a few weeks apart and you will have a succession of peas to eat. Popular varieties include Oregon Snow pea and Sugar Snap peas.

Of the onion and garlic family, leeks grow especially well in the Skagit Valley. Photo by Ruth Sutton

Swiss Chard is easy to grow and can be planted early in the spring. Photo by Ruth Sutton

Savoy Cabbage is a member of the Brassica genus as are broccoli and Brussels sprouts. Photo by Ruth Sutton

Leafy Greens:

Lettuce is another easy, popular vegetable to grow here. There are so many varieties of lettuce it can be dizzying trying to decide which to try. Whether you opt for the brilliant red of Gabriella, or the bright chartreuse of Simpson’s elite, all do well in the northwest climate and can be directseeded by March or a week or two before the last frost.  

Spinach is hardy as well in cool weather. Be sure to choose a variety that is bolt-resistant, as it loves to bolt when temperatures rise.

Swiss chard and kale are wonderful vegetables to grow in the PNW as they have few diseases or pests. They also have a long growing season. They can be seeded again in July or August for long winter harvest. In fact, the flavor of kale is improved after a frost due to carbohydrates in its cell walls that turn into sugar molecules.

And there’s more:

Cabbage is cold-resistant and a favorite for planting in late July or August for a fall and winter harvest. Garlic, another cool season vegetable, is planted by placing cloves in the soil in late fall for early summer harvest.  

Asparagus is a popular perennial, usually grown from starts. The fresh stalks popping up in early spring are eagerly anticipated. They need a permanent spot in the garden and take a few years before they can be harvested but are worth the wait.

Finally, don’t forget the northwest potato. The Skagit Valley farmers have grown potatoes here in the valley for many years. Planted usually around April, their tubers will grow underground until they are ready for harvest. They hold well underground as well.

With so many options for early gardening, what are you waiting for?

About the Author:

Ruth Sutton is a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener and Co-coordinator of the Vegetable Garden at the Discovery Garden on SR 536 in Mount Vernon.

References:

Leeks by Brian Charles Clark, Spring 2017, Washington State Magazine https://magazine.wsu.edu/2017/01/27/leeks/

https://extension.wsu.edu/snohomish/fall-and-winter-vegetable-gardens-for-western-washington/

Home Gardening Series by Carol Miles, Gale Sterrett, Lynnette Hesnault, Chris Benedict and Catherine Daniels. https://pubs.extension.wsu.edu/home-vegetable-gardening-in-washington-home-garden-series

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener, may be directed to:  WSU Skagit County Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination.  To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Heathers and Heaths

An evergreen shrub well-adapted for Pacific Northwest landscapes

By Robin Fowler-Lee, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

“No evangel among the mountain plants speaks Nature’s love more plainly than Cassiope.”
                                                – John Muir

Heathers and heaths, common in our area, have a multitude of characteristics and are well-adapted to the Pacific Northwest landscape. Ericaceae is the family of the heather plants, but it also includes rhododendrons, blueberries, mountain laurels, and more. While it’s a bit of a misnomer to categorize all shrubs of this character as “heather,” it is the predominant term for describing these compact, evergreen shrubs.

Our usage of the term “heather” includes:

• Heath, or Erica
• Heather, or Calluna
• Daboecia

Characteristics:

Erica (heath) has greater than 800 species and varies in size, texture, color, and form. Very few grow higher than 36 inches, and they can vary in width from 10 – 70 inches. There are tree heaths that can grow up to 10 feet tall, although they are easily damaged by frost in the Pacific Northwest. Heaths have ‘teeth,’ or needle-like foliage.

Calluna (heather) have ‘feathers,’ or flat, fan-like foliage. With over 300 cultivars, Calluna has the greatest variety in foliage color and can be attractive year-round.

Daboecia is the smallest group of heathers, usually growing smaller and seen in higher altitudes. There is another high-altitude species, Cassiope mertensiana, which is one of the wildflowers that grow along Mount Rainier.

Heathers can bloom in summer or winter, depending on the species. Foliage can change colors throughout the seasons. Calluna has more dramatic foliage changes but can also be winter or summer bloomers. They are drought-resistant, deer-resistant, unaffected by gophers, moles, slugs and snails, and dramatic if planted in drifts with room to spread.

Photo by Jessamyn Tuttle/ Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners.

Photo by Jessamyn Tuttle/ Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners.

Heaths and Heathers found the Discovery Garden on Highway 536 west of Mount Vernon begin blooming in early February and continue through the summer. Photo by Ginny Bode/ Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners.
Use in the landscape:
Designing with heathers can be an adventure, as there are so many forms, flowering colors, foliage colors, and textures. They mix well with conifers, rhododendrons, grasses, and other drought-tolerant perennials such as rosemary and sedum. They also fit in many garden styles including cottage, formal, Japanese, perennial gardens, and work well in containers. They provide nutrition for bees, butterflies, and birds.
Planting and cultivation:
Heathers grow best in acidic soil and sunny locations. In general, heathers should be planted in a location with at least 6 hours of full sun, where there is good drainage. Peat moss can be mixed with an acidic soil base to help roots establish. They have low nutritional needs; supplying a small amount of acid-loving fertilizer once a year for two years is all that is needed for healthy development.

Drip irrigation, if used, should emit water away from the crown. Mulching with a bark of various sizes, such as aged compost, partially decomposed conifer bark, pine needles, or chopped oak leaves is best. When mulching, allow breathing room around the crown. Although they love our fog, heathers can be susceptible to fungi if mulched heavily around the crown, and also if they are crowded with minimal airflow.

Pruning:
Compact heathers minimize weed proliferation and preserve moisture. Pruning should occur after flowering. Because there is so much variety in bloom time, sometimes it is easiest to prune both heather and heath in the early spring. Pruning should not occur in the extremes of winter or summer. When pruning, the stems should be cut just below the spent flowers but maintaining green foliage. They can be pruned with shears or an electric hedge trimmer. Hand clippers can also be used on the new plantings to develop a compact form. Pruning to a mushroom shape will give the shrub a compact form. The sides are best pruned as well as the top; just avoid cutting all the foliage on the sides, as this gives the heather a boxed look with naked, woody sides.

Erica usually requires less pruning and is less cold-tolerant. They tend to maintain their compact nature more than Calluna. Erica will grow fuller if dead flowers are removed in the early spring. They will send out new, fuller growth and more blooms with the early spring pruning. Calluna, however, depending on the variety and bloom time, can be pruned in the fall. Calluna will have a much better appearance if pruned annually. After the flowers fall off the stem no new foliage grows, and thus they can become gangly and unappealing if not pruned.

You can learn more about heathers at heatherworld.org or stop by the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener demonstration gardens: Discovery Garden (16650 WA-536, Mount Vernon, WA 98273) to explore the Heather Garden. Look closely at the foliage to see if you can distinguish the heaths from the heathers.

RESOURCES:

• David Small and Ella May T. Wulff, Gardening with Hardy Heathers, Portland, OR Timber Press, 2008
• Lloyd Eighme, “Heathers for Warm Gardens,” Pacifichorticulture.org
• John Muir, PlantID.net, White Mountain Heather
• Maria Krenek, UCCE, Master Gardener of Humboldt and Del Norte Counties, youtube, August 2020

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Robin Fowler Lee is a 2022 graduate of the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Program and is the coordinator for the Heaths and Heathers Garden at the Discovery Garden on Highway 536 west of Mount Vernon.

Birds In Winter

Enjoy the Antics of Winter Birds While Giving a Hand to Their Survival

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By Kathy Wolfe, Skagit County Master Gardener

Ah, January! The perfect time to relax in your favorite chair, a nice hot beverage and a few shortbread cookies at hand, and gaze out into the garden. It is a chance to dream: the first step to creating, planning and implementing new ideas, whether for your garden or in your life. It is also a good time to take stock of your garden seeds, cull out the old and order new. The earlier your order is placed, the better chance of getting the varieties you seek.

From the comfort of your chair, you may also notice winter birds flitting about. Birds are an integral part in the cycle of nature. Helping them get proper food, water and shelter will assist their winter survival and allow you to enjoy their antics.

On chilling winter days most birds fluff up their feathers to form insulating air pockets to help them stay warm. You may sometimes find a bird standing on one leg with the other tucked into its breast for warmth. Food availability is limited so filling your clean feeders with high calorie, fat containing food will help them survive. All feeders should be located out of the wind with some type of cover such as a bush, tree or ground plantings nearby to offer shelter, protect them from predators and allow them to survey the feeding area.

There are several types of feeders to use depending on what birds you wish to attract. Foraging, ground feeding birds, e.g., sparrows, juncos, quail and towhees, need low plantings or branches for cover so they can scoot in and out to a ground level feeding area with ease.

A male House Finch. Photo by Wes Jansen

A male Northern Flicker perched near suet feeder in the background. Photo by Wes Jensen

A Pileated Woodpecker feeding on a hanging suet. Photo by Wes Jansen

Tube feeders with shorter metal perching stations may attract smaller birds such as chickadees and finches, while excluding larger birds like jays. These feeders can build up mold and bacteria in the bottom which are harmful to birds so bring them in, clean out the bottom-most part of the tube, wash and dry thoroughly, before adding new seed.

Nyjer or thistle feeders, usually a fine-wired tube, are popular with goldfinch and pine siskin. They can become quite wet with rain so clean frequently, as you would all tube feeders.

Suet feeders can be constructed of wire or plastic-coated mesh and are either hung on a branch or nailed to a tree. Woodpeckers, nuthatches, and chickadees are some of the birds attracted to these feeders.

All feeders should be cleaned on a regular basis because moldy and decomposing seeds and hulls can get trapped and make birds sick. Bird droppings and contaminants also can spread infection and disease. Start by removing old seeds, take the feeder apart and handwash in hot, soapy water or with a diluted 1:9 parts bleach to water solution. Rinse thoroughly, dry and refill. Clean the area under your feeders to remove waste and spoiled food, as well as to avoid attracting rodents.

What to feed your birds? Black oil sunflower seeds are a great overall offering due to their high fat and protein content. They have twice the calories per pound of striped sunflower seeds and a smaller shell for less mess. Suet and peanuts are another great winter food. DO NOT feed birds bread in winter because it provides little nutrition, can cause obesity and malnourishment, as well as usually having preservatives and excess salt.

If you are lucky enough to have hummingbirds, continue to feed them a 1:4 solution of refined white sugar to tap water, the best and least expensive food for them. Boil this mixture until the sugar is dissolved then cool before filling the feeder. Clean once each week in winter using hot water and a bottle brush. Do not use soap. A diluted bleach/water mix (see above) can be used if you rinse the container very thoroughly before refilling. It is better not to have hummingbirds drink cold nectar because it can cold-stun them so bring feeders in overnight when it is cold and take out again first thing in the morning when the birds most need food.

In addition to food and shelter, birds need a reliable source of water. Shallow bird baths, fountains or small ponds, if kept clean and ice free near protected areas, will be well used.

In addition to seeds, birds also thrive on insects and berries. Viburnum, holly, cotoneaster, pyracantha, roses with hips, mahonia (Oregon grape), crab apple, snowberry, beautyberry and Pacific wax myrtle are all bird favorites in winter. Tuft-forming grasses left uncut in winter can house many varieties of insects for the birds’ enjoyment. Pines and spruces provide another source of seed that can be harvested all winter long from their cones. You might consider adding some winter fruiting plants or grasses to your yard for both winter interest and as treats for the birds.

Use this filter from The Cornell Lab of Ornithology to find specific birds by region, what they eat and which feeders they prefer: Common Feeder Birds – FeederWatch .

To interpret some interesting and entertaining bird interactions in your yard and for more information on backyard bird feeding go to: Power Struggles Are Playing Out at Your Feeder-Here’s What to Look For | All About Birds All About Birds .

Note to Readers: The highly pathogenic avian flu has hit the Skagit County Bird population particularly hard. If you see a dead swan or other bird, do not touch it. For swan please call the swan hotline for WDFW at 360-466-4345 x266. Here’s an update on the avian flu, including what to do if you see dead birds and how to keep your pets safe:

https://wdfw.wa.gov/newsroom/wdfw-statement/wdfw-statement-avian-influenza-outbreak-among-waterfowl-around-skagit-bay?mibextid=Zxz2cZ

Photo by Nancy Crowell

Photo by Ginny Bode

Photo by Ginny Bode
Our thanks to these photographers for lending use of their photos for this article:

Wes and Rosi Jensen of Fine Feathered Friends in La Conner www.fine-featheredfriends.com

Nancy Crowell, Crowell Photography

Ginny Bode

How to Grow Lisianthus

A rose by any other name…

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By My Thanh Kim, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Call it love at first sight. Four years ago, I fell hard for some mysterious flowers in a lobby of a hotel. They looked like roses except more striking with an abundance of green buds surrounding luxurious blooms. This was the beginning of an obsession.  I checked nurseries for plants but had no luck.  Over the next several years I saw them again, and then, while watching the 2020 (2021) Tokyo Summer Olympics, I saw my beauties, lisianthus flowers prominently displayed and my love affair with them started all over again.

While hard to find in flower nurseries it is possible to start lisianthus from seeds. Mastering the seed-starting techniques was a months-long process, but well worth it. In the end, I had nearly 2,000 plants and gave away buckets of beautiful blooms all summer long. These are the best flowers ever, and I want everyone to enjoy them.

Lisianthus, Eustoma grandiflorum, (commonly called prairie gentian, bluebell gentian) are valued for many reasons including their resemblance to roses, their long vase life as cut flowers, and their unique beauty. They come in many vibrant colors, romantic soft tones, and mysterious bicolor flowers.  In addition to their colors and shape, they are sought after by florists for their strong stems, lush succulent leaves, and graceful buds that continue to open in a vase for several weeks.  They are hardy in USDA hardiness zones 8-10. Lisianthus is not hard to grow, and starting them from seeds may be your best option if you want to have these gorgeous flowers blooming in your garden this summer.

Rosanne Green Lisianthus
Photo by My Thanh Kim

Lisianthus stems can be 18-36″ tall
Photo by My Thanh Kim

Lisianthus blooming in the author’s garden. Photo by My Thanh Kim

January is the perfect time to start lisianthus seeds

It’s January. It’s dark and cold. Though it is too early to start many seeds indoors but it is not too early to start lisianthus. Since they need at least 6 months from planting to bloom, starting them early is a must. Growing lisianthus from seeds is not for the faint of heart. They need constant attention for several weeks if not months. You may need to try multiple times before you can master the skill.  Follow these tips and with some practice and patience, you’ll be able to get many beautiful plants for your garden.

Get started with seeds, a container, seed starting mix

Make sure you get seeds from a reputable source. Lisianthus seeds can be challenging to germinate so make sure the seeds are fresh. The germination rate goes down with older seeds. You want to start with the best seeds possible. Seeds from reputable companies should come in pelleted form for easy handling. Seeds can also be collected from mature flowers. They must be handled with care because they are tiny like specs of dust.

Choose a container or tray that is at least 1.5″ deep to allow room for root growth unless you are starting them in soil blocks. Soil blocking is a method of starting seeds that allows for healthy root growth. Sterilize the container before planting the seeds to prevent diseases.

Don’t start in garden soil. Instead, choose a sterile seed starting mix that has either coco coir or peat moss. Since lisianthus seeds are so tiny, you’ll need a medium that is as fine as possible to allow for better contact with the seeds, sifting out all the large pieces before using it.

Lisianthus seed pods contain tiny seeds.
Photo by My Thanh Kim

Lisianthus seedlings. Photo by My Thanh Kim

ABC purple, Voyage 2 green, ABC green, and Rosanne green lisianthus. Photo by My Thanh Kim

Light, temperature, and moisture are critical to seed germination

Lisianthus seeds are considered some of the most difficult to germinate but provided with the right conditions, you’ll have a better chance of success. One of the most important things to remember is that lisianthus seeds need light to germinate. Sow the seeds on the surface of the seed starting mix and do not cover them. Keep the seeds from drying out by misting them with a spray bottle several times a day. Cover the tray with a clear plastic cover until they germinate in 10-14 days. The seeds germinate best at a temperature of 70 degrees Fahrenheit.

Congratulate yourself when the seeds germinate

If the seeds have germinated, pat yourself on the back. You’ve done the hard part. When about 50% of the seeds have germinated, remove the plastic cover. Place the seedlings under grow lights and fertilize lightly every week. Seedlings can be planted in the garden when they have 4 sets of true leaves. Lisianthus can tolerate some frost so they can be planted outside 6 weeks before the date of your last frost. Plant them in a sunny location in well-drained soil and water when the soil is dry. If everything goes well you will have beautiful blooms in July or August.

Quick Summary Tips

Getting lisianthus seeds to germinate is not hard but requires commitment and patience. Here is a summary of the tips to help get the seeds to germinate.

1. Fill a tray or container with some fine and sterile seed starting mix.
2. Sow the seeds on the surface of the mix. They need light to germinate so do not cover them with the mix.
3. Spray a few times a day to prevent the mix from drying out but do not over-water.
4. Cover the tray with a clear plastic cover to retain moisture.
5. Place under light to germinate. A desk lamp, LED light, or fluorescent shop light will work.
6. Keep the tray at room temperature around 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
7. Remove the plastic cover once about 50% of the seeds germinated (10-14 days).
8. Feed lightly every week. Place under grow lights.
9. Plant out in the garden or container once they have 4 sets of true leaves.
10. It may take multiple attempts to be successful but keep practicing. They are worth it.

About the Author:

My Thanh Kim is a graduate of the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Class of 2022. She currently serves as the greenhouse co-manager for the SCMG. She has a BS in biochemistry from Tulane University and a teaching credential for San Diego State University.

Resources

https://sakataornamentals.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/13/2022/02/Lisianthus-Cut-Flower-0921-SAKATA.pdf

Zigler, Lisa Mason (2014) Cool flowers: How to grow and enjoy long-blooming hardy annual flowers using cool weather techniques. St. Lynn’s Press, Pittsburg, PA.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener, may be directed to:  WSU Skagit County Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination.  To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Skagit Master Gardeners Share Favorites from Their Bookshelves

By Ginny Bode, Skagit County Master Gardener

Since I was young, I remember the happiness of curling up with a good book as the holiday festivities came to a close. Whether I found a book in the library or received it as a gift, my memories of books and Christmas go hand in hand. Now, often the non-fiction book in my hand is gardening related.

As a recent trainee and now graduate of Skagit County’s WSU Master Gardener program, a new world of books has opened. Early in the program we were taught to find scientifically-proven solutions for the challenges gardeners face instead of anecdotal remedies. Program leaders shared the best reference books for plant propagation, identification, pruning, even noxious weeds and pests found in our area.

The key identifier among Master Gardeners is desire to learn, particularly in their area of focus. When joining the program, I soon became aware that I was among people who not only shared my interest in growing plants, they were also very generous in sharing their knowledge and resources.

To create this list of books for gift giving I solicited fellow Master Gardener classmates for their recommendations to include along with those of program teachers. The following books are top-of-mind choices for both inspiration and reference this holiday season.

For Inspiration:

Windcliff by Dan Hinkley
It may look like a coffee table book, but Windcliff by Dan Hinkley is so much more than stunning photographs. Renowned plant hunter Dan Hinkley shares the stories of creating his two private gardens, Heronswood and Windcliff on Washington’s Kitsap peninsula. Through these stories he captures what it means to be a gardener. His warm prose with the photographs makes this a book you’ll go back to often, putting words to the passion for plants and creating outdoor spaces.
Animal, Vegetable, Miracle by Barbara Kingsolver
This book by best-selling fiction writer Barbara Kingsolver tells the story of the year she and her family attempted to live off only what they could grow or buy locally. An early proponent of the ‘eat local’ movement, Kingsolver brings to life our connection with the food we eat and the value of making meals together.
Handbook of Northwest Gardening by Anne Lovejoy
Considered a classic read for gardeners, Anne was one of the first to write about using organic techniques in the ornamental garden. Focused on building a sustainable garden, Lovejoy emphasizes good soil preparation, composting, mulching, and–the Master Gardener mantra-Right Plant, Right Place.

Skagit Authors:

Erin Benzakein’s books Discovering Dahlias, The Cut Flower Garden and a Year in Flowers, are an excellent resource for gardeners whose focus is growing flowers to share as well as to create a profitable business.

A Little Bit of Land by Jessica Gigot
This recent publication by Jessica Gigot opens the door for readers to her life as a sustainable farmer in the Skagit Valley. The joys and challenges of small scale farming, as well as making her way in an often male-dominated industry, and the path that led her to our valley.

Hinkley’s warm prose with stunning photographs captures his passion for plants and creating outdoor spaces.

Bring the first blooms of spring to your garden sooner by using Zeigler’s techniques for jumpstarting hardy annuals.

The American Horiticultural Society’s Plant Propagation book is a go-to reference for propagating plants in Skagit Master Gardener’s plant house at the Discovery Garden.

For Nuts and Bolts Learning:

Cool Flowers by Lisa Mason Ziegler
Between the first frost in November, and the warmer days of spring, we long to bring in the first blooms of spring and enjoy the beauty inside the home. Lisa Ziegler’s book Cool Flowers explains how to get a jump on early spring blossoms. She profiles over 25 long blooming ‘hardy annuals’ which can be planted during cool conditions rather than waiting for the warmth of spring. Embracing the Master Gardener mantra, Right Plant, Right Place, local gardeners have applied her techniques in our climate with gorgeous results.
American Hort. Society’s: Plant Propagation by Alan Toogood
Rather than taking an unvetted opinion from the Internet, seasoned Master Gardeners use this book as a go-to reference guide for propagating almost any plant. If you’re wondering when to cut, where to cut, when to use root hormone, or when just a cup of water works fine, you’ll find this fully illustrated guide to be an indispensable resource for multiplying your favorite plants.
Kew Gardener Guides:
The Kew Gardens, part of England’s Royal Botanical Gardens is home to 27,000 plant species and subspecies. The science gained from their garden research is captured in a wide range of books for gardeners, including many children’s books. The company’s garden books cover topics as diverse as growing drought friendly plants, medical plants, and recipes for what you grow.
The Apple Grower: A Guide for Growing Organic Apples by Michael Phillips
Looking for a way to grow good fruit organically? Orchardist and researcher Michael Phillips first wrote The Apple Grower almost twenty years ago. Now updated, Phillips guides readers through creating a healthy orchard ecosystem as well as evaluating natural strategies against pests.
100 Plants to Feed the Bees: Provide a Healthy Habitat to Help Pollinators Thrive by The Xerces Society
Bees play a critical role in our ecosystem. This user-friendly guide helps home gardeners create a healthy environment for pollination. Readers will be inspired by this book’s pictures and for attracting bees, butterflies or hummingbirds, learning how to protect and attract bees throughout the season.

When giving books for gardeners, unless they are pure photo inspiration (which truly has its place on a dark January evening in the PNW) look for books with clear instructions, pictures and/or illustrations. Look for climate relevance, i.e., while the world of succulents is enticing, many can be challenging to protect through our Northwest winters. Books listing both the common name and the proper name are helpful for both the seasoned and novice gardener. Find a book for a specific interest if known, i.e., bird feeding, vegetable growing in small spaces, kitchen gardens, or nature around us.

We live in one of the most wonderful places on earth for gardening. Joining the Master Gardener program for many is like finding your tribe. Whatever your growing focus is, the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener program is an excellent resource for those interested in plants and learning to grow better.

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Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener, may be directed to:  WSU Skagit County Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination.  To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.