Post: October 16, 2026

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Caneberries Need Fall and Winter Care

Proper preparation will bear fruit in the coming season.

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By Kari Ranten, WSU Extension Skagit County Master Gardener

Caneberries, including raspberries and blackberries, benefit from a fall and winter regimen of pruning and support to prepare the plants for winter dormancy followed by spring growth and summertime fruit.

Simply put, Oregon Agriculture in the Classroom says, “Caneberries are berries that grow on hard, woody stems that are called canes.” When left to their own devices, these hardy, willing growers can become a tangled bramble. However, when home gardeners provide the canes with seasonal discipline and support, caneberries will thrive and produce for 10 years or more. 

Raspberries and blackberries have a big commercial footprint in western Washington and Oregon, where the plants thrive in the temperate climate. Washington grows about 95 percent of the nation’s processed red raspberries annually, with the majority becoming frozen products. Oregon produced nearly 50 million pounds of blackberries, raspberries, boysenberries, and marionberries in 2020.

Government agriculture programs and research in Washington, Oregon, and in British Columbia have supported breeding programs to develop new varieties of raspberries and blackberries, plus cross-breeding of the two to develop loganberries, marionberries, and boysenberries. Washington State University (WSU) scientists have released 13 raspberry varieties, including the prolific “Meeker” variety and others including “Cascade Legacy,” “Cascade Premiere,” and “Cascade Gold.” New varieties feature high yields and disease resistance.

Tom Peebles, coordinator of the Small Fruits Garden. © Skagit County Master Gardeners

The WSU Extension Skagit County Master Gardener Discovery Garden in Mount Vernon has a modest garden dedicated to small fruits including caneberries, serving as a demonstration site for home gardeners. Master Gardener Tom Peebles oversees maintenance of plants in the Small Fruits Garden, including blackberries, raspberries, and boysenberries. Overall, Peebles said caneberries are not highly demanding and will reward gardeners because they “love to grow.” The Discovery Garden site features “Triple Crown” thornless blackberries, “Heritage,” “Tulameen,” and “Cascade Delight” raspberries (a variety developed by WSU). Before buying plants, Peebles recommends paying attention to the specific care and pruning needs of different caneberry varieties. “These are not high maintenance, and it is very doable for home gardeners,” he said.

The Discovery Garden, with more than 30 garden “rooms,” is located at 16602 State Route 536 (Memorial Highway) in Mount Vernon. The garden is open daily to the public from dawn until dusk.

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As so often is the case, when a crop is successful for commercial growers in a region, that’s a harbinger for good results for home gardeners too. Such is the case for caneberries. Home growers simply need to mark their calendars for seasonal tasks to keep the plants in check while also fostering practices to produce an abundance of luscious, sweet fruit that can be enjoyed freshly picked or added to recipes both sweet and savory.

Before offering specifics for fall and winter maintenance, it’s important to have a few basics about caneberries and important terminology. 

The PNW Handbook defines the difference between a cultivar and a variety:

A cultivated variety is commonly called a cultivar. A variation of a species which originated in cultivation and persists under cultivation. A wild variation may also be found that only persists under cultivation. Perennial plant cultivars are normally perpetuated by asexual propagation; that is, cuttings, grafting, layering, or tissue culture, among other methods. 

Variety (botanical) A fairly consistent natural variation of the species, which will more or less breed true.

When planning to add caneberries to the garden, buy dormant bare-root plants or container nursery stock certified and virus-free from a reputable nursery between mid-January and March in western Washington.

For planting, caneberries flourish in full sun and well-drained sandy loam soil 18 to 24 inches deep. To avoid Fusarium wilt, do not plant in soil recently used to grow strawberries, potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, or eggplant. Also, plant at least 300 feet away from wild caneberries to avoid pest and disease problems.

The best time to plant bare-root canes is November through March. You may plant one-year-old transplants in spring, after the danger of frost, or in early fall, when the soil is still warm. Space plants 1 to 2 feet apart in rows 8 feet apart. 

Mark your calendar for these free

Know & Grow Workshops
_____________________________________

Prepare Your Garden for Fall and Winter
Tuesday, October 20, 2026
1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Creating an Award-Winning Display Garden for the NW Flower and Garden Festival
Tuesday, November 10, 2026
1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Sakuma Auditorium
16650 SR 536, Mount Vernon, WA 98273

It’s wise to provide some support for these tough vines with trellising or hedgerows to organize and optimize plant growth, provide air circulation, and support plants under a heavy fruit load. Trailing varieties don’t need support but should be tied to a wire to help organize the vines.

In addition to the fall and winter pruning addressed in this article, overall care should include routine fertilization, weeding, mulching, pest management, and irrigation.

Red Raspberry (Rubus idaeus) is a perennial crop in the rose family. Raspberries can be summer-bearing or everbearing. Gardeners may choose from a wide range of cultivars, based on their preference for harvest timing and quantity. Varieties include summer- and fall-bearing (also known as everbearing). Black raspberries (Rubus occidentalis) ripen in late summer.

Blackberry (Rubus spp.) roots are perennial; however, most canes are biennial, meaning they develop canes in the first year, followed by blooming and fruit on the canes in the next season. Blackberry varieties include thorny and non-thorny; erect, semi-erect, and trailing; and early or late.

Caneberries have two phases of growth:

Primocanes: This is the first-year, leafy growth that develops and overwinters with fruit and flower buds. These vegetative shoots begin producing a crop for the following season. Some varieties, known as fall-bearing, will produce a crop on primocanes. 

Floricanes: The flowering and fruiting canes are then known as floricanes as they finish producing fruit. After harvest, floricanes die and must be removed to prepare for the emergence of the next set of primocanes.

Washington State University Extension provides an excellent free resource publication titled “Growing Small Fruits in the Home Garden,” publication #EM103E.

Fall and Winter Maintenance:

Autumn is the best time to remove dead floricanes along with those that are weak, broken, or looking ragged. To keep caneberry plantings contained, this is the time to dig or remove canes growing beyond the trellis or hedgerow.

This sets the plant up to produce new growth (primocanes) as spring comes on. Fall is the time to cut the original, fruit-bearing canes to the ground, to make way for the next set of new canes. Select the strongest five or 10 new canes. Again, for a robust fruit crop and healthy plants, pruning schedules and recommendations vary by plant type, requiring a little homework from the home gardener.

In general, summer-bearing raspberries produce about five canes the first year, following the primocane-to-floricanes phases. Everbearing varieties tend to bear fruit on the top third of the cane the first fall, followed by the lower two-thirds in the second summer of growth. Canes can be cut back after each phase of production, or gardeners may choose to cut everbearing canes to the ground in the fall after the harvest wraps up, which will result in no spring crop but will provide an extended harvest in late summer and fall.

Blackberries, as noted earlier, have perennial roots and biennial canes, making it important to properly care for, train, and prune the first- and second-year canes. Blackberries do not spread as much and can be managed as individual plants, maintaining 4 to 6 canes per crown. For all types of blackberries, prune out dead floricanes at the ground level in October or after. 

For trailing or semi-erect varieties, let the canes grow without pruning the first season, then provide a trellis to support the plants in the second season. Once fruiting takes place in the second year in midsummer, cut those canes to the ground. Then, train the up-and-coming new canes to the trellis. Trim back the number of canes for both trailing and semi-erect plants. For erect varieties, tie to a wire and cut first-year canes to 2 to 2.5 feet to encourage side-branching. Trim those side branches back to 12 to 15 inches in the dormant season. In the second year, after canes bear fruit, cut the canes to the ground and repeat the process.

Caneberries perform well in temperate climates; however, climate change has affected the commercial crop. WSU researchers in Puyallup noted reduced raspberry production as summer temperatures increase in western Washington. According to WSU, “the 2021 heat dome in the Pacific Northwest revealed how increasing temperatures and more unpredictable weather events can negatively impact even the most suitable climates for small fruit production. Commercial raspberry growers reported an estimated 30 percent yield loss, while blackberry growers faced an additional 40 percent loss.” More information is available at WSU’s “Beat the Heat: Mitigating Heat Damage in Caneberries and Blueberries” website.

These challenges reinforce the importance of tending to caneberries’ basic needs for moisture, pruning to prevent crowding, and pest control. With some tender loving care, these hardy, woody stems can produce a soft, delicious harvest.

References and Resources

Bolda MP, Joseph SV, Daugovish O, Gaskell M, Koike ST, Bettiga LJ, Gubler WD. Revised continuously. UC IPM Pest Management Guidelines: Caneberries. UC ANR Publication 3437.

Brun, C., DeVetter, L and Benedict, C. (2015) Growing Small Fruits in the Home Garden. Washington State University Extension publication EM103E. https://wpcdn.web.wsu.edu/wp-ecommerce/uploads/sites/2/product-3700-sku-EM103E.pdf

Davis, A. (2025). Late-winter Care Keeps Raspberries and Blackberries Productive. Oregon State University Extension Service. 

Finn, C., Strik, B., Moore, P. (2014). Raspberry Cultivars for the Pacific Northwest. Pacific Northwest Extension (OSU, Idaho and WSU) Publication PNW655.

Oregon Agriculture in the Classroom Foundation. (2026) Caneberries. 

Warmund, M. (2022). Pruning Raspberries, Blackberries and Gooseberries. University of Missouri Extension. Publication G6000.

Washington State University. (2025) Mitigating Heat Damage in Caneberries and Blueberries.

Washington State University. (2026) Small Fruit Breeding & GeneticsL Raspberries.

Washington State University. (2026) Small Fruit Horticulture Research & Extension Program

Western Garden Book of Edibles. (2010) Sunset. Menlo Park, CA.

Kari Ranten

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Kari Ranten is a retired journalist and health care communicator who became a certified Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener in 2024.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the WSU Extension Skagit County Master Gardener website.

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Post: October 2, 2026

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Growing Bulbs-Year-round Joy in Your Garden

The Pacific Northwest is the ideal place to grow a wide variety of bulbs, delivering happiness and beauty to your garden.

By Diana Wisen, WSU Extension Skagit County Master Gardener

Growing bulbs is like having a special friend visit every year. It is always a treat when they arrive. You have a good time together, and then they return home until next year. Just like bulbs, your friends do not all show up at the same time, school reunions being the exception.

Like your friends, bulbs have many different looks, habits, and characteristics, which makes it all the more fun and rewarding. With bulbs, you have to feed them only once, if ever, and you don’t have to clean up after them or entertain them.

Bulbs make great company with very little effort, which is why you should plant lots of bulbs of all kinds. Bulbs are dependable! The Pacific Northwest is the ideal place to grow a wide variety of these deliverers of happiness and beauty, and you don’t have to wait years for them to be at their best.

Bulbs and related corms, tubers, and rhizomes bloom at various times of the year. Skagit County has the ideal climate and soil for spring flowering bulbs. They like mild winters, cool, damp springs, and dry summers. We get enough heat for summer-flowering bulbs to bloom, and our long, mild autumns let them bloom longer than in other parts of the country where frost comes early. And who isn’t delighted to see snowdrops in winter?

Mark your calendar for these free

Know & Grow Workshops
_____________________________________

Prepare Your Garden for Fall and Winter
Tuesday, October 20, 2026
1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Creating an Award-Winning Display Garden for the NW Flower and Garden Festival
Tuesday, November 10, 2026
1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Sakuma Auditorium
16650 SR 536, Mount Vernon, WA 98273

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Bulbs are best seen en masse, so be generous and plant lots. For his 29^th birthday, Henry F. du Pont, American horticulturist and creator of Delaware’s Winterthur Gardens and Museum, planted 29,000 daffodils on a hillside and continued planting thousands of bulbs throughout his life. Given the right conditions and care, most bulbs increase in number over time, so planting them increases the beauty added to the world. Some summer bulbs need to be dug in the fall and replanted in the spring because cold, wet soil can cause them to rot. “Know your site” is always a gardener’s mantra.

Fall Planting
The best time to plant spring-blooming bulbs is in early fall, such as the first weeks of October, so their roots get a chance to start growing before cold weather sets in. The fall rains will nurture bulbs. PNW soils have sufficient phosphorus, so they usually don’t need the addition of a chemical fertilizer. If you don’t know your soil type, perform a soil test.

Follow the planting instructions that came with the bulbs. A little deeper is better than too shallow. Remember the roots go down. Surprisingly, many people do not know which end of a bulb goes down. It is helpful to add a couple of inches of organic mulch on top of the soil. Mark the spot to remember where you’ve planted. Save the package label for reference, though surprises are fun.

In the fall, you can add organic mulch on top of all your garden beds. First remove any diseased plant material. Most bulb foliage will have decomposed by then. Dig up, clean, and store the tender summer bulbs such as Abyssinian gladiola (Gladiolus acidanthera/G. murielae), canna, caladium, and dahlias. Some people take a chance and leave their dahlias in the ground or treat them like annuals. It is your choice.

Spring-blooming bulbs to plant in the fall

Daffodil (Narcissus spp.), tulip (Tulipa), triplet lily (Triteleia), scilla (Scilla spp), grape hyacinth (Muscari spp.), hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis), fritillaria/crown imperial (Fritillaria imperialis), spring starflower (Ipheion), foxtail lily (Eremurus), snow iris (Iris reticulata), and snowflake (Leucojum) are popular examples. Bulb catalogs offer many more possibilities. A lovely flower to have is our native trillium (Trillium spp). Buy from a reputable nursery or try starting from seed. Do not attempt to dig and divide it. It will not survive.

Winter-blooming bulbs are also planted in autumn, typically 6-8 weeks before the ground freezes. Enjoy cyclamen(Cyclamen spp.)-some varieties bloom in November and December; some a little later. They will bloom in full shade. Cyclamen spreads nicely, but the corm gets very large and settled, which makes it difficult to divide. It needs its own space, left undisturbed.

A word of caution: Most bulbs like well-drained soil, except some iris. You may have to amend your soil with coarse grit or use raised beds if you have heavy clay soil. Do not water spring-blooming bulbs in the summer. They need to stay dry while they are dormant.

If you still have a package of unplanted bulbs in your garage, get them in the ground as soon as possible. They may not come up as readily or be as productive. If they are moldy or soft, do not compost them, put them in the garbage.

Control slugs and snails with a wildlife- and pet-friendly product. These voracious eaters start coming out to feed when temperatures reach 40° F. Most of us aren’t out in the garden then, but it is a good time to get out regularly to remove slugs and early weeds. Our cool-season weeds love this time of year and will produce large quantities of seed when you aren’t looking. 

Spring-This is what you have been waiting for
Enjoy the fruits of your fall labor. Take time to look at your garden thoughtfully. Does your yard bring you joy and add beauty and enrichment to your neighborhood?
Summer Bloomers
The time to think about summer bulbs is in the spring. Many wonderful summer-blooming bulbs are worth considering. Many look beautiful on their own, and others look nice interspersed with shrubs and perennials such as peonies.

Early spring, after the last frost (typically in early May), is usually the safest time to plant summer flowering bulbs such as gladiola, canna, and other blooming bulbs and corms native to warmer climates. Dahlias can be started in pots indoors if you want a jump start for earlier flowering. For these bulbs to grow, garden soil needs to warm up, so Mother’s Day is a good time to plant dahlias in the ground. But be sure to bait for slugs, or you will think your dahlias are not coming up.

One of the nice things about summer bulbs is that they bloom the first year you plant them, and you can move them next year if that spot doesn’t work out. This is not as easy to do with woody blooming plants. Sometimes peonies can take 3 years to bloom, and many perennials take 2 to 3 years to get well established and look their best.

Summer-flowering bulbs you might like to try

• Lily (Lilium spp.). There are many types, some but not all are very fragrant. Some of the hybrid oriental lilies can grow 6-8 feet tall, making them beautiful in the back of a border garden. Lilies also do well in containers if you want to enjoy their scent on your patio.
• Allium (Allium spp.) is available in many kinds and sizes, from chives to the giant globemaster and every size in between.
• Begonia (Begonia spp.) comes in all sorts of flower and leaf colors now. Some are wonderful for hanging baskets, and others can grow quite tall. Begonias perform well in shadier areas
• Powell’s swamp lily (Crinum x powelli) has long, strappy leaves and multiple lily-like flowers and needs warmth.
• The scented gladiola, (Gladiolus acidanthera) is a small bulb to plant in bulk. It is very fragrant, and each has many blossoms over a long bloom time.
• Calla lily (Zantedeschia) is not a true lily. Most can tolerate wet soil.
• Lily of the Nile (Agapanthus), has striking cobalt blue flowers on long stems. It can be hardy here, but is better in pots with winter protection.
• Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’, is the popular bright red cultivar.
• Pineapple lily (Eucomis spp.) needs warmth and very good drainage. It takes up quite a bit of space.

Some bulbs don’t bloom until late summer or early fall, such as autumn crocus (Colchicum autumnale), which is not a true crocus but resembles them. These are sometimes called naked ladies because their strappy leaves die away long before the flowers emerge. Also good for late summer are crimson flag (Hesperantha coccinea), gayfeather (Liatris spp.), and spider lily (Nerine spp.).

As the blooming season wanes and foliage begins to die back, relax and let it be. The plant is making next year’s flowers. You can add fertilizer, but let the leaves do their thing on their own time so their flowers can come back and bring you happiness next year.

If you want to take a deeper dive into learning about bulbs, corms, rhizomes, and tubers jump over to our blog post titled The Amazing World Of Geophytes.

References and Resources:

Ashmun, B. (1996) “200 Tips for Growing Flowers in the PNW”. Chicago Review Press, Chicago, IL

Bryan, J. (1994) “Bulbs”. Prentice Hall Macmillan, New Jersey.

Carey, J. (2026) “The Essential Guide to Growing Bulbs”. Timber Press, Portland, OR

(1997) “Bulbs” Eyewitness Garden Handbooks, DK Publishing

Hill, L. and Hill, N. (1999) “Bulbs- Four Seasons of Beautiful Bloom”. Storey Communications, North Adams, Massachusetts.

Lovejoy, A. (1995) “Seasonal Bulbs for PMW Gardens” Sasquatch Books, Seattle, WA

Mathew, B. and Swindells, P. (1994) “The Complete Book of Bulbs, Corm, Tubers and Rhizomes” Reader’s Digest Publications

McDowell, M. (2023) “Du Pont Gardens and The Brandywine Valley” Monacelli Press, New York, NY

van der Kloet, J. (2023) “Growing Bulbs in the Natural Garden” Timber Press, Portland, OR

Diana Wisen

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Diana Wisen has been a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener since 1991 and is the coordinator of the Hardy Fuchsia Garden at the Discovery Garden, and speaks regularly on many garden topics including the joy of bulbs, weed identification, and slug and snail management.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the WSU Extension Skagit County Master Gardener website.

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Post: September 18, 2026

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Birds: The Unsung Heroes of the Garden

Attracting birds to your garden naturally supports plant health and pest control.

By Kathy Wolfe, WSU Extension Skagit County Master Gardener

Most gardeners relish getting their hands in the dirt and watching the landscape flourish as a result of their efforts. However, there are days when we wish we had a team of assistants working beside us to lighten the load. Believe it or not, you already have year-round help that doesn’t take a paycheck. Yes, our feathered bird friends are there to help us in many ways that often go unrecognized. Once we realize their value in shaping our landscape, we can home in on specific species to entice them into our yards as our little helpers. Let’s explore.

Birds are marvels at pest control. Protein-rich insects are essential for feeding birds’ young and fledglings in the spring. Some songbirds consume hundreds of insects in an hour. Imagine how many aphids, caterpillars, beetles, ants, earwigs, codling moths, and mosquitoes would still be invading our plants without the help these birds provide. Larger birds of prey, such as owls and hawks, can control rodent populations that are not only destructive but also carry disease. While starlings and blackbirds may not be as popular as songbirds, they do snack on slugs. Something to cheer about!

We often think only of bees, butterflies, and flies as pollinators extraordinaire, but hummingbirds and other nectar-feeding species also play an integral role in pollinating flowers and native wildflowers. 

Seed dispersal is another ecological benefit from birds. Songbirds, such as finches, towhees, and sparrows, have a great appetite for a variety of seeds. According to studies by Penn State University, these birds help keep weed populations in check by consuming weed seeds. Because they fly great distances, birds spread a variety of seeds through their droppings, which contributes to biodiversity and resilience of plant communities. In the eye of the gardener, this can be a plus or an annoyance depending on what the seed is and where it chooses to take root.

And don’t discount the psychological benefits birds supply us. Research published in the National Center for Biotechnology Information states that bird watching and hearing bird songs lower stress, anxiety, and depression, and create a rewarding connection to nature. 

Mark your calendar for these free

Know & Grow Workshops
_____________________________________

Prepare Your Garden for Fall and Winter
Tuesday, October 20, 2026
1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Creating an Award-Winning Display Garden for the NW Flower and Garden Festival
Tuesday, November 10, 2026
1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Sakuma Auditorium
16650 SR 536, Mount Vernon, WA 98273

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Here are some common birds that we might consider recruiting into our garden workforce.

Chickadees: These little cuties are especially helpful in controlling caterpillar populations, and their energetic behavior and familiar song can brighten one’s day.

Wrens: While inconspicuous LBBs (little brown birds), wrens are particularly fond of spiders, caterpillars, and other small insects. They prefer dense shrubbery for cover. Consider adding some shrubs to your garden plan.

Swallows: Have you ever watched these aerial hunters snatch flying insects like mosquitoes, flies, and moths from the sky? These speedy acrobats are attracted to open spaces like lawns and meadows.

Robins: We often see these recognizable, curious birds hopping around our gardens, cocking their heads as they listen for worms and singing a repertoire of melodious songs to attract mates in the spring. In addition to earthworms, robins eat insects and larvae found in lawns and gardens. 

Nuthatches: Look for these agile birds hanging onto tree trunks and branches, foraging for beetles, caterpillars, and ants. Having larger trees in your landscape will attract them to your yard.

Let’s consider what birds need to thrive in a yard. As with many species, the basics are water, food, and shelter. While birds prefer moving water or a natural pond, a fountain, recirculating water feature, traditional bird bath, or even a shallow dish will suffice. Just make sure to keep the water fresh and the containers very clean to reduce bacterial contamination and the spread of disease.

The subject of feeding birds is becoming controversial. Many of us enjoy drawing the birds that visit our bird feeders so we can observe them closely. Feeders have some disadvantages over natural habitat because they can transmit disease through contaminated droppings and spoiled seed, can make birds dependent on getting fed and reduce foraging skills, can alter migration patterns, which leads to overcrowding and increased competition for food, and can attract predators including rats, squirrels, cats, and hawks. If you are a bird feeding enthusiast or don’t have access to creating your own natural habitat, make sure to keep those feeders clean and remove excess seed from the ground to discourage rotting and vermin. The birds will thank you for that.

How do we start our journey to attract more birds? Start by researching the birds that are already visiting your garden. Are they permanent or migratory? Ground feeders or tree dwellers? Determine what food sources are needed year-round to sustain the birds you wish to attract. Set up protective shelter areas, and ensure the availability of nesting sites and water sources for drinking and bathing. Consider leaving some brush piles and tree snags in your yard to provide potential shelter and attract hibernating insects as bird food. Leave seedheads in your winter garden to provide food when it is scarce, and allow leaf litter to remain for bird scratching. 

If you are interested in establishing a bird-friendly ecosystem in your yard, the Pacific Horticulture article “Feeding the Birds, Au Naturel” by Joe Seals, offers an extensive list of large trees, shrubs, and perennials that layer into the landscape to attract a wide variety of birds. He also has many helpful planting tips to kickstart your project. See the link in reference at the end of this article.

Looking for more local plant ideas to add to your garden? Check out the Audubon Society’s Native Plant Database website at Audubon.org to choose the best plants for your area. They also have fact sheets on creating a native plant garden, along with ideas to save you money along the way.  

And don’t forget our own Salal Native Plant Society’s offerings of information and plant sales at wnps.org. Visit their garden on the property of WSU Mount Vernon Northwestern Washington Research & Extension Center in West Mount Vernon, 16650 State Route 536, Mount Vernon. 

If you aren’t familiar with the Cornell Lab of Ornithology, you are in for a treat. Their new project, “Garden for Birds,” can give you specific guidelines for creating a nourishing garden habitat for birds, bees, butterflies, and other wildlife, no matter how large or small your yard, patio, or balcony is. You can subscribe for free at their website Gardening for Birds. 

By attracting more birds to your garden, you may lose a few berries and gain some unwanted seeds in your garden beds. Still, the reduction in pests, the increase in pollination, and the creation of a diverse ecosystem are great benefits. And the joy of the robin’s morning song, the yellow flash of a goldfinch in flight, and the majestic soaring of the red-tailed hawk are worth the price.

References and Resources:

Smith, M. (updated 2023) “Inviting Birds to Your Garden”, Mandy L. Smith, Extension Educator and Master Gardener Coordinator, Westmoreland County, Penn State University Extension.

Seals, J. “Feeding the Birds, Au Naturel”, Joe Seals, Pacific Horticulture magazine, Spring/Summer 2023.

Carson, R. “Avian Ecosystem Services: The Benefits of Birds in our Lives”, Landmark Alliance.

Hill, J. “Beyond Birdfeeders: How to be a Bird Friendly Gardener”, Rock, Walworth, and Jefferson Counties, Wisconsin Horticulture, a division of University of Wisconsin-Madison.

“Bird Gardening” William T. Kemper, Center of Home Gardening, Missouri Botanical Garden.

Lamp’l, J. and Rowden, Dr. J. “How to Create a Bird-friendly Yard”,  National Audubon Society, podcast #076, November 1, 2018.

Kathy Wolfe

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Kathy Wolfe has been a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener since 2002. She can often be found in the vegetable garden at the Discovery Garden on SR 536 west of Mount Vernon. She gardens in Skagit County and enjoys writing about the nature that surrounds us and the health benefits of gardening.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the WSU Extension Skagit County Master Gardener website.

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Post: September 4, 2026

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Fall Pruning and Seasonal Care for Shrubs and Trees

It is key to understand growth and flowering habits of your trees and bushes as you are tidying up for the season

By Anne Kurt, WSU Extension Skagit County Master Gardener

At the tail end of summer, it seems that most of the hard labor of May, June, and even July has lightened up, and we’re able to spend more time admiring the results of another glorious gardening season in the Pacific Northwest.

Our veggies are ready for harvest, late-season flowers are still blooming, and shrubs and trees are starting to change color, alerting us that autumn is just around the corner. The moderate temperatures are inviting, making this a great time to take a look around, assess what went well, and start thinking about transitional tasks for fall.

By now, you should also be able to see how your shrubs responded to spring pruning. Cuts in the spring produced a rush of new growth that you can continue to shape through summer. However, as we enter fall, we must carefully evaluate which tasks help plants prepare for winter and which ones should wait until spring.

This time of year, the growth response in our shrubs and trees has slowed down so roots can store energy for dormancy. Pruning cuts can trigger tender new shoots that are susceptible to the freezing temperatures that winter brings. Open pruning wounds are slower to seal when the weather is cool and damp, increasing vulnerability to insects, disease, or rot. Many shrubs have already set buds for next year’s flower display, so improper pruning could also cost a full season of blooms! 

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Spectacular Fall Color – How You Can Have it in Your Garden
Tuesday, September 15, 2026
1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Prepare Your Garden for Fall and Winter
Tuesday, October 20, 2026
1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Creating an Award-Winning Display Garden for the NW Flower and Garden Festival
Tuesday, November 10, 2026
1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Sakuma Auditorium
16650 SR 536, Mount Vernon, WA 98273

As you are tidying up for the season, understand growth and flowering habits before making any cuts, then focus your pruning on the following:  

• Prune dead, damaged, or diseased wood any time of year. Evaluate any crossing or deranged branches. If removal creates a larger wound, it may be best to wait until late winter or spring to provide the best opportunity for healthy healing.
• Remove suckers from the base of shrubs or trees. These tender shoots are usually lighter in color and shoot straight up from the trunk at the base.  
• Trim branches that are rubbing against a structure or creating a safety concern to people or property. Hazardous limbs at risk of wind or snow damage should also be removed (broken branches can tear bark or split trunks, causing severe injury to trees and shrubs). 

Refrain from pruning shrubs that bloom on old wood, as these have already set buds for next year. Rhododendrons, big leaf and oak leaf hydrangeas, forsythia, pieris and lilacs are a few examples of shrubs in this category. Removing a small branch back to its point of origin will not affect overall flowering, but wait until after spring flowering for most pruning needs.

Shrubs that bloom on new wood can tolerate fall pruning, but wait until their leaves have dropped and they have entered dormancy. After cutting out dead, diseased and damaged branches, you can gently shape shrubs by trimming back stems up to one-third their volume. These include:

• Panicle (Hydrangea paniculata) and smooth (H. arborescens) hydrangeas
  Deadhead spent blossoms to prevent snow from weighing down and potentially snapping branches; but do consider leaving a few flowers for overwintering birds and beneficial insects. Read more about identifying and pruning hydrangeas.

• Japanese spirea (Spirea japonica)
  If the shrub has become overgrown or leggy, pruning during dormancy will encourage healthy, compact growth in the spring. After the shrub has dropped its leaves, cut all stems to 6″-12″ above the soil. However, spring bloomers like bridal veil spirea should be pruned immediately after flowering.

© Adobe Stock

Planting Shrubs and Trees

Autumn is an ideal time to install, transplant, or relocate shrubs and trees. The moderate temperatures and Mother Nature’s water contributions ease stress on plants as they settle into their new space. Evergreens can be transplanted in early to mid-fall, but deciduous shrubs and trees should wait until after the leaves drop in late fall. Wait until spring for either variety to do any pruning, so the plant has time for the roots to become established.

When planting, dig a hole twice the diameter of your root ball and ensure the hole is well watered. Gently loosen or detangle any binding roots in the root ball. Place the root ball in the hole, ensuring the root collar (the flare where the trunk meets the roots) is about 1″ above ground level to allow for settling. Backfill with soil and water again. Monitor watering needs and supplement during any dry spells. Mulch around the base of the plant, leaving about 3″ around the trunk area clear.

As leaves begin to fall, we have an opportunity to insulate sensitive trees and shrubs from harsher days of winter. Fallen leaves applied as mulch around the base can act as a thermal blanket protecting roots from freezing. This mulch also provides a winter habitat for beneficial insects and worms that will enrich your soil. Simply rake or blow leaves around the base of your shrubs, trees, and garden beds. Avoid using a mower to shred and collect leaves, as it can disturb insects and eggs that may already be present. Using leaf litter for mulch will also help suppress weeds and retain moisture while decomposition provides the soil with valuable nutrients.

As the gardening season winds down, we often have a strong desire to “tidy up,” but keep in mind that not every shrub needs a haircut and not every fallen leaf needs to go into the yard waste bin. Resist the urge to over-prune, plant wisely, and put fallen leaves to good use. The result may not be the tidiest garden in the neighborhood, but beneath the surface, roots are growing, beneficial insects are finding shelter, and plants are quietly preparing for spring. This is your time to step back, let plants rest, and anticipate the beauty that next spring will deliver.  

References and Resources:

Reasons to Prune Trees and Shrubs (Home Gardening Series). Washington State University Extension

Kohlhauff, T. Pruning Woody Landscape Plants. Washington State University Extension

General Care for Hydrangeas. (2018) Oregon State University Extension

Lilly, S., Gilman, E., Smiley, E.T. (2018) Best Management Practices: Pruning. International Society of Arboriculture, Atlanta, GA

Leave the Leaves  Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation, Portland, OR

Anne Kurt

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Anne Kurt is a Pacific Northwest gardener and certified Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener (2024) with a passion for sound, research-based landscape care. In early 2026, she became a certified Master Pruner through Plant Amnesty, deepening her knowledge of proper pruning techniques and principles. She gardens in Skagit County and enjoys sharing what she learns with fellow gardening enthusiasts.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the Skagit County WSU Extension website.

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Post: August 21, 2026

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Garden Heroes in the Late Summer Heat: Drought-tolerant Groundcovers

Once established, these hardworking groundcovers go to work providing many benefits with little help from the gardener

By Ginny Bode, WSU Extension Skagit County Master Gardener

As the warmest days of summer are here, when temps tend to creep the highest, many garden perennials need regular watering to make it through to the cooler days of fall. Not so with these tough, hardworking perennial groundcovers. These drought-tolerant beauties are workhorses in the landscape, meeting a host of needs, including weed suppression, soil moisture retention, erosion prevention, and pollinator support. And the bonus is that they are low-maintenance.

In the garden, the term groundcover can refer to many things, including various mulches, hardscape, landscape fabric, and low-growing spreading perennials and evergreens. Here we’ll focus on the abundance of drought-tolerant perennials less than 12″ tall, which will make your garden both beautiful and easier to maintain. 

The Benefits of Groundcovers

Weed Barrier
Low-growing groundcovers form a dense mat over the soil, reducing the amount of sunlight that reaches weed seeds. Their thick foliage competes with weeds for water and nutrients, making it harder for unwanted plants to establish. By quickly spreading and covering bare ground, these plants act as a natural barrier against weed growth. 
Erosion Control
Ground covers anchor the soil with their extensive root systems, holding it in place on slopes and hillsides. Their foliage reduces the impact of raindrops, minimizing soil displacement and runoff. By forming a continuous, protective layer, ground covers effectively prevent soil erosion and help maintain hillside stability.
Low Maintenance
When we say low maintenance, how low do we mean? Very low. Once established, no regular water is needed; just rake out the dead leaves or leave them as mulch for weed suppression and food for beneficial insects and salamanders. Some may need trimming to contain every so often. These groundcovers work especially well for the gardener who wants a low-maintenance alternative to grass in a restricted area, such as a hellstrip or beside a sidewalk. Some are tough enough to take foot traffic-but wear your shoes; pollinators like them too!
Pollinator Friendly
Many groundcovers produce flowers that attract bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects. These plants provide a reliable source of nectar and pollen throughout the growing season. By supporting pollinators, ground covers contribute to a healthy and biodiverse garden ecosystem.

Mark Your Calendar for These Free

Know & Grow Workshops

Spectacular Fall Color – How You Can Have it in Your Garden
Tuesday, September 15, 2026
1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Prepare Your Garden for Fall and Winter
Tuesday, October 20, 2026
1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Creating an Award-Winning Display Garden for the NW Flower and Garden Festival
Tuesday, November 10, 2026
1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Sakuma Auditorium
16650 SR 536, Mount Vernon, WA 98273

Make your ground cover selection based on location and need.

Different drought-tolerant groundcovers will be more successful in specific conditions. Some do a better job of binding to soil on rocky slopes or in seaside conditions. Others do better with some shade.

Consider your current situation and desires:
– Is it sunny and dry during the summer months? 
– Is the area shady and dry?
– Do you have a slope that needs erosion control?
– Do you desire that it is evergreen?
– Native or native hybrid?

When Ralph Waldo Emerson wrote “What is a weed but a plant whose attributes have not been discovered,” he could have been looking at the native viola/violet. Despite its reputation for being invasive, it performs well as a groundcover and can be mowed. Washington state is home to 25 species of violas, which support many types of wildlife. It loves sunny meadows and damp riverbanks. It is the exclusive food source for the caterpillars of the endangered Oregon silverspot butterfly. Photo © Viola: Adobe Stock, Photo Silverspot © Richard Gardner, Bugwood.org

Sun

– Creeping raspberry aka crinkle-leaf creeper (Rubus pentalobus, synonym Rubus calycinoides)
– Rockcress (Aubrieta)-native or hybrid
– Seaside daisy ‘White Lights’ (Erigeron glaucus)
– Stonecrop family (Crassulaceae): Hens and chicks, sedum, and stonecrop are resilient, drought-tolerant succulent perennials that thrive in full sun and well-draining soil.

Shade:

– Mugworts (Artemisia pycnocephala) ‘David’s Choice’ handles sun or part shade
– Seaside daisy (Erigeron glaucus) ‘White Lights’ or ‘Cape Sebastian’
– Wild ginger (Asarum caudatum)*
– Oregon wood sorrel aka redwood sorrel (Oxalis oregana)*
– Bunchberry (cornus canadensis)*
– False lily-of-the valley (Maianthemum dilatatum)*

Slopes**

– Stonecrop (Sedum spp.)
– Rockcress (Aubrieta deltoidea)
– Hens and chicks (Sempervivum tectorum)

Evergreen:

– Kinnikinnick aka bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi)
– Stonecrop (Sedum spp.)
– Redwood creeping wintergreen (Gaultheria procumbens ‘Redwood’)-not to be confused with the invasive wintercreeper (Euonymus fortunei)

Native (*) or Hybrid:
Native plants are species that occur naturally in our region or ecosystem without human intervention, having adapted over time to the local climate and soil conditions. Nurseries have developed hybrid plants by crossbreeding plant varieties or species to create different bloom colors or more desirable traits, such as reduced aggressiveness in spreading. 
– Creeping thyme (Thymus spp.) and many color hybrids
– Turkish veronica/Turkish speedwell (Veronica liwanensis)
– Blue woolly veronica (Veronica pectinata)-well-behaved; not to be confused with ivyleaf speedwell, which is invasive in the Pacific Northwest.

Woodland/wild strawberry (Fragaria vesca) is not as aggressive as beach strawberry, growing to about a foot tall. Photo © Adobe Stock

If you are interested in acquiring native ground covers, check out these and others on the Native Plant Society‘s website:

– Woodland/wild strawberry (Fragaria vesca) and beach strawberry (F. chiloensis)*
– Kinnikinnick aka bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi)*
– Foamflower (Tiarella trifoliata)*-can grow taller than 12″ in shade
– Western wild ginger (Asarum caudatum)*
– Oregon wood sorrel (Oxalis oregana)*
– Cascade rockcress* (Arabis furcata), Olympic Mountain rockcress* (Arabis olympica), and Nuttall’s rockcress* (Arabis nuttallii)

Fire Suppression 

Firewise gardening practices recommend creating a 5-foot perimeter around your home to help prevent fires. Ground covers can make this area beautiful while also deterring the possibility of fire. 

In Washington, plants with thick, juicy leaves called succulents are best for storing water. They soak up rain in the wet winter and save it for the dry summer. Plants in the sedum family rise to the top of the list because they actually store water during the heat of the summer, rather than becoming a dry and brittle fire hazard. This means that if a burning ember falls into this area, there is a greater chance it will burn out rather than flare up.
These are low-growing, drought-tolerant plants that actually store water:
– Rockcress (Arabis lyrata or A. pulchra)
– Stonecrop (Sedum spp.)
– Hens and chicks (Sempervivum spp.)
– Sea thrift (Armeria maritima)*
– Rosy pussytoes (Antennaria rosea)*

Other ideas can be found at Oregon State University’s Fire Resistant Plant Profiles.

To learn more about wildfire preparedness and how to take steps to protect your home, read our blog post on Wildfire Preparedness for the Home Landscape.

Ground Covers to Avoid: Too much of a good thing.
Because of their ability to spread, some groundcovers, when combined with perfect conditions, can be aggressive spreaders. Some, when they spread, are easy to remove; others, when they spread, you will be pulling them out for years (including cracks in the sidewalk), like vinca and violas. Before buying something that you’ve never heard of, check out its characteristics and performance.

Some of these groundcovers may perform beautifully in gardens at a different altitude with colder winters, but can take over in low-lying areas with good soils-such as the Skagit Valley. Always check your county noxious weed website before buying. Just because it is sold online doesn’t mean it is a good actor in our climate. 

Many older gardens in our area may have Italian arum and English ivy. Note that the aggressiveness of these plants has landed them a spot on the invasive species “Most Unwanted” list. They are difficult to eradicate and should never be planted or encouraged. Photos: Italian arum © WA Noxious Weed Board; English ivy © Randy Cyr, Greentree, Bugwood.org

Though readily available at nurseries in our area, these ground covers are best when planted in a container because they are very difficult to eradicate once they invade other areas: 

– Lily-of-the-valley (Convallaria majalis)
– Creeping jenny (Lysimachia nummularia)
– Periwinkle (Vinca minor and V. major)

Preparing for planting a groundcover

• Create a weed-free area. A living groundcover will not suppress grass and weeds that are already in the soil. This may require digging sod or weeds out before preparing the soil for planting. Groundcovers will suppress new weeds, including horsetail, by outcompeting them for resources such as light, moisture, and nutrients.
• Space the groundcover plants approx. 12″ apart and let them fill in. Water them for the first year and then water when they look dry. After a year or two, you will notice they begin to hold their own during the dry season, and you will need to take care of a weed or two that pops through.
• Fall is generally the best time to plant.

Interested in larger low-maintenance groundcovers? This article covers only low-growing drought-tolerant ground covers. There are many groundcover options which are greater than 12″ tall and/or need a bit of water through the driest times of summer. These will also help protect the soil and reduce garden maintenance. 

* Native Plants

**Note: These are low growing drought-tolerant perennials which will protect the top layer of soil from washing down slope. There are many more drought-tolerant perennials which grow taller than 1 foot and send a deep tap-root, anchoring multiple layers of soil.

References and Resources:
McDougle, S. Plants You Can Walk On. Fine Gardening Magazine. Issue #152

Carter, S. Firewise Plant Materials. Colorado State University Extension. (Rev. 8/2025)

Groundcovers. University of Maryland Extension. (Rev. April 2026)

McCary, D. Our Favorite Low-Maintenance Grouncover Plants for Seattle Gardens. Seattle Sustainable Landscapes, (May 5, 2026)

Ginny Bode

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Ginny Bode is a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Class of 2022 and is co-editor of the Ask a Master Gardener Blog. She enjoys the beauty of the garden in all seasons.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the Skagit County WSU Extension website.

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Post: August 7, 2026

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Managing Medium-sized Vertebrate Pests

Proper identification of these medium-sized, fuzzy pests is essential as management techniques differ for each species.

By Alison Hitchcock, WSU Extension Skagit County Master Gardener

Unlike the vertebrate pests covered in our previous article (rodents, moles, and shrews), the mammals addressed here are often valued for their aesthetic appeal. Yet in some circumstances, these animals damage gardens and are serious nuisances when inside homes.

RABBITS

The rabbit in your yard is probably the introduced eastern cottontail, roughly 17 inches in length, light brown with tail visibly white on the underside.

Rabbits eat grass, wildflowers, and garden crops. Most damage occurs in spring when rabbits feed on newly emerging seedlings. Larger and less tender plants are not as palatable. Rabbits snip stems with clean, 45-degree angled cuts close to the ground. Winter diets shift to buds, twigs, inner bark, and conifer needles.

Barriers are most effective for control. Install fences of 2- to 3-inch mesh 3 feet high and extend 6 inches underground to discourage burrowing. Wrap vulnerable trees and shrubs with hardware cloth, wire cylinders, or plastic tubes. Commercial repellent sprays may work for a limited time and be practical for small areas, but not entire yards.

TREE SQUIRRELS

Washington is home to four native and two introduced tree squirrels. The species most common to yards is the non-native Eastern Gray Squirrel.

Tree squirrels are opportunistic foragers, eating a variety of foods, though seeds and nuts are their mainstay. Squirrels dig up bulbs, eat ripened fruits, empty bird feeders, and bury nuts in landscaped areas. Tree squirrels will strip the bark off red cedar and other trees to line their nests.

Attics, basements, sheds, and other structures are attractive nesting locations and a place to gnaw on whatever is available to maintain the length and sharpness of their continually growing teeth. Reducing squirrel populations is difficult. You can remove nut trees from your yard, install squirrel-proof bird feeders, and encourage neighbors not to feed them.

RACCOONS

Raccoons are omnivorous. Plant foods encompass all kinds of fruits, nuts, acorns, corn, and grains. Animal foods include shellfish, eggs, small animals, and birds. Raccoons do not typically dig holes in lawns but may roll back sections of sod in search of insects and grubs. In addition to backyard offerings, raccoons scavenge from garbage cans and compost piles. Unsecured trash cans, pet food left outside, bird feeders, and fish ponds rank high as food sources.

Raccoons are generally nocturnal. They move to different dens or daytime rest areas every few days. Raccoons urinate and defecate in communal sites called latrines. These can be found at the base of trees or in tree forks, woodpiles, decks, attics, or roofs. Fecal matter is often contaminated with roundworm eggs and harmful bacteria.

It is more important to keep raccoons out of your home than out of your garden. Most raccoons seeking to nest in your attic or basement are pregnant females. Preventative maintenance to eliminate points of entry is the most effective means to keep raccoons outdoors.

Mark Your Calendar for These Free Know & Grow Workshops

Ways You Can Help Your Backyard Birds
Tuesday, August 18, 2026
1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Spectacular Fall Color – How You Can Have it in Your Garden
Tuesday, September 15, 2026
1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Prepare Your Garden for Fall and Winter
Tuesday, October 20, 2026
1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Creating an Award-Winning Display Garden for the NW Flower and Garden Festival
Tuesday, November 10, 2026
1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Sakuma Auditorium
16650 SR 536, Mount Vernon, WA 98273

CHIPMUNKS

Chipmunks are solitary omnivores feeding on nuts, seeds, fruit, worms, eggs, small arthropods, and amphibians. While they may damage fruits and bulbs, burrowing activities cause the most destruction by uprooting plants and tunneling under foundations.

Burrows are typically 20-30 feet in length with escape tunnels and side chambers for nesting and food storage. Burrows are hidden near woodpiles, stumps, and brush piles and have no obvious dirt mound to mark entry points. Chipmunks enter a semi-hibernation during the winter, waking periodically to dip into their food caches.

You are more likely to see chipmunks feeding below bird feeders rather than in them, so keep the area clean beneath feeders. Minimize debris and woodpiles near structures to reduce burrowing near foundations.

PORCUPINES

Porcupines are nocturnal rodents spending days at rest in trees or rocky areas. Porcupines are strict herbivores feeding on herbaceous material in the spring and woody plants in winter. They are particularly attracted to fruit trees, but the worst harm is the stripping and eating of inner bark off young trees. Basal girdling is common on conifer saplings as well as debarking on upper boles and larger branches.

Exclusion by fencing is the most effective method for preventing porcupine damage. Place wire mesh or a band of aluminum flashing around tree trunks to exclude access to tree crowns. Trapping is actually an effective control technique, as porcupines from surrounding areas will be slow to reinvade an area.

RIVER OTTERS, SKUNKS, WEASELS

As a group, skunks, river otters, and weasels do limited damage to gardens but become a nuisance when living under porches, outbuildings, or homes. All have scent glands that emit strong, repellent odors. Skunks are mild-tempered, nocturnal, and solitary omnivores. They may damage lawns by digging small pits in search of grubs and other insects. River otters are carnivorous, eating mostly aquatic organisms including shellfish, crabs, and amphibians. They can easily clear out small fish ponds and may nest under your house if you live close to a water source. Weasels are ferocious predators that typically live near water bodies but rarely enter homes. They prefer to eat small rodents but also take squirrels, chipmunks, shrews, moles, rabbits, snakes, and amphibians. Except for their penchant for raiding chicken coops, weasels are a great way to control other vertebrate pests in yards.

According to Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife regulations, property owners can legally trap/kill nuisance animals. Kill trapping of game species requires a special permit, which may only be obtained if non-lethal control methods prove ineffective. No permit is necessary for the use of live (cage) traps, but capture and relocation of wildlife off your property is prohibited; a captured animal must be killed or released elsewhere on the property. Euthanasia guidelines consider drowning, live burial, and freezing to be inhumane. Suitable methods for killing include injections of specific pharmaceuticals, carbon monoxide poisoning, or a gunshot to the head.

Trapping outdoors as a removal technique is generally ineffective; without habitat modifications, most nuisance wildlife will repopulate areas soon after control efforts have ceased. Consider controlling outdoor populations by removing attractants, animal proofing structures, and installing suitable fencing and screening.

References:

Pehling, D. Principles of Vertebrate Pest Management, Washington State University, accessed 10 July 2021..

Species & Habitats, Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife, 10 July 2021

Trapper Education in Washington State, Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife.

Maser, C. Mammals of the Pacific Northwest: From the Coast to the High Cascades. Corvalis: Oregon State University Press, 1998

Alison Hitchcock

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Alison Hitchcock has been a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener since 2001. Prior to retirement, Alison worked for the Department of Natural Resources as the Northwest Regional Silviculturist.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the Skagit County WSU Extension website.

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Post: July 17, 2026

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Small and Fuzzy but Pests Nonetheless

Proper identification of these small, fuzzy pests is essential as management techniques differ for each species.

By Alison Hitchcock, WSU Extension Skagit County Master Gardener

Vertebrate pests, while not as prevalent or pervasive as disease or invertebrate problems, can often make life miserable for gardeners. Pests damage gardens by feeding on plants, eating and disturbing roots, and burrowing under lawns. Problems can be managed indirectly by exclusion, sanitation, and habitat modification or actively through trapping or pesticides. Proper identification of the pest is essential as management techniques differ for each species. In August, the second article of this two-part series will address medium-sized pests.

Moles

Moles are solitary, territorial mammals, spending most of their lifetime underground. Populations average 2-3 adults per acre. Moles are well-adapted to a subterranean existence with large forefeet bent sideways for digging, reversible fur that permits backward movement, and small hips for turning. Eye and ear openings are protected by fur. Though often blamed for the destruction of garden plants and bulbs, moles are strict carnivores that feed on insects, grubs, and earthworms. However, it is the burrowing habits of moles that damage lawns and disrupt plant roots.
Moles construct large and complex tunnel systems with separate areas for living and hunting. Shallow, or feeding tunnels, appear as long, 1-3-inch-wide ridges of raised ground just below the soil surface. These tunnels feel spongy and soft when walked on and are often located along house foundations, sewer lines, or lawn borders. Deep runways are generally 3-12+ inches underground. These are regularly used passageways for travel between nest and feeding tunnels. Molehills occur where the animal is establishing new burrows or repairing existing ones.
Moles may work one section of their tunnel system for a few days and then move to a portion of the system in your neighbor’s yard. They are most active after periods of rain or watering, when the soil texture is ideal for digging.
Trapping is the most successful and practical method of control and is best done in early spring before they give birth. A variety of traps are available (body-gripping traps, however, are illegal in Washington). Set traps in active surface tunnels. If nothing is snared in two days, try a different run. Smacking a shovel on the ground above an actively burrowing mole will quickly kill it. Flooding can work if systems are not too extensive. Since moles feed on insects and worms, they do not readily take poisoned baits.
Unfortunately, extermination is impractical. New moles will eventually re-enter your garden if suitable conditions exist.

Tomato damage from rat. © Denny Organ

Rats

Two species of rats plague our area. Norway (brown/sewer) rats are large, stocky rodents with tails shorter than their bodies. Their burrows are found along building foundations, beneath woodpiles, and in moist areas around gardens and fields. Inside buildings, they usually remain at lower levels. Roof rats (black) are agile climbers, usually nesting and living above ground in trees and shrubs. In buildings, they are commonly found at higher levels in walls and attics. Roof rats have tails longer than their bodies and have sleeker shapes.
Rats will eat vegetables, seeds, and fruits but need animal protein and fat in their diet. Compost piles with only vegetable matter will not sustain a colony, though the addition of table scraps, including meats, grains, or oils, will attract rats to the pile.
Control includes rodent-proofing buildings, sanitation, trapping, or poisoning. All quarter-sized openings  (1/2″) should be sealed with rat-proof materials such as wire mesh or sheet metal. Sanitation measures include tight-fitting garbage lids and no outside pet food. Although there are many products for poisoning rats, trapping can be very effective and eliminate harm or death of non-targeted animals. When trapping, place multiple snares close to activity. Position traps against and perpendicular to walls to catch rats traveling in both directions. Bait-peanut butter is a reliable one-and set traps; use gloves as human scent may repel rats. Most importantly, let the rats take the bait several times from unset traps before setting the traps.

Mark Your Calendar for These Free Know & Grow Workshops

Ways You Can Help Your Backyard Birds
Tuesday, August 18, 2026
1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Spectacular Fall Color – How You Can Have it in Your Garden
Tuesday, September 15, 2026
1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Prepare Your Garden for Fall and Winter
Tuesday, October 20, 2026
1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Creating an Award-Winning Display Garden for the NW Flower and Garden Festival
Tuesday, November 10, 2026
1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Sakuma Auditorium
16650 SR 536, Mount Vernon, WA 98273

Mice

Two common mouse species are the house/field mouse and deer mouse. The former are often found in residences, but the latter prefer to stay outdoors or in outbuildings. Deer mice differ from house mice by being slightly larger, having a white underbelly, and a furry, rather than scaly, tail. House mice spread some diseases, but deer mice carry hantaviruses.
Mice eat cereal grains and seeds but may eat bulbs or corms and small fruits. Mice rarely burrow but can gain entrance to homes through dime-sized holes (1/4″). They will chew on just about anything that may be useful in nest building.
Mice are easily trapped. Place snap traps in areas where rodent activity (droppings, nests, chewed materials) is occurring.  If opting to use poison, use secured block baits; deer mice tend to cache food, leaving no bait for other rodents.

Voles

Unlike mice, voles have small ears, short legs and tails, and blunt noses. Voles are strict vegetarians, chewing on soft, green vegetation, grass, bulbs and succulent root systems. They often uproot plants and can girdle young trees and shrubs by removing bark at the base. They construct short, shallow burrows and surface runways through lawns and sometimes inhabit abandoned mole tunnels.
Voles rarely enter buildings. They frequent grassy ground cover and weedy areas, so anything that reduces vegetative cover such as mowing or tillage will help control them. To protect young trees from girdling, keep vegetation 4′ away from trunks and protect with ¼” hardware cloth. Voles can be captured with mousetraps set in tunnels and runways.  Stomping and filling of mole tunnels will help to eliminate their use as underground passages for voles.  

Shrews

Although commonly mistaken for voles or mice, shrews have pointed noses and five, rather than four, toes on front legs. Similar to moles, shrews live primarily on insects such as caterpillars and centipedes but also eat other garden pests: snails, slugs, and small mice. They do not create surface tunnels but often feed on runways or tunnels made by other mammals. Shrews are generally beneficial to gardens and should not be eliminated unless they become a nuisance.

While total extermination of these fuzzy pests is difficult, combining different approaches can help reduce garden damage. Practical management strategies for each pest, such as trapping, exclusion, and sanitation, stresses the need for first accurately identifying the vertebrate causing the damage.

References:

Maser, C. Mammals of the Pacific Northwest: From the Coast to the High Cascades. Corvalis: Oregon State University Press, 1998

Living with Wildlife: Moles,Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife, accessed 14 June 2021.

Pehling, D. Principles of Vertebrate Pest Management, Washington State University, accessed 14 June 2021.

Moles: Damage Management, Iowa State University Extension and Outreach, accessed 14 June 2021.

Rodents, Washington State Department of Health, accessed 14 June 2021

Alison Hitchcock

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Alison Hitchcock has been a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener since 2001. Prior to retirement, Alison worked for the Department of Natural Resources as the Northwest Regional Silviculturist.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the Skagit County WSU Extension website.

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Post: July 3, 2026

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Favorite Native Plants for the Small Garden

Native perennials and shrubs that are easy to grow, offer beautiful blooms, seeds, and/or fruit, and provide benefits to bees, butterflies, and birds.

What is a native plant? The Washington Native Plant Society defines natives as “species that have evolved naturally within our specific region, soils, and climate without human intervention, and are part of the indigenous flora that occurred here prior to European settlement.” Native plants co-exist with native birds, bees, spiders, and insects. These life forms are interconnected and beneficial to the environment. But through years of cultivating introduced plants, species from other continents that do well in our climate but offer little to native animals, we have disrupted and altered our ecosystem. Planting native plants can be a small contribution to bringing life back to our gardens.

Giant Red Indian Paintbrush (Castilleja miniata) and Golden Indian Paintbrush (Castilleja levisecta)

Found in the mountains and coastal bluffs of Western Washington, red paintbrush is a favorite of our native bees and two native hummingbirds: Anna’s (Calypte anna) and Rufous (Selasphorus rufus). A low water perennial with long-lasting flowers, paintbrushes are hemiparasitic and do best with a host plant. Pair red paintbrush with native yarrow or lupines for best results.

Hemiparasitic (he-mē-ˌper-ə-ˈsi-tik)

Britanica defines hemiparasitic plants as plants that “have green foliage and are photosynthetic but supplement their nutritional needs by siphoning the products of photosynthesis from their hosts.”

Golden paintbrush, considered a threatened species in Western Washington, grows best with host plants from the prairie, such as Roemer’s fescue and Oregon sunshine sunflower, but can also survive independently if well-watered. Golden paintbrush supports bees, hummingbirds, and the endangered Taylor’s checkerspot (Euphydryas editha taylori) butterfly.

Mark Your Calendar for These Free Know & Grow Workshops

Ways You Can Help Your Backyard Birds
Tuesday, August 18, 2026
1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Spectacular Fall Color – How You Can Have it in Your Garden
Tuesday, September 15, 2026
1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Prepare Your Garden for Fall and Winter
Tuesday, October 20, 2026
1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Creating an Award-Winning Display Garden for the NW Flower and Garden Festival
Tuesday, November 10, 2026
1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Sakuma Auditorium
16650 SR 536, Mount Vernon, WA 98273

Henderson’s Checkermallow (Sidalcea hendersonii) and Meadow Checkermallow (Sidalcea campestris)

A tall, stately plant with bright pink rosettes on long stalks somewhat resembling miniature hollyhocks, Henderson’s checkermallow grows along the Washington coast and easily re-seeds. (If you don’t want new starts, cut seed heads after blooming, or leave them for the birds and give away plant starts in spring.) This plant is considered endangered in Oregon, uncommon in Washington, and a species of concern in British Columbia. If you have a moderately moist corner of your garden in full sun to partial shade, Henderson’s checkermallow will provide nectar for bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. It is also a host plant for several butterfly species, including the common checkered skipper, gray hairstreak, and American painted lady. 

Meadow checkermallow, a native to Oregon’s Willamette Valley but also found in southern Washington, is a host plant for west coast lady, and several other butterfly larvae. Many bees, wasps, and flies also find this plant attractive. Its tall stems and delicate pale pink flowers will add a bit of charm to your perennial garden.

Showy Fleabane (Erigeron speciosus):

Lavender daisy-like blooms that continue all summer make this easy-to-grow perennial a must-have in the garden. A member of the aster family, showy fleabane likes sun and thrives with moderate moisture in well-drained soil. Found in the mountains from Oregon to British Columbia, this cold-hardy plant is a host plant for the lynx flower moth, and its blooms are popular with bees, butterflies, and hoverflies. 

Shooting Star (Primula pauciflora):

True to their namesake, these magenta-pink flowers, which appear like stars shooting out from leafless stems, delight the gardener and bees in early spring. Even though a short-lived bloomer, this spectacular little perennial is worth a place in the partially sunny, well-drained corner of your garden. Our native “buzz pollinators,” those bumblebees that vibrate to release the flower’s protein-rich pollen, will find a happy home in Shooting-star.

Broad-leaved Penstemon (Penstemon ovatus) and Cascade Penstemon (Penstemon serrulatus)

There are over 30 species of penstemon native to Washington state, but the two named here-broad-leaved and Cascade penstemon, both deciduous-are favorites in any garden.

Broad-leaved penstemon exhibits nearly blue flowers on tall stems. Native sweat bees, other bees, and hummingbirds will be attracted to the tubular flowers. Plant this penstemon in partial shade and well-drained soil.

Cascade penstemon grows well in moist, sunny conditions. It’s a prolific bloomer with violet tubular flowers. 

All penstemons (also known as beardtongues) attract a variety of wildlife: hover flies, ants, beetles, bees, moths, hummingbirds, and others. You can’t go wrong with a penstemon.

Mock Orange (Philadelphus lewisii):

Found on the west and east sides of the Cascades, in sun to partial shade, this many-stemmed deciduous shrub grows to 9 feet tall. With its clusters of sweetly fragrant white flowers, this plant caught the attention of Scottish botanist David Douglas, who introduced it into the UK in 1825 as a North American ornamental. Swallowtail and common wood nymph butterflies, as well as bees, will visit mock orange. The seeds are eaten by juncos, chickadees, and flickers.

Serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia):

This deciduous shrub with its white blooms in early spring provides pollen and nectar for many native bees and hummingbirds. In autumn, waxwings, woodpeckers, chickadees, and tanagers, as well as several mammals, will gobble up its purple berries. If you want some for yourself, you’ll have to be quick. The pale swallowtail, brown elfin, Lorquin’s admiral, and California hairstreak butterflies use this plant to deposit their larvae-a vital food source for young fledglings. Serviceberry, a NW native keystone plant known for its many benefits, symbolizes reciprocity. If you have room for several of these tall shrubs in your garden, they will provide a wealth of benefits to many of our wild and native creatures. 

Other native favorites that are easy to grow, readily available in our local nurseries, and provide many benefits to our native wildlife include:

• Evergreen Oregon grape (Mahonia aquifolium and M. nervosa) which attracts painted lady butterflies and provides food for bees and many birds.
• The deciduous red-flowering currant (Ribes sanguineum) with its pendulous clusters of red-to-pink flowers is loved by hummingbirds.
• The pink flowers of the evergreen huckleberry (Vaccinium ovatum) provide nectar for bees, butterflies and hummingbirds; its purple berries are loved by towhees, robins, waxwings, ban-tailed pigeons and many others.
• Kinnikinnick (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi) is an indispensable evergreen groundcover for the sunny dry spots that provides nectar for bees and hummingbirds, berries for ground-feeding birds and hosts brown and hoary elfin butterfly larvae.

Where to Find Native Plants

The annual WSU Extension Skagit County Master Gardener’s Plant Fair on the Saturday before Mother’s Day carries a wide selection of native plants.

Twice a year, the Salal Chapter of the Washington Native Plant Society sells native plants with easy online shopping. All of their plants are suitable for gardens west of the Cascades.

Plantas Nativa in Bellingham, a predominantly NW native specialty nursery, also has online shopping or in-person shopping on Tuesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays.

Local sources such as Christianson’s Nursery and Azusa Garden Centre are carrying more native plants every year due to customer demand.

There are so many beautiful and beneficial native plants in Washington state that it’s difficult to limit the selection, but knowing that all of them provide either nectar, pollen, berries, and/or habitat for birds, insects, and caterpillars, you can’t go wrong in choosing a few or many for your landscape.

Book References:

• Kruckeberg, A.R. and Chalker-Scott, L. (2019) Gardening with Native Plants of the Pacific Northwest (3^rd). Seattle: University of Washington Press.
• Stark, E. M. (2014) Real Gardens Grow Natives: Design, Plant & Enjoy a Healthy Northwest Garden. Skipstone.
• Wall Kimmerer, R. (2024) Serviceberry: Abundance and Reciprocity in the Natural World. Scribner.

Web References:

• The Washington Native Plant Society
• The Burke Herbarium at the UW Burke Museum

Joan D. Stamm

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Joan Stamm, is a certified Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener and the author of several books, including The Language of Flowers in the Time of COVID: Finding Solace in Zen, Nature and Ikebana.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the Skagit County WSU Extension website.

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Post: June 19, 2026

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“A Jewel of a teaching garden”

Discovery Garden Celebrates 30^th Anniversary ~ Cultivating Plants, People, and Community

The development of every garden is a journey. Gardeners start with a vision. What do they foresee in the short and long term? What plants do they love? What will grow at their site? What is possible? These hopes and dreams are then put into motion with a series of carefully planned steps to begin the trek. The path will take twists and turns. The garden will weather storms, successes, and failures. It’s all part of the journey.

Now 30 years old, the WSU Extension Skagit County Master Gardener Discovery Garden in Mount Vernon is a true microcosm of a garden’s evolution – all playing out in the public eye. What started as a wide-open, muddy 1.5-acre former pea field now teems with an amazing array of plants and trees.

The Discovery Garden serves as an illustration of a three-decade garden journey that resulted in the creation of a community hub of learning. It’s also a testament to the dedication and commitment of the master gardener volunteers, who have developed, maintained, and weathered the garden trek over the decades.

The vision for the Discovery Garden was articulated best in 1996 by master gardener and project leader Julie Hubner, who said it would become a “jewel of a teaching garden.” 

Master gardeners spent two years discussing not just how the garden would come to be, but how it could fulfill the master gardener priorities around environmental stewardship and sustainability. In addition, they looked at the benefits of gardening, including access to healthy food, creating beauty, teaching people of all ages, including children, and creating a culture of volunteerism and inspiration for home gardeners. It was a heavy lift and representative of the process of developing any garden, large or small.

Starting a garden, at home or for the public, involves many key steps, including planning, understanding the site, choosing the right plants, potentially adding structures, and maintenance. The Discovery Garden journey was somewhat unconventional compared to the ideal process, however, as it started with a set location and without a complete plan. Despite that, the garden has become a showcase of gardening and an illustration for home gardeners of what plants can sustain and succeed in northwest Washington’s many microclimates.

Planning a New Garden

Having a plan for a garden is an essential step before digging. Experts suggest carefully selecting the site and drawing a map of the area, based on the gardener’s goals for the space and the environment’s realities. The University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension provides helpful landscape planning documents on their website.

With a vision and volunteer-driven effort to develop the Discovery Garden, the path was a little different. Early drawings were created; however, the map was fairly general, and there was still much to organize and learn as ground was broken for the demonstration garden in September 1996. The agricultural field was just a blank but very muddy, canvas.

“It’s unimaginable what it has become. There was nothing here,” said Herta Kurp, who became a master gardener in 1995 and remains active in the garden today. “There were so many things we were not anticipating … no comprehensive plan to start.”

“An orphaned field

Abandoned toil,

Wide open sky

Dark dirt of Skagit soil…

Ever changing, all renewing

Growing and maturing

Then and now…

Discovery abounds.”

– Herta Kurp, June 2016, MG Class of 1995

Thirty Years of Discovery in the Garden

Providing a demonstration garden for the people of Skagit County was an early goal for local master gardeners. The first master gardener in Skagit County was Joe Dupre in 1977, for whom “Joe’s Place” is named in the Discovery Garden. The group grew to 44 members by the mid-1990s when talk officially turned to forming a display garden.

After two years of discussions, a 1996 cooperative agreement was reached with Washington State University, the Northwestern Washington Research and Extension Center (NWREC), WSU Extension Skagit County, and the Skagit County Master Gardener Foundation. The accord transferred management and care of 1.5 acres of fertile, unplanted land adjacent to NWREC, west of Mount Vernon, to the master gardeners.

On September 15, 1996, ground was broken for the WSU Extension Skagit County Master Gardener Discovery Garden, which opened to the public on August 15, 1997. The garden initially included 13 themed gardens ranging from herbs and shade to cool color and “Naturescape.” The outdoor classroom has since expanded to feature 33 “garden rooms,” along with greenhouses, a plant propagation house, welcome structures, a composting center, and more, all to inspire home gardeners.

Discovery Garden
30th Anniversary Open House
Saturday, June 27 ~ 10 am – 2 pm

Talk to the people who maintain the garden rooms in the Discovery Garden, as well as representatives of the NW Fruit, and the Salal Native Plant Garden.

Learn more about:

• Noxious weeds
• Plant Clinic and gardening help
• Fruit trees
• Maintaining ponds and water features
• Pollinators
• Native plants for our area

Read all the details about the 30th Anniversary Open House.

The Discovery Garden, located at 16602 State Route 536 (Memorial Highway), is open daily throughout the year from dawn until dusk.

Anita Davis, another new master gardener in 1995, recalls, “There was absolutely nothing planted. The area was just weeds.”

Still, the potential was there, and the volunteers put on their boots and got started.

The plan opened with 13 gardens, including many themes that continue today, such as Naturescape, herb, vegetable, and Japanese. Along with Davis, Diana Wisen, (class of ’91) coordinated the “Easy Care” garden, aptly named to showcase “low maintenance types of plants.”

The vegetable garden space gets a fresh plan each year, to rotate crops and try new ones. “I love having a clean slate every year, as the veggie garden is always changing,” said Ruth Sutton (class of ’01), who became the vegetable garden co-coordinator, along with Kathy Wolfe (class of ’02).

As with any garden, plans evolve with space, ideas, and people. Today, a comprehensive plan and map of the Discovery Garden outline the layout (add link to the current garden map) Now, 33 gardens are on display. Some original concepts like Easy Care have morphed into other themes. Other “rooms” were added including spaces dedicated to hardy fuchsias and “four-season interest.”

Selecting and Understanding the Site

Performing a full analysis of a garden site to understand the soil, weather, microclimates, moisture, and other factors is all helpful for the success and sustainability of a new green space.

While the site was selected in advance, the master gardeners remain highly appreciative of being the beneficiaries who manage the 1.5-acre Discovery Garden site. At first blush, it was known that the site was fertile for agriculture. However, it was also very wet and muddy, as the land is within the Federal Emergency Management Agency’s 100-year floodplain map for the Skagit River. Mud and all, work began in fall 1996.

“This was the biggest mud hole you have ever seen. You would sink to your knees if you walked in it,” said Glenice Hanna (class of ’95).

With a goal of opening by summer 1997, the hardy band of gardeners did not let conditions deter them from moving forward. Volunteers initially dug ditches to wick away water and build paths, experimenting with various materials to allow people to access the site and lay the framework for future planting.

Flooding continues to be an issue at the site, as heavy rain can quickly lead to standing water, which is not conducive to many plants. Conditions improved dramatically in 2012 when a substantial drainage project was completed to add, replace, or repair storm drains and drainage lines in the garden, moving water away from the garden to an existing ditch on the north side of the property, next to Memorial Highway.

For the dry season, watering techniques have also improved over the years. Most of the gardens are now also served by a drip irrigation system on timers to handle summer watering, while serving as good stewards of the resource.

Choosing the Right Plants

Plant selection is another key element emphasized by experts in garden design and development, with attention to size, form, texture, color, and seasonal interest. At a high level, it’s important to know what plants thrive in the garden’s official zone on the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s (USDA) Plant Hardiness Zone map. Home gardeners can identify their zone by typing in a Zip Code in the map tool to learn more.

For a closer look, experts recommend zooming in to understand the garden’s microclimates and assess the impact of shade, sun, wind, moisture, soil, topographic features (e.g., elevation), structures, and hardscape. The Discovery Garden’s proximity to the Skagit River has a definite impact on the area causing a high water table. The garden is Zone 8b on the USDA map.

In choosing plants in the early days, the Discovery Garden’s budget was limited, so the master gardeners turned to the community for help. Through the generosity of individuals, businesses, nurseries, service clubs, and civic organizations, the master gardeners gladly accepted donations of more than 150 trees and shrubs, plus another 300 perennials, to get the garden started. The volunteer group formed the Skagit County Master Gardener Foundation, a non-profit organization, to raise funds to support the garden, and the ongoing mission of promoting science-based gardening practices and education. 

Given the conditions and somewhat random collection of plants that were initially available, it should not come as a surprise that not all plants started off in the right place. Trees outgrew their locations. Some plants did not survive the high moisture level. Others crowded each other out.

“We planted things that quickly got too big and had to be taken out,” Wisen said. “You don’t have total control. It’s a constant learning for master gardeners as well.”

The fertile soil also led plants to outperform what the original nursery tags predicted for their future size.

“We learned that compared to plant tags from the nursery, we should double what you can expect the plant to grow here. Many trees were thinned. Others got too big and had to be removed,” said Judy Callahan (class of ’95) and coordinator of the herb garden today. “Even master gardeners learn lessons. We learn things every day.”

As trees have been removed, a number of stumps or snags remain to enhance the environment for birds, beneficial insects, and other creatures.

“When you start out, it’s going to look good,” said Jerry Sells (class of ’03). As the garden was starting to fill in, he noted “It’s not going to always look good. It’s the nature of the beast.”

Since the early years, the master gardener mantra of “right plant, right place” has taken center stage in the Discovery Garden as the volunteers have learned, grown, and dedicated thousands of hours to the project. Shade-loving bleeding hearts, ferns, and hellebores tuck under the refuge of trees on the south side of Naturescape while a wide range of crops flourish in the full sun of the vegetable garden, and bees are drawn to the combination of colorful bloomers in the pollinator garden. Through trial and error, the garden has matured to show beauty during every season of the year.

“When you visit the garden today, it’s impressive,” Sells said.

Many gardens benefit from the inclusion of structures, both functional and artistic.

For families, it may be a place to gather in the garden or a children’s play area that encourages engagement with the garden. Small items provide water sources for birds and other creatures, and art pieces enhance the look and visual interest. A bench, pergola, or fountain adds to the ambiance. Making space for composting within the garden helps handle green waste and provides a nutritional supplement for later use in the garden.

Construction of several structures at the Discovery Garden was also aided by community support, which helped fund and provide supplies and labor for structures including a tool and storage shed and the garden’s hub – the Pavilion.

Herta Kurp employed her skills as an architect to design and help build most of the structures in the garden today, including the Pavilion, entrance arches, fences, gazebo, benches, and shade structure. With each project, Kurp said it was her goal “to take any opportunity to make things more beautiful” by complementing the plants, trees, and blooms.

In a 2016 “Seeds for Thought” newsletter article, Julie Powell (class of ’90) noted that the Discovery Garden serves a need beyond horticultural education. “Benches tucked throughout the corners of the garden help enhance the experience,” she said.

“You’re creating a space for someone who really needs somewhere to sit and think and for families to come out here in the late afternoon,” Powell said.

Support buildings were added at the Discovery Garden, including a greenhouse in 2002, which expanded the master gardeners’ ability to start seeds, and the Plant Propagation House in 2011, which replaced a simple hoop-house concept.

Click on the info button “I” above to read captions.

Maintaining the Evolving Garden

As the years go by, the journey for all gardens continues, as does the effort to follow or adjust the vision. Over time, as the garden shifts from newly planted to a more mature environment, it will take on a new look and will adapt to changing conditions. The challenges a gardener faces are varied, ranging from seasonal pests and diseases to the overarching impacts of climate change.

According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) Climate Hubs, the Pacific Northwest is not alone in experiencing significant climate shifts, characterized by average temperature increases of 2 to 3 degrees Fahrenheit since 1900. The USDA also notes that “the region faces an ongoing decline in mountain snowpack, more intense winter storms, rising sea levels along coastlines, and an increase in summer heat waves and severe wildfires.” These environmental factors require gardeners to learn and adjust practices and plant selections to ensure sustainability.

“Some things are not as successful now,” Wisen said of the changing environment. “Others are coming in and surviving that didn’t use to.”

Composting has been a cornerstone of the garden since the beginning. The amount of green waste generated by the 1.5 acres of gardens has sometimes outpaced the available space. A remodel of the area was completed in 2007 to organize and maximize the volume that can be chopped, spend time in the decomposition process, and make it available in the garden to enrich the soil.

“We did not realize how much garden waste would be generated on a regular basis from a garden this size. It is one of the big challenges we are currently facing,” Wisen said.

Mark Your Calendar for These Free Home Gardening Know & Grow Workshops

Ways You Can Help Your Backyard Birds
Tuesday, August 18, 2026
1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Spectacular Fall Color – How You Can Have it in Your Garden
Tuesday, September 15, 2026
1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Prepare Your Garden for Fall and Winter
Tuesday, October 20, 2026
1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Creating an Award-Winning Display Garden for the NW Flower and Garden Festival
Tuesday, November 10, 2026
1:00 pm – 2:30 pm
Sakuma Auditorium
16650 SR 536, Mount Vernon, WA 98273

“We need to have a compost program here. Compost just belongs in a garden,” Kurp said. “Especially in a demonstration garden where we can show how to recycle plants and soils.”

The Discovery Garden will always be a work in progress, as noted in 1997 by then master gardener Marty Jerome, who was quoted in the November 2016 “Seeds for Thought” Washington State Master Gardener Foundation newsletter. “A garden like this will be in progress forever. You put in something and, if it doesn’t work, you pull it out, and you put in something else.”

The Discovery Garden is a place to learn. Over the years, many successes and some failures have been on full display to the public, all dedicated to helping educate home gardeners.

“With plants, you just never know. There’s an uncertainty about it. It’s also teaching you,” said Kurp. “You have to be flexible. If there is a failure, you can do something else. You can work around it. You can beautify it. You can learn and try again.”

True to the can-do attitude of early master gardeners and a generous community in Skagit County, the Discovery Garden continues to flourish. Each year, the garden is visited by thousands of people from across the country and beyond. The Discovery Garden journey continues in its mission to educate and inspire.

References and Resources

Cornell Cooperative Extension College of Agriculture and Life Sciences. (2026) Planning Your Design.

Federal Emergency Management Agency. (2026) FEMA Q3 100 Year Floodplain Map –  November 2017.

Master Gardener Foundation of Washington State. (2016). Skagit County Master Gardeners’ Discovery Garden is now 20 Years Old. Seeds for Thought, a newsletter of the Master Gardener Foundation of Washington State, Volume 16, Issue 4.

PennState Extension. (2024) Gardening and Climate Change.

University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension Service. (2026) Landscape Design.

Washington State Climate Office. (2023) Climate Matters, Ecology, Temperature: Plant Hardiness Zones for Washington State 

Kari Ranten

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Kari Ranten is a retired journalist and health care communicator who became a certified Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener in 2024.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the Skagit County WSU Extension website.

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Post: June 5, 2026

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Water Features in the Home Garden

Looking to add interest to your garden, attract birds and wildlife, or drown out city noise with soothing sounds of water? Elevate your garden to the next level with a water feature. 

Kay Torrance

A water feature supplied with fresh water soon becomes its own ecosystem — especially in the hot, dry summers in the PNW. They encourage birds, frogs, dragonflies, and other wildlife into your yard. Many animals, especially raccoons, will visit for water. I have seen Cooper’s hawks make daily visits to my garden in search of prey. Hummingbirds take showers. In the spring, I sleep to a chorus of Pacific tree frogs. Water is essential to life.

There are many options for adding water features to your landscape. It is just a matter of finding a good fit and managing expectations. Options range from small to very large:

Bird Baths and Fountains 

A bird bath or fountain can add ambiance and focus to a garden. A fountain provides soothing water sounds for relaxation. Alternatively, you can have a “pondless waterfall” where a reservoir contains water out of sight. With the flip of a switch, you have a raging waterfall. Bird baths and fountains are commercially available in endless shapes and sizes, and making one can be a fun DIY project. A bird bath can be as simple as a shallow bowl filled with pebbles and water you refill daily. Vary the water depth with stones to attract a greater variety of birds. Use an automatic sprinkler system to fill it. Keep the reservoir clean, as birds need fresh water for drinking and bathing.

 
Homemade bird bath using trash can lid for the mold. Photo © Kay Torrance

Aquatic Container Gardening 

Take a large flower pot, a barrel, a livestock tank, a bathtub, or another container, and turn it into a water garden. Simply patch the holes and fill the vessel with water. Add potted water lilies or a mix of aquatic plants. It will attract birds, frogs, and dragonflies. Like a bird bath, containers need the water changed frequently to minimize algae and mosquitoes. If the container is large and heavy, make sure it has a drain plug to simplify water changes. A small filter fountain combo helps keep the water clear.

Ceramic container with water lily and papyrus. Photo © Kay Torrance

Tour the garden and check out our demonstration pond. Master gardeners will be on hand to talk about different water features and pond best practices.

Join Us for These Upcoming Master Gardener Events:

Discovery Garden
30th Anniversary Open House
Saturday, June 27 ~ 10 am – 2 pm

Talk to the people who maintain the gardens and learn more about:

• Noxious weeds
• Plant Clinic and gardening help
• Fruit trees
• Maintaining ponds and water features
• Pollinators
• Native plants for our area

Read all the details about the 30th Anniversary Open House.

__ __ __

Fire Smart Landscaping

June Know & Grow

Free. No registration required.

Presenter: Marlene Finley, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Updated tips for keeping your home and yard more fire safe.

Tuesday, June 16, 2026 ~ 1 p.m.

Sakuma Auditorium
16650 SR 536, Mount Vernon, WA 98273

Rain Gardens

Develop a seasonally wet area of your yard with plants that thrive with wet feet. Master Gardener Carla Glassman provides the details in our blog article “Dealing with Wet Spots,” which talks about turning these areas into an oasis. The blog article contains an extensive plant list. You can also create a rain garden by capturing runoff from home’s gutters.

Ponds

Ponds can be any size, ranging from fifty to hundreds of gallons, and can feature waterfalls, fountains, or bubblers. The possibilities are endless. They can be built from prefabricated shapes or DIY custom designs dug from the ground and lined with fabric. They can be built into decks or patios and are usually stocked with plants and fish. Some gardeners prefer the simplicity of a “fishless” pond.

Creating a pond is fun but challenging. Artificial ponds can become complex, as they require plumbing and electricity for filtration, aeration, and algae control. You are creating a self-contained ecosystem, so you need to understand the chemistry you are creating. You will need to control the pH, oxygen levels, and temperature, and encourage photosynthesis. Proper planning is key, and failure can be frustrating. It requires working with nature and then continuing to tweak what you have learned. The benefits are incredibly rewarding for those who persevere. Ponds are never maintenance-free.

Maintenance Requirements – Don’t Fight Mother Nature! 

A bird bath is very simple to maintain. All you need to do is keep fresh water available daily. Fountains add a splash. Make sure to empty them at least weekly and scrub the surface with a brush to remove debris, bird droppings, and algae. This will reduce the risk of birds spreading disease and keep mosquitoes at bay.

Once you move beyond a bird bath, the maintenance requirements increase. Water features are not low-maintenance unless they are well thought out and properly designed. People who build them often give up during the first season, when the pond turns into a sea of green algae. For a pond to succeed, it is a careful balance of filtration, aeration, light, and temperature.

Filtration

Good filtration is the single most important element of pond maintenance! A good system will reduce maintenance, while an inadequate system will require cleaning messy filters several times a week. Water needs to be moving to allow biological processes to happen efficiently. Even the smallest pond needs a pump for circulation, aeration, and filtering out large debris. There are two methods of filtration, mechanical and biological. Though often discussed as alternatives, a pond needs both. 

Mechanical filters use a pump to force water through filter material, trapping solid particles. The filter medium needs to be periodically cleaned by the gardener. This process is essential to removing leaves and other debris that fall into the pond. These filters also keep the water moving and aerated, improving plant/fish health and water clarity. However, a mechanical filter will never remove all the debris from a pond, leaving some to settle to the bottom. The organic material trapped in the filter is also breaking down and, in a sense, polluting the water. This is where biological filtration comes in to transform the products of organic decomposition.

For biological filtration, you need a healthy supply of bacteria, which nature happily provides. These bacteria live on submerged pond surfaces, rocks, and even inside mechanical filters. The filter media in mechanical filters usually host a healthy community of natural bacteria, which is why you should never clean them with detergents. Just clean them with a water hose. Biological filtration needs help from a mechanical filter or pond vacuuming, as large debris (leaves) can take a long time to break down and ruin pond clarity. A bottom drain in larger ponds is essential for cleaning sediment out every few years. 

Nitrogen Cycle

Nature’s solution for removing nitrites and nitrates produced during organic decomposition is the nitrogen cycle. Bacteria feed on decomposing waste and convert it into fertilizer that pond plants can use. This is why plants are essential to a pond’s health. (See the insert on the nitrogen cycle below.) Nature was the first “chemist,” and this process depends on two types of bacteria working together. The aquatic cycle is similar to what happens in our soil, but there are some key differences. 

Aeration

A pond needs aeration, which can be supplied by a fountain, a rushing waterfall, or a dedicated pond bubbler/aerator. A waterfall or fountain filter will remove the need for a separate aerator. Submerged and surface plants also produce oxygen. Oxygen is needed by plants, fish, and the nitrogen cycle. Submerged and surface plants produce oxygen during the day, but at night they use it.  

Light, Temperature, and Algae Control

Plants need sunlight for photosynthesis. Too much light encourages algae, which is unappealing in ponds and can cause periodic pH swings that harm fish. Algae are simple plants lacking roots, stems, and leaves. A small amount of algae in ponds is normal. Algae blooms occur if there are too many nutrients in the pond. Fish can help with algae, but their waste can also encourage its growth, especially if the fish are overfed, which is common with most fish hobbyists. Surface plants steal sunlight from algae and keep the pond cooler, slowing its growth. Warm water holds less oxygen than cold water, and warm temperatures encourage algae growth, so partial sun is a good compromise for most water features. The single best method to control algae is to install a UV light to the pond’s filtration system.

Plants for the Pond

Surface and subsurface plants compete with algae for nutrients, making them great additions to a healthy pond. Aquatic plants can grow from the ground in an unlined pond, from submerged pots in a lined pond, or float on top of the water without the need for soil. (There are so many types that a separate article is needed to discuss them.) Hardy water lilies are a good choice, as their flowers and foliage enhance the pond’s beauty and shade the water while absorbing nutrients. Siberian iris (Iris sibirica) pairs nicely with lilies and grows well in partially submerged pots. Thalia (Thalia dealbata) has a tropical look but is very hardy. Many aquatic plants are tropical, like tropical water lilies, papyrus, taro, and water hyacinth. They should be treated as annuals in the pond unless you plan to remove and store them during the winter. 

Avoid reeds and rushes as they grow quickly and can take over. Make sure the plants you are considering aren’t on the state’s invasive species list. A pond may seem contained, but birds can carry seeds for miles. Duckweed is easy to establish and good at using surplus nutrients and shading water, but it can quickly get out of control and create a layer 2-3″ thick.

Keeping Fish

Koi are the classic pond fish and are prized for their color. They can live for decades and become several feet long. If you are just getting started, Shubunkins are a colorful, hardy goldfish variety that is great for a first fish. They are readily available at pet stores and do well in small ponds. Start with one to three small fish in the first year. As with plants, make sure that a fish is not on an invasive species list and is suitable for pond life. Fish require extremely clean water. They need a balanced pH. Ammonia, phosphates, nitrites, and nitrates can kill them. Before adding fish, make sure the pond has been established for at least a few months to ensure a healthy nitrogen cycle. You will need a water test kit to periodically check the water. Don’t overstock the pond with fish, and don’t overfeed them. Both will be disastrous. The fish will need to be protected from herons, raccoons, river otters, and other predators. It is best to get your pond up and running one year and add fish the second year.

Tips for Successful Water Features

Planning

• Develop a checklist for maintenance and make notes. The list will change seasonally.
• Schedule weekly routine maintenance and keep a log.

Location

• Ensure easy access to water and electricity for filtration and pumps.
• Select a spot with good sunlight if you want plants that flower, such as lilies.
• Be aware of adjacent trees that will drop leaves and branches into the pond, increasing maintenance.
• Recognize that runoff from erosion, chemicals/fertilizers, and animal waste runoff will adversely affect water quality for in-ground ponds. Adequate vegetation around the pond can help to filter the runoff before it enters the pond.

Filtration

• Ensure the system is sized appropriately for the water volume, plant, and fish load. It never hurts to oversize a system. If the filter needs cleaning more than once a week, it’s undersized.
• Choose filters that are easy to clean. Some have backwash systems like swimming pools. Some have scrapers to clean the filters without removing them. Some filters for small ponds are 3-in-1 units that combine a pump, filter, UV light, and fountain in one unit.
• Use a UV light to control algae You can get a fine-mesh filter to trap algae, but it requires frequent cleaning.
• Don’t overclean the filter. It is actually most efficient right before it clogs. That is an extreme to avoid but figure out exactly the timing between cleanings.
• Never clean the filter media with detergents, as they will kill the beneficial bacteria.

Draining

• Incorporate a bottom drain in all but the smallest ponds.
• Complete draining should only be needed every 2-5 years.

Mosquito Control

• Mosquitoes lay eggs only in still water, so if you have any circulation, they won’t be a problem.
• Fish eat mosquito larvae, so again, no problem if you have fish.
• For small water features without circulation that aren’t dumped and refilled every few days, you can use biological mosquito control, which are pellets containing bacteria that disrupt the larvae’s life cycle.

Algae Control

• Install UV lights plumbed into the filter system — hands down the best way to control algae.
• Remember to change the UV light bulb annually. (They may look like they are still working, but what you are seeing is visible light, not UV.)
• Consider other options that include barley straw, chemical herbicides, or dyes that reduce sunlight.

The Nitrogen Cycle

The nitrogen cycle is nature’s process for decomposition. The nitrogen cycle works in water similar to how it works in the ground. Use organic decomposition and fish waste as fertilizer for the pond’s aquatic plants while simultaneously keeping the water clean.

Aquatic Ecosystem
A Healthy Nitrogen Cycle Produces Clean Water

Nitrogen is the nutrient plants need most for growth. Understanding how the nitrogen cycle affects nitrogen availability helps gardeners grow healthy, productive plants while keeping nutrients where they can be used.

Terrestrial Ecosystem

Four sources of nitrogen are found in soil. Ammonium and nitrate can be used immediately by plants. Atmospheric nitrogen and nitrogen in organic material must be converted before it is useful to plants. Excessive nitrogen levels lead to runoff that can harm plants and pollute waterways. Nitrogen can also leach into groundwater. 

References and Resources

Aquatic:

Enjoying Ornamental Ponds – Louisiana State University Agricultural Center

Neighborhood and Urban Pond Management (NREM-9210) – Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service

Aquatic Plant Selection – Clemson Extension

Ornamental Garden Pools – Alabama Cooperative Extension System

Terrestrial:

The Nitrogen Cycle. University of California, Berkley, California

Cogger, C. (Rev 2020) Soil Health. Washington State University Extension, Pullman, WA

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Kay Torrance has been a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener since 2019. She has maintained water gardens of various sizes in different climates for over 30 years. She is the Garden Coordinator of Naturescape in the WSU Extension Skagit County Master Gardeners Demonstration Garden. She has a B.S. in Chemistry and enjoys combining science and gardening.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the Skagit County WSU Extension website.

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Post: May 15, 2026

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The Science Behind Plant Partnerships

It’s not magic; it is ecology in action

Rae Barto

By Rae Barto, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Companion planting, the practice of growing different plant species together for mutual benefit, has long been part of gardening traditions across cultures. Historically, it has been framed through folklore, anecdote, and trial and error. But in the last two decades, scientific research has begun to validate, refine, and sometimes debunk these claims.

Modern researchers increasingly view gardens and farms as ecosystems rather than isolated plant beds. Companion planting is best understood as a form of polyculture, where multiple species create a more biodiverse and resilient environment. This biodiversity enhances nutrient cycling, reduces pest pressure, improves water retention, and carbon sequestration.

At its core, companion planting operates through several scientifically documented mechanisms.

Resource partitioning involves physical competition between plants. Plants with different growth habits, root depths, or nutrient requirements can coexist more efficiently than those competing for identical resources. Studies using isotope tracing have demonstrated that companion plantings access different soil layers and nutrient pools, thereby reducing competition.

Allelopathy — the chemical interaction between plants — represents one of the most studied aspects. Plants release various compounds through their roots, leaves, and decomposing matter that can either inhibit or promote the growth of nearby species. Research is identifying specific chemicals responsible for these interactions, providing a biochemical explanation for traditional planting combinations.

The attraction and repulsion of insects through companion planting is getting a lot of attention, and agricultural research proves plants produce volatile organic compounds (VOCs) that can either deter harmful insects or attract beneficial predators and pollinators. Aromatic plants can confuse or mask host plant odors, reducing pest pressure. They are typically short-range, not garden-wide.

Nitrogen Fixation: The Three Sisters and Beyond

Perhaps the most scientifically validated companion planting system is the “Three Sisters” combination of corn, beans, and squash, practiced by Indigenous peoples of the Americas for centuries. Research has confirmed that leguminous beans form symbiotic relationships with rhizobia bacteria, converting atmospheric nitrogen into plant-available forms that benefit neighboring crops.

While these benefits come primarily after the legume decomposes, planting beans next to corn (a heavy nitrogen feeder) allows the corn roots to obtain a trickle of nitrogen from the beans during the growing season. The beans utilize the corn stalks as natural trellises, while the broad squash leaves create living mulch that suppresses weeds and retains soil moisture, effects quantified through controlled field experiments.

Pruning Shrubs for the Home Gardener

May Know & Grow

Free. No registration required.

Presentor: Anne Kurt, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener and Certified Master Pruner

Tuesday, May 19, 2026 ~ 1 p.m.

Sakuma Auditorium
16650 SR 536, Mount Vernon, WA 98273

Come learn some simple seasonal pruning tips to encourage the health and appearance of your garden shrubs. Learn to identify growth habit and determine the right time to prune and how. You will gain confidence and your garden will thrive.

Photo © Skagit County Master Gardener Foundation

Modern research has expanded our understanding of nitrogen-fixing partnerships beyond traditional combinations. Studies have documented beneficial relationships between leguminous cover crops and subsequent plantings with measured increases in soil organic matter and nitrogen availability lasting multiple growing seasons.

Pest Management through Plant Chemistry

Scientific investigation of companion planting for pest control has revealed sophisticated chemical defense networks. Brassicas (cabbage family plants) produce glucosinolates — sulfur-containing compounds that break down into pest-deterrent chemicals. Research has shown that these compounds can reduce populations of aphids, flea beetles, and other common garden pests when brassicas are interplanted with susceptible crops.

Beneficial Insect Attraction and Habitat Creation

Companion planting’s role in supporting beneficial insects has been thoroughly documented through field studies and insect population surveys. Flowering companions provide nectar and pollen sources that sustain parasitic wasps, predatory beetles, and other natural pest controllers through the growing season.

Research has shown that gardens with diverse flowering plants maintain higher populations of beneficial insects, leading to measurable reductions in pest damage. Studies tracking parasitoid wasp populations have demonstrated direct correlations between the presence of nectar-producing plants and improved biological pest control.

Habitat diversification through companion planting creates microclimates that support beneficial species. Research has documented how varied plant heights, leaf textures, and bloom times provide overwintering sites, hunting grounds, and nesting opportunities for natural pest predators.

Aromatic herbs like basil, rosemary, and thyme have been studied extensively for their pest-repelling properties. Laboratory and field studies have identified specific essential oils and their concentrations that effectively deter insects. For example, research has demonstrated that basil planted near tomatoes can reduce populations of hornworms and whiteflies by releasing volatile compounds such as eugenol and linalool.

Save the Date:

Discovery Garden Open House

Celebrating 30 years of education, inspiration and dedication to the community

Saturday, June 27 ~ 10 am – 2 pm
Free Admission and Parking
Discovery Garden
16602 State Route 536, Memorial Highway, Mount Vernon

Soil Health and Nutrient Cycling

One of the most significant advances in understanding companion planting comes from soil microbial ecology. Plants shape the microbial communities around the roots, and when species are grown together, these communities interact in complex ways.

Scientific studies of companion planting’s effects on soil health reveal complex underground interactions.

Mycorrhizal networks
The symbiotic relationship between plant roots and beneficial fungi, called a mycorrhizal network, can be enhanced through strategic plant combinations. Research using molecular techniques has shown how certain companion plants can expand these fungal networks, improving nutrient uptake and plant resilience.
Root exudate interactions
The carbon-rich compounds released by roots have been studied extensively, revealing how different plants can modify soil chemistry to benefit neighbors. For example, research has shown that certain plants release organic acids that help solubilize phosphorus, making this essential nutrient more available to companion plants with different root chemistries.
Carbon sequestration
The process by which plants capture and store atmospheric carbon dioxide (CO2) is called carbon sequestration. Studies have shown that soil organic matter improves with diverse plantings. Research demonstrates that polyculture systems often store more carbon in soil than monocultures, thereby contributing to long-term improvements in soil fertility and structure.

Limitations and Considerations

Scientific research also reveals important limitations of companion planting.

Allelopathic inhibition
A biological phenomenon where plants release chemical compounds (allelochemicals) into the environment that suppress the germination, growth, or reproduction of neighboring plants or microorganisms can occur when incompatible plants are grown together. Studies have documented how certain combinations can reduce yields rather than improve them.

Carrot and chive studies have shown that chives can repel carrot rust flies through the release of sulfur compounds; while differing root depths allow effective resource use. Photo © Adobe Stock

Competition
The effects of competition must be considered, as research shows that plants grown too closely can compete for water, nutrients, and light regardless of species compatibility. Scientific studies emphasize the importance of proper spacing and timing in companion planting systems.
Environmental variability
Research demonstrates that soil type, climate, and local pest populations can influence the effectiveness of plant combinations. This underscores the importance of adapting companion planting strategies to local conditions.
Evidence-Based Companion Combinations
Tomatoes and basil have been studied extensively, and research has confirmed that basil can deter certain pests.

Carrot and chive studies have shown that chives can repel carrot rust flies through the release of sulfur compounds; while differing root depths allow effective resource use.

Lettuce and tall plants demonstrate the shade tolerance principle, with research showing that partial shade can extend lettuce growing seasons and reduce bolting in hot weather.

Practical guidance:

• Focus on increasing diversity, not specific “magic” pairings. Polycultures reduce pest outbreaks and improve soil health.
• Include flowering plants to attract and support beneficial insects.
• Use legumes for nitrogen fixation and to build soil health; interplant beans, peas, or clover with nitrogen-demanding crops.
• Combine plants with complementary root systems; mix deep-rooted, shallow-rooted, and tap-rooted species.
• Use the plant’s physical structures — tall plants can support climbers or provide shade.
• Incorporate cover crops — oats, buckwheat, winter rye, and cowpeas improve soil structure and fertility.
• Focus on soil microbiology — choose combinations that enhance microbial diversity and nutrient cycling.
• Observe and adapt, local conditions matter.
• Combine with other practices, such as crop rotation and soil management.

The science of companion planting validates many traditional practices while providing a deeper understanding of the mechanisms involved. Through scientific research on plant chemistry, soil interaction, and ecological relationships, we now have evidence-based explanations for why certain plant combinations work effectively together.

By understanding the science behind companion planting, gardeners can harness these natural relationships to create thriving, resilient gardens that work with, rather than against, ecological principles. As research continues to reveal new insights into plant interactions, companion planting enables gardeners to combine traditional knowledge with modern science to create a more sustainable, productive garden.

Companion planting is a scientifically supported practice rooted in ecology, soil biology, and plant physiology. While not all traditional pairings hold up under scrutiny, many do, and modern research continues to uncover the mechanisms behind successful plant partnerships.

Companion planting works best as part of a holistic system rather than a standalone solution. Companion planting is not magic; it is ecology in action.

References and Resources

Chalker-Scott, L. (2023). Gardening with Companion Plants (Home Garden Series). Washington State University Extension.

Walliser, J. (2020). Plant Partners: Science-based Companion Planting Strategies for the Vegetable Garden. Storey Publishing, LLC.

James, D. (2014). Beneficial Insects, Spiders, and Other Mini-Creatures in Your Garden. Washington State University Extension., Pub. #EM0673.

University of California (2018). Insectary Plants, Integrated Pest Management, Agriculture and Natural Resources.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Rae Barto is a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener, Class of 2023. Her love of plants includes anything green and growing, especially anything that can be used in cooking. She has been experimenting with companion planting for several years in her own garden. She is the coordinator of the medicinal section of the Herb Garden and is a frequent volunteer in the Plant Clinic in Burlington. 

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the Skagit County WSU Extension website.

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Post: May 1, 2026

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Ready to Go Shopping?

Know your yard’s microclimates before you head to the plant sale

 
Kari Ranten

Perhaps nothing thrills a home gardener more than the abundance of plants available for sale in spring. A walk through a nursery lures the gardener to marvel at beautiful perennial blooms; to desire the look, texture, and color of a tree or shrub; or to seek out the amazing native plants that call the Pacific Northwest home.

With so many beautiful choices, it’s easy to quickly fill a wagon with one (or three) of everything that looks beautiful in the moment. Before making those impulse buys, take some time to think about what will thrive in your landscape. A little homework will improve the success rate for your new plants. Research your local microclimates and keep the unique details of your yard in mind to make careful selections of the right plants for the right places – a standard master gardener mantra.

Home gardeners in northwest Washington share the Zone 8b assignment on the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s (USDA) Plant Hardiness Zone map. Type in your zip code in the map tool to learn more. This resource provides an excellent overview of plants’ overall frost tolerance and offers a broad overview of the area’s climate.

Gardeners should pair this up with localized information and knowledge of their own property.

Sunset’s Western Garden Book defines a microclimate as “a small area (such as a backyard or even a portion of it) with a slightly different climate than that of its larger surroundings. . . Plants that might not survive in a specific climate zone may grow well in the right microclimate.”

Individual yards likely have one or more unique microclimates that the home gardener should learn about and understand. Microclimates include areas of shade, sun, wind, moisture, soil, and topographic features such as elevation. In northwest Washington, proximity to rivers, lakes, and the Puget Sound also plays a role. In addition, structures, pavement, and fences can create varying conditions.

Armed with this information, gardeners can review plant qualities online or at the library ahead of time, take a list of desired plants or qualities along for the shopping trip, and make smart purchases. Once at the nursery or plant sale, shoppers will benefit from a close evaluation of plant tags (with hardiness zone compatibility and other notes for proper planting conditions) and the option to talk to the experts.

Start by doing your research

Evaluate your yard by drawing a simple map and taking notes. Observe the direction each area faces, note any low-lying areas or slopes, and learn more about the soil quality. Pay attention to the location of structures or hard surfaces that may store heat on a sunny day, creating overnight warm spots, as well as large vegetation that may bring a sphere of shade and cooler temperatures. Perform timed checks every few hours (say 9 a.m., noon, and again at 3 p.m.) during the day to monitor sun and shade patterns. Be aware of elevation and rainfall.

32^nd Annual Plant Fair Set for
Saturday, May 9 ~ 8 am – 2 pm
at the Skagit County Fairgrounds

Kick off your spring plant-buying season at the Skagit County Master Gardener Foundation Plant Fair set for 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Saturday, May 9, 2026, at the Skagit County Fairgrounds in Mount Vernon. The event will feature more than 10,000 plants grown or tended by Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners for success in northwest Washington. More than 50 varieties of tomatoes and thousands of annuals, vegetables, herbs, perennials, trees, shrubs, berries, and more will be available. In addition, dozens of vendors will be on site with many offering plants and garden-related items. Admission and parking are free. Read the full press release>

Customers can plan ahead and prepare a shopping list by reviewing lists of plants that master gardeners will offer:

• List of tomato varieties>
• Lists of greenhouse-grown annuals, flowers, and herbs and Perennial Plant House propagated and grown perennials, trees, berries, figs and grapes>

The Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Program helps our communities with their gardening needs by providing science-based education, answering plant questions, and helping with plant problems. Proceeds from the annual Plant Fair benefit the nonprofit Skagit County Master Gardener Foundation, which supports the Skagit County Master Gardener Program.

Soil tests from several locations in the yard will help you understand what your soil may need to support healthy plants.

Washington State University’s Ag Weather Net provides regional climate information from several locations in Skagit and surrounding counties about wind, temperature, and precipitation information. A home garden weather station can help gather and archive data at your specific location.

The University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources Marin County Master Gardeners provides a detailed spreadsheet to help assess microclimates and the factors to consider when planning a garden or landscape.

Another research opportunity is to observe thriving landscapes or yards in your neighborhood or community, and to visit botanical gardens in the region to see and learn about plants that thrive in the northwest environment. The 30-plus garden “rooms” of the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Discovery Garden on Memorial Highway west of Mount Vernon offer many ideas and inspiration for gardens with themes ranging from naturescape and shade to dryscape or succulents. The Discovery Garden is open daily from dawn until dusk.

Say you have a one-third-acre lot with a single-level home in central Skagit County: 

Watch the frost and snow patterns. It’s not uncommon for the north side of the house to harbor frost eight to 10 feet north of the structure for hours after the white frosty layer has melted from the rest of the yard. Snow can remain in place for days in that swath. Plants in that area must be cold and moisture-tolerant. That’s a microclimate. Well-established plants such as a June-blooming rhododendron or a David viburnum (Viburnum davidii) can continue to thrive. Adding shade-loving ferns like Asian saber fern (Polystichum neolobatum), western sword fern (Polystichum munitum), or dragon tail fern (Asplenium ebenoides) along with a couple of perennials like bleeding heart (Dicentra spectabilis) and Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum) add texture and interest in the spring and appear year over year.

Pruning Shrubs for the Home Gardener

May Know & Grow

Free. No registration required.

Presentor: Anne Kurt, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener and Certified Master Pruner

Tuesday, May 19, 2026 ~ 1 p.m.

Sakuma Auditorium
16650 SR 536, Mount Vernon, WA 98273

Come learn some simple seasonal pruning tips to encourage the health and appearance of your garden shrubs. Learn to identify growth habit and determine the right time to prune and how. You will gain confidence and your garden will thrive.

Photo © Skagit County Master Gardener Foundation

The south side of the house can be quite a different microclimate. A large, south-facing patio and the house’s siding would make a true hot spot, even on warm spring days, much less on a 90-degree summer afternoon. A few plants in hanging baskets could thrive through the summer without an irrigation system. A raised bed or large pots tucked next to a south-facing wall or fence provide warmth and light reflection that tomatoes love, yielding lots of delicious fruit, steps away from the kitchen.

With careful plant selection and regular (sometimes twice daily) watering, larger pots filled with annuals and perennials can produce a beautiful abundance of color for the season. Plants with bright red and orange flowers, such as firecracker plant (Cuphea hybrid), Mexican lobelia (Lobelia laxiflora), and lantana (Verbenaceae) attract a number of pollinators including hummingbirds.

Make good plant selections. Create a list of plants that suit the landscape’s microclimates. This includes trees, shrubs, perennials, and annuals. Photos © Adobe Stock

Based on research and data gathered for your yard, you have options:

1. Make changes to manage a microclimate:

• Consider adding organic matter to improve soil moisture capacity or install an irrigation system for dry areas.
• Use raised beds for plants that need drainage and warmer soil temperature.
• Look into drains for slopes to allow water to flow in wet areas.
• Move and group plants that appreciate similar conditions.
• Protect more fragile plants with a shelter of tall plantings or a fence.

2. Make good plant selections. Create a list of plants that suit the landscape’s microclimates. This includes trees, shrubs, perennials, and annuals. Gardeners have access to a variety of resources for plant lists, including:

• Sunset’s Western Garden Book offers 30 lengthy lists with photos and plant details based on climate qualities, including sun, shade, dry areas, moisture lovers, and wind resistance.
• Great Plant Picks, the educational program of the Elisabeth C. Miller Botanical Garden in Seattle, offers many lists to support plant selections for gardeners living west of the Cascade Mountains from Eugene, Oregon, to Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada. Lists focus on drought tolerance, sun and shade, containers, and more.
• The Washington State Noxious Weed Control Board offers a printable list of noxious weeds.
• The Washington Native Plant Society provides information on invasive non-native plants that compete with native plants, plus lists on the plethora of Washington native plants that are special to Washington. 

Armed with details about your landscape, soil, light, and weather, along with a list of plants that are of interest, head out to the nursery or local plant sale with a disciplined plan to start with. Ask questions. Look at lots of plants. Make a measured selection of choices. Take those home, size up your status and, if needed, make another trip – oh, joy! The fun can stretch over a period of growing years as you watch and enjoy the maturation of your well-planned garden spaces tailored to your unique microclimates. 

References and Resources

City of Seattle Public Utilities. (2010) Natural Lawn & Garden Series: Choosing the Right Plants for a Beautiful, Trouble-Free Garden.

Elisabeth C. Miller Botanical Garden. (2026) Great Plant Picks.

McMoran, D, Huter, S. and Buller, S. (2015) How to Determine your Garden Microclimate. Washington State University Extension Bulletin FS181E.

Sunset Western Garden Book (2007) Sunset Publishing Corporation. Menlo Park, CA. 94025

University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources Marin County Master Gardeners. (2026) Garden Site Microclimate Evaluation Form.

U.S. Department of Agriculture’s (USDA) Plant Hardiness Zone Map. (2026) https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/

Washington Native Plant Society

Washington State University’s Ag Weather Net

ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Kari Ranten is a retired journalist and health care communicator who became a certified Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener in 2024.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the Skagit County WSU Extension website.

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Post: April 17, 2026

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The Amazing World of Geophytes

Bulbs, corms, rhizomes, and tubers: Plant ahead for joy in the future

Kari Ranten

By Kari Ranten, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners

We’re in the middle of April, and the Skagit Valley Tulip Festival is in full swing. It’s the time of year when visitors from across the globe descend on our valley to witness the marvel of acres and acres of color. Vibrant swaths of yellow, red, purple, and orange decorate the valley floor in commercial fields and exquisite display gardens.

Many home gardeners in our region also enjoy the pop of early color afforded by daffodils and tulips, and know it’s worth planting bulbs in the fall to get the reward of a spring color.

While these spring-blooming bulb plants are common to our region, home gardeners may not be as familiar with other options that start underground, such as corms, rhizomes, or tubers.

These are all geophytes, or “earth plants,” perennial plants with underground storage “containers” or systems. These underground storage containers are active and, when conditions are right, they grow, bloom, and reproduce after a period of dormancy. In general usage, all are referred to as “bulbs.”

Placing them all under the general category of bulbs, researchers note these plants have the common ability to store the plant’s complete life cycle in an underground storage structure. They all have a period of growth and flowering, followed by a period of dormancy.

The classification of these plants is based on their differing storage structures. True bulbs include tunicate bulbs (tulips) and imbricate bulbs (lilies). Corms (crocus, gladiolus), and tubers (dahlias) are referred to as bulbs, but have a different type of underground storage structure. Gardeners should pay attention to the bulb’s structure, the planting and emergence timetable, and planting recommendations to ensure blooming success.

Northwest Washington has been home to commercial bulb growers for decades, with more than 1,000 acres of tulips and daffodils grown annually in the Skagit Valley, yielding some 20 million bulbs and 75 million cut flowers.

While tulips are native to Central Asia, they were brought to the Netherlands by botanist Carolus Clusius in the late 1500s. Dutch immigrants to the Skagit Valley saw the potential of a maritime climate similar to Holland’s and began growing tulips and daffodils for commercial purposes in the 1940s and 1950s.

There are, however, many native bulbs in the region. The Puget Sound Chapter of the Washington Native Plant Society lists varieties of allium, lily, camas, iris, and hyacinth as native bulb plants. (See References and Resources.)

For the Love of Hummingbirds: The Ecology of Anna and Other Hummingbirds

April Know & Grow

Free. No registration required.

With Greg Green, senior instructor at Western Washington University

Tuesday, April 21, 2026 ~ 1 p.m.

Sakuma Auditorium
16650 SR 536, Mount Vernon, WA 98273

Want to learn more about hummingbirds and the ecology surrounding them?  WWU Instructor and wildlife biologist Greg Green has been studying hummingbirds for more than a decade. His presentation will include the story of the Anna’s hummingbird march north over the past 75 years. Come hear about  this fascinating relationship between plants and animals.

Photo © Greg Green

True Bulbs: 

Planted in fall as soil temperature drops to 60° F, September to December, daffodils and tulips lead the way for spring-blooming bulbs. Crocus, hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis), grape hyacinth (Muscari armeniacum), snowdrop (Galanthus nivalis), and ornamental onion (Allium) also fit into this category.

The structure features a basal plate, or the bottom of the bulb where the roots grow; flesh that shows storage “rings;” skin that covers the outside; and the “shoot,” where the developing flower and leaves begin.

Plant spring bulbs two to three times as deep as the bulb is tall. For most larger bulbs, such as tulips and daffodils, they are planted about eight inches deep, while small ones, such as crocus, are planted three to four inches deep.

Forgot to plant your bulbs? While not ideal, it’s still OK to get them in the ground in January or even February if the soil isn’t frozen.

Spring-blooming bulbs are winter hardy. After the plants bloom and die back, they typically need no attention before repeating the perennial cycle in the home landscape. Bonus about daffodils: They are deer and rabbit-resistant.

Summer-blooming gladiolus grow from corms which have a swollen base and should be arranged in the soil with buds protruding up. They are planted in the mid-spring after danger of frost has passed. Photos © Adobe Stock

Corms:

Plants that grow from corms include gladiolus, crocus, and freesia. The structure is solid and features a swollen stem base. Somewhat similar to bulbs, they lack the layers of flesh and covering. Spring-blooming crocus are corms, but fall-blooming crocus are not true crocus but a bulb in the lily family.

Gladiolus corms can be dug in the fall, separated, and stored for replanting, though many gardeners in our area can leave them in the ground with minimal or no loss.

Dahlias grow from tuberous roots which have buds or eyes near the crown. Photos © Adobe Stock

Rhizomes

Plants developing from rhizomes, such as lily-of-the-valley (Convallaria), canna lily, and iris, grow horizontally under the soil’s surface, which can result in the plant spreading.

Though not strictly botanically classified as rhizomes, the fleshy roots of daylilies and peonies appear very similar and are sometimes referred to as rhizomes and/or tubers. The roots of these plants can store nutrients. Peony root clumps should be divided in the fall, while daylilies can be divided in the spring or fall.

Depending on your USDA zone, summer bloomers may not be winter-hardy. Each bulb type has specific spring planting requirements for timing and depth, based on the last frost-free date in your zone.

Lily-of-the-Valley and bamboo both grow from another type of geophyte called rhizomes. These rhizomes can spread easily underground and can be managed with annual maintenance. Read our blog article growing bamboo Photos © Adobe Stock and Kay Torrance.

Tubers and Tuberous Roots

Caladium, Oxalis, Gloriosa, ranunculus, and anemone are all grown from tubers.

Structurally, a big difference between tubers and true bulbs or corms is the absence of a basal plate where roots develop or a tunic covering. They have “eyes” where the new plant will grow.

Dahlias fall into a slightly different category called tuberous roots. The plant’s energy is stored in an actual root, and it forms growth from buds at the top of the root or the base of the stem. Dahlias can be dug up in the fall and saved for planting the following spring, normally mid-May in northwest Washington. Other tuberous roots include all types of potatoes and daylilies.

This group of perennial plants, called geophytes-has the unique ability to store energy in their underground “storage containers” and burst forth with beautiful flowers throughout spring, summer, and fall. Identifying them as bulbs, corms, tubers, or rhizomes, helps a gardener understand what is required for successful growth. 

References and Resources

Bulbs, Corms, Rhizomes and Tubers. (2026) Penn State Extension.

Pokorny, K. (2025) Plant spring-blooming bulbs in fall for years of low-maintenance color. Oregon State University Extension.

Streich, A., Janssen, D., and Cue, K. (August 2007) Spring Flower Bulbs. University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension, Institute of Agriculture and Natural Resources.

What is a Geophyte? (2024) Coastal Gardener. University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources.

Bulbs. (2026) Backyard Farmer. University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension, Institute of Agriculture and Natural Resources.

Easy to grow native bulbs you should grow now. Washington Native Plant Society. Native Bulb Information

ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Kari Ranten is a retired journalist and health care communicator who became a certified Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener in 2024.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the Skagit County WSU Extension website.

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Post: April 3, 2026

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Cultivating Community: How local libraries help grow gardeners

You’ll find resources and inspiration at your local library

By Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners

For many of us, gardening is more than just a hobby that brings us joy. It’s a way of life that puts fresh food on the table and connects us to our neighbors.

For both seasoned gardeners and curious beginners, local libraries provide a valuable resource on the path to greener thumbs. Beyond books, libraries offer a vibrant array of services tailored for gardeners: from seed libraries and expert-led workshops to curated gardening resources and community events.

Earlier in the year, a group of Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners set out with a list of questions to ask their local library about gardening services. The library staff at each library welcomed our questions and encouraged master gardeners’ participation in their programming and book selections.

What Libraries Have in Common for Gardeners

As expected, each library confirmed that it has a collection of non-fiction books related to gardening. They encourage questions and are happy to help with resource questions. When searching for books and DVDs in the library catalogs, they said to use multiple keywords to narrow your search; for instance, a book about learning to garden in a warming environment may be found under “Climate Change” rather than “Gardening.”

Online Resources: 

A library card from any library opens the door to Libby through the free statewide Washington Anytime digital library system. Along with hundreds of books, Libby has more than 700 magazines under the Home and Garden tab.

Events for Gardeners:

Checking or subscribing to each library’s e-newsletter, or following their social media, are the best ways to stay informed about presentations of interest to gardeners.

Library of Things: 

The Mount Vernon and Burlington Libraries offer a “Library of Things” for checkout. Items range from telescopes and microscopes to park passes and games, many of which are geared toward youth. Gardening items include seed starting kits, mats, seed blocks, and microscopes.

Seed Library: 

A community-driven, open-to-the-public resource, all libraries, except Central Skagit, offer a seed library. Each seed library operates differently. Mount Vernon and La Conner’s are shelved with access whenever the library is open. Others offer a seed exchange on a seasonal basis, or as a one-day event. Seed libraries are a great way to save money while trying a limited number of new varieties. Jars and packets are well-labeled with take-home envelopes provided.

Gale Research: 

For those wanting a deeper dive into a topic, all libraries subscribe to Gale Research, a renowned publishing company specializing in authoritative reference materials and digital resources for libraries, schools, and academic institutions. Its comprehensive digital research tools and collections support students, educators, and researchers in conducting in-depth research on many topics, including science and botany.

Specific Plant Questions:

The master gardeners who interviewed librarians at their local libraries noticed an interesting correlation: librarians are often avid gardeners in their off hours. That said, they can direct patrons to plant identification and other relevant resources, but plant-specific questions are best directed to the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Plant Clinic and resources.

A Note about
Skagit County Libraries:

Unlike the library systems in neighboring counties, the libraries in Skagit County are funded through each city or in some cases a local taxing district. Each library offers free cards to residents, property owners, business owners within their area of service, and all teachers and students no matter where they live. Residents in unincorporated areas can purchase a card. Cardholders have reciprocity with other libraries in the county for no extra fee. See the footnote below about reciprocal agreements between libraries.

For the Love of Hummingbirds: The Ecology of Anna and Other Hummingbirds

April Know & Grow

Free. No registration required.

With Greg Green, senior instructor at Western Washington University

Tuesday, April 21, 2026 ~ 1 p.m.

Sakuma Auditorium
16650 SR 536, Mount Vernon, WA 98273

Want to learn more about hummingbirds and the ecology surrounding them?  WWU Instructor and wildlife biologist Greg Green has been studying hummingbirds for more than a decade. His presentation will include the story of the Anna’s hummingbird march north over the past 75 years. Come hear about  this fascinating relationship between plants and animals.

Photo © Greg Green

Anacortes Public Library

By Andrea Saxton, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

The Anacortes Public Library offers a robust selection of gardening books in nonfiction, covering topics from general techniques to landscaping, indoor and outdoor gardening, and PNW-specific practices. Part of the collection is funded by a donation from the Jeane Thomson family to the Anacortes Library Foundation.

The library subscribes to Horticulture magazine, and issues are available for browsing and checkout.

The APL hosts a Seed Library, maintained and stocked by Transition Fidalgo’s Seed Share group. Transition Fidalgo is a non-profit organization committed to climate resiliency and occasionally hosts gardening-related workshops and educational programs at the library.

Burlington Public Library

By Kari Ranten, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

The Burlington Public Library has a wide variety of gardening books ranging from bulbs to plant starts. The library has how-to books on creating different types of gardens, including cutting gardens, vegetable gardens, container gardening, and landscaping.

If a good afternoon for you includes perusing a magazine that you can hold in your hands, the BPL has subscriptions for Garden Gate, Mother Earth News, and Better Homes and Gardens. 

Every April, the Burlington Library holds a class on flower arranging, and in the summer, Sarah Wagstaff from SUOT Farm & Flowers hosts a story time for kids. Subscribe to the library’s newsletter to stay up-to-date about coming events at the library.

Central Skagit Library

By Cindy Bjorklund, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

The Central Skagit Library in Sedro-Woolley offers a wide variety of publications for the home gardener including books on fruit and vegetable gardening, flowers, gardening in the Pacific Northwest, and homesteading.

The summer reading program is titled Nature. Their physical magazine subscriptions include Self-Reliance, Mother Earth News, Fine Gardening, and Mary Jane’s Farm.

La Conner Swinomish Library

By Aven Wright McIntosh, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

The newest addition to the city library system, the La Conner Swinomish Library, reports a small but engaging adult non-fiction gardening section and a children’s section.

• For the past several years, LCSL has hosted workshops on eliminating food waste and Master Gardener Katryna Barber’s worm composting presentation.
• A small seed library with an ever-changing selection of seeds is open to the public for give-and-take. It is located in the community room and is open during library hours.

Library patrons learn how to easily research any topic on in-library computers, locate it on the shelves, or request a transfer from another in-district library. Burlington, Central Skagit, and Concrete share an in-district agreement. A La Conner Swinomish Library card still gives access to all six county libraries, it just works a bit differently for the libraries in Mount Vernon and Anacortes.

The library has the “Stay Sharp” Garden kit which can be checked out providing hands-on nature-inspired learning activities. The librarian also recommends the new “Steam Kits” program available online, which includes activities for kids’ gardening adventures.

Mount Vernon City Library

By Ginny Bode, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Mount Vernon City Library has an excellent seed library open to the public during library hours. The seed library along with the resources of the “Library of Things” are the inspiration behind this article. Beyond the books in the Dewey Decimal category 635 Gardening, librarians encourage patrons to look for garden-related books under all the 630 categories-Agriculture and Related Technologies, as well as under 580-Plants and Botany and 550-Earth Sciences. 

The collection of resources for gardeners depends on the size of the library; this factor is particularly important when discussing resources for children learning to garden. The Mount Vernon City Library, which boasts the largest children’s collection north of Seattle, includes many children’s books about science and gardening.

Along with hard-copy books and magazines for gardeners, the MVCL has a USDA-certified commercial kitchen which can be rented by the hour. Entrepreneurs starting food-certified businesses can rent space to make food for farmers’ markets, food trucks, and restaurants. The fees are affordable and a great resource for enterprising gardeners wanting to take their recipes to the next level. Learn more about the library’s kitchen facilities

Sno-Isle Regional Library System

By Linda Olmstead, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

The Sno-Isle Library system includes 24 libraries located in Island and Snohomish Counties. Library membership allows residents access to all libraries within the system. A “Library on Wheels” option is also available. Sno-Isle has an extensive collection of gardening and related materials in a variety of formats, including books, DVDs, e-books, magazines, and academic journals. Multiple databases provide access to a wealth of materials. Sno-Isle hosts online and in-person events at many of its locations. Library staff can also help members with advanced research on topics of interest through an in-person or virtual session.

• More than 1,000 gardening-related traditional format books are available for checkout by library members.
• More than 1,200 online gardening-related e-books can be checked out on the library’s website.
• The library offers gardening courses on DVD, some of which can be checked out and the remainder accessed online. Examples include “The Great Courses: How to Grow Anything,” “The Science of Gardening,” containing 24 episodes on various gardening topics, and “The Botanist’s Eye: Identifying the Plants Around You.”
• More than 80 gardening magazines are available digitally, along with physical subscriptions to Fine Gardening, Garden Gate, Martha Stewart Gardening, Gardens Illustrated, and Gardeners’ World.

Upper Skagit Library, Concrete

By Ginny Bode, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

The Upper Skagit Library reports “all sorts of gardening books from small-scale to market gardening how-to books,” along with several field guides on PNW native plants, including weeds.

The Upper Skagit Library occupies a storefront space in Concrete and works in concert with the Central Skagit, Burlington, and La Conner Libraries, so you can get any book from those libraries delivered to the Upper Skagit Library. Their physical magazine subscriptions include Mother Earth News, Fine Gardening, and Garden Gate.

Librarian Cody Johansen suggests “Secret Gardeners: Growing a Community and Healing the Earth” as a great book on sustainable gardening practices for children.

For online local resources, the librarian recommends: 

• “Sproutshare” is a Facebook group managed by Kerry Higgins at the Mansford Grange near Darrington. It hosts a community platform for posting available seeds, starts, and cuttings.
• “Seedtime” is a great app for planning and has educational courses as well.
• “Farm My Yard” is another great app for planning and shows which plants grow well in our area.

Elisabeth C. Miller Library, Seattle, Washington

By Ginny Bode, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

The Elisabeth C. Miller Library serves as a premier horticultural resource for both the public and professionals. Located near U-Village and UW Stadium, your Washington State Driver’s License qualifies you to receive a library card.

The library has more than 15,000 books and 400 magazine titles in-house. Managed by the Elisabeth C. Miller Foundation (not the UW Library system), the library is a welcome oasis for learning about all things horticultural. The large children’s library, with 1,090 books in the Youth Collection available for borrowing and another 449 in the Parent/Teacher Resource Collection. It is easy to many resources on specific areas of horticulture within the huge collection of books and periodicals focusing on gardening, botany, landscape design, and plant sciences. The library is a treasure trove of learning, offering community programs, garden walks, lectures, workshops, botanical art shows, and children’s activities.

The Miller Library website keeps an up-to-date calendar of local plant sales, garden tours, a plant answer line (much like the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Plant Clinic), and ongoing book reviews.

Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or planting your first seeds, your local library is ready to support your journey. By connecting people, sharing resources, and nurturing curiosity, libraries help gardens-and communities-flourish.

Library Reciprocity in Skagit County
(as provided by Central Skagit Librarian Anne Booker)

A brief overview: 

• Skagit County does not have a countywide library system but rather six independent library districts. Many, but not all of the people living in Skagit County pay library-supporting taxes to one of these districts.  
• Four of the library districts in the county have formed a consortium (Burlington, La Conner, Upper Skagit, Central Skagit). Patrons living in any of these four districts can use a card from any of these four libraries to check out at any of these four libraries.
• These four libraries share a catalog and share materials.  
• Folks living in either the Mount Vernon Library district boundaries or the Anacortes Library district boundaries are able to get cards at any of the other libraries, but do require a separate card.

If someone lives outside the boundaries of any library district, they are still able to obtain a library card at any of the libraries in Skagit County, but will need to pay a fee directly to the library. The fee varies from library to library and grants access only to the library where it is paid.

ABOUT THE AUTHORS:

This article was researched by a team of Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners, and was compiled by Ginny Bode with Kari Ranten, Linda Olmstead, Aven Wright-McIntosh, Cynthia Bjorkland, and Andrea Saxton.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the Skagit County WSU Extension website.

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Post: March 20, 2026

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A successful, nutritious potato crop requires the right start

Certified potato seed will get the home gardener on the right track

Kari Ranten

By Kari Ranten, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Potatoes are a staple on many dinner tables, which may prompt home gardeners to try their hand at growing these nutritious, plentiful vegetables. With a few tips in hand, these tubers are straightforward to plant, tend, harvest, store, and enjoy – some say “easy,” which is the perfect combination for the home vegetable gardener.

The vital step in gaining a successful potato harvest takes place before you start.

Every resource consulted in the preparation of this article, including an interview with Chakradhar Mattupalli, assistant professor of plant pathology at Washington State University’s Northwestern Washington Research and Extension Center (NWREC), points to one key action: Start with certified, disease-free potato seed.

“The main recommendation to any grower is to plant certified and clean seed to avoid as many diseases as possible,” said Mattupalli, who leads the Berry and Potato Pathology program at NWREC.

Mattupalli and fellow researchers at NWREC play a vital role in working with commercial growers to limit the impact of disease and pests on potato crops, plus work with developing new varieties that grow well in the temperate Pacific Northwest. In Skagit County, 11,000 acres were planted to potatoes in 2024, with most of the harvest sold in the fresh market. With that volume of commercial production, home gardeners can be assured that potatoes typically grow well in Skagit and the surrounding counties.

It’s also good to know that this vegetable, a member of the nightshade family, has nutritional benefits. Potatoes are a complex carbohydrate offering nutrients important to healthy eating such as minerals (potassium), fiber, and vitamins (antioxidant vitamin C, folic acid, and iron). More antioxidants are present in darker colored potatoes.¹

Researchers at WSU Mount Vernon Northwestern Washington Research & Extension Center (NWREC) play a vital role in working with potato growers in northwestern Washington. Chakradhar Mattupalli, assistant professor of plant pathology, leads the Berry and Potato Pathology program, conducting research and extension activities addressing the biology and management of diseases of highbush blueberry and potato crops. He provided guidance and resources in the preparation of this article. For more information about Mattupalli’s research, go to Berry and Potato Pathology | Washington State University.

NWREC is one of four WSU Research Centers operated by the College of Agricultural, Human and Natural Resource Sciences, housing nine research programs, extension outreach, and research affiliates. The research center works to solve plant-related problems and develop cost-effective and environmentally-sound plant production practices based directly on results from experimental field, greenhouse, and laboratory research trials.

Start with certified potato seed

Back to the beginning: Selecting certified potato seed from a reputable grower or seed distributor is the key. Home gardeners should not plant potatoes purchased at a grocery store, because the tubers are treated with sprout inhibitors. Neither should they use potatoes from the previous year’s harvest, to avoid transfer of potential pests and pathogens that will significantly reduce yield and quality.²

Certified seed potatoes are available from reputable retailers online, and in late February or early March, will begin to make their way to nursery and farm supply stores in Skagit County.

Home gardeners should think about the variety of potatoes to grow based on the desired use, the length of harvest season, and storability. The Pacific Northwest is known as a premier potato-producing region, where scientists in Washington, Oregon, and Idaho have developed 40 new varieties. Key varieties grown in the region include russets, those many think of as “baking” potatoes, with names like ‘Ranger’ and ‘Rainier’. Specialty or heirloom varieties also grow well in the region, including the ‘Makah Ozette’, a noteworthy historic fingerling variety. Others come with similarly interesting names including ‘Purple Majesty’ and ‘Russian Banana’. This list of potato varieties from the Northwest (Tri-State) Potato Variety Development Program and details on tuber qualities, yield, and disease resistance. Gardeners can choose varieties that span from early (65 days to harvest) to late season (more than 90 days to harvest).

Once a gardener has certified seed in hand, selecting a location to plant, watching soil temperatures and pH, and preparing the seed are the next steps to take before planting:

Location and rotation: Potatoes require full sun, meaning at least six hours of sun each day, and ideally eight to 10 hours per day, during the growing season. To prevent disease, use crop rotation techniques and choose a plot in the garden that has not been used to grow tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, eggplants, or tomatillos in the past three to four years. You may also use a raised bed.³

Soil pH and temperature: Check the pH of the selected garden location. Potatoes grow well in slightly acidic soil with a pH of 6.0, high in organic matter. Tubers grown in more alkaline soil are more prone to developing common scab. Planting can take place four to six weeks before the last frost date, and when the soil temperature hits at least 50° F.² Soil should be well-drained, as tubers will rot if exposed to extended cold and wet conditions.

Preparing and curing the seed: Potato seed should be firm and without sprouts. Small seed potatoes (those smaller than a chicken egg) can be planted whole, while larger seed should be cut (using a clean knife) into 1.5-inch cubes with one to three buds or “eyes” on each piece. Once cut, seed potato pieces should be cured for a few days at 50 to 65° F, before planting. Cornell University’s Growing Guide for Potatoes recommends curing seed potatoes by putting the cut potatoes into a large, paper grocery bag and folding the top closed. Leave the bag at room temperature for two or three days, then shake the bag to make sure the pieces are not stuck together. Let them sit for two or three more days before planting.⁴

Next steps involve soil preparation, planting, “hilling,” and watering:

Soil preparation: Once the soil temperature has reached at least 50° F, modest tilling, six to eight inches into the soil, is recommended along with amending the soil with compost or aged manure, (not fresh, which may introduce soilborne pathogens). Add fertilizer as recommended from soil-test results.³

Planting: Create shallow, four-inch trenches and place seed spaced every 10 to 12 inches in the bottom of the furrow. Cover the seed with four inches of soil. Rows should be two to three feet apart. Gardeners should see sprouts emerge in three to four weeks.³

Hilling: A technique called “hilling” is commonly used when growing potatoes and requires covering the potatoes with additional soil as they grow. When plants reach six inches in height, gently mound soil from between the rows to cover the tubers. This will need to be repeated every two weeks as the growing potatoes are again exposed to sunlight.³

Keeping the tubers covered with soil will help prevent the potatoes from turning green due to chlorophyll responding to sunlight. While chlorophyll is harmless, the green color can indicate the presence of solanine, a toxic compound that can cause bitter taste or illness.⁵

The importance of water: To avoid seed rot, do not water potatoes before the plants sprout. Once plants are up, they will need about two inches of water per week to keep the top 18 inches of soil moistened. Watering is recommended in the evening.³ Reduce watering in mid-August and wait until the plants die back before harvesting.⁵

Pests and Diseases:

Potatoes can be prone to a variety of pests, diseases, and physiological disorders. Some, such as common scab or hollow heart, may not be known until harvest, as they affect the exterior or interior of the underground tubers respectively. Other issues, such as late blight, may affect the leaves and tubers. WSU’s Hortsense resource will help home gardeners learn more about the pests and diseases that may impact potato crops in the region. WSU’s comprehensive site features more than 1,000 fact sheets with photos to guide home gardeners, manage problems in hundreds of plants using integrated pest management (IPM), including cultural controls and Washington state registered pesticides.

Pests to watch for include Colorado potato beetles, aphids, flea beetles, and wireworms. Diseases can include early and late blight, common scab, black scurf, and Verticillium wilt. Potatoes also can suffer from viruses such as potato mop top virus and potato virus Y (PVY).

For detailed, comprehensive, science-based information about potato varieties, pests and diseases, read:

• Hortsense: Potato Varieties
• Hortsense: Potato Pests
• WSU Plant Pathology: Potato Diseases

Store potatoes in perforated plastic bags or in well-ventilated containers in a dark, well-ventilated location with high humidity. Good storage areas include a refrigerator set to 40-46° F, an insulated garage, or a cool, dark basement. © Adobe Stock

Harvest and storage:

It can be a surprise when it’s time to harvest potatoes as the season’s action takes place underground. Gardeners are hoping for unblemished, disease-free, uniform tubers that will contribute to menus for months to come.

Mature tubers may be harvested about two weeks after the foliage has dried, generally 70 to 120 days after planting. Stop watering after the plants have died back. Dig carefully with a garden fork to avoid injuring the potatoes.

Clean the potatoes after harvest, either by brushing or lightly rinsing away soil. Sort the tubers and dispose of those that are shriveled, blemished, or diseased. During cleaning and storage, potatoes should be kept away from light as “greening” can happen during these phases as well.

Storability is a quality based on variety and skin thickness. To store potatoes, place them in a warm, well-ventilated area to allow the skin to set. Keep potatoes under cover or in the dark and allow them to cure for 10 days before storage.³ Gradually lower the temperature to 40-46° F, placing potatoes in perforated plastic bags or well-ventilated containers in a dark location with good ventilation and high humidity.² Good storage areas include a refrigerator set to 40-46° F, an insulated garage, or a cool, dark basement.⁵

Thinking about sweet potatoes? Sweet potatoes fare well when grown in warmer southern U.S. states. However, NWREC scientists are working on trials to develop sweet potato varieties for commercial growers in Skagit County. The first commercially grown harvest from Hedlin’s Family Farm was sold at the Skagit Valley Food Co-op in Mount Vernon in November 2025. For more info, read Sweet Potatoes find their way to Washington 

FOOTNOTES AND REFERENCES:

1. Posner, A. (2022) “Potato health benefits and why you should eat more spuds.” University of California Davis Health.
2. Ophardt, M. (2015) “Vegetables: Growing Potatoes in Home Gardens.” Washington State University Extension Fact Sheet # FS165E.
3. Schuh, M. and Tong, C. (2022) “Growing Potatoes in home gardens.” University of Minnesota Extension.
4. Cornell University. (2006) “Growing Guide: Potatoes.”
5. Pokorny, K. (2023) “Best practices for harvesting and storing homegrown potatoes.” Oregon State University Extension Service.
6. Pokorny, K. (2024) “How to grow sweet potatoes successfully in Oregon’s climate.“ Oregon State University Extension Service.

University of Maryland Extension. (2023) “Growing Potatoes in a Home Garden.”

ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Kari Ranten is a retired journalist and health care communicator who became a certified Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener in 2024.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the Skagit County WSU Extension website.

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Post: March 6, 2026

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Noxious Weeds in Skagit County

What Gardeners and Landowners Need to Know

By Deanna Hofmann, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Author Deanna Hofmann

Weeds are a pain to all gardeners, but some are worse than others. By identifying and managing the noxious weeds (also known as invasive weeds) most likely to appear in home gardens, along roadsides, and on rural properties in Skagit County, you’ll save yourself a lot of work and protect your neighbors, farm pastures and livestock, forests, wetlands, and stream corridors.

Get Started:

• Understanding Washington’s Class A/B/C system
• Knowing when control is required vs. recommended (which can vary by county)
• Avoiding buying, selling, or trading plants that are illegal to distribute in Washington

In Washington state, “noxious weed” is a legal term for invasive plants that are so aggressive they harm local ecosystems or disrupt agricultural production. They crowd out native species that fish and wildlife depend on, and they can cost farmers millions of dollars in control efforts and lost production.

Why This Matters: The Scale of Invasive and Noxious Weeds

Many invasive weeds spread quietly for years before their impacts become obvious-by then, they are far more expensive (and sometimes impossible) to fully remove. Putting the problem in context helps explain why early detection, prevention, and coordinated control matter.

Introduced weeds are estimated to cost the U.S. agricultural economy more than $26 billion per year (crop losses plus herbicide use), and non-native plant pathogens are estimated to cost about $21.5 billion per year (crop losses plus fungicide use). These figures highlight why farms, rangelands, and other plant-dependent sectors bear a disproportionate share of the economic impacts from invasive plants.

With more than 200 invasive species documented in Washington, it can be hard to pin down a single, county-specific dollar figure for Skagit’s noxious weed impacts. To get a sense of the problem’s scale, it helps to look at WSDA-supported statewide estimates that model impacts for a subset of high-risk species. In just one leading example-Scotch broom-we can see just how large the stakes can be. WSDA’s analysis estimates that $142.8 million in statewide business activity could be at risk, along with about 660 jobs and more than $36 million in lost wages. These impacts are paid in many ways: crop yield loss and herbicide costs; reduced forage and toxic plant risks for livestock; impaired forest regeneration; and degraded recreational access and habitat.

Here in Skagit County, local control programs track the problem through concrete on-the- ground metrics-acres treated, plants removed, and sites cleared. Skagit County operates WSDA grant‑funded programs for Spartina (cordgrass) and knotweed. In a WSDA progress report, Skagit County had the third‑largest Spartina infestation in Puget Sound. County updates also highlight priority work on Spartina, knotweed, poison hemlock (Conium maculatum), and giant hogweed (Heracleum mantegazzianum)-a reminder that Skagit’s noxious weed challenges include ecological damage, agricultural costs, and serious human and livestock health hazards. Weed laws establish all property owners’ responsibility for helping to prevent and control the spread of noxious weeds-because plants ignore property lines-home gardeners, farmers, public landowners, foresters, and ranchers all have a role to play.

Top Noxious Invasive Weeds in Skagit County

The following species are on the WSDA quarantine list:

• Common cordgrass (Spartina anglica) and other Spartina species (S. alterniflora, S. densiflora, S. patens). Considered one of the world’s most aggressive weeds, these species can displace native plants, destroy habitat, and convert estuaries into solid meadows. Eradication (that is, complete removal) of these Spartina species is required. (Class A).

Know & Grow Series

Composting and Vermiculture for the Home Gardener

Tues., March 17 , 2026 — 1 p.m.
— Free, no registration required —
at the NWREC Sakuma Auditorium
16650 State Route 536, Mount Vernon, WA

• Knotweeds, including Japanese knotweed (Reynoutria japonica; synonym Fallopia japonica) and Bohemian knotweed (Reynoutria x bohemica; synonym Fallopia x bohemica). These plants have a major impact along streams and in other riparian areas, completely displacing native plant communities, causing streambank erosion, and altering the nutrient cycle of salmon and other wildlife species. Control of these knotweed species is required in Skagit County. (Class B)
• Poison hemlock (Conium maculatum). All parts of this plant are extremely toxic to humans and livestock. Growing up to 8 feet tall, it has caused livestock deaths. It readily colonizes roadsides, vacant lots, pastures, and waterways. There are several similar-looking species, so proper identification is essential. Control of poison hemlock is required in Skagit County. (Class B).

• Scotch broom (Cytisus scoparius). This plant displaces grassland habitat and outcompetes native and beneficial plants. Scotch broom is of particular concern to the timber industry and is commonly found along Washington roadways. The plant’s volatile oils also pose a fire hazard. Control of Scotch broom is required in Skagit County (Class B).
   
  Scotch broom is a familiar sight along western Washington highways. It is a volatile fire hazard as well as displacing grassland habitat. It is estimated that Skagit County has 100 – 1000 acres of infestation. Image © Wendy DesCamp – WSDA
• Tansy ragwort (Jacobaea vulgaris, formerly Senecio jacobaea) is toxic to livestock and capable of causing liver damage. Control of tansy ragwort is required in Skagit County. (Class B)
• Garlic mustard (Alliaria petiolata) is an aggressive, shade-tolerant plant that can completely dominate forest floors and displace native species. It releases compounds into the soil that inhibit the germination of other plants. Eradication of garlic mustard is required. (Class A)
• Giant hogweed (Heracleum mantegazzianum). It can grow up to 15-feet-tall and causes severe skin burning and blistering. It outcompetes native plants and can be mistaken for cow parsnip. Assistance with identification and removal is strongly recommended. Eradication of giant hogweed is required. Giant hogweed is on both the federal and WSDA quarantine lists. (Class A).
• Italian arum (Arum italicum), also known as lords-and-ladies, Italian lily, or cuckoo’s pint. This ornamental groundcover has proven nearly impossible to remove once established. It is toxic to humans and outcompetes native species in sensitive habitats. For more information, consult the WSNB pamphlet titled Italian Arum. Control of the Italian arum plant is required in Skagit County. (Class C). Read our blog post about Italian Arum.
• Purple loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria), displaces large areas of wetland and riparian native plants needed by waterfowl and other wildlife for food, nesting, and groundcover. It alters nutrient cycles and food webs and can clog irrigation canals and drainage ditches. Control of purple loosestrife is required in Skagit County. (Class B).

Noxious Weed Classifications in Washington State

Class A noxious weeds are defined as having very limited distribution, and the goal is to completely eradicate them before they get a foothold in WA. Class A noxious weeds are the ones you are least likely to see, but they are the most important to report. If you see a weed that may be in this category, note the exact location and, if possible, take photos. Eradication of all Class A plants is required by law.

Class B noxious weeds are considered abundant in some areas of the state. The goal is to contain and reduce their occurrence where they are widespread and to prevent them from spreading to other areas of the state where they are less common. Many of these species have escaped from cultivation, having been introduced from other parts of the world and, in some cases, from other parts of the US.

Class C noxious weeds are widespread and/or of special interest to agriculture; counties may choose to require control locally.

WSDA Quarantine List (Prohibited Plants List) identifies plants whose sale or distribution is prohibited in Washington. It is illegal to transport, buy, sell, distribute, or offer these plants (or their seeds/plant parts) for sale in or into Washington, including online.

Important: A plant can be classified “not required for control” in your county and still be illegal to sell, swap, or share if it’s on the WSDA quarantine list. It’s important to check before buying, selling, or trading plants. See these websites for information and help: NWCB or WSDA. For online help identifying a plant, see WSU’s Hortsense. 

If You Think You’ve Found a Regulated Weed
For suspected Class A weeds or any high‑risk infestation near streams, wetlands, or pasture, document the location, take photos, and contact the Skagit County Noxious Weed Board for confirmation and next steps. County designation matters for many Class B and Class C weeds, so “required” vs. “recommended” control can change from one county to the next.
Noxious Weeds by Class
This list highlights many weeds most likely to affect gardeners, homeowners, farmers, and landowners in Skagit County. This is not the full state or county list.

CLASS A-Eradication is required statewide

• French broom (Genista monspessulana)
• Garlic mustard (Alliaria petiolata)
• Giant hogweed (Heracleum mantegazzianum)
• Kudzu (Pueraria montana var. lobata)
• Spanish broom (Spartium junceum)
• Bighead knapweed (Centaurea macrocephala)

CLASS B–Control required in Skagit County unless otherwise specified

• Butterfly bush (Buddleja davidii; synonym Buddleia davidii)-on the WSDA quarantine list except “accepted sterile cultivars” (≤2% viable seed).
• Garden loosestrife (Lysimachia vulgaris)-Control not required in Skagit County.
• Gorse (Ulex europaeus)-Control is required in Skagit County.
• Hawkweeds: Orange hawkweed (Hieracium aurantiacum) and yellow hawkweeds (Hieracium subgenus Pilosellaand hybrids)-Control is required in Skagit
• Hanging sedge (Carex pendula)-Control is not required in Skagit County
• Knotweeds-can spread by root and stem fragments; yard waste dumping and moving contaminated soil are common pathways. Control of the following species is required in Skagit County. Bohemian knotweed (Reynoutria × bohemica; synonyms Fallopia x bohemica and Polygonum × bohemicum)
• Giant knotweed (Reynoutria sachalinensis; synonyms Fallopia sachalinensis and Polygonum sachalinense
• Himalayan knotweed (Persicaria wallichii)
• Japanese knotweed (Reynoutria japonica; synonyms Fallopia japonica and Polygonum cuspidatum
• Lesser celandine (Ficaria verna; synonym Ranunculus ficaria)-toxic to humans and livestock.
• Malta starthistle (Centaurea melitensis)
• Policeman’s helmet (Impatiens glandulifera)
• Poison hemlock (Conium maculatum)-extremely toxic to humans and livestock; confirm identification because of similar-looking species.
• Rough chervil (Chaerophyllum temulum)-Control in Skagit County is required; it’s toxic to mammals.
• Scotch broom (Cytisus scoparius)
• Spurge laurel (Daphne laureola)-toxic; shade‑tolerant and can form dense stands. Control is not required in Skagit County.
• Tansy ragwort (Jacobaea vulgaris; synonym Senecio jacobaea)-toxic to livestock.
• Wild chervil (Anthriscus sylvestris)
• Yellow archangel (Lamiastrum galeobdolon)-Control is not required in Skagit County.

CLASS C-Infestation is widespread and/or of special interest; control of the following species is not required in Skagit County unless otherwise indicated

• Black locust (Robinia pseudoacacia)
• Bull thistle (Cirsium vulgare)
• Canada thistle (Cirsium arvense)
• Common holly/English holly (Ilex aquifolium)
• Common St. Johnswort (Hypericum perforatum)-toxic to livestock.
• Common tansy (Tanacetum vulgare)
• English ivy-four cultivars only: Hedera helix ‘Baltica’, ‘Pittsburgh’, ‘Star’, and Hedera hibernica ‘Hibernica’.
• Evergreen/cutleaf blackberry (Rubus laciniatus)
• Himalayan blackberry (Rubus armeniacus; synonyms include Rubus bifrons)
• Italian arum (Arum italicum)-toxic; extremely difficult to eradicate once established. Control is required in Skagit County.
• Japanese eelgrass (Nanozostera japonica; synonym Zostera japonica)
• Norway maple (Acer platanoides)
• Oxeye daisy (Leucanthemum vulgare)
• Shiny geranium (Geranium lucidum)
• Tree‑of‑heaven (Ailanthus altissima)
• Yellow flag iris (Iris pseudacorus)

WSDA Quarantine List: The “Don’t Buy/Sell/Trade” List
WSDA’s Noxious Weed Seed and Plant Quarantine (WAC 16‑752) makes certain plants illegal to sell, distribute, or transport in or into the state-including internet sales and informal plant swaps. All Class A weeds and many Class B and Class C weeds are included, along with some additional plants added to prevent new introductions.
 
The free Western Washington Field Guide to Noxious Weeds is a helpful booklet with pictures.
Management Begins with Identification and Prevention
Know your noxious weeds. Friends don’t let friends share noxious weeds. What may be a nice ground cover in one area of the state may be an invasive weed in another. Choose non‑invasive plants. When you identify a noxious weed on your property, remove it and dispose of it in the garbage. Do not put it in the yard waste or compost. Report high‑risk weeds early. 

This article covers Washington’s A/B/C classification system, a selection of key terrestrial noxious weeds relevant to Skagit County, the NWCB monitor list of plants of concern, and why WSDA quarantine rules matter for gardeners and landowners. If you have water on your property, be aware of the need to control aquatic noxious weeds.

Detailed and site‑specific, step‑by‑step control prescriptions can be found in the resources listed below.

SOURCES:

Skagit County Noxious Weed Control Board. (n.d.). Skagit County noxious weed information and species lists.

Washington State Department of Agriculture. (n.d.). Prohibited plants and seeds in Washington State: A summary of current regulations on sales of noxious weeds and other invasive exotic plants (brochure).

Washington State Department of Agriculture. (current). Washington Administrative Code (WAC) 16‑752-Noxious weed seed and plant quarantine (prohibited plants list). 

Washington State Noxious Weed Control Board. (n.d.). Noxious weed profiles and publications. 

Washington State Noxious Weed Control Board. (2025). Washington State noxious weed list (printable common and scientific name lists).

Pacific Northwest Weed Management Handbook. (current). Pacific Northwest Weed Management Handbook 

DiTomaso, J. M., Kyser, G. B. (Eds.). (2013). Weed control in natural areas in the western United States. University of California, Weed Research and Information Center.

Additional References for the “Scale and Scope” Section

1. Fantle-Lepczyk, J. E., Haubrock, P. J., Kramer, A. M., Cuthbert, R. N., et al. (2022). Economic costs of biological invasions in the United States. Science of the Total Environment, 806, 151318.

2. Washington State Noxious Weed Control Board. (n.d.). Economic impacts of invasive species in Washington State (report).

3. Skagit County Noxious Weed Control Board. (n.d.). Skagit County Noxious Weed Control Board program information (Spartina and knotweed programs).

4. Washington State Department of Agriculture. (2020). Spartina Eradication Program: 2020 Progress Report (Skagit County infestation and funding metrics).

5. Skagit County, Washington. (2022). County noxious weed program update identifying priority weeds (Spartina, knotweed, poison hemlock, giant hogweed) (commissioner meeting materials).

ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Deanna Hofmann is a retired interpretive naturalist who became a certified Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener in 2025. She has a degree in Environmental Science from Huxley College, Western Washington University.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the Skagit County WSU Extension website.

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Post: February 20, 2026

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Tips on Collecting Rain Water

A self-sufficient gardening practice

By Jane Billinghurst, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Originally published in April 13, 2018

Rain barrels are a low-cost, low-maintenance way for you to reduce your water bills and be more self-sufficient in your gardening practices. Rain might seem to be absent in the Skagit Valley over the summer, but Mount Vernon, for example, averages a little under one and three-quarter inches each month from May to September. If you have 1,000 square feet of roof draining into rain barrels, this comes to about 1,000 gallons of rainwater for each of these months-more than enough to fill an array of 55-gallon rain barrels around your house.

To put that into perspective, if you want to apply an extra inch of water to 500 square feet of garden each month in summer (in addition to rainfall), that will take just over 300 gallons of water a month or about half a dozen rain barrels’ worth, which means that one rain barrel is good, but multiple rain barrels are even better.

Site your rain barrels next to downspouts, then divert the downspout so the water flows directly into the barrel. Bear in mind that the barrel might overflow, which you definitely don’t want happening right next to your house. Therefore, you want to attach a hose pipe to an overflow spout at the top of the barrel and have it empty in a safe place (at least 15 square feet of porous ground is recommended at a minimum of 10 feet away from foundations or hard surfaces such as driveways or sidewalks and 5 feet away from neighboring property or rights of way).

Direct the downspout so it flows directly into a rain barrel with a mesh guard on top to keep debris and mosquitoes out of the barrel. Photo © Skagit Master Gardener Foundation

Multiple rain barrels at the Discovery Garden, west of Mount Vernon, provide all of the water needed for seed starting and plant propagation until mid-April.  Photo © Skagit Master Gardener Foundation

Alternatively, you can install a downspout diverter that temporarily diverts rainwater from the downspout into the barrel. When the barrel is full, the diverter shuts off access to the barrel, and the rainwater flows down the spout once again.

Once you have decided where you want to place your rain barrels, what next? A 55-gallon rain barrel full of water weighs over 400 pounds. You need a sturdy base to support such a heavy weight and keep it level. The barrel also needs to be elevated enough that you can fit your watering can under the spigot and enough to provide water pressure if you are using a hose to empty the barrel.

The Skagit PUD site listed at the end of this article includes some tips on connecting a series of rain barrels together to increase the amount of rainwater you can store. Other sites offer options, as well.

Make sure you put a mesh guard on top of your rain barrels to keep mosquitoes from laying eggs in them, and remember to clean off the guard regularly to prevent it from getting clogged with debris washed down the downspout.

Use a clean, food-grade container to ensure you start with a barrel free of pollutants. The container should be opaque to keep out sunlight and prevent algae growth. Since you won’t be irrigating your plants in the winter (they won’t be growing and will get plenty of rain anyway), take the opportunity to rinse out your barrels. If you store them upside down, you won’t have to worry about them collecting water and freezing over winter, which might cause them to crack. You can set them up again in March or April when temperatures warm, plants start to grow, and there’s still lots of rain to catch.

There are several factors that affect how clean the water coming off your roof is. These include your location, the composition of your roof, and whether your roof has recently been treated with chemicals to control moss or algae. WSU publication #FS280E, “Potential Contaminants in Residential Rain Barrel Water” (see resources at the end of this article), goes over these issues in detail. To be on the safe side, avoid irrigating vegetable gardens with rainwater collected from roofs. Reserve it instead for ornamental plants in your yard and containers.

A number of online sites have useful resources on rainwater collection for our region. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention has a page on rainwater and health. Washington State Department of Ecology covers rules for collecting rainwater. Skagit County Public Utility District has information on constructing, installing, and maintaining rain barrels. Washington State University Extension goes over potential contaminants in rain barrel water, and US Climate Data gives rainfall averages where you live if you want to calculate for yourself just how much rainwater you might be able to collect. Use the formula 0.623 gallons x square footage of the catchment area x inches of rain per month or year, depending on the length of time.

Know & Grow Series

Composting and Vermiculture for the Home Gardener

Tues., March 17 , 2026 — 1 p.m.
— Free, no registration required —
at the NWREC Sakuma Auditorium
16650 State Route 536, Mount Vernon, WA

RESOURCES:

Collecting Rainwater and Your Health. (2024) US Centers for Disease Control

Soak up the Rain. US Environmental Protection Agency.

Rainwater Collection. Department of Ecology State of Washington

US Climate Data – Mount Vernon, Washington

Chalker-Scott, L. (Rev. 2025) Potential Contaminants in Residential Rain Barrel Water. WSU Extension Publications #FS280E Washington State University, Pullman, WA

Tate, K. Rain Barrels 101: DIY Tips & Tricks for Collecting Rainwater. Skagit Public Utility District, Mount Vernon, WA

ABOUT THE AUTHOR: Jane Billinghurst became Skagit County WSU Master Gardener in 2005. 

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the Skagit County WSU Extension website.

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Post: February 6, 2026

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Getaways: Public Gardens provide inspiration from coast to coast

Master gardeners share ideas for gardens to visit across the country

By Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners

Visiting a special garden in another part of the country can provide ideas, inspiration, and an education for all gardening enthusiasts. It’s no surprise that master gardeners often incorporate a garden visit into their travel itineraries, drinking in the beauty and diversity of the natural landscape in places near and far.

Of course, the focus is often on the anticipated beauty of blooms and color from spring to fall; however, many gardens host special events and features during the holidays and winter that offer lovely after-dark variations on trees, plants, and water features.

A column published this time last year focused on gardens in the Pacific Northwest. This time, several Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners expand their horizons to include interesting garden destinations across the United States, from Maine to California, and in British Columbia. Details for each garden include website links, contact information, and logistics to help prepare for a visit.

The Chinese Garden at the Huntington is one of the largest classical-style Chinese gardens outside of China. Photo © Pexels.com | Utsukushii

The themed gardens and conservatories at the Huntington feature over 84,000 plants, with extensive collections of rare plants. Photo © Pexels.com | Maxie T.

Huntington Gardens

By Ginny Bode, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Huntington Gardens, north of Los Angeles, offers a breathtaking blend of art, history, and nature. It is difficult to choose what to explore first – the stunning themed gardens, world-class art collections, or rare manuscripts.

Originally the San Marino Ranch, the estate was acquired in 1903 by Henry E. Huntington, a railroad and real estate tycoon. He and his wife, Arabella, created a place for their passions: Art, rare books, and plants. Since 1919, the Huntington has been in a public trust for education and enjoyment.

The entrance fee offers more than can be experienced in a day and includes the 130-acre botanical garden and conservatories, as well as the rare manuscripts and art collection. The living plant collection alone encompasses 84,000 individual plants, which are tended for education, conservation, and research.

The Huntington’s desert plant collection is known as one of the world’s largest and oldest collections of cacti and other succulents – and is worth the visit alone. The new Desert Conservatory showcases both old-world succulents and new specimens, such as the echeveria (Crassulaceae family) with its large rosette leaves.

In winter, 80 species of camellias and 1,200 cultivated varieties begin to bloom, peaking in January throughout the Japanese Garden, North Vista, and Garden of Fragrance.

The three-acre curated Rose Garden was updated in the 2010s, including the concrete trellis trees working alongside the classic sculptures and pergolas. The 2,500 individual roses are auditioned for show and smell, as well as their ability to perform well without the use of insecticides or fungicides. The initial bloom begins in March and extends through November.

The serene landscapes extend west with a view of the Pacific Ocean in the distance. Vibrant flora and a tranquil atmosphere provide a perfect escape, making it an inspiring destination for plant and art lovers year-round.

Visit the Huntington Gardens website
Location: 1151 Oxford Road, San Marino, CA, 91108
Hours and tours: Online ticket reservations daily.
Admission: $28 – $34
Contact information: 616-405-2100

Butchart Gardens

By Ginny Bode, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Butchart Gardens on Vancouver Island, near Victoria, BC is a gem of a garden get-away. A visit can be made either by car and ferry, or by boat or float plane, accessing via the dock located below the Japanese Garden on Brentwood Bay. Those who remember visits from decades ago will not be disappointed-now in its 122^nd year, Butchart Gardens continues to be over-the-top-beautiful.

Designed in a depleted limestone quarry next to her husband’s cement processing plant, Jennie Butchart had an idea in 1904. She didn’t stop until it was fulfilled, using the couple’s personal wealth to create what is now a National Historic Site of Canada and drawing approximately one million visitors annually.

Butchart Gardens isn’t one single style but a collection of themed gardens, including the Sunken Garden, Japanese Garden, Rose Garden, and Italian Garden. A show garden rather than a botanical garden, Butchart Gardens is a prime example of horticultural artistry, rotating annuals alongside permanent features to create vibrant, ever-changing floral tapestries for seasonal impact.

Visiting in the fall is as beautiful as spring and summer, with fewer crowds to navigate. Though busy when we arrived in mid-afternoon (after docking the boat), we enjoyed the golden light of the day with very few others after the buses left at 5 p.m. The combinations of dahlias and verbena, or begonias and coleus, grow in large swaths of color to create inspiring combinations for planters and small areas in my own garden.

Surprisingly, most of the 55-acre garden is hand-watered, with only steep hillsides and grassy patches on timed watering systems. The garden is cared for by a team of more than 50 full-time gardeners, which swells to more than 500 summer employees. Since visiting, several fellow master gardeners have told of their visits during the “off” season and how beautiful the garden is year-round. Now I understand why the garden sells year-round passes. During the December holidays, the gardens are bathed in more than 300,000 twinkling lights and other features, including the “Twelve Days of Christmas,” for evening viewing.

Visit the Butchart Gardens website
Location: 800 Benvenuto Ave, Brentwood Bay, BC, Canada
Hours: Open year-round, with varying daily and seasonal hours.
Admission: $44.25 CDN
Contact Information: 866-652-4422

University of British Columbia Botanical Garden

By Diana Wisen, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

The University of British Columbia (UBC) Botanical Garden is the oldest university botanic garden in Canada. Visiting UBC Botanical Garden is a real treat for serious plant lovers. The garden was started in 1916 to collect, study, and showcase the wide variety of plants from the temperate regions of the world, particularly North America and Asia.

This science-based garden, about a 25-minute drive west of downtown Vancouver, BC, is known for its extensive collections of several species, including acer (maple), magnolia, sambucus, styrax, and rhododendrons, among others. These wild-collected specimens are for research as well as educating the public. Used for UBC research, this huge garden is designed to show natural habit and is not what you would call a park type or display garden. UBC offers self-guided tours as well as guided group experiences and team building (collaborative group activities).

Included in the tour options is the Nitobe Memorial Garden, a 2.5+ acre, traditional Japanese stroll garden and authentic tea house located at the University of British Columbia.

The UBC Botanical Garden gift shop is one of the best garden shops – a true shopper’s paradise. As the garden is in Canada, remember that most seeds or plants may not be transported across the border.

Visitors will gain a deeper appreciation for the great diversity and wide variety of plants that thrive in our temperate climate. Visit the UBC Botanical Garden website for current fee schedules. 

Visit the UBC Botanical Garden website
6804 SW Marine Drive, Vancouver, BC, Canada  V6T 1Z4
Hours: Vary by season with special winter events.
Admission: Varies by season and age.
Contact Information: 604-822-4208. Email: garden.info@ubc.ca

Appreciating Native Plants and Incorporating Them into Your Garden
Tuesday, February 17, 2026 1 p.m.
— Free, no registration required —

Native plants do more than just look pretty in our landscapes. They provide services to the other plants and animals in our gardens – and to us gardeners too. This presentation, by Sarah Zabel and Nan Maysen, is about the role that native plants play in our backyards and offers ideas and inspiration for creating thriving communities of plants in various garden settings, along with their tag-along fauna!
Sarah Zabel is co-manager of the Salal Chapter of the Native Plant Society’s Native Plant Garden and has a life-long interest in native plants stemming from her hiking days. 
Nan Maysen had a 40-year career in environmental education including her own business, Natural Landscapes Design. She has been active with the Washington Native Plant Society since 1992.
at the NWREC Sakuma Auditorium
16650 State Route 536, Mount Vernon, WA

Winterthur Museum, Garden & Library

By Diana Wisen, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

The garden is the artistic vision of its creator, Henry Francis du Pont (1880-1969), and is surrounded by nearly 1,000 acres of meadows, farmland, and waterways. The views in every direction are important to the whole. The paths are an integral part of the overall design, curving rather than straight, following the contours of the land, passing around trees, and drawing walkers into the garden.

Winterthur is a unique home, garden, museum, and library created by du Pont and located in Delaware’s Brandywine Valley near Wilmington. The museum, garden, and library are best known for du Pont’s extensive collection of American home furnishings and decorative arts, which is considered by many to be the best in the country. Du Pont expanded the original home to 175 rooms to house his collection.

The naturalistic gardens, woodlands, and meadows offer 25 miles of hiking trails. Tours are offered, and visitors can also take a narrated tram ride. It’s a peaceful and quiet place, especially beautiful in spring. For a taste of the beauty at Winterthur go to YouTube and type in Winterthur Museum.

Visit the Winterthur website
Location: 5105 Kennett Pike, Winterthur, DE  19735
Hours: Vary by season with special winter events. The gardens can be explored on foot, or guests may take a narrated tram ride from March through December.
Admission: Varies by season and age.
Contact Information: 800-448-3883

When planning to explore the Brandywine Valley, you may also want to visit Longwood Gardens in nearby Kennett Square, PA, and the Wyeth Museum.

Longwood Gardens – Kennett Square

By Diana Wisen, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Longwood Gardens is a world-renowned botanical garden like no other that defies verbal description. In short, you have to see it to believe it. To maximize the experience, it’s best to study the garden website for several hours when thinking about visiting it. It is more than a garden with more than 10,000 different plant species and varieties, combined with mind-boggling showmanship.

The grounds feature 1,100 acres of gardens, woodland, meadow, conservatories, casual and fine dining, many kinds of musical experiences, fountains, model trains, and breathtaking seasonal displays. Ask anyone who has seen the hanging chrysanthemum globe or the poinsettia trees. You may want to plan for two days and visit other sites in the area.

Visit Longwood Gardens website
Location: 1001 Longwood Road, Kennett Square, PA  19348
Hours: Vary by season with special winter events.
Admission: Admission is by time. Tickets purchased in advance.
Contact Information: 610-388-1000 or questions@longwoodgardens.org

New England Botanic Garden at Tower Hill

By Kari Ranten, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Set on 200 acres about an hour’s drive from Boston, the New England Botanic Garden at Tower Hill is home to 18 distinct gardens – from formal to woodlands – in what is described as a “living museum.” The garden was founded in 1842 by the Worcester County Horticultural Society as “a place for people to experience the wonder of plants, learn about the natural world, and make joyful connections.” The public was invited into the garden in 1986 and now features a landscape crisscrossed with walking trails and accessible pathways. Water features, including ponds and fountains, are found throughout the gardens, which also offer many places to view the beautiful Wachusett Reservoir, the second-largest body of water in the state of Massachusetts.

A summertime visit to the garden yields views of colorful annuals and perennials, a test vegetable garden including heirloom tomatoes, water features, greenhouses, and the welcome cool of the woodland walk. The entire garden is dotted with interesting artwork, including the “Friendship Urn” in the woodland area, a replica of one originally displayed in Taunton, England, designed for the Massachusetts garden to honor two great English landscape garden designers, Henry Hoare and Sir Charles Tynte.

The garden showcases artwork throughout the year and, in summer 2025, featured “Art in Motion,” a collection of 17 fascinating stainless steel kinetic sculptures crafted by artist and engineer George Sherwood. Check the website for upcoming exhibitions that complement the gardens’ beauty.

Visit the New England Botanic Garden
Location: 11 French Drive, Boylston, MA, 01505
Hours: Open daily: 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Check the website for special holiday hours for the garden’s annual “Night Lights” celebration.
Admission: Varies by day of the week and age.
Contact Information: 508-869-6111

The Ware Collection of Blaschka Glass Models of Plants

By Diana Wisen, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

The internationally acclaimed display of “flowers” at the Ware Collection of Blaschka Glass Models of Plants at the Harvard University School of Natural History is a must visit while you are in Boston. It is worth making the effort to go see these “flowers that never fade,” a most astonishing and hard-to-believe exhibit you will ever see. The exhibit features life-size models so perfect that you will think you are looking at real plants. The collection features 847 flowers plus other glass models, such as a bee pollinator on a particular plant, and how both behave at the moment. Or the effect fungi are having on a rose, infecting it with disease. In all, the collection includes more than 2,000 glass models. This collection was created by the Blaschka father-and-son duo, Leopold and Rudolf, in Dresden, Germany, and was financed by the Ware family between 1887 and 1936. You have to see it to believe it. Check out the website for more information, including how the glass plants and flowers were made. It’s a good one to put on your East Coast bucket list.

Visit the Harvard Museum of Natural History website
Location: 26 Oxford Street, Cambridge, MA 02138
Hours: Open daily, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. (excluding holidays)
Admission: General admission to the Harvard Museum of Natural History gives access to all exhibits, including the Glass Flowers Gallery. Tickets can only be purchased at the admissions desk and the museum shop.
Contact Information: 617-495-3045

Hands on Rose Pruning Workshop
Saturday, March 7, 2026 2-4 p.m.
— $10 registration fee, limited group size —
The Discovery Garden at 16602 State Route 536, Mount Vernon

Proper pruning can improve roses’ appearance and overall health. Learn the right way to prune roses: hybrid teas, climbers, and landscape roses. Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners will lead this two-hour, hands-on instruction in the Discovery Garden’s Rose Garden. Learn when the best time of year to prune roses, the right tools, how to sterilize tools, and techniques for ensuring healthy, long-lasting roses. No prior gardening or pruning experience is necessary.

Rain or shine! This activity is fully outdoors. Bring your clean and sharp bypass pruners, garden gloves, and dress appropriately for the weather. This is a hands-on outdoor workshop! Participants will work in small groups, space is limited.

Free parking is available at the Discovery Garden. Meet in the Pavilion, a short walk from the entrance on level ground. Workshop cost is $10 (cash and checks only). Advance registration and payment is required. Participants will need to sign a liability waiver on site before starting the workshop.

A limited number of reduced rate tickets are available for those with financial need. To register and for more information, contact Sue Moulton at (360) 428-4270 or smoulton@wsu.edu.

Coastal Maine Botanical Garden

By Kari Ranten, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

The splendor and variety of plants, coupled with the whimsy of the giant trolls found in the Coastal Maine Botanical Garden, make return trips to this venue inspirational every time, every season.

Started as a grassroots effort among friends, the garden is now the largest botanical garden in New England, with more than 300 acres along the Mid-Coast of Maine near the picturesque community of Booth Bay.

The buildings and central gardens are ADA-compliant, while the paths throughout the rest of the large campus range from gravel to trails. A shuttle runs throughout the gardens during open hours with convenient drop-off and pick-up locations.

Focal points for various gardens feature ponds, a focus on the five senses, rhododendrons, dahlias, irises, lawns, arbors, a children’s garden, a native butterfly house, and Burpee Kitchen Garden. In the woodland area, where trails offer views of the saltwater inlets and natural flora and fauna, a Fairy House Village encourages creativity among visitors of all ages.

An added draw is the collection of five giant, whimsical trolls, known as the “Guardians of the Seeds,” by Danish artist Thomas Dambo. The famed artist uses recycled wood to create the enormous trolls, tucked into the garden’s forests. Each has a name, a story, and teachings that put focus on sustainability and caring for the Earth. The troll that welcomes visitors is Roskva, which stands for the trunks and is described like this: “Roskva is the heaviest, hardest, and strongest of the trolls. Every day, Roskva climbs towards the sky, and every year she grows taller and wider. If a troll forgets something, they can always ask Roskva – she counts the seasons and remembers everything that happens around her.”

Dambo’s trolls are featured in installations around the world, with several located in the Pacific Northwest, including Ballard, Issaquah, West Seattle, Bainbridge Island, and Vashon Island.

Visit the Coastal Maine Botanical Garden website
Location: 105 Botanical Gardens Drive, Boothbay, ME, 04537
Hours: The gardens are open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily from May 1 to October 19. “Gardens Aglow,” featuring thousands of colorful lights, runs evening hours from late November through early January, with advance ticket sales required.
Admission: Varies by age.
Contact Information: 207-633-8000

Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Discovery Garden

Close to home is the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Discovery Garden located on Memorial Highway (SR 536), west of Mount Vernon. The garden is open daily from dawn to dusk at no charge. For information, or to take a virtual stroll around the Discovery Garden’s garden room, visit our website. First-time visitors are often surprised by the extensive collection found in the 1.6 acre garden. The well-maintained paths wind through 33 garden rooms, including a koi pond, an herb garden, a vegetable garden, and many benches for resting. Each garden focuses on specific plants that thrive in the Skagit Valley.

The Discovery Garden, which opened 30 years ago, is maintained by 150 volunteer master gardeners and is designed to inspire and educate the public. An annual open house is held in the garden from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. on the last Saturday in June, featuring a plant clinic and children’s activities.

These are just a few of the hundreds of beautiful gardens that await in every corner of the continent. Each unique destination will help educate and inspire visitors by illustrating the region’s flora and fauna, which are as unique as the region itself.

ABOUT THE AUTHORS: Diana Wisen has been a master gardener since 1991; Ginny Bode, since 2022, and Kari Ranten, since 2024.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the Skagit County WSU Extension website.

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Post: January 16, 2026

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Bring Winter Color to Your Garden with Hellebores

Transform your winter landscape with these exquisite perennials

 
Jessamyn Tuttle

By Jessamyn Tuttle, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Even though we’re lucky enough to have mild, mostly green winters here in the Pacific Northwest, we’re already starting to get a little starved for flowers by January. If you’d love to see some color in your winter garden other than green and brown, consider planting some hellebores, a perfect way to get your flower fix. A well-behaved perennial that comes in a range of colors, hellebores can start blooming as early as December and continue the show through March.

There are about 15 species of hellebore, none of which are native to the United States. The most common garden species are Helleborus niger and Helleborus orientalis. H. niger is commonly called Christmas rose, because it starts blooming as early as December. A very sturdy plant with waxy leaves, it tends to be just under a foot tall, with masses of single white flowers with yellow stamens. H. orientalis, called Lenten rose, blooms later, usually late January through mid-March, and tends to be taller, from 1 to 1.5 feet high, with downward-facing blooms. Both species are hardy in zones 4-9 and prefer shade.

Hybridizers have developed hellebore cultivars with deep-purple, almost black flowers like this H. orientalis in author’s garden. Photo © Jessamyn Tuttle

H. foetidus is a showy plant with deeply dissected leaves and small pink and green bell-like flowers on stems. Photo © Jessamyn Tuttle

A bit less commonly grown is H. argutifolius, also called Corsican hellebore or holly-leaved hellebore, which is the largest of the hellebores at 3′ tall and up to 5′ wide, with showy stalks of white flowers. It’s happy in part shade to full sun, requires good drainage, and is fully drought-tolerant once established. A caulescent (stemmed) species, the flowers form at the end of the leaves instead of coming up directly from the base, and when bloom is over, the entire leaf stem can be cut. This category also includes H. foetidus, or stinking hellebore (not as smelly as the name would suggest), a showy plant with deeply dissected leaves and small pink and green bell-like flowers.

Helleborus orientalis with Epidmedium and native bleeding heart in author’s garden. Photo © Jessamyn Tuttle

Helleborus orientalis with primroses and bleeding heart in author’s garden. Photo © Jessamyn Tuttle

Most hellebore flowers tend to come in pink and purple tones, but include pure white, green, purple so dark it’s nearly black, and even yellow. Many have freckles or smudges, and there are double-flowered varieties for extra showiness. Hellebores had a resurgence of popularity in the 1990s. Since then, there have been considerable improvements in the quality and variety of plants, with new cultivars and strains coming out every year. One of the best is a hybrid strain called Winter Jewels®, developed by Northwest Garden Nursery in Oregon. These hellebores have fine foliage and elaborate flowers, like ‘Cotton Candy’, a double baby pink with dark pink freckles, and ‘Cherry Blossom’, a strawberry-streaked flower with a ruffled center like an Elizabethan collar. There’s also a yellow with raspberry veining and speckles called ‘Golden Sunrise’.

Other popular hybrids include ‘Ivory Prince’, a very tough, early-blooming plant with dark burgundy-pink buds that open to upward-facing, creamy white flowers, and ‘Monte Cristo’, with white/peach/pink flowers contrasting with blue/gray foliage. Another stunning variety is ‘Anna’s Red’, from the Frostkiss® series, with rich pink flowers that darken to burgundy and dark leaves marbled with cream.

Hellebores do best in bright shade and can tolerate a range of soils. Like all plants, they should be well watered for their first summer in the ground, but then are moderately drought-tolerant, although most varieties appreciate regular summer water.

Helleborus orientalis in author’s garden. Photo © Jessamyn Tuttle

Helleborus x hybridus ‘Windcliff Double Strain’
Photo © Jessamyn Tuttle

Plants grow in gradually expanding clumps and can reseed but are generally not invasive. The flowers remain decorative for some time after full bloom but can be cut off to prevent reseeding and encourage foliage growth. Like a sword fern, new growth comes out of the center of the clump as the previous season’s leaves fall to the ground. Since hellebores are very susceptible to botrytis, a fungal disease, and to keep things tidy, cut off old leaves as the new flowers rise in the winter or early spring. Plants can be divided to propagate them, but they prefer being left alone and will often take an extra year to bloom again if disturbed.

When planting new hellebores, make sure to put them where you can see them bloom in winter. Plant in combination with spring bulbs, especially early daffodils and crocus, and other winter-blooming plants like cyclamen and witch hazel for a fabulous winter garden, or mix with other tough shade plants like sword fern and Epimedium for year-round interest in a dark corner. They make a beautiful groundcover under deciduous trees, where the flowers can shine before the trees leaf out, providing them with summer shade. They can even do well in containers as long as you don’t mind the lack of summer flowers.

Hellebores at Washington Park Arboretum, Seattle, WA Photo © Jessamyn Tuttle

All hellebores, like many other plants in the Ranunculaceae family, are toxic to people and animals if ingested. However, this is rarely a problem because the leaves are tough and a bit prickly. Still, it also means that deer very seldom interfere with them. In addition to being deer-proof, hellebores seldom have trouble with insect or slug damage. Although aphids can occasionally crop up, they can be washed off with a blast of water from a hose and seldom do lasting damage.

Because many hellebores start putting up flower stalks in January, there’s always a risk that they’ll get snowed on or frozen. While this won’t hurt the plant, it can sometimes result in damaged stems. Usually, they’ll just pop right back up after the snow melts, but if stems are broken, cut the flowers and bring them inside to float in a shallow bowl of water for a beautiful table display. Bringing them in as cut flowers also lets you admire them up close without getting down on hands and knees in the muddy yard.

If you’re just starting to be interested in hellebores, take advantage of local nurseries holding special hellebore days, or visit garden shows and public gardens to see huge swaths of hellebores in full bloom in February and March, then take that inspiration back to your own garden to make next winter spectacular.

Resources:

Hellebores: Winter Jewels. Portland Nursery Blog, Portland, Oregon

Our Hellebores. Northwest Garden Nursery

Bunting, A. (2025) Hellebores: Care, Varieties, and Tips for Your Garden. The Pennsylvania Horiticultural Society

Poisonous to Livestock: Helleborus niger – Christmas Rose. Cornell University, Ithaca, NY

Plant Finder: Helleborus orientalis. Missouri Botanical Gardens, St. Louis, MO

Great Plant Pics: Corsican Hellebore. Elisabeth Carey Miller Garden.

Caulescent Hellebores… A Hint of Silver, a Touch of Platinum. Pacific Horticulture.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
Jessamyn Tuttle is a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener, Class of 2017. She is co-manager of the Perennial Plant House in the Discovery Garden on Hwy 536 west of Mount Vernon.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the Skagit County WSU Extension website.

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Post: January 3, 2026

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Phenology in Nature

Studying nature’s cycles and signals for greater understanding in the garden

By Kathy Wolfe, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

 
Kathy Wolfe

Birds migrate, plants and flowers bloom, certain insects appear, frost arrives, leaves bud or fall, all as part of our seasonal year. The garden does not pace itself to our calendar. Spring may come early one year and later another. By reading certain biological phenomena, we can accurately predict when to plant particular plants, when to worry about the arrival of unwanted weeds and insects, and when to protect our plants from frost.

Phenology is the study of the periodic events in biological and animal life cycles and how seasonal and interannual variations influence them. It is an ancient craft used by our ancestors to manage their lives and their crops successfully and uses natural indicators to read the progress of climatic cycles. Without the ability to learn from and act upon clues taken from seasonal changes, human survival could be jeopardized.

The word phenology comes from the Greek “plaino” meaning to show or appear. It is the study of the timing of biological events in plants and animals, such as flowering, leafing, hibernation, migration, and reproduction.

The Chinese are thought to have kept the first written records dating back to 974 B.C. Early indigenous peoples determined that corn should be planted when the oak tree leaves were the size of a squirrel’s ear. Early settlers in Kentucky noted that green peas should be planted at apple blossom time. Some say the unique call of the whippoorwill is saying, “Plant your peas! Plant your peas!” Northern farmers found that Irish potato yields were best when planted as dandelions began blooming in open, sunny spots. Dandelion blooms also indicated planting time for beets and carrots. Other time-honored correlations included planting hardy crops such as asparagus, rhubarb, horseradish, and strawberries when peach and plum trees bloom; planting perennials when maple leaves emerge from buds; watching for lilac bloom to plant squash and beans, and pruning roses when forsythia blooms. Some famous historical figures who recorded their own phenology observations include Thomas Jefferson, Aldo Leopold, and Henry David Thoreau.

Many seasonal events in animals and plants are tightly tied to temperature. Other environmental variables, such as day length, available moisture, and water temperatures, frequently play a role. Global changes, such as urbanization and habitat fragmentation, also shape phenology. Plants and animals use a combination of these to determine their breeding, migration, bloom, and other life cycles to thrive.

If two species require the same combination of factors, these cycles coincide. Migration or breeding could occur later in a cool spring year and earlier in a warm one, but they have always appeared together. So, when a caterpillar emerges and needs leaves to eat, or when chicks hatch and need caterpillars, those foods are available to them at the right time. A balance is established, and a cycle begins. When plants and their pollinators become mismatched, both parties suffer. Plants lose their pollination services, and pollinators lose their food source.

Extensive phenology data is collected from the ancient archives of Asian monks, farming records from the seventeenth, eighteenth, and nineteenth centuries, biological records that study preserved, pressed plant collections from early explorers, almanacs, meteorologists, satellites from around the world, nature journals, and even old photographs. Comparing this information with our current records concludes that springtime is arriving earlier and global temperatures are rising. As temperatures rise earlier, trees leaf out, flowering, and fruiting advance.

Autumn patterns are not as easily chronicled as those in spring because events such as leaf color change and leaf drop can be affected not just by temperature but also by day-length and available moisture. In general, these autumn events are shifting later in the year. Globally, some animals are also changing their breeding season and migratory patterns.

This information is fascinating, but how does this affect me? Some changes that may occur are:

At the grocery store
Crop success depends on many factors, including daily temperatures, rainfall, extreme weather events, and the presence of pollinators, pests, and diseases, all of which farmers track and use to make decisions on sowing and harvesting, fertilizing, optimizing disease and pest management, and crop rotation. How farmers adapt to these changes affect crop availability and pricing.

Other ramifications include if fruiting plants like blueberries, cherries, and apples bud out early and the last frost hits, the tender plant tissue may be exposed to freezing temperatures, jeopardizing fruit production.

Many fruit and nut trees, such as pears, peaches, plums, walnuts, almonds, and pistachios, require exposure to a winter chilling period to produce a large quantity of fruit. Extremely warm winters can affect their fruit yield and quality.

In springtime, if plants are cued by warmer temperatures to leaf out and bloom earlier, and insects use day-length as an indicator for hatching, mismatches in the species’ interactions for pollination are significantly reduced, and seeds are less likely to form.

Longer growing seasons and our health
To those allergy sufferers out there, you are not imagining that you are having stronger and longer reactions year-to-year. Since 1990, the pollen season has lengthened by more than 20 days in the U.S., and the amount of pollen generated by wind-pollinated plants has increased by about 20%. 
Milder winters and a longer growing season
We gardeners are all in favor of a longer growing season. Unfortunately, these conditions also foster early emergence and longer life-cycles for disease-carrying insects such as ticks, which transmit Lyme disease, and mosquitoes, which transmit dengue, West Nile virus, encephalitis, and malaria.

Waterborne illnesses from warmer, fresh, and marine waters promote the growth of harmful bacteria, algae, viruses, and parasites. These are but a few of the changes observed in both the biological and animal worlds due to longer springs, as noted in current phenology data. 

Phenology is a valuable tool for understanding the interconnected relationship between living organisms and their environment. Knowing changes in data helps monitor climate change, support agricultural planning, support wildlife management, monitor ecosystem health, and support cultural practices. Even as nature is beginning to adapt in some areas, it is important to watch, record, and learn to make the best decisions moving forward.

If you are intrigued about what is happening in your immediate environment, it is simple to start your own adventure into phenology. Begin by observing, taking notes, and tracking events in your garden or yard year-to-year. Common examples include the dates when migrating birds return, the first flowering dates for plants, and the dates when a lake freezes in the autumn or thaws in the spring. Notice the duration of events and connect them by using simple knowledge. Use the information you gather to plant your garden using natural cycles. You will learn more about your world and the beautiful intricacies of nature than you ever imagined.

To participate further in the phenology adventure, go to the USA National Phenology Network Nature’s Notebook project and become involved. You can watch a YouTube video on what this involves on their website listed below. For a deeper dive, read University of Arizona Associate Professor Theresa M. Crimmins’ new book Phenology, part of the MIT Press Essential Knowledge series.  

Resources for more information:

Crimmins, T. (2025) Phenology MIT Press Essential Knowledge series

USA National Phenology Network.

“Monitoring phenology on the National Wildlife Refuge System” UWFWS Phenology Network – a collaboration between the United States Forest and Wildlife Service and the USA National Phenology Network.

Karns, G. (2022) “The Ohio State Phenology Calendar: Understanding Nature’s Biological Clock”, Ohio State Maple publication, The Ohio State University College of Food, Agricultural and Environmental Sciences.

Project Budburst, Chicago Botanical Garden, Regenstein School.

Delahaut, K. (2012) “What is ‘Phenology” University of Wisconson-Madison, Wisconsin Horticulture Division of Extension.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
Kathy Wolfe has been a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener since 2002. She is co-manager of the vegetable garden at the Discovery Garden on SR 536 west of Mount Vernon.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the Skagit County WSU Extension website.

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Post: December 6, 2025

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Hoe! Hoe! Hoe! Gifts for gardeners

Choose tools, gadgets, and technology for gardeners based on their interests

By Kari Ranten, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

 
Kari Ranten

The holidays provide a great opportunity to give your favorite gardener something to serve as a helping hand to support their hobby.

While the ideas ranging from old school to high tech are endless, think about what the gardener in your life enjoys most and hone in on the tools of the trade that will help them in their growing endeavor. Do they want to start seeds indoors? Are they interested in propagating plants? Do they want to learn about pruning? Are they left-handed? What about tools for maintaining the garden? How about garments for the garden? Do they like to use technology?

To assist in your search for the perfect gift, here are a few ideas for tools, gadgets, and technology that can be procured at a local garden center or nursery, hardware store, or online.

The gardener interested in starting seeds or propagating plants ahead of the spring season can always use a few supplies:

• A log book or calendar can be a handy way to plan for the coming season and then record when and where planting took place, what seeds or starts were used, and track the progress and success to aid in growing seasons to come.
• Seeds, of course. Winter is a fun time to explore seed options and look forward to the possibilities presented by the coming growing season. To provide your gardener with options to peruse and dream over, order up a few seed catalogs from purveyors specializing in the Northwest growing environment.
• An air-tight seed saving system to help organize seeds by type, planting season, color, location, and other functions is another handy gift idea. Throw in some plant markers or tags to identify what’s sprouting and, ultimately, transplanted to the garden.
• A seed starting operation will benefit from a few basics, including trays for planting, proper seed-starting soil, and, of course, seeds. Several companies offer kits with everything a gardener needs to use soil blocking or other seed starting techniques, including some with self-watering options.
• For the seed starting trays, include humidity domes with space to keep the seedlings warm and moist and allow them to grow a bit after sprouting. A succession of small pot sizes will also support the plant growth progression.
• Depending on the space available – from a corner shelf in the garage to a full-on greenhouse setup – heat mats and lights come in all sizes with timers and programming options. Again, some companies offer small-scale seed starting kits, including LED lights, suitable for a shelf or tabletop in the house.
• A fan, such as a small battery-operated or electrical device, is helpful for air circulation for starting seeds and cuttings.
• For those who want to propagate plants from cuttings, such as geraniums, fuchsias, houseplants, and more, include the items for seed starting, plus some small, sharp clippers for trimming stems for planting.
• A soil thermometer and/or moisture meter can be handy too.

What will be helpful for pruning?

• To trim back grasses or cut small tree or shrub limbs, lightweight handsaws, and hand-held battery-operated chainsaws are available in a variety of models. Be sure to evaluate whether the blade is suitable for the intended use and the size of the limbs that will require trimming.
• On a smaller scale, a nice set of small, straight-blade, hand-held pruners make a great stocking stuffer. The more sets of pruners a gardener has, the merrier!
• If your favorite gardener is left-handed, manufacturers offer pruners and other hand tools tailored to their needs.

What’s most helpful to maintain the established garden? There are a variety of ways to look at garden maintenance, which can be aided by the right tools.

• An overwhelming choice among Skagit County Extension Master Gardeners for a must-have garden tool is a hori hori knife. This tool can be handy for weeding, planting bulbs, dividing perennials, cutting roots, and more. Be sure to include a sheath for safe transport in the garden and storage.
• For weeding, a stirrup hoe aids in the task, separating roots and leaves with a scrubbing action, allowing the gardener to remain standing for the job.
• For dividing, moving, or removing plants, the “Root Slayer” gets high marks from Skagit County Extension Master Gardeners and others. The tool is a V-shaped shovel with serrated edges that helps cut through roots and soil.
• A garden cart or wagon always comes in handy for moving plants, pots, soil, or delivering garden debris to the compost pile.
• Watering is an important job for the gardener, and a variety of tools:
  • Watering cans in the appropriate sizes for doing the job manually. The gardener should have at least one with a long, extended spout to reach into small spaces and make sure everything gets moisture.
  • Hoses in the required length to reach plants that will routinely need watering are helpful, along with the proper attachment or wand to reach pots, hanging plants, and beds.
  • If a gardener is interested in an automated watering system, do some research into potential DIY options or consider hiring a professional to install a system.
• Combination garden kneeler and stools have become popular to improve accessibility and comfort when weeding and planting.

What are the best garden garments?

• Garden gloves are always welcome, and preferred materials can vary by the season. From waterproof models for fall and winter to lighter-weight options for summer, a gardener can always use another pair.
• It may seem cliché, however, overalls are a popular choice for the busy, bending-over, hard-working gardener. Bib overalls offer comfort, flexibility, and breathability along with a plentiful number of pockets for tools, tough, soil-resistant fabrics in plain colors and fun patterns, and reinforcement at the knees.
• For overalls or shirts that go with them, many gardening garments offer UPF sun protection, which is a nice feature to prevent sunburn.
• An apron with pockets for lighter duty gardening chores is also useful.
• On the sun-protection front, a wide-brimmed hat for the garden is a must, to keep the rays off the neck and face.
• If you don’t have your gardener’s size, remember that a gift card is a one-size-fits-all solution.

For the gardener who enjoys technology:

• A wide variety of small weather stations for the home are available for those who want to know about rainfall, humidity, barometric pressure, wind speed and direction, and temperatures in their garden that include a real-time wireless feed to deliver data to your phone and indoor console.
• Monitors for the greenhouse can provide information on temperature, humidity, and more. Similar systems are available for watering systems.
• Compact countertop seed starting and herb growing units can bring the gardening to the kitchen all year round.
• Apps for the phone include a wide range of options from alerting gardeners to an impending frost, reminders to water, and a fertilizer calculator.

As you can see, there is no shortage of gift ideas to support your favorite gardener. Happy holidays!

Resources for more information:

Compagnucci, S. (2025) This $28 Garden Tool Cut My Weeding Time in Half. The New York Times Wirecutter.

Kumar, G. (2016) Propagating Shrubs, Vines, and Trees from Stem Cuttings. Oregon State University Extension. PNW 152.

Kumar, G., Larsen, F. and Shekel, K. (2009) Propagating Plants from Seed. Oregon State University Extension. PNW 1i70.

Murgel, J. (2025) Simple Plant Propagation: How to divide plants and conquer hearts. Colorado State University Extension.

Rennie, A. (2023) The Best Pruning Saws to Keep Your Trees and Shrubbery Neat and Tidy. Popular Mechanics.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
Kari Ranten is a retired journalist and health care communicator who became a certified Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener in 2024.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the Skagit County WSU Extension website.

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Post: November 21, 2025

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Dreaming and decision-making for a greenhouse

Questions and options to consider if a greenhouse is right for you

By Kari Ranten, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

 
Kari Ranten

The short days of the coming winter have gardeners missing the abundant growth, harvest, and busy days of the summer just past. Many are already dreaming about the potential of the upcoming growing season.

At this time of year, characterized by shortened days and gray skies in the Northwest, the opportunities for spring seem endless: What to grow? What seeds to buy? What were the favorites from seasons past that could be wintered over? Is there something new to try? More vegetables? More flowers? Something tropical?

With all of this potential, it makes sense that many gardeners’ thoughts turn to ways to fill the gardening void of winter. The likely answer may be to add a greenhouse to extend the growing season or make gardening a more year-round enterprise.

“When people make something by hand – with their own hands – it takes on a different level of value. So, it is with the food and flowers that we grow with our own hands. Having a greenhouse enables you to enjoy this therapy on a daily basis in any season,” writes Shane Smith, author of Greenhouse Gardener’s Companion, Growing Food & Flowers in Your Greenhouse or Sunspace (2000). Smith’s book is considered by many to be a must-have for those who desire or use a greenhouse. The Chicago Review Press notes Smith’s book is “The most comprehensive book on greenhouse gardening available today.”

The extension of the joy of gardening throughout the year is certainly a big draw. However, adding a “hobby” greenhouse requires considerable planning, decision-making, and resources. Winter may be just the season to spend time researching the idea of a greenhouse and to learn more about a potential project for the coming year. It takes some time to evaluate the right option for your specific goals, location, and budget, as well as address the myriad of questions that will come up. This column will pose some of the key questions you will want to ponder before moving forward with a greenhouse or other structure, such as a lean-to, cold frame, or tunnels. (Beddes, et al. 2022)

The most fundamental questions to start with are: What do you want to grow? How do you plan to use a greenhouse? Answers to these questions will help you get started as you dig into the details of location, space, materials, size, power, and lighting needs for a growing space.

A greenhouse can be used in a variety of ways. Before making a decision, know that each option presents a decision-making path to get to the ultimate plan for a structure that is right for you.

Here are a few considerations:

Want to start seeds? The first use that naturally comes to mind when thinking about adding a greenhouse is its use as a venue to get a head start on seeding flowers and vegetables, including tomatoes, squash, beans, and others, in early spring. Here, you will need to consider whether you want a heated or unheated space, based on the plants you plan to start.

“Because seeds like warm temperatures to germinate (often in the 65 to 75°F range), you will have to provide heat and light to help get your seeds to germinate. This can be done with LED grow lights and a heat mat, but that also means that you will need electricity in your greenhouse.” (Marshall, 2022).

Extending the season? A greenhouse can also be used as a season extender beyond summer, with fall planting of vegetables such as lettuce, spinach, and other greens, for harvest and enjoyment throughout the winter months. Heat and light requirements will also apply in this case. (Beddes, et al. 2022).

Protecting fragile plants? Suppose you want a protected place for delicate plants to spend the winter out of the cold, including cuttings of favorite perennials such as fuchsias, clematis, or herbs. In that case, a greenhouse can be a handy solution. Additional candidates may include geraniums and other annuals you want to hold over for another season. Some may not require a greenhouse; instead, they may need a garage or basement (Howard, 2025).

Tropical plants require a different environment than growing vegetables. Knowing which types of plants you want to grow helps you make decisions. Photo:© Adobe Stock

Tropical ideas? A greenhouse can be a year-round place for plants that may need a slightly warmer environment than our Zone 8b provides (https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/), such as citrus trees and orchids. “For example, it is said that George Washington grew lemon, limes, pineapples, and other tropical fruit in a greenhouse in 1787 at Mount Vernon. Glasshouses, as they were originally called, became the rage in England and later in America. They eventually came to be called greenhouses because the plants inside stayed green all winter long.” (Marshall, 2022)

Free-standing or lean-to? Designs and materials? Take advantage of resources on design options and materials to build with, including fiberglass, plastic, polycarbonate, and glass. Floor materials can also vary, including a slab, pavers, or gravel. Many do-it-yourself kits are available on the market, offering a wide range of sizes and amenity options. Design plans are also available online, offering options for building with recycled materials, including windows, doors, shelving, and other reusable building supplies.

Power? Heat? Lights? Ventilation? Research the climate and weather patterns where you live and match them with the desired use for the space to determine if you need access to power for heating, lighting, fans, or ventilation. An extension cord from the house may be enough. Otherwise, running power to the facility may be the right choice. Options can include space heaters, heat mats, and grow lights, which can be set to timers and scaled as needed. Technology also enables in-home, real-time monitoring linked to your cell phone, allowing you to view 24/7 conditions in the greenhouse, including humidity and temperature. Thermally activated automatic vents can also be installed and adjusted for temperature control. A drip watering system on a timer is also an option, or you can rely on rain barrels and watering cans.

Where will you put the greenhouse? How big should it be? A greenhouse requires a level area (or space that can be leveled) and meets the size and light needs. Many greenhouse owners caution gardeners to be honest about the space they need, based on their goals for use, to avoid an undersized project. Also, consider whether storage for gardening items, as well as plants, is needed.

What is the correct exposure? Ideally, the space will afford a south or southwest exposure to meet the daily sunlight needs of a greenhouse, which acts as a collector of solar heat. (Smith, 2000).

What about shelving or spaces to hang baskets? Plants, including seed starts and succulents, require more shelf space compared to plants in large pots. Pay attention to the materials used in greenhouse construction or the kit to make sure additional shelving or a bar for hanging plants is included or can be easily added. Gardeners recommend allowing for maximum flexibility to move plants, lights, and heat mats around as needed, while avoiding overcrowding.

Have a budget based on your decisions: With all these considerations in mind, they must match up with the project budget. “Before spending time and money, it is best to define your crop production goals, budget, and local climate challenges.” (Beddes, et al. 2022).

It takes work! Remember, once in place, the greenhouse requires ongoing maintenance, cleaning, watching for evidence of pests (like aphids, scale, etc.), disease (fungal and bacterial) and over- or under-watering (like edema or damping off), as well as regular time and attention – even with timers and automation.

For now, enjoy the dreaming and promise of spring.

Resources for more information:

Extending the Garden Season from Utah State University Yard and Garden Extension. 

The Hobby Greenhouse by Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service.

References:

Beddes, T., Caron, M., Hansen, S., and Gunnell, J. (2022) Extending the Garden Season. Utah State University Yard and Garden Extension.

Chicago Review Press. (2025)The Greenhouse Gardener’s Companion 

Howard, D. (2025). How to Overwinter Plants: Protect Geraniums, Roses, Herbs & Tropicals From Frost. The Old Farmer’s Almanac. 

Marshall, R. (2022) A Greenhouse for Everyone. Massachusetts Horticultural Society. 

Schnelle, M., Dobbs, S., Needham, D., and Dole J. (2017) The Hobby Greenhouse. Oklahoma State University Extension Fact Sheet HLA-6705. 

Smith, S. (2000) Greenhouse Gardener’s Companion: Growing Food & Flowers in Your Greenhouse or Sunspace. Fulcrum Publishing. Golden, CO.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
Kari Ranten is a retired journalist and health care communicator who became a certified Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener in 2024.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the Skagit County WSU Extension website.

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Post: November 7, 2025

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Compost structures combine science, nature, and art

How to take an artistic approach to compost structures

By Kari Ranten, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

 
Kari Ranten

Showing home gardeners how to compost yard and garden waste successfully is a cornerstone of the teaching priorities embraced by the WSU Extension Master Gardener program. It’s an age-old concept of allowing naturally occurring microbes to convert leaves, grass clippings, and other garden materials into a soil amendment and home for beneficial insects, worms, and other creatures.

“Gardeners have used compost for centuries to improve their soil and help plant growth. Incorporating compost into light, sandy soil helps it hold both moisture and nutrients, while adding it to heavy soil improves drainage.” (Rosen et al. 2018).

About Master Gardener Herta Kurp

Herta Kurp has served as a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener volunteer since 1995 and, in addition to helping lead the composting program, is responsible for many of the creative installations throughout the Discovery Garden. Her projects include the archways at the main entrance and northwest corner of the garden; the plant house shade structure; a tall fence camouflaging the greenhouse and various benches, trellises, fences, and gates to individual gardens.

She also created the design for the dogwood sculpture near the main entrance, which was fabricated by the Skagit Valley College 2022-23 Weld Club. She also designed and helped construct the new worm chalet at the Skagit County WSU Extension office. Kurp grew up in Germany, where she developed a deep appreciation for agriculture and the environment. She studied architecture, came to the United States while in her 30s, and owned her own architectural firm specializing in residential design. Her latest projects have focused on building creative, attractive, and small-scale compost structures in the garden.

The process also reduces the burden on the environment. “Composting reduces the flow of wastes to landfills or burn piles and produces valuable organic matter for the soil at the same time… Composting is a simple, yet important way to improve our communities and the environment.” (Cogger et al. 2017)

Despite the proven benefits, a compost pile may not be the homeowner’s favorite thing to tend to or look at all year long. Gardeners often contain compost in an enclosure using wire or wood fencing, cement blocks, bricks, or a commercially available bin to prevent the materials from spreading or blowing away.

The good news is: There are more artistic options. The Skagit County Master Gardeners’ Discovery Garden provides examples of small-scale composting structures that take an attractive and creative approach, thanks to longtime Master Gardener Herta Kurp.

Kurp has been involved with the Discovery Garden since the mid-1990s, before trees were planted and structures built. She helped shape the plan and built environments of the garden and led the composting program. Until the past couple of years, a centralized system of bins was in use to support composting for the entire 1.5-acre garden.

More recently, Kurp and other master gardeners have started to explore the use of smaller composting stations within the 30 different garden “rooms” at the garden. So far, about 10 percent of the material generated for compost has been redirected to the individual gardens’ smaller compost stations, creating efficiency and points of interest.

Know & Grow

Creating Outdoor Holiday Arrangements

Free, no registration required
Just in time for the holiday season, Skagit County Extension Master Gardener Karen Bruce will demonstrate how to create a festive outdoor container display using a variety of readily available greenery and berries from the landscape, such as evergreen branches from fir, pine, cedar, spruce, and other greenery. If you have greenery to share with others, you may bring some along for attendees to take home for an arrangement.

Join us for this free, pre-holiday event!

Tuesday, November 18, 2025 – 1 pm – 2:30 pm

NWREC Sakuma Auditorium 16650 State Highway 536, Mount Vernon

At the Discovery Garden, Kurp has always focused on her keen interest in composting, permaculture, and caring for the environment, while also nurturing her creative side through hands-on design and building structures. The outcome is the development of a series of informal “habitat heaps” within individual gardens that carry an artistic flair, using materials readily available within the garden.

Kurp collects items pruned from the garden during routine maintenance and uses those supplies to construct interesting compost structures that blend into the garden landscape. Twigs, vines, branches, and raspberry canes are turned into small-scale compost piles, creating a natural, artistic look that blends into the landscape. This approach supports the insects, birds, and other creatures of the garden, is less expensive, and more attractive.

© Kari Ranten

“This stirred my imagination and creativity,” she said. “We can use all of the materials that would go into a burn pile or compost. The structure itself is organic and can become compost in the end.”

In the Meadow area of the Discovery Garden, a tall structure built of larger branches complements a nearby 15-foot tree snag that was intentionally left to support the environment. On a late spring day, a fledgling robin took a break on the compost structure during an early flying lesson. 

In other areas, a teepee shape is built and enhanced with wreaths made of dogwood branches that are pliable when first pruned and easily fashioned into a circle.

“It becomes a part of the personality of the garden and every season it looks different,” Kurp said of the natural structures. “In winter, the structure comes to the fore, like the skeleton of the garden. In other seasons, it blends more into the surrounding growth, providing a screen for the compost pile.”

The artistic compost piles have a serious, science-based task, but also create “whimsical, playful” shapes in the garden, she said. “We have some nice examples, and it’s a good demonstration, which is what we are all about at master gardeners. It’s an invitation to be creative in the garden in a new way.”

Visit the Discovery Garden, which is open to the public daily from dawn until dusk, to see examples of a variety of composting options:

• The creative compost structures made of branches, twigs, vines, and stumps can be found in Naturescape, the Children’s Garden, and the Meadow.
• The main, centralized compost station features a series of bins where master gardeners separate branches and green material, which is chopped into smaller pieces to expedite organic breakdown. Interpretive signs provide information, and master gardener volunteers are often on hand on Tuesday mornings from March through October to explain the process.
• A few small, classic wire enclosures are tucked into individual gardens, including one along the path in the Fall/Winter garden with explanatory signage that showcases the different colors of the layers of compost as it breaks down, with the dark mulch at the bottom and the latest additions on top.

Resources:

Resources readily available about how to get started with home composting; the benefits, different methods (including hot and cold), and storage structures include:

• Skagit County Public Works Solid Waste Division’s Home Composting
• University of Maryland: How to Make Compost at Home: 
• University of Minnesota Extension’s Composting in Home Gardens.
• Washington State University Extension’s Home Garden Series: Backyard Composting

References:

Cogger, C., Sullivan, D., and Bary, A. (2017) Backyard Composting. Washington State University Extension. Publication #EB1784E.

Rosen, C., Brown, D., Mugaas, R. and Halback, T. (2018) Composting in Home Gardens. University of Minnesota Extension.

Shell, L. (2020) How to Make Compost at Home. Based on HG 35 Backyard Composting. University of Maryland Extension

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
Kari Ranten is a retired journalist and health care communicator who became a certified Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener in 2024.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the Skagit County WSU Extension website.

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Post: October 17, 2025

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Conifers in the Homescape

Selecting and caring for conifers will provide year-round beauty and function

By Alison Hitchcock, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Alison Hitchcock

Conifers make a valuable addition to any garden, providing a variety of landscape uses: hedging, windbreaks, ground covers, or specimen focal points. They provide year-round color, texture, and a range of appealing attributes. Once established, conifers require very little care, rarely need fertilizer, resist most insects and diseases, and pruning becomes an optional task.

The term conifer is derived from the Latin words “con” and “ferre, referring to the cone, and the term “to bear”. Broadleaved trees such as holly, laurel, or eucalyptus reproduce with flowers and fruits; conifers reproduce through cones. Both pollen (male) and seed (female) cones are formed; all are wind-fertilized. Most conifers are monecious (Greek, one house) with male and female cones occurring on the same tree, but several genera are diecious (two houses). The age at which a conifer bears cones varies, but it usually takes at least 10 years before cones appear. Maturation can vary from 1 to 3 years. Some dwarf varieties never develop cones.

Know & Grow Series:

Conifers in the Home Landscape

Free, no registration required
Listen to Master Gardener Alison Hitchcock speak on caring for conifers in the home garden. Alison Hitchcock has been a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener since 2001. Prior to retirement, she worked for the Department of Natural Resources as the Northwest Regional Silviculturist.

Tuesday, October 21, 2025 – 1 pm – 2:30 pm

NWREC Sakuma Auditorium, 16650 State Highway 536, Mount Vernon

While the majority of conifers are considered evergreen (foliage retained more than one growing season), there is a small group of conifers: larch, bald cypress, and dawn redwood that lose their needles every year, i.e., deciduous. Despite the term, conifers do not keep all their leaves indefinitely. Needles become less efficient as they age, accumulate surface debris, and receive lower levels of sunlight due to interior foliage. These unproductive leaves are shed over time, though the needle life span will vary by species. Pines rapidly shed needles every 3-4 years; spruce and fir needles turn yellow and drop gradually; yews turn yellow and drop in the late spring or early summer of their third year. Sequoias, redwoods, and arborvitae shed small branchlets. We witness the flagging of western red cedar each autumn as older foliage dies.

Tree and Site Selection
When selecting a conifer, there are several things to consider: function, size and space needs, sunlight, and soil needs. Numerous cultivars of all shapes and sizes are available from local nurseries and garden centers to meet the needs of your garden design.

A cultivar represents a deviation from normal characteristics common to a species. Though some cultivars are the result of human hybridization, most cultivars arise from mutations that give rise to dwarf and giant forms, variegated foliage, weeping, and prostate habits. If the unique traits are maintained over multiple generations, plant biologists can give a cultivar a new name and propagate it through grafts and cuttings.

When selecting a conifer, one must anticipate the tree’s mature size and space needs. The American Conifer Society has established four size categories for conifers: Miniature, Dwarf, Intermediate, and Large, to aid in landscape design. Once established, growth may vary slightly due to local environmental conditions, but registered cultivars should maintain their described size. It is essential to note that any conifer will continue to increase in size at the stated rate beyond 10 years. If your tree becomes too large, corrective measures are limited to perpetual pruning, relocation, or removal. In most cases, severe pruning will destroy the conifer’s natural charm, although some plants may recover over time. Often, removing and replacing a large tree is easier, although removal can be costly.

Shade and soil conditions can be particularly important when selecting the right conifer. Shade-tolerant species are able to thrive and reproduce under low light levels, while intolerant species require full sunlight and little or no competition. Most conifers prefer full sun and evenly moist, well-drained, neutral to acid soil. The few species that tolerate wet soils include Atlantic white cedar, dawn redwood, and some spruces. Drought-tolerant species include juniper, cypress, and pine.

Pruning and Shearing
The pruning needs of conifers are minimal if plants are chosen to fit their allotted space. Always prune a conifer for a particular purpose: removal of diseased or dead wood, control of size, and control of shape. Though the techniques sound similar, there are essential differences between pruning and shearing. Pruning refers to the selective removal of branches for the health and proper size of a plant. Shearing removes foliage to create a uniform surface or shape without regard to branch structure. Pruning cuts encourage growth throughout the plant, while shearing is generally limited to the current year’s growth.

Pruning of Douglas fir leader. Developing Quality Christmas Trees in the Pacific Northwest © Oregon State University Extension | Chad Landgren

Pruning Whorl-branched Conifers
(Douglas fir, spruce, true fir, true cedar, pine)

Whorl-branched trees will not form new buds on old wood, so do not cut back to the brown, aged stems. To control height or branch length, always cut back to a side branch or dormant bud. Pruning the outermost branch tips back to a bud will also encourage fullness. For a formal shape, shear in summer after new growth has expanded but before new buds form in the fall. To replace a lost leader, support the uppermost lateral branch to a vertical position with a splint and remove after one growing season.

Unlike other whorl-branched conifers, a pine’s current year’s shoots (candles) should be pruned in late spring. To slow growth or produce a more compact shape, pinch one-third to one-half of each candle; to maintain size, remove most of each candle. Shearing is not recommended for pines.

Pruning Random-Branched Conifers
(Juniper, Arborvitae, Chamaecyparis, yew, hemlock)

Pruning to maintain shape is best done in early spring so that new growth covers the cut ends. Snip branch tips back lightly. Hand pruning rather than shearing creates a more natural shape, but plants can be sheared in early summer once the tree stops growing.

Sheered topiary Photo David McElwee | Pexels.com

Yew and hemlock are exceptions to most conifers in that new growth will develop on old wood, and they are forgiving of poor pruning and very suitable for hedging. To maintain size, prune in late winter or early spring before new growth begins. Avoid trimming the tops of hedges until the desired height has been reached. If shaping for fullness or a formal hedge, lightly trim back the outermost new growth using hand pruners or hedge shears. Shearing of new growth can continue into early summer.

Incorporating conifers into your garden design not only enhances visual interest but also promotes a resilient landscape with minimal upkeep. By carefully considering their size, light, and soil requirements these remarkable plants can thrive in your garden. Whether used as hedges, focal points, or ground covers, conifers will provide lasting beauty and functionality to your outdoor space. 

When to prune or shear is mainly dependent on conifer branching patterns, either whorl-branched or random-branched. Whorl-branched (determinate) conifers put on one flush of growth each spring. Buds at the tips of the tree flush in the spring, elongate until sometime in July, and then set new buds in the fall for the following spring. Random-branched (indeterminate) conifers produce new growth from buds at the tips of the branches and from dormant buds further back on the stem than the whorled-branched species. The result is that random-branched conifers can be cut back more severely and still produce new growth.

General guidelines for pruning:

• Remove dead, diseased, or broken branches anytime.
• Prune all conifers, except pine, before new growth starts in the spring or during the semi-dormant period in mid-summer after growth has stopped.
• If shearing, begin in late spring or early summer after new growth begins.
• Do not prune evergreens in late summer or early fall; new growth will not harden off and will be subject to winter injury.
• Do not prune into the inactive center because new branches will not form to conceal the stubs.
• For prostrate or open-grown trees, selectively prune individual branches rather than shearing the whole plant.

Resources and References:

American Conifer Society, accessed April 25, 2025, 

Welch, H., (1966) Dwarf Conifers – A Complete Guide. Charles T. Branford Company, Newton, Massachusetts

Landgren, C. (2025) Developing Quality Christmas Trees in the Pacific Northwest, Oregon State University Extension. 

Bird, R. (1994) Ornamental Conifers. Quintet Publishing Limited, London, UK.

Hartman, J., Pirone, T., and Sall, M. (2000) Pirone’s Tree Maintenance. 2000. Oxford University Press, New York, NY.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
Alison Hitchcock has been a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener since 2001. Prior to retirement, Alison worked for the Department of Natural Resources as the Northwest Regional Silviculturist.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the Skagit County WSU Extension website.

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Post: October 3, 2025

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Getting Your Garden Ready for Winter and Beyond

A fall checklist to prepare for next season’s success

 
Diana Wisen

By Diana Wisen, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

It’s been a lovely summer for gardening and your landscape may still be going strong, but the soggy, overcast days will soon be here. One late October morning you will wake up and your glorious dahlias are a black slimy mess, signaling our first frost occurred overnight. In our area, the first frost usually occurs around Halloween. With this, our dry summer and fall weather will come to a close, opening the door to November, often the rainiest month of the year here.

With the first frost most likely less than a month away, there is much you can and should do in your garden this time of year.

1. Assess Your Entire Landscape and Make Notes

Take a cup of coffee or tea and your camera and walk around your yard. (This is not the time for wine.) Ask yourself what is doing well? What do I like? What is not doing well? What don’t I like? What’s okay but could be better? What am I tired of? Is there anything I want more of such as color, shade, flowers, or that I want less of? What needs significant maintenance, pruning or removing? Think about rejuvenation, renovation, or no changes. Just seasonal maintenance? Don’t put them off. Now is the time to start dealing with your ideas.

2. Fall is a Good Time to Plant

Plant more flowering spring bulbs. Next spring you will be so glad you did. And most will naturalize and multiply over the years. If you have a deer or squirrel problem you will want to take precautions to protect some kinds of bulbs. This is the best time of year to plant perennials, shrubs, and trees. The ground is still warm enough for the roots to begin to grow. It may take at least a year or two for the roots of shrubs and trees to become fully established, which means they are able to take up enough water and nutrients to sustain the shrub or tree. When planting, dig a wide shallow hole. Set the plant in at the same level as the soil around the trunk (or a little higher). Refill the hole with the same soil you dug out. Water well to settle it in. Water regularly for the next year or two. Mulch with arborist chips about three-inches deep but not touching the stem or trunk.

3. Weed. Weed. Weed!

Pacific Northwest weeds are super survivors. That’s one reason they are weeds. Many tend to grow year around and set thousands of seeds that can last for years. The cool season weeds such as shot weed (aka hairy bittercress) are beginning to germinate and the summer weeds are still going strong. Dig out weeds while they are small, before they flower, and especially before they set seed. This is particularly true for the vegetable and annual flower beds. If not tended, weeds can overpower next year’s crops before they can get established.

4. Mulch

There are several reasons to mulch. It helps keep soil moisture stable, and prevent erosion and soil compaction. It thwarts weed seeds already in the soil from germinating. Using a plant-based mulch such as arborist chips or compost slowly adds organic matter and nutrients to the soil and can make the landscape look attractive. Wait until there have been some thorough rains before putting down the chips. Save your homemade compost to put around your perennials and roses to slowly feed them over the winter. Some bagged or commercial compost may have very little nutrient content (read the labels!) and is best used as soil cover or conditioner.

5. Help Your Soil

A wide variety of soil types and conditions can be found throughout Skagit County. Before amending your soil, have your soil tested. Without knowing what your soil needs, additives could be wasteful, harmful, and expensive, as well as just not needed. Local native soil tends to be on the acidic side with sufficient levels of phosphorus. Too much phosphorus actually causes problems. Adding organic matter such as homemade compost is a good way to enrich the soil. You do not need to add a lot-2-5% compost by volume is sufficient. Rain will leach out the nitrogen, so wait until spring to put it on your vegetable area.

Place interesting wire towers throughout your garden to make easy disposal of leaves for composting over winter. © Skagit County Master Gardeners

6. “Leave the Leaves”

As you cut back plants at the end of the season, leave the stems and leaves in place on the ground. By doing so, you are providing food for soil microorganisms, which is the beginning of the food web. They in turn provide food for insects that become food for birds and other small creatures.

As you clean up the garden, you may find diseased plant materials. Do not leave this in the garden or put it in your compost bin or pile. Put diseased plant stems and leaves in your garbage or commercial yard waste bin. Disease spores and microorganisms will overwinter in the soil or in a home compost pile. Pick up dropped and rotting fruit from under trees and handle the same way.

If you have an abundance of leaves in the yard, you can pack the slightly damp deciduous leaves into large black plastic bags and let them sit for a year or two. They make leaf mold, often called “black gold” by gardeners because of its excellent compost quality. For more info on improving your soil’s health see > Master Gardener Soil Health Tips

Know & Grow: Conifers in the Home Landscape

Free, no registration required
Listen to Master Gardener Alison Hitchcock speak on caring for conifers in the home garden. Alison Hitchcock has been a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener since 2001. Prior to retirement, she worked for the Department of Natural Resources as the Northwest Regional Silviculturist.

Tuesday, October 21, 2025 – 1 pm – 2:30 pm

NWREC Sakuma Auditorium
16650 State Highway 536, Mount Vernon

7. Pruning
Generally fall is not a good time to prune except for the 4 D’s–Prune out the dead, the diseased, the damaged, and the dys-functional (or deranged?) anytime of the year. However, pruning healthy plant material in the fall tends to encourage new growth, which you do not want during the colder months ahead. Tender new growth is much more susceptible to cold and wind damage. Pruning now might also cut off the flower buds of next spring’s flowering shrubs. If in doubt about when to prune flowering shrubs, a good rule is to prune right after a plant has bloomed, and not yet set next year’s flower buds. Roses are best pruned in late March, though you can cut back a bit the tall floppy canes of grandifloras now.
8. Lawn Care
Fall is also the best time to fertilize a lawn. Always read and follow the directions on the bag. Don’t use a Weed ‘n Feed until absolutely needed. A few weeds in a lawn are fine and can be dug out with a kitchen or Hori Hori garden knife if they bother you. Some people even plant crocus in their lawn for spring blooming.
9. Winter is Knocking
Water. Before you unhook your hoses make sure those big shrubs under eaves or large trees are well-watered. Rain may not reach their roots. Shallow rooted big rhododendrons can get quite thirsty in the fall.

Bring in tender plants and containers. Plants in containers could freeze and die because their roots are above ground.

Dig and store summer blooming bulbs, or take your chances on their survival.

Wrap arborvitae hedges with plastic deer fencing if you expect to get heavy snow. If you think a shrub or tree may have died during the winter, wait until June to dig it out. It may come back, just slower. Scrape and test for green tissue to see if it is still alive lower down.

10. Take Care of Your Tools and Equipment
Good, high-quality tools make gardening easier and more productive. We often have more than one pair of shears or shovel, using different sizes for different tasks and users. Take the time to clean and sharpen them. A freshly sharpened shovel or hoe is so much easier to use. Sharp pruning shears and loppers make it fun to prune. Do not use bleach as it corrodes the metal. Read our blog post on Tool Care and Maintenance
11. Refresh a Container for Seasonal Interest.
Stick some branch greens in a bucket or vase and put in a container. Add some seasonal plant material such as berries, pansies, leaves, colorful branches, pumpkins, or whatever you have in your yard. Do one for your front door and your back door. You deserve to look at nature’s beauty every day.

Have more fall plant or gardening questions? WSU Skagit County Master Gardeners are here for you. Plant clinics in Burlington and Anacortes are staffed through October. Check the Master Gardener Plant Clinic Hours. Throughout the year you can submit a plant problem or question. Or leave a phone message at 360-395-2368, or send an email to askamastergardener@skagitmg.org

RESOURCES AND REFERENCES :

Pacific Northwest Gardener’s Handbook: Growing for the Future. Washington State University Extension, Pullman, Washington. (Rev. 2025)

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
Diana Wisen has been a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener since 1991 and is the coordinator of the Hardy Fuchsia Garden at the Discovery Garden on SR 536 in Mount Vernon. Diana is a member of the master gardener training team each year, teaching on a variety of topics including tool maintenance, managing slugs and snails, and weed identification.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website.

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Post: September 19, 2025

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The Joys of a Cut Flower Garden

How to plan, grow, and protect a wide variety of beautiful blooms

Editor’s Note: Author Karen Bruce is passionate about growing a cut flower garden. Over the past ten years, she has honed her skills and enlarged her Camano Island garden to be able to cut 100 – 150 blooms each week for events and giving to others. Like so many cut flower gardeners, she is grateful for the beauty of the flowers blooming and the joy she finds in sharing the results of her passion with others.

By Karen Bruce, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

 
Karen Bruce

A cut flower garden brings not only colorful flowers throughout the growing season, but also bees, butterflies, hummingbirds and other beneficial visitors that come to enjoy the blooms. Gardening in general can teach us lessons if we pay attention. A cut flower garden’s lessons are vibrant in color and design. Planning a cutting garden begins in the fall with an assessment of this year’s garden and gathering seeds for next season.

The cut flower garden can consist of both annuals and perennials. Annuals grow and bloom for one year (occasionally they can overwinter but typically do not). Annuals can be planted from seed (most economical) or with starts or plugs from your local nursery, online sources, or the Master Gardener Plant Fair! Examples of annuals are sunflowers, zinnias, lisianthus, snapdragons, statice, Queen Anne’s lace, stock, and amaranthus.

‘Chantilly Bronze’ and ‘Madame Butterfly Bronze’ snapdragons © Photo: Karen Bruce

‘Love-lies-bleeding’ Amaranth and ‘Green Tails’ Amaranth © Photo: Karen Bruce

Perennials come back year after year; their initial investment is higher, but they will produce flowers that can be cut for many years. Examples of perennials that grow each year are alstroemerias, hydrangeas, hypericum berries, peonies, weigela, and astilbe.

Bulbs, tubers, and corms, if properly cared for, will come back each year. Examples of these are daffodils, tulips, anemones, ranunculus, lilies, gladiolas, and dahlias.

‘Bracken Sarah’ dahlia © Photo: Karen Bruce

Floral arrangement with lilies, dahlias, peach hypericum berries, apricot alstroemeria, ‘Spring Bouquet’ viburnum greenery © Photo: Karen Bruce
So you want to start a cutting garden of your own.
Things to consider when deciding what and how much to purchase:

• Why are you growing cut flowers? Is it for personal enjoyment? Are you creating bouquets and arrangements for special events such as weddings or memorial services? Are you growing to sell your flower bouquets at a farmer’s market or other venue?
• Are you are growing flowers for a special event next year? What colors, varieties and how many stems do you need? Consider the event date and which flowers will be in bloom at that time.
• What is your budget? Seeds can be purchased for as low as $4 to $6 per packet. Established plants will cost more but may be more predictable.
• How much space do you have? Will you incorporate the plantings into an existing garden? Are you going to create raised beds to grow your plants? Do you have a fenced area to protect your plants from deer or other critters?
• Do you have a greenhouse or area to start seeds, or do you need to purchase seeds that can be directly sown into your garden space?
• How much time and energy will you have to devote to your cutting garden?
  • Do you have the several months of time it takes to tend the growing seedlings?
  • Will you be around to take care of your plants, or do you have extensive travel plans?
  • Do you have adequate watering available?

Answers to these questions and your goals for your flower garden will help you plan for the season ahead.

Bells of Ireland © Photo: Karen Bruce

Peach Hypericum berry bush © Photo: Karen Bruce

Hops plant growing in garden. © Photo: Karen Bruce

There are many books available that can provide you with information about flowers you can grow to create beautiful cut bouquets. It is a good idea to look for an author who lives in your general growing area who will have an idea of what grows well in your gardening zone. A local favorite is Floret Farm’s Cut Flower Garden: Grow, Harvest, and Arrange Stunning Seasonal Blooms by Erin Benzakein, a well-known flower farmer and writer. Benzakein’s flower farm is located right here in Skagit Valley, and her New York Times best-selling book provides information on all types of flowers, along with photos of each flower. She also covers topics such as soil, tools, and techniques for seed starting and caring for your flowers once they have been harvested.

This Month in Your Garden

– September –

• Prune bamboo culms to thin your bamboo. Prune older (without sheaths), leaning, or damaged culms and cut them close to the ground. Prune any culms encroaching into an undesired area, and don’t forget root pruning to contain your grove.
• Stop dead-heading your roses and allow them to begin developing rose hips. The shortening hours of sunlight, along with allowing the rose hips to develop, lets the rose bush know it has done its job of making seed and can now prepare for dormancy. Remove wilted petals and any leaves with black spot, rust or mildew to keep any developing fungus away from plant.
• Deadhead perennials that self-seed, such as calla lilies, Shasta daisy, and crocosmia to prevent propagation.

Planning for next year’s cutting garden begins in the fall with the process of journaling and collecting pictures of what was successful, then making lists and ordering seeds, bulbs, tubers, corms, and plant starts and plugs.

In looking back at May/June, some favorite flowers were:

• Sweet peas
• Peonies – all colors
• Lilies
• Ranunculus – ‘Champagne’ and ‘Chamallow’

In assessing the July/August flower gardens, some current standouts this year are:

• Dahlias – Peach/coral and blush colors such as ‘Café au Lait’, ‘Sweet Nathalie’, ‘Castle Drive’, ‘Clearview Peachy’, ‘Nicholas’, ‘Ferncliff Copper’, and ‘Breakout’ are beautiful for event bouquets
• Snapdragons – This year, favorites are the ‘Madame Butterfly’ bronze/white and the ‘Chantilly’ pink snapdragons.
• Bells of Ireland
• Zinnias – The ‘Queeny’ series and ‘Benary’s Giant Mix’ provide big blooms in a variety of beautiful colors.
• Lisianthus – Because lisianthus can be challenging to start from seed, ordering plugs helps make growing them less anxiety producing. Farmer Bailey  is an online brokerage for starter plants and plugs for cut flower varieties suited to the United States. Here, lisianthus begin blooming in late August. If you want to try your hand at growing lisianthus from seed, check out our blog post Growing Lisianthus. 
• Alstroemerias
• Veronica
• Hypericum Berries – The peach hypericum (Hypericum inodorum ‘Kolmades’) or Magical® Desire St. John’s wort works well with other flowers from a cutting garden.

And don’t forget to have an ample supply of greenery to add to the look, color, and texture of an arrangement. These can include:

• Eucalyptus
• Viburnum ‘Spring Bouquet’
• Salal

October/November blooms will include chrysanthemums that are starting to form buds now. One of the first to bloom is a golden decorative chrysanthemum called ‘Honeyglow’.

Light pink lisianthus (or prairie gentian) © Photo: Karen Bruce

Floral arrangement with pink dogwood and mock orange © Photo: Karen Bruce
Every gardener benefits from reviewing and documenting successes and challenges.
To have continual blooms from June to October requires planning. Flower gardeners, such as myself, who grow flowers for events and sharing require 100 – 150 blooms per week. How is this possible you ask? Many flowers are cut-and-come-again. This means that you can cut from the plant, and new growth will provide additional flowers. For cut-and-come-again flowers to be successful, you must continually cut blooms from the plant and/or deadhead the ones that you do not use. Examples of cut-and-come-again flowers are dahlias, zinnias, cosmos, scabiosa, sweet peas, strawflower and statice.

Most cut flowers need to be planted in a sunny location with six to eight hours of sun per day. They also need to be watered on a consistent basis. A drip watering system saves time and avoids the need for much hand-watering. The consistency and deeper watering that comes from a drip system is helpful. Cut flowers also need regular fertilizing. Some years, annuals like snapdragons can survive our temperate winters. This past winter, many snapdragons survived, so that was an added success, providing many beautiful blooms earlier than usual in early May. As the snapdragons that overwintered finished blooming, the snapdragon seedlings started in the greenhouse provided new blooms later in the season.

Staking and plant supports are critical to protect flower stems from unexpected wind and rain storms.

Save the seeds of the flowers you like, this will increase your seed stock for next year at no additional cost. Some of the easiest seeds to save are sweet peas. After sweet peas are finished blooming, they form a pod that looks like a pea pod. When this pod turns brown and the outside feels like sandpaper, pick the pods and store them in a paper bag. If you open the pod, there will be several dark brown seeds per pod. Save these seeds to plant early next year. Other easy seeds to save are scabiosa, Bells of Ireland, Queen Anne’s lace, and zinnias. Be aware, some flowers, like zinnias are cross-pollinated and the seeds may result in a mix of colors and traits in the new plants. Learn more about seed saving at: Seed Saving 101

The greatest challenges to a cut flower garden tend to be deer, bunnies and slugs

If your property is situated next to the woods, you may have many resident deer. Gardeners protect their beloved flowers in various ways. The surest preventive measure is to build a fence around the areas devoted to flowers (and edibles.) For this gardener, a seven-foot-high fence was a good first start. Some gardeners even erect two parallel fences to thwart the most athletic deer. After discovering that the local deer do not seem to eat my dahlias, my dahlia beds are outside of the fence. Often, not all plants can be planted inside a fence, and scent-based repellents like Liquid Fence may also be helpful. Learn what deer like to eat and spray repellent around those plants about once a week (and after a rain) during the growing season. For more information see Washington State University fact sheet > Deer Damage

Know & Grow: Conifers in the Home Landscape

Free, no registration required
Listen to Master Gardener Alison Hitchcock speak on caring for conifers in the home garden. Alison Hitchcock has been a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener since 2001. Prior to retirement, she worked for the Department of Natural Resources as the Northwest Regional Silviculturist.
Tuesday, October 21, 2025
1 pm – 2:30 pm
Sakuma Auditorium – NWREC WSU
16650 WA-536, Mount Vernon, WA 98273

Rabbits can also be a problem and some years can be worse than others. Fencing can work, but only if the fencing material is buried 6-12 inches deep and stands at least 2 to 3 feet high. Chicken wire cages around plants are helpful but also must be buried like fencing. Applying a pet- and child-safe rabbit repellent, such as Liquid Fence, is helpful, though it may take several weeks of attention. It also helps to have a dog or cat roaming the property to chase them away. WSU’s Hortsense website offers more tips and methods for protecting plants from rabbits> Rabbits

Healthy slug and snail populations are ever-present in western Washington gardens. Sluggo and Sluggo Plus are organic iron phosphate products that can be your best friend. Neither is harmful to animals or children and have been the effective way to deal with slugs and snails when applied according to their label directions. Some gardeners manage slugs and snails with early morning or late evening garden checks, manually picking and disposing of them. For more information check out:

• Skagit Master Gardener Blog article: Midnight Marauders≥ Midnight Mauradors: Managing Slugs and Snails

As summer is winding down and fall approaches, I am thankful for the flower season and the joy it has provided, as the giver and to those receiving flowers this season. Start small if you have never grown flowers before. See what you like and keep track of what grows well in your space and microclimate. Flowers provide joy to many and you will not be disappointed!

RESOURCES AND REFERENCES :

Benzakein, E. (2017) Floret Farm’s Cut Flower Garden: Grow, Harvest, and Arrange Stunning Seasonal Blooms. Chronicle Books, San Francisco, CA.

Managing Slugs and Snails. Oregon State University Extension Service. 10-Minute University™. (2025). Oregon Master Gardener™ Association – Clackamas County Chapter in Cooperation with Oregon State University Extension Service University. 

Vertebrate: Deer Damage. Washington State University (WSU) College of Agricultural, Human, and Natural Resource Sciences (CAHNRS). (2025). WSU Extension Hortsense Fact Sheet. 

Vertebrate: Rabbits. WSU. CAHNRS. (2025). WSU Extension Hortsense Fact Sheet.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
Karen Bruce has been a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener since 2019. She is co-manager of the Cottage Garden at the Discovery Garden on SR 536, west of Mount Vernon.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Post: September 6, 2025

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Gearing Up for Garlic Planting Season ~

A Few Tips to Ensure a Successful Harvest Next Year

By Laura Kuhn, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Author: Laura Kuhn

As our long days of summer wane, now is the time to consider if garlic is a contender for your garden space. For many Pacific Northwest gardeners, garlic (Allium sativum) is a staple crop. Washington state is well known for its commercial garlic production as the climate is suitable for growing a variety of garlic types. And, thankfully, garlic is simple to grow, easy to harvest, and stores for many months.

For those gardeners who want to have more information about growing garlic, many online sources accurately capture information about the types of garlic, planting methods, and related information. The Washington State University Extension fact sheet (# FS162E) Vegetables: Growing Garlic in Home Gardens discusses types of garlic, planting sites, pest management, common problems, as well as tips for harvesting and storage. To supplement the information found in this free fact sheet, here we will focus on specific tips related to local sources for buying garlic for planting, selecting where to plant, and preparing your beds for planting.

The WSU Extension fact sheet discusses types of garlic, planting sites, pest management, common problems, as well as tips for harvesting and storage.

A single row of garlic in a raised bed. Photo © Laura Kuhn
Sourcing Garlic to Plant –
Local sources for finding quality garlic to grow in your garden

When shopping for garlic seed, you will notice a distinct difference between the garlic you see in the grocery store and that sold for planting-namely, the price. Garlic seed is more expensive than culinary garlic. Many home gardeners are tempted to plant culinary garlic for this reason; however, this is not recommended. Culinary garlic can introduce disease into your garden. Grocery store garlic typically lacks much information, if any, on where it is from, the variety of garlic that it is, and therefore its suitability for planting in your climate. Purchasing garlic seed allows you to know all these things, which helps to ensure the most successful harvest next year.

“Seed garlic” is for planting and sells by weight as full bulbs. An individual “seed” is what chefs refer to as a clove. Once planted, a clove or seed will grow into a bulb of garlic, which has multiple cloves. Many online sources sell garlic in the early summer for shipment in the late summer or early fall, depending on the climate zone and the type of garlic you buy. There are several sources for garlic seed online right here in Washington. Online pre-sales often lead to sold-out stock by planting time. The good news is that even if your favorite online seed source sells out, there are locally sourced garlic seeds to plant.

A harvest of Music hardneck garlic. Photo © Laura Kuhn

Two bulbs of garlic, same variety. Plant the seed from the larger bulb on the left. The larger the seed garlic, the larger the resulting bulb. Photo © Laura Kuhn

The top sources include your local co-operative markets, garden centers, farmers market, or gardening enthusiasts you already know. When shopping at your farmers markets, ask about the garlic they sell, where they grew it, and the qualities of the varieties they carry. Talk to staff at the co-operative or garden centers, and ask the same questions. A final and often overlooked source is your gardening community or neighbors who already have a stash of garlic seed ready to plant from this summer’s harvest.

The biggest consideration in selecting varieties (besides compatibility with your growing conditions) is to ask yourself how you plan to use the garlic. This question helps you refine your choices and determine whether to choose hardneck or softneck garlic. Another consideration is the level of garlic flavor or spiciness. The mildest form of “garlic” is known as elephant garlic, which is an onion. This type produces exceptionally large cloves in a huge bulb.

The Pacific Northwest is particularly suited to growing hardneck varieties that generate a tasty scape in June. (A scape is the flower stalk of the garlic). If removed when the flower head points downward, the plant will focus on bulb development, making for a larger bulb. Scapes are also tasty to eat and can enhance any culinary dishes that call for a garlic flavor. Hardneck varieties also have large cloves that are easy to clean and use for cooking. Softneck garlic is a crop that produces smaller cloves without a scape. Softnecks offer a longer storage life and the potential for creating a garlic braid.

A final word on selecting your garlic-bigger is better. When picking amongst various garlic bulbs, select the largest bulbs you can find. The larger the garlic seed planted, the larger the bulb it will produce. Larger cloves of garlic are easy to peel and use in recipes.

Garlic seed or cloves. Top Row (left to right): Hardneck elephant garlic; Magic, Georgian Fire, German Porcelain, Blanak, Chinese Red/White, and Vincent. Bottom Row (left to right): Softneck; Sicilian, Inchellium Red, Messidor. Photo © Laura Kuhn

Selecting and Preparing Garden Beds for Garlic
Once you are ready to grow garlic, September and October are the best months to prepare the beds. Select a spot that will receive full sun (minimum of 6-8 hours a day) and has good drainage (too much moisture and the seed will rot).

Alliums are a crop that requires rotation to reduce the potential for problems like rust. Onions, leeks, or garlic should not be planted in the same location for three years. Rotating crops can avoid certain diseases and viruses that linger in your soil. Rust (Puccinia allii) is a problem particular to the Pacific Northwest, where higher rates of humidity are present. Rotating crop locations helps to alleviate the problem; however, other tactics can be used in combination with rotation.

Spacing of seed is typically four to six inches, with a minimum of 12 inches between planting rows. Spacing out your garlic seed to increase air flow can help, so use the widest spacing possible. Using a single row of garlic as a border around a planting bed can allow for interplanting other crops. When it comes time to harvest your garlic in July, pulling the garlic will not affect the plants nearby. If you end up doing multiple rows of garlic in one area, wider spacing (such as 18 or more inches) will improve air flow. Given the high amount of precipitation in our area, it may be impossible to avoid rust altogether. Rust certainly looks bad, but it does not affect the garlic crop itself. When removing the stalks after harvest, be careful not to spread rust spores.

This Month in Your Garden

– September –

• Prune bamboo culms to thin your bamboo. Prune older (without sheaths), leaning, or damaged culms and cut them close to the ground. Prune any culms encroaching into an undesired area, and don’t forget root pruning to contain your grove.
• Stop dead-heading your roses and allow them to begin developing rose hips. The shortening hours of sunlight, along with allowing the rose hips to develop, lets the rose bush know it has done its job of making seed and can now prepare for dormancy. Remove wilted petals and any leaves with black spot, rust or mildew to keep any developing fungus away from plant.
• Deadhead perennials that self-seed, such as calla lilies, Shasta daisy, and crocosmia to prevent propagation.

Garlic is a root crop that grows underground, and like all alliums, is a heavy feeder. Preparing your beds to create workable soil supplemented with organic matter takes a bit of work. Root crops require the soil to be loose to allow for bulb formation. Working compost into the soil helps loosen the soil and adds nutrients.

Local sources of compost include your local garden and landscape supply centers. Using organic compost is particularly important for garden beds that will grow plants that you will eat. Since your garlic will grow through winter, mulching your beds to protect from erosion is important to retain topsoil. If you mulch with compost after planting, remember to consider this in the overall depth of seed planting.

A recently cured harvest of garlic, graded by size. Next year’s crop will come from the bulbs on the left because they are larger. Photo © Laura Kuhn

Garlic infected with rust. Photo © Laura Kuhn

A cost-effective way to promote soil health and nutrition is to add composted manure to your beds. Using bagged organic compost from a garden center is costly unless you can generate your own. If not, look for a local farmer in your area who can provide a responsible and clean source of composted manure. Ask about the use of herbicides and pesticides before taking home any farm products to ensure you do not add unwanted chemicals to your soil. Work the compost into the top six inches of soil to create the perfect environment for planting your garlic seed. You can mulch with composted manure as well.

Locally sourced, clean composted manure from Valleyview Farm Stand near Big Lake, WA. Photo courtesy: Linda Lanting, Valleyview Farmstand

Once your beds are ready, plant your seed and add your mulch. The best time to plant is in late October, but earlier and later can work, or even planting in the spring. Spring garlic will be much smaller in size than fall-planted garlic. You will get to see your garlic tops come up in early spring for a spectacular harvest come summertime. Adding garlic to your collection or trying new varieties can spark some great culinary experiences next year.

Know & Grow: Houseplants

Free, no registration required
Come hear local houseplant expert Lily Hirdler speak on how to keep your houseplants in tip-top condition.
Tuesday, September 16, 2025
1 pm – 2:30 pm
NWREC Sakuma Auditorium
16650 State Highway 536, Mount Vernon

New Certificate Programs in Skagit County

Washington Gardener Certificate Program is designed to provide comprehensive research-based horticulture and environmental stewardship education. This option is ideal for individuals seeking to enhance their gardening skills without the commitment of volunteering. This self-paced, online-only course provides a certificate upon successful completion. Registration deadline: Sept. 30, 2025. For more information, go to Washington Green School.

Climate Stewards Certificate Program is a collaborative, multi-institutional group working across disciplines to promote climate awareness, education, and action. Registration deadline: Sept. 16, 2025. Learn more about the Skagit Climate Steward Program. 

RESOURCES AND REFERENCES :

Martini, N. (2025) Vegetables: Growing Garlic in Home Gardens. WSU Extension Fact Sheet #FS162E

Hodges, L. (2013) Garlic Production in the Home Garden. University of Nebraska-Lincoln, Extension Publication G2221

Page-Mann, P. (2019) Six Mistakes to Avoid When Planting Garlic and Shallots. Cornell University, College of Agriculture and Life Sciences, Small Farms Quarterly, October 2019

Garlic (allium sativum) Rust. Oregon State University, Pacific Northwest Pest Management website.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
Laura is new to the Skagit Valley but has more than 30 years of experience growing in coastal, inland valley, and desert climates. She had fun trying to grow herbs while traveling full-time in an RV. Laura is a 2023 graduate of the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener program.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Post: August 15, 2025

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Let’s Talk About IPM – Integrated Pest Management

Thoughtful pest management methods protect pollinators and your plants

By Deborah Smeltzer, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Deborah Smeltzer

You are not sure what is wrong with your plant. You are fairly certain it does not look normal and is not growing as it should. You ask, “Am I watering it enough? Am I watering it too much? Does it have a disease? Is some kind of pest causing damage? If so, what should I do? Is there a pesticide that would solve this problem?”

Many of us who garden today would like to create a climate-resilient garden by optimizing soil health, managing our plant selection, determining the best methods for how and when we water, and knowing when it is appropriate and safe to use chemicals. One of the first steps to enhancing sustainability in our gardens is to understand the principles and strategies of Integrated Pest Management, or IPM.

Definition of IPM
“Integrated pest management is an environmentally friendly and common-sense approach to managing insects, diseases, weeds, and other pests of landscapes and gardens by using all the various tools available to gardeners, starting with their skills of observation.”¹

IPM helps gardeners to undertake a variety of control methods when needed. These include prevention and cultural, mechanical, biological, and chemical methods. Thoughtful choice of the tools in this toolbox helps us to optimize the health of the plant and the sustainability of our garden. Think about pest control as addressing not just herbivore pests such as insects, slugs, and vertebrates, but also weeds and diseases. Weeds outcompete plants for nutrients. Preventing the presence of weeds or removing them when they are small is a great example of IPM. Incorporating IPM into our garden management is a way to apply a more holistic approach to solving our plant problems.

When we train new master gardener volunteers, we talk about IPM as a common sense approach that uses science, plant health, our skills, patience, and tolerance to manage plant problems.² We know that if we can better understand the biology of the pest, we can make better decisions about how and when to manage our activities to address pest problems.

Please remember that happy, healthy plants are much less likely to need pest control!

Cabbage moths are a pest which lays eggs on all cruciferous vegetables (broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower); the larva/worm chews the plants. © Photographer: Russ Ottens | Bugwood.org

Floating row covers such as Reemay®, controls cabbage moths by physically preventing them from reaching the plants to lay eggs. © Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners

How IPM Contributes to Plant Health Care

IPM is one component of a holistic system of plant health care that allows us to focus on healthy landscapes by being observant about our plants’ cultural needs, the likely pest problems they might encounter, and environmental problems that might be common in their microenvironment. By frequently monitoring our garden, we can be in a better position to observe those conditions that allow our plants to thrive or that might cause problems. Monitoring allows us to be on the lookout for emerging problems before they become too severe to be solved.

Gardeners who take the time and effort to understand the interplay between cultural practices, soil conditions, and growth requirements for specific plants will be in a better position to minimize the impact of adverse environmental conditions.

It is very important to know the garden’s ecosystem to connect the dots between cause and effect. Routine observations help to quickly address factors such as pests, disease, or weather-related damage that could affect our healthy plants. Also, we need to be sure to have a proper diagnosis of the plant problem BEFORE we decide on which IPM solution will be most effective. A successful outcome of our IPM approach will be the reduction of pest populations, not complete eradication.

One of the goals of IPM is to reduce pesticide usage in our landscapes. By looking at the whole picture of what is happening in our garden, we have the opportunity to reduce the use of pesticides by 50 to 90 percent and create a more sustainable environment.³ Many home gardeners use more chemicals than agricultural operations. By tolerating some damage, we can reduce the overuse of chemicals and ensure less toxicity to our environment.

IPM Strategies

Each form of control needs to be chosen at the proper time. This is another reason that monitoring is so important. There is no reason to undertake control if the pest has not yet emerged in the garden or is no longer present. The observant gardener will know when an insect pest’s eggs hatch relative to the timing of leaf emergence of that insect’s favorite host plant. Covering cruciferous crops with row covers after the cabbage moth has visited is too late to prevent damage. Many fungal diseases target blossoms or new growth and need to be addressed during a discrete seasonal window.

Collecting slugs off of plants and disposing of them is an example of IPM mechanical control. Using slug bait is an example of chemical control. More about managing slugs can be found at: skagitmg.org/managing_slugs_snails/ © Photographer: Christine Farrow

Disposing of tent caterpillar egg casings before they hatch rather than spraying is another example of a mechanical or physical IPM method that protects the surrounding ecosystem. Learn more at skagitmg.org/tent-caterpillars/ © Photographer: Virgene Link-New

Mechanical and Physical Control can be used to make the environment unfavorable for the pest to exist. This might include devices that block pest access to plants, such as physical barriers or tools for pest removal. Examples include:

• Fly swatter
• Netting – Reemay® for insect exclusion or bird netting
• Weeding (before seedheads appear!)
• Traps – for insects or rodents
• Disposal of slugs and snails early in the season
• Installation of wire mesh at the bottom of raised beds to deter voles

Cultural Control means the manipulation of the plant or the environment to change the conditions and reduce the likelihood of pest problems. It requires knowledge of the biology and behavior of both the plant and the pest. This approach includes the philosophy of “Right Plant, Right Place,” which refers to selecting plants appropriate for the area where they are planted to increase growing success and reduce plant stress. Plants that are stressed are more susceptible to diseases and invite pests. Some examples of cultural control are:

• Selecting plants with resistance to common pests
• Proper planting techniques and dates
• Crop rotation
• Pruning
• Site condition management, such as the use of water and mulch

This Month in Your Garden

– Early to Mid-August –

• Fertilize roses once more before before allowing them to go dormant.
• Harvest garlic when the lower 1/3 of leaves turn brown.

– August – September –

• Prune bamboo culms to thin your bamboo. Prune older (without sheaths), leaning, or damaged culms and cut them close to the ground.  Prune any culms encroaching into an undesired area, and don’t forget root pruning to contain your grove.
• Deadhead perennials that self-seed, such as calla lilies, Shasta daisy, and crocosmia to prevent propagation.
• Harvest onions and shallots when the necks become soft and the tops fall over.

Biological Control is when other living organisms are used to control pest organisms. A few examples are:

• Release of lady beetles to control aphids
• Using herbivores like goats to control weeds 

Chemical Control is when pesticides are used to control pests and should be the control method chosen only when other options are not available. Pesticides are regulated and have detailed labels and instructions that need to be followed. Be sure to choose a chemical that is the least hazardous to the environment. Several key factors are important before choosing a chemical control. In most cases, the pest needs to be active. In addition, pollinators that are vital to plant health and food production need to be protected, as well as their water sources. Many insecticides will also harm beneficial insects, so it is key to READ THE LABEL and also be willing to tolerate some damage.

In summary, IPM is a science-based approach to gardening that enhances the sustainability of our gardens. “The approach is straightforward: identify the pest, assess its severity, determine its life stage, consider the site’s conditions, weigh risks and benefits, select a management strategy, and take action (or choose not to) with safety and environmental responsibility in mind.”⁵ Frequent observation and monitoring, along with concise diagnosis of plant problems and selecting appropriate preventive and control measures, can help us achieve a healthy, happy planet.

Know & Grow: The Allure of Dahlias
with Steve Lloyd

Free, no registration required
Come hear local expert, Steve Lloyd, the “Dahlia Doctor,” talk about mid- and late-season care, plus the winter care options for these stop-you-in-your-tracks plants.

Tuesday, August 19, 2025
1 pm – 2:30 pm
NWREC Sakuma Auditorium
16650 State Highway 536, Mount Vernon

New Certificate Programs in Skagit County

Washington Gardener Certificate Program is designed to provide comprehensive research-based horticulture and environmental stewardship education. This option is ideal for individuals seeking to enhance their gardening skills without the commitment of volunteering. This self-paced, online-only course provides a certificate upon successful completion. Registration deadline: Sept. 30, 2025. For more information, go to https://skagitmg.org/home/green-school/

Climate Stewards Certificate Program is a collaborative, multi-institutional group working across disciplines to promote climate awareness, education, and action. Registration deadline: Sept. 16, 2025. Learn more about the program: https://extension.wsu.edu/skagit/skagit-climate-stewards/

REFERENCES AND RESOURCES:

1. Pacific Northwest Gardener’s Handbook. 2025. WSU Extension, Master Gardener Program. Chapter 21 [quotation is on page 21-3] Available at:
2. Pautzke, K. 2025. Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Training 2025, IPM slides.
3. Holmes, J.J. and Davidson,J.A. 1984. Integrated Pest Management for Arborists: Implementation of a Pilot Program. Journal of Arboriculture 10:65-70.
4. National Pesticide Information Center (NPIC)
5. Collman, S. 2025. Integrated Pest Management (IPM) is a Decision You Make. Summary of 2025 Advanced Education Conference lecture hosted by Master Gardener Foundation of Washington State.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Deborah Smeltzer is a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener (EMG), Class of 2012. She currently serves on the Skagit County Master Gardener Foundation board and as chair of the Skagit County WSU EMG Program Training Team. In 2020, Deborah was named Washington State Master Gardener of the Year by the Master Gardener Foundation of Washington State.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Posted August 1, 2025

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The Vital Role of Trees in Our Ecosystem and Well-Being

By Kathy Wolfe, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Kathy Wolfe

Imagine for a moment that you are in a woodland. Every shade of green, from the deepest emerald to the lightest celadon, is represented in the surrounding landscape. The air is filled with scents from tree oils and the earth: cedary bark, musty decaying wood, leafy freshness. Overhead boughs scratch and moan as the wind blows through the canopy. A squirrel scampers across the forest floor, and birds sing overhead. Your step slows. Your breath softens. This is the feeling the Japanese describe as “forest bathing.” Being in the company of trees is said to reduce stress, boost the immune system, and improve your overall feeling of well-being. This is but one benefit of having trees in our lives.

Humans have revered trees in religions and cultures throughout time. European Druids worshiped oak trees, believing them to be a connection between the earth and spiritual worlds. The Native American cultures often viewed trees as sacred and integral in their spiritual and cultural lives and as sentient community members that lived among them. African Baobabs are known as the “Tree of Life” and symbolize resilience and humility. Many Asian cultures have sacred trees, including the Bodhi tree, where Buddha is said to have achieved enlightenment, the Kalpavriksha in Hindu culture, which is believed to grant wishes, and the shinboku, which are often planted near shrines in Japan.

Used with permission © Crowell Photography

Used with permission © Crowell Photography

Science has proven the functional benefits of trees as well.
Here are some examples:

Removing pollutants from the atmosphere.
Tree leaves filter dangerous particulate matter that comes from burning fossil fuels by intercepting the particles on plant surfaces. Gaseous pollutants are absorbed through the leaf stomata, which are tiny pores on leaf surfaces. Gases like ozone, carbon monoxide, nitrogen dioxide, and sulfur dioxide can be diffused into the intercellular spaces within the leaf. Some can also be metabolized or broken down by plant enzymes.
Mitigating climate change by storing carbon.
Trees absorb carbon dioxide from the air through photosynthesis and store it in their wood during the lifetime of the tree, helping slow gas build up in our atmosphere. Using sunlight, trees convert carbon dioxide and water into sugars for energy and release oxygen as a byproduct. Older, larger trees store more carbon than young trees, making it important to conserve and protect old-growth forests as well as plant new trees.
Managing stormwater runoff and erosion.
Flash flooding can cause immeasurable damage to the earth. Trees can reduce storm runoff and capture it in underground water-holding aquifers, which, in turn, counter droughts. The water seeps through the trees’ natural filters over time, so the water supply is steadier and the rivers do not carry away the rainwater. Tree roots bind the soil to the earth and decrease the speed and intensity of the runoff. Leaves break the force of the wind and rain beating down from above. Trees filter sewage and farm chemicals, animal waste, and roadside spills, making it easier and cheaper to treat water before it enters your tap.

Interested in Becoming a Master Gardener?
Application Deadline: Friday, August 15, 2025

Check out the new program for master gardener learning through WSU’s Washington Green School. You’ll join a community of gardeners dedicated to protecting Washington’s environment and learn skills to garden responsibly in our changing climate. Learn practical techniques, connect with experts, and discover how your actions contribute to a healthier future for all.

For more information, go to Washington Green School. 

Apply to the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Program.

Reducing wind damage and saving energy.
Trees located on the windward side of a property reduce the drying effects on the soil and vegetation in the summer or during a drought. In winter, these windbreaks can reduce snow drifts and even lower heating bills in the depths of a cold, stormy spell.
Providing habitat for a diversity of life.
Trees are used for food, shelter, and reproduction sites for various species. Many animals also nest and rest in their branches, hunt and capture prey from their hidden perches, and provide them with shade and shelter from the weather. Once a tree matures, its fruits become a food source. And when they are dead and dying, these snags are used by birds and insects for nesting hollows and foraging stations. Decaying trees become softer as they age, as fungi, bacteria, and wood-boring insects eat and break down the wood. The softwood tissue offers an ideal place for many young trees to begin their initial growth and development. The deadwood from these nurse logs also serves as ground cover that reduces soil erosion and prevents larger animals like deer from over-browsing plant seedlings. 
Shade and noise control.
Tree shade acts like a natural air conditioner that can keep down energy costs as well as making us more comfortable. Trees are planted to muffle urban noise from freeways and airports, and are almost as effective as concrete walls for this purpose. And much more pleasant to look at!

These are but a few examples of the majesty of trees in our environment. If you think that humans could live without them, think again. Now go out and give your favorite tree a big hug!

Know & Grow: Dahlias

Free, no registration required
Tuesday, August 19, 2025
1 pm – 2:30 pm
Sakuma Auditorium at NWREC
16650 State Highway 536, Mount Vernon

Visit the Skagit County Master Gardener Booth at the Fair

Exhibits Building “D”
Thurs. – Sun., Aug. 7 – 10, 2025
– Mystery Boxes where kids of all ages can explore nature by touch 
– Plants for firewise gardening
– Learn about building healthy soils for healthy plants

REFERENCES AND RESOURCES:

Bradford, N. (2016) The Many Benefits of Trees. National Environmental Education Foundation  (NEEF)

6 Ways Trees Benefit All of Us. (2020) The Nature Conservancy.

How Trees Make a Difference. National Wildlife Federation.

9 Reasons to Plant a Tree. (2018) Arbor Day Foundation.

Nix, S. (Rev. 2021) Reasons Living Trees are Valuable, Treehugger.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Kathy Wolfe has been a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener since 2002. She is co-manager of the vegetable garden at the Discovery Garden on SR 536 west of Mount Vernon.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Attracting Pollinators to the Home Garden

Making the right plant selections will help draw pollinators to the home garden

Posted July 18, 2025

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By Kari Ranten, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Kari Ranten

Pollinators are the heroes in our landscape and food chain. The small but mighty bees, hummingbirds, butterflies, and other birds and beneficial insects are key to crop production and creating a diverse environment. The home gardener often sets out to create a pollinator-friendly landscape and quickly discovers how enjoyable it is to watch these pollinators in the garden.

Proper plant selection and placement is key to luring vital pollinators to the home garden.

Scientific research emphasizes the importance of pollinators, crediting them with the reproduction of 90 percent of flowering plants and one-third of human food crops. “Each of us depends on these industrious pollinators in a practical way to provide us with the wide range of foods we eat. In addition, pollinators are part of the intricate web that supports the biological diversity in natural ecosystems that helps sustain our quality of life,” say the authors of Selecting Plants for Pollinators.

“Without bees, there would be no apples, pumpkins, strawberries or many other fruits and vegetables . . . Approximately one in three mouthfuls of food and drink require the presence of a pollinator.” – Xerces Society

Research shows that pollinator populations, including bees and butterflies, are declining in Washington state and the United States. “Unfortunately, the numbers of both native pollinators and domesticated bee populations are declining. They are threatened by habitat loss, disease, and the excessive and inappropriate use of pesticides.” ² In March of 2025 Washington State University staff published a study showing that butterfly numbers have decreased by more than 20 percent from 2000 to 2020, with some species declining by more than 90 percent.⁷

Selecting the right plants is foundational to drawing pollinators to your garden. The two Pollinator Gardens in the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Discovery Garden, west of Mount Vernon, provide examples of plants that attract pollinators throughout the seasons. Master Gardener Alix Foster oversees the Pollinator Gardens and several years ago wrote an article describing the basics about the pollination process and why pollinators are so important, along with what each gardener can do to support pollinators. Read the article here >

Spiraea japonica Golden Princess attracts pollinators in the Pollinator Garden in the Discovery Garden.
© Skagit County Master Gardeners

Jacob’s Ladder (Polemonium reptans) and foxglove attract various pollinators, especially bees. Other pollinators like butterflies, moths, and flies are also attracted to the flowers. © Skagit County Master Gardeners

Foster recently led a tour of one of the compact Pollinator Gardens to showcase the selection and placement of plants that maximize the number and variety of bugs and birds visiting the garden. Efforts are underway to add more native plants and enhance the number of plants that bloom in sequence over the months along with a variety of colors, shapes, and sizes to span the seasons. During daytime hours, 365 days a year, enjoy a self-guided tour of the Discovery Garden where signs list the plant names, what pollinators they draw, and the bloom time for the specimens on display. To see the complete list of plants in the Pollinator Gardens at the Discovery Garden, go to https://skagitmg.org/home/discovery-garden/pollinator-garden/.

Fortunately, there is an abundance of options for pollinator-friendly plants. The Pollinator Partnership, a global non-profit dedicated to the protection and promotion of pollinators and their ecosystems, offers a tool on their website to generate a list based on zip code at https://www.pollinator.org/find-your-roots-tool. A search using Mount Vernon, WA 98273, yields a list of 1,172 perennial flowers, shrubs, and trees to consider for a pollinator landscape.

Several fundamentals apply when choosing plants to draw pollinators:

Use native plants: Natives, including wildflowers, shrubs, and trees, are naturally adapted to the region’s climate and soil. Research by Gordon Frankies ³ shows native plants are four times more likely than non-native plants to attract bees and significantly increase the abundance of butterflies and moths. The Salal Native Plant Garden, adjacent to the Discovery Garden, introduces home gardeners to many varieties native to northwest Washington. According to the Pollinator Partnership, “Non-native plants such as cultivar and hybrid plant species are, in most cases, not good for pollinators as they can result in double flowers, changes in flower color, and sterile flowers with no pollen.”

Select plants that bloom across the seasons: Flowering plants, including annuals and perennials, serve as a draw for pollinators. When shopping for plants, nursery tags often list the pollinators that are attracted to the specific plant. As an example, a tag on Monarda fistulosa, a perennial commonly called bee balm, lists that the deep pink blooms attract bees, hummingbirds, and butterflies.

Pollinators love flowers – keep blooms going throughout the seasons: Pollinators are drawn by a variety of plant qualities, colorful blooms, and the availability of pollen and/or nectar.

Interested in Becoming a Master Gardener?

Application period is now open through August 15, 2025.

WSU has recently launched a new training platform called Washington Green School, designed to provide comprehensive research-based horticulture and environmental stewardship education. The Washington Green School offers two distinct tracks:

• Washington Gardener Certificate Track
  This option is ideal for individuals seeking to enhance their gardening skills without the commitment of volunteering. This self-paced, online-only course provides a certificate upon successful completion.
• Extension Master Gardener Volunteer Track
  This track is for those interested in becoming certified WSU Extension Master Gardener volunteers and includes the Green School online coursework, in-person, local volunteer training, and a commitment to volunteer service hours.

For more information, go to https://skagitmg.org/home/green-school/

To apply for the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Program, go to https://extension.wsu.edu/skagit/mg/apply/

In the search for food resources, each type of pollinator has preferences for the color, nectar, odor, pollen, and flower shape. The Pollinator Partnership has compiled the Pollinator Syndromes chart below describing characteristics which draw eight different pollinator groups. For example, butterflies prefer flowers shaped like a narrow tube with a spur and a wide landing pad, often in bright red and purple colors. Bats pollinate plants which emit strong musty scents and open at night.

In addition to referring to the plant lists for the two local Pollinator Gardens, consider regular visits to the Discovery Garden or local nurseries to check what is blooming each month, or seek out another pollinator garden, such as Pollinator Pathway Northwest at 21 Acres in Woodinville (https://21acres.org/).

Plant several similar plants in close proximity: Create several extensive, round plantings of each plant to minimize the distance pollinators need to travel to obtain their nutrition and transport pollen. Additionally, experts recommend planting at least three different pollinator plants within each of the three blooming seasons: spring, summer, and fall ³ for maximum benefit.

Consider a bee lawn: Adding flowers in with turfgrass can provide a draw for pollinators seeking nectar and/or pollen. The bee lawn is available for human recreation and as an attraction for dozens of species of native bees ^4.

Use care with chemicals: For details about chemical use to protect pollinators, see Washington State University Extension bulletin “Pollination and Pollinator Protection” in the references below.

In addition to flowers and plants, home gardeners should be aware of the basic needs of pollinators:

• Appropriate nesting areas Off-season hibernation sites
• Good sun exposure
• Adequate source(s) of water
• And lastly, allow leaves to gather [and self-mulch] on the ground as a haven for insects, birds, and others through winter.

REFERENCES AND RESOURCES:

1. Lawrence, T. (2015) WSU Extension bulletin FS174E. Pollination and Pollinator Protection (Home Garden Series). 
2. Ley, E., Buchmann, S., and Holmes, K. (2025) Selecting Plants for Pollinators Including the states of: Oregon and Washington a Regional Guide for Farmers, Land Managers, and Gardeners in the Pacific Lowland Mixed Forest Province. The Pollinator Partnership™/North American Pollinator Protection Campaign.
3. Mader, E., Shepherd, Matthew, Vaughan, M., Hoffman, S., LeBuhn, G. (2011) Xerces Society Guide: Attracting Native Pollinators. Storey Publishing. North Adams, MA.
4. Moncada, K., Reiter, M., and Wolfin, J. (2023) Planting and maintaining a bee lawn. University of Minnesota Extension.
5. Pollinator Partnership. (2025)
6. Pollinator Threats. (2025) Pollinator Partnership.
7. U.S. Butterfly Populations are Severely Declining. (2025) Washington State University Office of Research. (2025)
8. Wollaeger, H., Getter, K. and Behe, B. (2015). Consumer Preferences for Traditional, Neonicotinoid-free, Bee-friendly, or Biological Control Pest Management Practices on Floriculture Crops. Michigan State University Department of Horticulture. HortScience 50(5):721-732.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Kari Ranten is a retired journalist and health care communicator who became a certified Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener in 2024. 

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Planting, growing and maintaining blueberries

Growing blueberries: Start with the right soil to get “superfood” results

How to choose blueberries well suited for success in the Pacific Northwest

Posted July 4, 2025

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By Kari Ranten, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Kari Ranten

Blueberries are a staple of Skagit County’s thriving commercial agricultural economy and are an increasingly popular plant and crop for northwest home gardeners.

Commercially, Washington leads the nation in blueberry production, with 26 percent of U.S. blueberries generating a revenue of $205 million, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA-NASS.2025). Blueberry acreage in Skagit County increased eightfold since 2000. In 2023, 4,800 acres of blueberries were grown commercially in Skagit County, ranking third in crop acreage behind only field crops and potatoes, according to Washington State University Extension Skagit County’s Crop Acreage and Yield Report.

These strong statistics show that northwest Washington is an excellent growing environment for home and commercial production of blueberries, yielding a delicious summertime fruit crop or serving as a sturdy, attractive ornamental addition to the home landscape.

Blueberries have gained popularity among consumers for their nutritional qualities and are recognized as a “superfood,” offering an excellent source of essential nutrients, vitamins C and K, and dietary fiber. Blueberries are also a nutritional source of valuable “phyto-components,” contributing to antioxidants and anti-inflammatory qualities.

For those interested in growing blueberries in the home garden, there are some decisions and preparatory steps to take to get ready for planting from January to March.

Common varieties
Of the five main types of blueberries grown in the United States, northern highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum L.) are most common in Washington. These deciduous, perennial shrubs are shallow-rooted, take six to eight years to reach full production, and varieties can reach five to nine feet in height.

Researchers at WSU Mount Vernon Northwestern Washington Research & Extension Center (NWREC) play a vital role in working with commercial blueberry growers. Chakradhar Mattupalli, assistant professor of plant pathology, leads the Berry and Potato Pathology Program, conducting research and extension activities addressing the biology and management of diseases of highbush blueberry and potato crops. He provided guidance and resources in the preparation of this article. For more information about Mattupalli’s research, go to Berry and Potato Pathology | Washington State University

NWREC is one of four WSU Research Centers operated by the College of Agricultural, Human, and Natural Resource Sciences, housing nine research programs, extension outreach, and research affiliates. The research center works to solve plant-related problems and develop cost-effective and environmentally sound plant production practices based directly on results from experimental field, greenhouse, and laboratory research trials.

The publication “Blueberry Cultivars for the Pacific Northwest” notes that half-high blueberries, the result of crosses between northern highbush and lowbush blueberries, can also grow in the region and reach three to four feet tall. The cultivars are also used as attractive landscape plants and are suited to container production.

The NW Fruit Garden, next to the Discovery Garden on Memorial Highway in Mount Vernon, provides home gardeners with an excellent illustration of 30 blueberry varieties suitable to the local environment. The garden is maintained by volunteers, including Beth Jones, a NW Fruit volunteer since 2019, who leads the blueberry team charged with caring for 122 plants, some more than 20 years old.

Northern Highbush “Duke”

Northern Highbush “Draper”

Northern Highbush “Bluejay”

Start by selecting a location and testing soil acidity

Home gardeners can start by selecting the right location and soil for blueberry bushes. Blueberries require acidic soil with a pH of 4.2 to 5.5, similar to rhododendrons and azaleas, according to a 2025 presentation to Skagit County Master Gardeners trainees by Lisa Wasko DeVetter, associate professor of small fruit horticulture at Washington State University’s NWREC in Mount Vernon. Soil can be lab tested for pH, and if needed, acidification can be enhanced. A publication by Oregon State University Extension titled “Acidifying Soil for Crop Production West of the Cascade Mountains” provides a good resource on evaluating and enhancing soil acidity.

Because of the acidic soil needs of blueberries, home gardeners will need to plan ahead and prepare the space and soil before the arrival of the early spring planting season.

Blueberries can also be grown in containers and flourish in the full sun.

Plant selection, pollination, and care
Home gardeners should select two- to three-year-old plants (when shopping, ask at the nursery about plant age) and be on the lookout for those that are disease and heat-resistant “Legacy”, “Rubel”, and “Liberty”, have shown resistance to common diseases and rising summer temperatures in the NW Fruit Garden.

Plant blueberries from January to March, spacing three feet apart, in holes large enough to handle all of the shallow roots and allow three to four inches of soil to cover. Once established, blueberry plants are quite sturdy, with most producing fruit for 20 years.

While northern highbush blueberries are self-fertile, experts advise home gardeners to plant at least two different cultivars with overlapping bloom times in proximity to one another to benefit from cross-pollination and larger, earlier fruit.

All northern highbush blueberries are compatible with each other for cross-pollination.

Remove all flowers during the first year or two after planting to prevent fruit from setting and to give plants time to mature and enhance future yield.

Fertilize annually with a focus on nitrogen. For more information, see Oregon State University Extension publication EM 8857 titled “Nutrient Management for Blueberries in Oregon.” 

Blueberries require regular, supplemental watering from May to August and annual mulching with untreated wood chips.

Interested in Becoming a Master Gardener?

Application period is now open through August 15, 2025.

WSU has recently launched a new training platform called Washington Green School, designed to provide comprehensive research-based horticulture and environmental stewardship education. The Washington Green School offers two distinct tracks:

• Washington Gardener Certificate Track
  This option is ideal for individuals seeking to enhance their gardening skills without the commitment of volunteering. This self-paced, online-only course provides a certificate upon successful completion.
• Extension Master Gardener Volunteer Track
  This track is for those interested in becoming certified WSU Extension Master Gardener volunteers and includes the Green School online coursework, in-person, local volunteer training, and a commitment to volunteer service hours.

For more information, go to https://skagitmg.org/home/green-school/

To apply for the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Program, go to https://extension.wsu.edu/skagit/mg/apply/

Prune each year in winter or early spring to eliminate any dead or weak shoots and select two to three new canes to retain for the next season. Prune carefully to retain the desired shoots, creating a vase shape that opens up the middle of the plant to provide air and light. Half-high cultivars do not need to be pruned as severely or as regularly as highbush types.

Healthy, established blueberry plants can yield more than one gallon of fruit per plant.

Blueberry plants can decline over time and should be replaced when they stop sending up new shoots during the growing season.

Pests and common diseases
A variety of pests and diseases can impact blueberry bushes and fruit.

Birds enjoy feasting on blueberries. To protect the fruit harvest from birds, home gardeners may want to cover plants with fine netting mounted on a frame and anchored to the ground from mid-June through harvest completion in August. If the bushes are growing for landscape purposes, let the birds have a summer snack.

Spotted wing drosophila, aphids, scale insects, root weevils, inchworms, and fruit worms can damage blueberry plants and fruit. To prevent or manage such infestations, refer to WSU’s publication “Growing Small Fruits in the Garden.”

In northwest Washington, blueberries are impacted primarily by two diseases: mummy berry and botrytis blight or gray mold.

Mummy berry is easily identified by the home gardener in the mid- to late- stages as the mature mummified fruit appears gray, shriveled, hard, and inedible. The disease is caused by a fungus that infects young flowers and vegetative buds in spring. About three weeks after primary infection, a brownish-gray mass of spores develops on blighted flower stalks and leaves that are spread by wind, rain, and honeybees (pollinators) to healthy flowers.

To manage the disease, the home gardener must remove the mummified fruit from the plant and lift it off the ground, add about two inches of mulch around the plants, and regularly disturb the soil during the spring. Healthy fruit can be harvested and used. At season’s end, clean the area to prevent infected berries from overwintering.

Blueberries, strawberries, and raspberries, especially on the west side of the Cascades, are affected by botrytis blight and gray mold. The cool and wet weather in western Washington is conducive to the development of this disease. Pruning creates airflow in the plant canopy, and reduced moisture on the foliage or fruit can help slow down the fungal growth.

REFERENCES AND RESOURCES:

Brun, C. A., DeVetter, L., and Benedicts, C. (2016) Growing Small Fruits in the Home Garden. Washington State University Extension Home Garden Series. Publication #EM103E

Finn, C., Strik, B., and Moore, P. (2024) Blueberry Cultivars for the Pacific Northwest. Oregon State University Extension Service. PNW #656

Hart, J., Strik, B., White, L., and Yang, W. (2020) Nutrient Management for Blueberries in Oregon. Oregon State University Extension Service. EM 8918. 

Horneck, D., Hart, J. Stevens, R., Petrie, S., and Altland, J. (2004) Acidifying Soil for Crop Production West of the Cascade Mountains (Western Oregon and Washington). Oregon State University Extension Service. EM 8857. 

Pscheidt, J.W., and Ocamb, C.M. (2025a). Blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum)-Mummy Berry.  Pacific Northwest Plant Disease Management Handbook. Oregon State University. 

Pscheidt, J.W., and Ocamb, C.M. (2025b). Blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum)-Botrytis blight. Pacific Northwest Plant Disease Management Handbook. Oregon State University.

Washington State University Northwestern Washington Research and Extension Center. (2025) Berry and Potato Pathology.

Washington State University Skagit County Extension Skagit County Agricultural Statistics. (2024) Crop Acreage and Yield Report.

Yan, L. (2023) Blueberries and Health. USDA Agricultural Research Service.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Kari Ranten is a retired journalist and health care communicator who became a certified Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener in 2024. 

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener website.

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Garden Open House and Ask a Master Gardener Day:

Eight acres, three gardens, infinite inspiration

Open House to Showcase Master Gardeners, Native Plant Society, and NW Fruit

May 1, 2025

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By Kari Ranten, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Kari Ranten

Want to know about gardening – from roses to vegetables? Want to learn more about including native plants in your landscape? Ever wonder how to grow, graft, and prune fruit trees? Learn about all of this and more at the annual Garden Open House on Saturday, June 28, 2025, in Mount Vernon.

Eight acres of gardens showcase amazing trees and native plants at the event slated for 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. at 16602 State Route 536 (Memorial Highway), just west of the Washington State University Northwestern Washington Research and Extension Center.

The event, sponsored by the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Program, takes place at gardens maintained by volunteers representing the Master Gardener Program, NW Fruit, and the Salal Chapter of the Washington Native Plant Society. In addition, several partner organizations will present interactive displays and information on clean water, noxious weeds, maintaining healthy landscapes, and promoting pollinators, birds, and other wildlife.

This annual event offers home gardeners in Northwest Washington the opportunity to experience a wide range of gardening skills, view hundreds of plants and trees, and learn ways to respect the environment. Master gardeners and many partners enjoy this opportunity to share the gardens and educate our neighbors. And it’s a great, free summer event for the whole family.

Join Us for a Three Garden Open House

Saturday, June 28, 2025
10 am – 2 pm
Discovery Garden
16602 State Route 536 (Memorial Hwy.)
Mount Vernon, WA 98273
Fun Activities for Kids  ~  Plant Sale
Water Conservation Experts  ~  Noxious Weed Information
30+ Garden Rooms  ~  Plant Clinic and Gardening Help
Native Plants  ~  Pollinators
Talk to Fruit Tree Experts

The open house is a great venue to talk about the mission of the Master Gardener Program and to provide evidence-based scientific information for the home gardener. It is also a wonderful event and very rewarding to meet and exchange ideas with local gardeners.

The open house will feature three gardens:

The Discovery Garden

The Salal Garden

The NW Fruit Garden

Discovery Garden:
This is truly a hidden gem in Skagit County that merits discovery! Nearly half of the guests at the 2024 open house said it was their very first visit – including those who live locally! June is a great time to experience the garden where visitors will find beautiful blooming colors, including many perennials and dozens of rose varieties, all selected to thrive in the Pacific Northwest.

This amazing 1.5-acre oasis is maintained by the volunteers of the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Program. The Discovery Garden features 30 garden “rooms” ranging from herbs and heathers to roses and vegetables. The garden paths are ADA-accessible paths and include the Enabling Garden to illustrate ways to adapt the joy of gardening for those with mobility issues. Master gardeners will be on site to answer questions, demonstrate best practices, and inspire home gardeners.

Salal Native Plant Garden:
Adjacent to the Discovery Garden, this half-acre oasis of native plants is maintained by volunteers of the Washington Native Plant Society’s Salal Chapter to demonstrate how native plants can be incorporated into the home landscape. A shaded trail leads visitors into a natural setting featuring dogwood, salal, cascara, vine maple, ferns, trillium, and more. Volunteers, representing north Snohomish, Skagit, and Island counties, will be on hand to guide garden tours and answer questions. For information, go to https://www.wnps.org/salal.
NW Fruit Garden:
Adjacent to the Discovery Garden, the NW Fruit Garden encompasses six acres of fruit trees, berry bushes, and other fruit-bearing plants, along with nut trees. Altogether, the garden features 606 plants – from peach and persimmon to apples and Asian pears. The garden features a growing collection of larger antique apples, many of which were grown during the 1960s and 70s. The mission of the NW Fruit Garden is “to advance fruit horticultural practices for the unique Western Washington maritime climate through advocacy, research, education, and demonstration for the benefit of the general public and the small farmer.” Volunteers will be on hand to answer questions, offer tours, and provide demonstrations.

A popular feature and photo op at the NW Fruit Garden is the welcome espalier – using grafted and supported fruit tree limbs to spell out the word WELCOME. The welcome and the entire tree fruit garden were designed in the 1990s by the late Kristan Johnson, https://nwfruit.org/fruit-garden-designer/ a landscape architect.

Booths and more features of the open house:

Get your “passport” and enjoy the open house:
Upon arrival at the open house, guests will receive a “passport” to track their visits to each of the activities offered at the event. Complete the passport and take home a prize!
Check out the Children’s Garden:
A wonderland of activities for children of all ages awaits visitors to the Children’s Garden with fun surprises and interactive features. During the open house, children can enjoy free rock painting and bubble blowing within the whimsical garden space.
Container gardening display:
Using pots and containers for gardening – from flowers to vegetables – is a popular method in the northwest. Containers can be useful options for gardeners with limited space or accessibility issues. The demonstration will feature containers for growing food as well as decorative elements, show how containers can allow hardy indoor plants to spend months outdoors, and provide opportunities for children to have their own mini gardens.

Nearly anything can provide a home to successfully grow plants, and volunteers will show examples to stimulate visitors’ creativity. The educational display will also feature information on soil types and amendments, as well as what contents to look for in commercial soil products.

Interested in Becoming a Master Gardener?

Application period is now open through August 15, 2025.

Stop by the WSU Extension booth to learn more about the new Washington Green School, the newly launched training platform designed to provide comprehensive research-based horticulture and environmental stewardship education. The Washington Green School offers two distinct tracks:

• Washington Gardener Certificate Track
  This option is ideal for individuals seeking to enhance their gardening skills without the commitment of volunteering. This self-paced, online-only course provides a certificate upon successful completion.
• Extension Master Gardener Volunteer Track
  This track is for those interested in becoming certified WSU Extension Master Gardener volunteers and includes the Green School online coursework, in-person, local volunteer training, and a commitment to volunteer service hours.

For more information, go to https://skagitmg.org/home/green-school/

To apply for the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Program, go to https://extension.wsu.edu/skagit/mg/apply/

Master Gardener Plant Clinic:
The plant clinic, located in the Pavilion structure at the center of the Discovery Garden, is a popular part of the annual open house and the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners Program’s year-round outreach to assist home gardeners in diagnosing plant problems. The variety of issues routinely brought to the clinics include identification of poison hemlock; treatment of rust on red raspberries; tent caterpillars; powdery mildew on grapes; how to mitigate damage by deer; and questions about soil testing. Guests may bring a plant sample and photos to the plant clinic to help the master gardeners identify the problem and provide advice.

The certified master gardeners provide science-based information to home gardeners about sound and sustainable gardening practices, including integrated pest management, efficient watering technologies, recycling garden waste, and cultural methods for preventing and treating plant disease.

Ask a Master Gardener Blog:
Master gardener volunteers who write, edit, and take photos for the twice monthly “Ask a Master Gardener” blog will staff a booth where guests can sign up to receive blog posts, pick up copies of popular articles, and offer suggestions for future articles. The blog features a wide range of articles written by Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners on topics relevant to gardeners in the North Puget Sound area.
Plant Sale:
Master gardeners will offer a variety of perennial plants for sale at the open house, all propagated and nurtured over the past months. Ferns, figs, grapes, native trees and shrubs, epimedium, Douglas fir, and more will be available for sale.
Skagit County Noxious Weed Program:
Skagit County’s Noxious Weeds program surveys, treats, and supports landowners in treating invasive plants around the county. The program has a particular focus on knotweed, which often infests river and streambanks, and spartina, an invasive grass that grows in salt marshes.

County program staff will be on hand to show photos of and information on many of Skagit County’s most notorious and harmful noxious weeds. Staff will answer questions about what weeds may have infested visitors’ properties, offer suggestions for treating them, and provide informational materials to take home.

Skagit County Clean Water Program:
Skagit County’s Clean Water Program uses a variety of efforts to keep pollution out of local waters. The program team works to reduce stormwater pollution and monitors local waterways to spot bacterial pollution from dogs, failing septic systems, and farms. Their projects reduce dirty runoff into streams and work with the public to help protect water.

At the Garden Open House, Skagit County Clean Water staff will focus on how beautiful gardening and landscaping can go hand in hand with protecting our water. The booth will include a display and information on permeable pavement (paved surfaces that still allow rainwater to soak into the ground underneath). Educational materials will address how to garden without adding harmful chemicals and excess nutrients to local waters, as well as how planting native plants can create a habitat, protect water, and look amazing in the garden.

Skagit Conservation District
The Skagit Conservation District’s mission is to bring voluntary, incentive-based natural resource solutions to the citizens of Skagit County and beyond by providing technical, financial, and educational resources.
​The district works with landowners and farm operators to plan and implement conservation practices on private land. The district is a non-regulatory agency, which means that all practices implemented by landowners and farm operators who participate in its programs (cooperators) are voluntary.

The district’s booth will feature information on creating and maintaining healthy landscapes, rainscaping, and planting for pollinators, birds, and other wildlife.

For home gardeners who can’t make it to the open house, master gardeners have work sessions at the Discovery Garden from 9 a.m. to noon on Tuesdays through September, and visitors are welcome to stop by, ask questions, and learn some tips from the experts.

All three gardens are open year-round and are free to the public seven days a week from dawn to dusk. Visitors are invited to stop by throughout the year to view the seasonal changes, colors, and blooms. Signage in each garden identifies the plants, making for interesting and educational self-guided tours.

REFERENCES AND RESOURCES:

Kenny, E. (2007) Bob Norton, the king of apples, brings his passion for fruit to Vashon.

NW Fruit. (2025)

Skagit Conservation District. (2025)

Skagit County Clean Water Program. (2025)

Skagit County Master Gardener Foundation. (2025).

Skagit County Noxious Weed Program. (2025) 

Washington Native Plant Society Salal Chapter. (2025)

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Kari Ranten is a retired journalist and health care communicator who became a certified Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener in 2024. 

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Why I became a certified Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

It all starts with a passion for the garden.

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By Kari Ranten, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Kari Ranten

I am a newly certified Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener and a proud member of the class of 2024. The past 18 months have been a wonderful experience filled with learning, sharing my love of gardening with the community, meeting and working alongside a welcoming team of fellow gardeners, volunteering my time in a great program focused on valued priorities, and gaining insights and inspiration.

Fellow gardening enthusiasts need to take a hard look at the options offered through WSU’s new Washington Green School. Two tracks are now offered: becoming a Certified WSU Extension Master Gardener or earning a Washington Gardener Certificate for home or professional advancement. Becoming a certified master gardener expands my knowledge while fulfilling a commitment to community engagement, outreach, and volunteerism.

Interested in Becoming a Master Gardener?

Application period is now open through August 15, 2025.

WSU is introducing a new program called Washington Green School which will include WSU Extension Master Gardener training. Beginning this fall, Green School will offer two distinct tracks in its online course: one for individuals looking to enhance their gardening skills through research-based horticultural and environmental stewardship, the Washington Gardener course, and another for those who wish to take it further by becoming a WSU Extension Master Gardener Program volunteer.

Jump over to a full description and links at: skagitmg.org/home/green-school/

While there are countless reasons to become a master gardener, or “garden geek” as the 2024 classmates say, here the focus is on the top 10 reasons why I chose to become a certified master gardener and volunteer in my community:

1. Loving plants and gardening.
It all starts with a passion for the garden. “I LOVE gardening!” I marvel at the variety, beauty, simplicity yet complexity, and benefits of plants growing in the Northwest and desire to learn more.

2. Learning with formal classes and hands-on training.
While I genuinely love plants and appreciate a beautiful garden, I did not have any education on the basics and science of plants. That said, for life-long learners the Master Gardener Program as an opportunity to learn science-based details about botany, how to propagate, nurture, grow, and maintain a wide variety of plants for the landscape, and to produce food.

As a former newspaper reporter and editor, I have a constant curiosity. The field of gardening provides an endless supply of questions and answers. It was while working in the newsroom at the Skagit Valley Herald in the 1980s that I became familiar with the program. Legendary Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Joe Dupree would drop by the office each week to bring a hard copy of his “Ask a Master Gardener” column for publication. I can still see the bearded, grinning sprite of a man, always clad in overalls, regaling the news staff with the joys of gardening. These days, I walk through “Joe’s Place,” a memorial space in the Discovery Garden, with fond memories of the man who planted the seed for my future participation.

I enjoyed the formal learning and a return to studying and quizzes afforded by the program. Even more enjoyable is putting that learning to work during the practical “boots on the ground” education in the Discovery Garden with veteran master gardeners who are always willing to answer any question and provide important how-to instruction and advice.

3. Benefiting from a science-driven, well-respected program.
All master gardener training and programs are based on science, a tenet that volunteers carry forward as they advise and assist local home gardeners. The program’s longevity, credibility in science and research, and overarching leadership of Washington State University garner respect in the community and across the state.

In 2024, Niche, a college ranking and review website, ranked WSU’s College of Agricultural, Human, and Natural Resource Sciences (CAHNRS) as one of the 15 best agricultural sciences colleges. In an article in the WSU Insider in October 2023 about the ranking, author Angela Sams writes, “Encompassing 13 academic departments and schools, 22 majors, and 27 graduate programs, CAHNRS leads WSU’s land-grant mission of service through education and research,” which affirms the foundation of the Master Gardener Program.

4. Desiring to volunteer and serve the community.
Volunteerism has always been part of my life. My parents were excellent role models and showed me the importance of giving time to serve the community. Over the past 40 years, much of my volunteer work has been in governance, serving on several boards of non-profit organizations in Skagit County. In retirement, I desired to exchange board meetings for work in the dirt of the Discovery Garden, to weed, plant, water, and prune.

The benefits of volunteering are well documented, including in a Mayo Health System article titled “Helping people, changing lives: 3 health benefits of volunteering” by Angela Thoreson, LICSW of the system’s Psychiatry and Psychology department, published in 2023.

“The work that volunteers provide is essential to everyday activities, giving volunteers a sense of purpose, especially when giving their time and talent in the areas they find meaningful,” Thoreson writes, noting that volunteers experience greater increases in life satisfaction and self-esteem.

The WSU Master Gardener Program addresses important sociologic and environmental issues by teaching research-based horticulture information.

5. Supporting shared priorities.
Master gardeners have a foundation of nine priorities to provide focus for the program and participants. The list spotlights climate change, clean water, water conservation, soil health, pollinators, local food (growing food to improve individual and community health and wellness), plant biodiversity, nearby nature, and wildlife preparedness.

The training program dives deeply into all nine, and the practices recommended by master gardeners support these important tenets. In training and activities, we tie our projects and advice back to one or more of these priorities. Learn more about the priorities here: https://mastergardener.wsu.edu/priorities/

In my home gardening, I especially enjoyed learning more about the importance of promoting pollinators because of their important role in the ecosystem. Through my training and research, I have added many plants to our home landscape to draw bees, hummingbirds, and butterflies purposefully. While only anecdotal evidence, I noted increasing pollinator numbers in our landscape last summer and have added more pollinator-friendly perennials and annuals again this year, including bee balm, Black-eyed Susan, heuchera, cuphea, coneflower, lilac, sunflowers, zinnias, and more.

6. Protecting the environment and reducing waste.
The science-based curriculum and nine priorities focus on showing respect and responsibility for the environment, reducing waste, understanding our impact on climate change, clean water and water conservation, soil health, and plant biodiversity. Master gardeners are focused on teaching research-based gardening and environmental stewardship practices. https://mastergardener.wsu.edu/

Know & Grow
Vines and Clematis: Grow the Heck Up

Free, no registration required
Tuesday, June 17, 2025
1 pm – 2:30 pm
NWREC Sakuma Auditorium
16650 State Highway 536, Mount Vernon

Mark Your Calendar:
Annual Three Garden Open House
Saturday, June 28, 2025
10 am – 2 pm
Discovery Garden
16602 State Route 536 (Memorial Highway)
Mount Vernon, WA 98273
Fun Activities for Kids  ~  Plant Sale
Water Conservation Experts  ~  Noxious Weed Information
30+ Garden Rooms  ~  Plant Clinic and Gardening Help
Native Plants  ~  Pollinators
Talk to Fruit Tree Experts

“WSU’s Master Gardener Program addresses important sociological and environmental issues by teaching research-based horticulture information. We want people to have important skills and abilities that help mitigate challenges and to understand that everyone has a role to play in creating and sustaining healthy and resilient communities,” according to the program website.

7. Meeting like-minded people and making new friends.
As a fellow 2024 classmate wrote: “I felt that I wanted to find a group of like-minded diggers and sowers who see the world as I do, understanding how we are all interconnected and rely on each other to support life on earth.”

Likewise, as soon as I interviewed for a position in the class, I knew I had found a group of comrades with similar interests, goals, and priorities. Research shows the importance of having a strong social circle.

Stanford University authors Tanya Thakur, MBBS and Sharon Brock, Med, write “Researchers have linked volunteering with improved mental health, not only due to the feelings of social connection with the other volunteers, but also due to a boost in self-esteem that results from offering time and energy for the good of others.”

8. Gaining inspiration and embracing creativity.
American abstract painter Elizabeth Murray stated: “Gardening is the art that uses flowers and plants as paint, and the soil and sky as canvas.”

I am inspired by the art of beautiful gardens – both formal and informal – and seek to bring small glimpses of creativity, color, and textures into my home landscape. In addition, there is also a sense of accomplishment. A fellow classmate has found that nothing is better than working in the garden either at home or the Discovery Garden, be it vegetable, native, or ornamental, and then sitting back and admiring your handiwork and hard work.

The Discovery Garden on Memorial Highway west of Mount Vernon is filled with inspiration for the home gardener. With 30 themed “rooms” or gardens, master gardeners and visitors alike learn from experienced master gardeners on the nuances of caring for roses, growing in a greenhouse, how to raise vegetables, designing a Japanese garden, the use of color and texture in the naturescape, or the formality of an herb garden. Each is a piece of art that grows and changes with the seasons.

9. Enjoying the health benefits of gardening.
Research shows that gardening has many benefits for physical and mental health. In an article titled “Does gardening have health benefits?” Pamela J. Bennett, MS, and Josh Winn, MS, of Ohio State University note a wide range of health benefits, including reducing stress, improving activity levels, and supporting a healthy diet with homegrown fresh vegetables and fruits.

The authors write, “Gardening also can boost your mood. Studies show cytokine levels rise, which in turn activates the ‘feel-good’ hormone serotonin when working in the soil. Specific bacteria in the soil also can boost your serotonin levels.”

Another classmate noted, “Maybe it is the endorphins that are released as I play in the soil, or maybe it is the meditative state that I find myself in while gardening,” that contribute to her overall well-being.

10. Having fun!
On any given Tuesday morning, from March through October, the Discovery Garden is a true “beehive of activity” as master gardeners gather to tend the display garden. The scene is punctuated by laughter, smiles, hugs, and teamwork, known as Fun.

A piece aired on NPR sheds light on the value of joy and fun. The story quotes a book titled “The Fun Habit: How the Disciplined Pursuit of Joy and Wonder Can Change Your Life,” by psychologist Mike Rucker in 2023. Rucker’s book “makes the case that pursuit of fun experiences may be even more valuable than seeking the sometimes-abstract goal of happiness,” according to NPR. “Happiness is a state of mind,” Rucker writes. “But fun is something you can do. It doesn’t require education, money, or power. All it requires is intentionality. If happiness is a mirage, fun is your backyard oasis.”

And I love spending time in my backyard oasis, now, more than ever.

REFERENCES AND RESOURCES:

Bennett, P.  and Winn, J. (2023) Does Gardening Have Health Benefits? The Ohio State University.

Fulton, A. (2023) Here’s Why You Should Make a Habit of Having More Fun. NPR. 

Janovich, A. (2023) 50 Years, 50 States, WSU’s Master Gardeners Program Became a National – and Global – Model. Washington State Magazine. Pullman, WA. Washington State University.

Marquis, J. (2025) Impacting Communities: Cultivating Plants, People, and Communities Since 1973. Washington State University Extension Master Gardener Program. 

Sams, A. (2023) CAHNRS Lands Top 15 Ranking for Best U.S. Agricultural Sciences College. College of Agricultural, Human and Natural Resource Sciences, Washington State University.

Thakur, T. and Brock, S. (2024) Volunteering as a Way to Make Friends. Stanford Lifestyle Medicine.

Thoreson, A. (2023) Helping People, Changing Lives: 3 Health Benefits of Volunteering. Mayo Clinic Health System Psychiatry and Psychology Department. 

Washington State University. (2025) Our Priorities Inform Our Efforts. Washington State University Extension Master Gardener Program.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Kari Ranten is a retired journalist and health care communicator who became a certified WSU Extension Skagit County Master Gardener in 2024. 

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the Skagit County WSU Extension website.

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Pets and Home Gardens

Protecting your pets from the plants and your plants from your pets!

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By Deborah Leitner, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Deborah Leitner

Several years ago, when we adopted our beloved black lab Shadow from the Seattle Humane Society, I had visions of my new best friend spending hours with me in the garden, frolicking by my side, as I weeded, puttered, planted, pondered, and pruned my way through my fenced-in urban backyard oasis. Shortly after we got him home, it became clear that Shadow had a different plan.

Shadow’s propensity for joyful exuberance posed specific gardening challenges, as he loved to dig, eat strawberries and vegetables, and generally disturb any carefully laid out plans. Some plants were lost, but I found a new focus in creating an environment where he could frolic and play, and we could enjoy him while not stressing too much if any plant or shrub got injured in the process. Both pets and gardening require planning, patience, and a healthy dose of reality.

What to Avoid
The ASPCA (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals) offers a comprehensive list of toxic plants for dogs, cats, and horses on their website. (See reference below.) This website also provides a complete list of safe and non-toxic plants for pets.

Examples of toxic plants that are common in Pacific Northwest backyards include:

Daffodils: The flowers, leaves, and bulbs can cause abdominal pain, vomiting, and diarrhea. In severe cases, cardiac arrhythmias and respiratory problems may occur.

Lily of the Valley: Dogs who eat lily of the valley may experience cardiac arrhythmias, decreased heart rates, and seizures.

Tulips and hyacinths: The bulbs are toxic. Mild cases show drooling and some vomiting. If dogs eat too many, they may show an increase in heart rate.

Azaleas: These can be fatal if your dog even chews on leaves.

The above list is not meant to be all-inclusive but rather a sampling of the most commonly encountered toxic plants in urban backyards. For more detailed lists, check out the WSU and ASPCA references below.

Also, many houseplants are toxic to both cats and dogs. Be sure to keep your indoor plants well out of reach of pets. A few of the most toxic plants include aloe, philodendron, pothos, jade plant, and asparagus fern. If you need help identifying your houseplants, the master gardeners at the WSU Extension Plant Clinics in Burlington or Anacortes or the Farmer’s Market booths in Mount Vernon or Sedro Wooley are excellent resources for identification of plants.

According to the ASPCA, it is a myth that dogs and cats instinctively avoid toxic plants. If you see your dog or cat eating a plant and are unsure if it is harmful, it is best to contact your vet as soon as possible. The ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center is also available 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, at (888) 426-4435 to answer any questions in an emergency.

What to Plant
There are many plants that both do well in the Pacific Northwest and are safe for dogs. The following list highlights some of the safe plants that are commonly found in PNW backyards:

Shrubs: Abelia is a hardy shrub that can tolerate many challenges, including being sprayed with dog urine. Green Mountain boxwoods, cypresses, and Rocky Mountain Juniper are good hedge options. Mature shrubs are more resistant to dog damage.

Trees: Camellias, magnolias, and Japanese maples are all good choices

Perennials: False goat’s beard (Astilbe,) ornamental grasses, red hot pokers (Kniphophia,) goat’s beard, echinacea, and rudbeckia all seem to tolerate the paw traffic.

Annuals: Sunflowers, fuchsia, pansy, and petunia are all safe for dogs. 

Herbs: Organically grown edible herbs are a good option. 

Native plants: Salal, evergreen huckleberry, Oregon grape, and western sword ferns are all hardy natives that are safe for dogs. 

Other plants: Japanese aralia, hardy geranium, coreopsis, and nasturtiums are all dog-friendly plants

If you have a fence, try leaving a few feet between the fence and your plants. Dogs love running the fence line, chasing squirrels, saying hi to neighbors, and protecting their humans. You are saving your plants from being trampled by giving them space to do so.

Perennials such as red hot pokers (Kniphophia), goat’s beard, echinacea, and rudbeckia all seem to tolerate paw traffic.  Photo © Adobe Stock

If your pets have room to roam outside, it is critically important to identify the plants growing where they roam. Poison-hemlock is highly toxic to humans and animals and should be removed following Washington State Noxious Weed Control guidelines. Photo © Adobe Stock

Fertilizing and Mulching
Commercially prepared, organic compost on garden beds is a safe choice for dog owners. A risk is involved if using homemade compost, as mold and fungi may be present in the decomposing material containing neurotoxins. Arborist wood chips are an excellent option for mulching, but some dogs (like mine) love to eat the chips, posing other risks.

Two mulches to avoid are cocoa mulch and pine needle mulch. Cocoa mulch contains theobromine, a toxin that is dangerous to dogs. Pine needle mulch can damage your pet’s stomach lining.

If you fertilize your lawn, be sure to read the label carefully. Many products say they are safe for use around pets, but they still recommend that you keep pets off the recently fertilized grass for up to 48 hours. Consider using a mulching lawn mower, leaving the cut grass in a place where it will break down and add nitrogen back to the lawn. Another option is to let your lawn go dormant in the summer, knowing it will return to life in the fall.

Got Slugs?
If you garden in the PNW, you are likely familiar with slugs. Our most famous native slug, the banana slug, is mainly seen in the forest, eating away at decaying matter. Slugs, specifically native slugs, have their place in the greater scheme of things; they are vital to the decomposition of organic matter and provide food for birds, snakes, frogs, and other animals. However, most slugs the home gardener encounters are not native, having been introduced from Europe. Once introduced, they made themselves right at home and drive the home gardener crazy.

Commercial slug products containing metaldehyde are highly toxic to pets, birds, wildlife, and humans, and should be used with a tamper-proof bait station, if used at all. Poisoning occurs even if a small amount is ingested. Products containing iron phosphate are considered safer for people and pets, but should be used cautiously, as poisoning can still occur if your pet ingests large amounts. If you choose to use the products containing iron phosphate, read the instructions carefully, and consider putting a barricade such as a small fence or wire basket around the plant in question to prevent your dog or cat from getting near the product.

Some gardeners use broken shells, lava rock, or other rough materials to deter slugs from the area without using chemicals. Placing copper bands around plants or planting lavender, mint, or rosemary may discourage slugs and snails from entering the garden.

A safer alternative is to trap the slugs using bait. Bury a container such as a margarine tub containing yeast mixed in water (beer works well for this method), so the slug will fall into the trap and drown. You will need to monitor the trap and replace the bait regularly. Baited traps don’t discriminate by species, however. Other small wildlife can meet their end by falling into the trap. It’s a good idea to remove the trap during the day so that Fido isn’t tempted to indulge, and then set the trap out again in the evening.

Many gardeners prefer controlling slugs manually. It is time-consuming, but tried and true. Fill a jar with soapy or salty water, pick the slugs from the plants, deposit them in the jar, seal them, and wait a few days. Then flush the contents down the toilet. Over time, your slug population will substantially diminish, and your pets and other wildlife will be safe from chemical (and alcohol) poisoning. Learn more about managing slugs. 

Overall, the toxicity of slug bait is a significant concern for pet owners. Prompt intervention is crucial if poisoning is suspected, and preventive measures can help ensure the safety of your pet.

Shadow living the good life. Photo © Deborah Leitner

Shadow never lost his youthful exuberance and propensity for mischief in the garden. He lived a joyful life, but sadly, at age 13, it was time to say goodbye. It took a while to be ready for a new canine companion, but Shadow’s successor, Teddy, was found at the Skagit Valley Humane Society. Or you might say Teddy found us because we certainly didn’t expect to come home with a 10-year-old black lab mix. But discovering the joy of living with a mature senior dog, Teddy is a good match. Teddy is not interested in gardening but loves being a backyard companion.

Know & Grow
The Science Behind Companion Planting
Tuesday, May 20, 2025
1 pm – 2:30 pm
NWREC Sakuma Auditorium
16650 State Highway 536, Mount Vernon

Based on research by horticultural scientists such as Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott and Dr Jeff Gillman, you will learn natural ways to prevent or lessen pest and disease problems in your garden. Use plant combinations, polyculture, and other science-based practices for a healthier garden. Master Gardener Rae Barto will share these findings and advice.

Mark Your Calendar:
Annual Three Garden Open House
Saturday, June 28, 2025
10 am – 2 pm
Discovery Garden
16602 State Route 536 (Memorial Highway)
Mount Vernon, WA 98273
Fun Activities for Kids  ~  Plant Sale
Water Conservation Experts  ~  Noxious Weed Information
30+ Garden Rooms  ~  Plant Clinic and Gardening Help
Native Plants  ~  Pollinators
Talk to Fruit Tree Experts

Interested in becoming a Master Gardener?

WSU is introducing a new program called Washington Green School which will include WSU Extension Master Gardener training. Beginning this fall, Green School will offer two distinct tracks in its online course: one for individuals looking to enhance their gardening skills through research-based horticultural and environmental stewardship, the Washington Gardener course, and another for those who wish to take it further by becoming a WSU Extension Master Gardener Program volunteer.

Learn more about Washington Green School training.

Applications to become a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener are due by August 15, 2025 to be in the Class of 2026. Apply to be a WSU Extension Master Gardener.

REFERENCES AND RESOURCES:

Chaulker-Scott, L. (2007) Wood chip mulch: Landscape boon or bane? Retrieved at Hedgerow: Mulches

Animal Poison Control. American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. 

Toxic and Non-Toxic Plant List – Dogs. American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. 

Toxic and Non-Toxic Plant List – Cats. American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. 

Plants Toxic to Dogs. Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine.

Plant Toxicity and Pets. Texas A & M University Extension.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
Deborah Leitner is a WSU Extension Skagit County Master Gardener class of 2007. Along with caring for the Discovery Garden, she can often be found helping answer questions at the Plant Clinic in Burlington.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the Extension website.

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Dealing with Wet Spots in the Yard and Garden

Do you ever look at the bog in your yard and wonder, “What can I do with THAT area?”

Carla Glassman

By Carla Glassman, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

When dealing with soggy areas in your landscape, it’s essential to understand the underlying causes of the wetness and how to manage them effectively. Identifying the root issue is the first step toward improvement. Determine if the wet area is due to natural water saturation, faulty drainage, or runoff from impervious surfaces.

Some areas are just naturally wet, but to be sure, it is essential to rule out other problems like a broken sewer or water pipe. With underground issues ruled out, the next step is determining if the excess water is caused by impervious surface runoff (i.e., rooftops, sidewalks, or driveways.) If so, redirect the water to an area with better drainage.

If none of these issues are the problem, you may wonder, “Is it possible to fix it?” Often, the answer is yes. The solutions range from re-grading your yard and installing drains to working with the wet area and installing plants which grow well in wet conditions.

Some consider aggressive solutions such as adjusting the flow of the land. Doing so likely will require effort, equipment, time, and money. And possibly applying for a permit. Before moving any soil, check out the county’s Land Disturbing Activity Guide, and if necessary, call to determine if a permit is required. In Skagit County, you may need a permit for projects that:

• Exceed 100 cubic yards
• Modify drainage patterns in any way
• Has a depth or height of 3 feet or greater

You may try to “fix” the wet area by working with what you have, using less expensive or less extensive options. Soggy areas can be improved somewhat by aeration or adding compost or mulch. These improve soil structure in poorly drained soils by increasing soil aggregation. While mulch, compost, and aeration can improve overall soil health and drainage, they will not change the character of the underlying soil or the position on the landscape nor repair severely compacted or altered soil.

Fortunately, there is another option. There are a lot of beautiful plants that do very well in wet soils. Using the principle of “Right Plant, Right Place” or in this case “right purpose” you can install suitable plants in the area that will naturally slow runoff and allow the water to spread out.This will increase the permeability of the soil and also reduce the maintenance needs of the wet area.

Working in wet areas requires care to protect the soil. Cover bare soil with woody mulch; avoid walking or working on it when saturated. Choose plants that thrive in wet places. Landscaping in wet areas may look much like a rain garden planting when finished, because many of the same
plants will likely be happy in both places. However, installing a landscape in a wet area is different from installing a rain garden in your yard. Rain gardens are created on well-draining soils that can handle a lot of run-off directed into them. Unlike a rain garden, naturally wet areas do not have well-draining soils. They should not have additional runoff directed to them because this would cause further problems. If soil compaction or heavy soil type is part of the drainage problem, installing plants with good root structures will improve the soil structure by growing roots deeper and making pathways for the water to follow. Over time, this allows material from plants, insects, and microbes to increase the soil’s humus improving its ability to absorb water.

Consider Using Native Plants: Native plants are well adapted to our environment. They don’t require extra care, water, or fertilizer. More than that, wildlife depends on them and won’t survive without them. Red twig dogwood and Pacific sword fern are native and do well in moist environments.

Whether you use native plants, non-natives, or a mix, include plants of varying heights and root zones. Using varying heights and textural layers (different leaf types) is healthy for plants and wildlife and a beautiful technique. Mix various colors and textures for visual interest with a common thread that ties everything together through a consistent style.

Choosing Form and Function
Now, select plants keeping in mind the place they will be. For best results, know what your area is like during all the seasons of the year. Is your soggy spot in the sun or shade or something in between? Is it always soggy, somewhat soggy-to-damp, or does it dry out in the summer? Typically, an area will have some wetter areas, just like the zones in a rain garden.

Consider nearby physical restrictions like powerlines, underground pipes, or easements. A little planning at the beginning can save a lot of repair work in the future.

Select plants for the wet area as you would select plants for a rain garden based on the plant’s specific needs for soil type, sunlight or shade, moisture, etc. Selecting the “right plant” based on the plants needs saves time, money, and effort reducing fussing, tending, and possibly replacing later.

Zone 1 in a rain garden is the wettest area. Zone 1 plants must be able to tolerate periods of inundation (standing water.) Most rain gardens are not continually wet in Zone 1 because they are supposed to drain. They may even be totally dry for part of the summer.

Zone 2 in a rain garden is the next wettest area of a rain garden. Plants for Zone 2 are seldom inundated with water but usually damp.

Zone 3 of a rain garden is generally dry. Zone 3 plants would do well in the area whether or not there was a rain garden and may even need to be drought-tolerant. When selecting plants, choose plants that will be able to tolerate the amount of water inundation in your area. Zone 1 plants can tolerate wet conditions and seasonal flooding, so they are a good choice for your wet spot. From that group, choose plants that have the “right” light needs for your space.

Select plants depending on the degree of water inundation in your “wet” area. If your location is generally moist with seasonal wet, you might choose plants listed in the chart below suited to “Rain Garden Zone 2.” Many plants are less fussy and are able to do well in more than one zone. You may want to “hedge your bet” by selecting a variety of plants, increasing the odds of success.

Accept the challenge of wet spots in your garden as an opportunity to create a thriving ecosystem! By selecting plants that naturally filter water and develop robust root systems, you can improve the underlying soil structure while enhancing the beauty of your landscape. These resilient plants will not only thrive in the moisture but will also work to improve drainage over time, turning a soggy area into an area you can enjoy. Make the most of your garden's unique characteristics and watch it flourish!

Mark Your Calendar: Always the Saturday Before Mother’s Day
We’re growing 3,600 tomato plants, and over 4,000 flower and vegetable starts along with edible and ornamental perennials for you to bring home and plant your garden this season.

The following list is a compilation based on information from The Washington Native Plant Society, Great Plant Picks, Missouri Botanical Garden, Native Plants PNW, USDA Plant Database, oregonflora.org, and kingcounty.gov/goNative.

* = non-native    D = Deciduous   E = Evergreen  SE = Semi-evergreen

1@ = Tolerates seasonal flooding   2@ = Tolerates moderately wet sites   3@ = Tolerates seasonal dry

REFERENCES AND RESOURCES:

King County interactive native plant list which can be sorted by plant type, height, etc. Native Plants. King County.

Native landscaping plans:
Landscaping with Native Plants. King County

Information on Permits. Skagit County, Washington

Testing and Improving Soil Drainage. Iowa State University Extension

Don’t Just Landscape, Rainscape. Create beautiful landscapes that protect water quality and reduce runoff. Skagit County

What is Humus in Soil? Explore the Critical Advantages for Your Crops.

Enhancing Urban and Suburban Landscapes to Protect Pollinators. Oregon State University.

From soggy to sublime: Trees, shrubs and perennials that love soggy sites. (April 2014) Retrieved at: Oregon Live.com

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
Carla Glassman is a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener, Class of 2014.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: https://extension.wsu.edu/skagit/mg/

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Mark Your Calendar!

Skagit County Master Gardener Plant Fair is Saturday, May 10

Anticipation is Building for the Annual Event on Mother’s Day Weekend

By Kari Ranten, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Kari Ranten

Featuring thousands of plants for sale, the Skagit County Master Gardener Plant Fair is a local celebration of spring and gardening.

Gardeners across the region count on the plant fair as a place to purchase quality plants and look forward to gathering inspiration for the coming growing season. Did you know that all of the tomatoes – more than 3,600 plants – available at the plant fair are grown from seed by volunteer WSU Extension Master Gardeners? Not only that, the varieties grown are chosen because they are ideal for our climate.

The 31st annual Plant Fair is set for 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Saturday, May 10, 2025, at the Skagit County Fairgrounds. The event and parking are free, enter through the south gate of the fairgrounds. Attendees are encouraged to bring a wagon or wheelbarrow to help transport their selections. Boxes are available at the site and customers can leave purchased plants at a free plant parking area monitored by volunteers as they continue to shop and enjoy the plant fair. An ATM will be available on site.

3,600 Tomato Plants – 2,000 Flowering Annuals
2,000 Vegetable and Herb Starts
Hundreds of Perennials and Native Plants
Small Fruits: Grapes, Figs, Currants, Berries

“As an organization and a community of people who live and love all things gardening, we are looking forward to this amazing annual event,” said Master Gardener Claire Cotnoir, who, along with her husband and fellow Master Gardener Hank Davies, co-chairs the plant fair. “This is our way to inspire all gardeners by offering quality plants suited to growing successfully in our region. We enjoy the opportunity to share information and enthusiasm for gardening, along with educating the public about how to embrace gardening as a way to care for and protect the environment.”

The plant fair will offer thousands of plants for sale, including vegetables, tomatoes, herbs, perennials and native plant varieties. Most of the plants are grown or propagated by master gardener volunteers.

The plant fair is truly a highly anticipated event, as illustrated by those who waited in line at the gates last year. Some called their annual visit to the event a “Mother’s Day weekend tradition” for their family. One smiling woman, with a wheelbarrow in tow, proclaimed “It’s the only holiday I celebrate – Plant Fair Day!”

Need Tips on Growing Tomatoes?

Master Gardener Denny Organ, an expert in growing tomatoes in the region, will provide short workshop-style presentations with tips on planting, pruning and general care for tomatoes between 9 a.m. to noon on Saturday, May 10 at the Master Gardener Demonstration Booth. Between presentations, Denny will be available to answer one-on-one questions about growing tomatoes. Check at the master gardener information booth at the Plant Fair for specific times of the presentations.

In addition to plant sales, the Plant Fair will feature:

• More than 50 vendors will offer garden accessories, gifts, plants, garden art and hand-crafted items. Several food vendors will also be on site.
• Skagit County Master Gardeners will host an educational booth and display, with a focus on pollinators, firewise gardening and growing tomatoes.
• Master gardeners will staff a Plant Clinic at the fair to help address plant questions or concerns.
• Master gardeners will offer free tool sharpening, with a limit of one tool per customer.

The annual Skagit County Master Gardener Plant Fair is the primary fund-raising event run by the Skagit County Master Gardener Foundation (SCMGF). Proceeds enable the foundation to support master gardener outreach, events, education and activities. Beyond fundraising, the plant fair builds community awareness of the master gardener program, encourages community participation in gardening and growing local food, and inspires people to become master gardener volunteers.

Master gardener volunteers also maintain the Discovery Garden just west of Mount Vernon on Memorial Highway, which is open to the public daily as a showcase for the variety of plants that grow in the region.

Cherry, slicers, salad, paste, and dwarf are among the fifty tomato varieties available at the Plant Fair.

Now you own a lovely tomato plant. Read on to help your plant grow and thrive, producing delicious tomatoes throughout the season.

Soon to be a proud owner of a tomato plant? What’s next?

Many Skagit County Master Gardener Plant Fair customers are laser focused on one thing: Buying tomato plants. As they check out, with plants in hand, the question many have is what to do next with these amazing plants?

Past customers, many who have purchased tomatoes at the plant fair for several years running, express satisfaction with the product. Of course, each growing season is unique and 2024 presented some challenges with rain and cooler temperatures. Between the May plant fair and the end of the 2024 growing season, customers describe the tomato plants produced by master gardeners as healthy, hardy and offering a “really great yield.”

In the fall, master gardeners taste test 30+ varieties of tomatoes to select the varieties to grow for the Plant Fair.

Master gardeners grow all of the tomato plants from seed. The process begins in February to have them ready for the plant fair. Lights, heat mats and tender loving care help nurture the seeds to germination and on to developing into fledgling plants. As they grow, the tomatoes are transplanted into six-pack plugs, then four-inch pots and ultimately to the one-gallon pots available for sale.

Going into the plant fair, customers may check out the list of varieties available on the Skagit County Master Gardener website and make selections based on a desire for snacking, sauces, slicing and other tomato uses. All varieties are carefully chosen by master gardeners and tested for growing conditions in Skagit County. In addition, for a comprehensive A-Z listing of tomato varieties featuring go to the tomato selection tool on this website.

At the end of each season, master gardeners gather for a taste-test session of fruit from their plants to help inform future variety selection. Some of the varieties available for purchase at the plant fair will be marked as “Winner of Our MG Tomato Tasting Event.”

Tomatoes: What do I do next?
So, once you take home tomato plants at the mid-May plant fair, what should you do next to have success? Here are a few tips on how to plant and care for these fledgling tomatoes from master gardeners who head up the “Tomato Team” and other resources:

Hardening off: The tomato plants, in one-gallon pots, will have spent more than a month in an unheated greenhouse leading up to the plant sale. As temperatures warm, they will need gradual introduction to sunlight and the outdoors. Place the plants in a sheltered location near the house or other structure and expose the plants to indirect sunlight gradually. Start with one hour on the first day and add one hour each day, building up to a full day. Plants can tolerate direct sunlight after three to five days.

According to the Washington State University Extension Fact Sheet FS145E titled Growing Tomatoes in Home Gardens,“After a week, leave plants outside overnight. If temperatures drop below 50°F, keep them indoors . . . Do not plant them before the frost-free date for your area because spring frost can kill young tomato plants.” Plants should not be transplanted unprotected until nighttime temperatures stay above 45 to 50 degrees, which may not be until June, according to Vegetable Gardening in the Pacific Northwest by Seattle author Lorene Edwards Forkner.

If the people in the fun, creative hats (master gardeners) look a little giddy, it is because they have crossed the finish line, successfully raising nearly 10,000 healthy, happy plants for you to bring home and enjoy this summer.

Planting: Whether using a container or transplanting into the ground, plant in well-drained soil in a sunny location. Plant in a deep hole and cover the stem up to the bottom leaves with soil to inspire root growth and plant development.

Trench planting is also an option. Trench planting involves digging a trench about six inches deep, adding a tablespoon of super phosphate to the soil (well mixed), and laying the whole plant in the ground with only the very top of the plant exposed to the sunlight. For more information about trench planting, go to North Carolina State University Extension Publications, Growing Tomatoes in the Home Garden in the references below.

Growing in pots: Tomatoes do not like to be confined to small pots for too long. The master gardener tomatoes are sold in one-gallon pots, which will work for a while, however, be sure to have 10-gallon grow bags, pots, or buckets with holes drilled in the bottom at the ready when overnight temperatures are appropriate to transplant outdoors for the season. Remember, tomato plant roots can go more than six inches deep into the soil so the more room you give them in a pot the happier they will be. Also, consider growing determinate plants in pots and indeterminate in the ground if possible. Determinate plants top off at around five feet tall and are easier to grow in pots than indeterminate which are vining and will grow until fall frost. Another wonderful option available for pots or patio growing this year are dwarf varieties, also available at the plant fair.

Watering: Tomatoes will perform better if they are a little dry rather than soggy. For plants in pots, providing a plastic roof or clear plastic cloche to keep the rain off is helpful, but not required. “Water regularly and deeply since tomatoes are deep-rooted plants, but avoid overhead irrigation, which can encourage disease,” according to “Sunset Western Garden Book of Edibles.” Author Forkner suggests reducing watering near the end of the season to encourage fruit ripening.

Support: Indeterminate tomatoes, those that grow like vines, benefit from supports such as cages, trellises or pole supports. Determinate varieties are more compact and bushier, reaching a fixed height.

Light and exposure: In the Pacific Northwest, placing pots along a south-facing wall is best for tomato success. A garden space with full sun for at least six hours per day, according to the Washington State University Extension Fact Sheet FS145E.

Potential problems: Tomatoes can be impacted by a variety of diseases and pests. Research and select cultivars that are disease resistant. Washington State University Extension Fact Sheet FS145E lists a variety of potential problems, including:

• Late blight: The fungal disease appears as gray-green coloration on leaves, stems and fruit, turning to dark blotches on the fruit. The fact sheet suggests avoiding over watering, removing infected plants or plant parts when symptoms are noticed, but do not compost them. Give plants ample space to support air circulation.
• Slugs: Common in Western Washington, slugs can completely consume younger plants, damage foliage of more mature plants and cause “hollowing damage” on fruit. To protect plants, remove weeds and debris, encourage predators; hand-pick and kill slugs that feed at night and use chemical-based baits with caution.
• Blossom End Rot: According to the University of Wisconsin, Wisconsin Division of Horticulture Extension, this condition often occurs on the first fruits formed on plants. Initially, water-soaked spots (resembling small bruises) appear, most often on the bottoms of fruits and include dark, leathery, sunken areas on the blossom end of the tomato. This is caused by a lack of calcium uptake and conditions where there is too much or too little water. Water evenly and mulch the soil to retain moisture during dry periods. Avoid practices that would damage roots, such as cultivating too near plants thereby cutting roots, use a good Cal-Mag fertilizer and do not “wash” out soil nutrient with heavy over watering.
• An additional resource regarding pests and diseases with tomatoes is the University of Maryland Extension’s Key to Common Problems of Tomatoes

Harvest and use: Harvest when the fruit reaches mature color. Tomatoes can be used in a wide range of preparations from fresh to frozen or dried to canned. For more information, check out the National Center for Home Food Preservation (http://www.uga.edu/nchfp/) or Oregon State University Extension Service’s site focused on canning tomatoes and tomato products (https://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/pub/pnw300-s).

REFERENCES:
Fredericks, G., Cowan, J. and Daniels, C. (2014) Vegetables: Growing Tomatoes in Home Gardens. Washington State University Extension Fact Sheet #FS145E. 

Forkner, L. (2012) Vegetable Gardening in the Pacific Northwest. Portland, OR. Timber Press.

North Carolina State University Extension Publications, Growing Tomatoes in the Home Garden.

Skagit County Master Gardener Tomato Variety Selection Tool

Sunset. (2010) Sunset Western Garden Book of Edibles: The Complete A to Z Guide to Growing Your Own Vegetables, Herbs, and Fruits.” Menlo Park, California. Sunset Publishing Corporation.

Key to Common Problems of Tomatoes University of Maryland Extension.

Blossom End Rot. (2024) University of Wisconsin-Madison, Wisconsin Horticulture Division of Extension.

Washington State University CAHNRS and WSU Extension Hortsense.  

Looking Ahead to Summer-
Join us for a Free Open House
Saturday, June 28 – 10 am – 2 pm

Explore the three gardens in one location: the WSU Extension Master Gardener Discovery Garden, the NW Fruit Garden, and the Salal Native Plant Garden at the Discovery Day Open House. Talk to the volunteers that manage each of the gardens.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
Kari Ranten is a retired journalist and health care communicator who became a certified Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener in 2024.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Small Changes Can Make a Big Impact in Reducing Food Waste

Master Gardener Katryna Barber and WSU Extension’s Diane Smith discuss food waste and how we can help the planet by managing it better.

By Katryna Barber, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener and Diane Smith, WSU Extension faculty member

The Rising Cost of Food Waste
Food prices are changing, impacting how we plan and use food. This isn’t a brand-new phenomenon. Food costs are constantly fluctuating. Cooks must adapt and find a way to feed people with what they have. Sometimes, it leads to some very tasty creations. Food prices these days are just one aspect of a larger situation that is getting more attention: Food Waste and what to do about it.

The average US family of four discards approximately $1,600 worth of produce annually. This waste isn’t limited to lost money paid for food at the grocery store. It also includes the wasted resources used to produce and distribute the food and the negative environmental impact that occurs when food is thrown away.

In our country, 1 in 6 people is food-security challenged, a fancy term for not having enough food. Happily, there is something we can do about it: eat more of the food we buy and not wasting it.

Cooking with scraps isn’t a new idea, but it has been refreshed and replated. What we can create with food “scraps” is incredible. This is a movement towards eating as much as possible of what we buy so it doesn’t get thrown away. For example, do you eat the leaves of radishes or carrots? They are edible. Do you use the liquid left in the can of garbanzo beans? How about corn cobs?

Learn new ways of reducing food waste
at these FREE events

Celebrate at MoNA
Sculpting Sustainability:
Solutions for Skagit Food Waste
Saturday, April 12 ~ 1 pm

at the Museum of Northwest Art in La Connor
This event is free, but registration is required.

Know & Grow:
Preventing Food Waste
Tuesday, April 15 ~ 1 pm

at NWREC Sakuma Auditorium, 16650 SR 536,  Mount Vernon
Free, no registration required.
From Waste to Wisdom
As a professor of Food & Consumer Sciences, Diane Smith has spent more than 30 years exploring and teaching about food and nutrition. She is passionate about helping people use food more mindfully.

Smith’s focus on food waste prevention began a couple of years ago when she took a sabbatical to study the connection between climate and diet. She traveled to Denmark, Italy, and NYC to explore food waste prevention activities that are happening elsewhere. The answer became clear when studying how our food choices affect the climate and what we can do to reduce that impact: keep food out of our landfills. We can do that by using the food we buy and not letting it go to waste. The expense is the most obvious reason people should care about their food waste.

When we waste food, we waste everything that goes into producing it. This includes the hidden costs, as well as our money. Ask a child where milk comes from, and many will say, “The grocery store.” They don’t realize how many resources are used to grow and get the food to our kitchens or restaurants: water, manual labor (planting, tending, harvesting), transportation, mechanical labor, fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides, electricity, packaging, and storage. When food is wasted, so is all the energy, time, and resources it takes to produce it. Those resources could have been saved. Our hard-earned money could have been saved.

In the end, we pay to throw our trash away. But there is no “away.” Our landfills are filling up and creating greenhouse gases that are contributing to climate change. Organic material sent to a landfill is buried and decomposes without air, a process called anaerobic digestion. The bacteria living in this anaerobic environment exhale carbon dioxide and methane gas. Humans can deal with small amounts of these gases but not in larger quantities or for long periods of time. Human exposure to these gasses, often referred to as “greenhouse gases,” increases damage to the body’s systems. The cardiovascular, respiratory, reproductive, central nervous, immune, and digestive systems can be affected. The good news is that we can reduce the health risks by changing our habits and behaviors.

Find uses for food scraps before composting
Surprisingly, composting is not the first and best option for dealing with food waste, such as banana peels and coffee grounds. The new EPA chart suggests feeding livestock or pets first, then composting, and then, as a last resort, send it to the landfill.

In this chart, you can see the hierarchy of the best ways to deal with food waste. The main goal is to keep food out of landfills. Some studies suggest that 8% of global greenhouse gas emissions come from landfills. The most significant contributor to this problem is food waste. Washington State Department of Ecology has been focusing on reducing food waste and is committed to lowering landfill-disposed organic material by 75% by 2030. Right now, Washingtonians place 1.2 million tons of food waste into landfills per year. This waste is food from restaurants, institutional food services, and households. About 35% of this food is edible. Of that edible food waste, 37% of it is generated by households; 60% is from the commercial sector.

Smith employed the notion of cooking with scraps when invited to discuss the topic of food waste; she wanted to make it more fun, hands-on, and practical. When talking about concepts of edible and nonedible food waste, she wanted to give options to her audience to have them reimagine how to use what Americans consider nonedible food parts. Just because a part of the food is culturally nonedible does not mean it is trash. While not a new concept, cooking with ends and stems has been reimagined for modern kitchens as a creative and sustainable approach to cooking. Different cultures, customs, and culinary uses of food parts make cooking adventurous and fun. It’s about transforming what might typically be discarded into delicious, nutritious additions to your meals.

Innovative chefs and food writers around the country have created excellent guides to help you master the art of waste-free cooking. Check the internet for no-waste cooking, keeping food out of the garbage, a zero-waste diet, using peels, cores, rinds, and stems in meals, etc. The ideas are amazing!

Cooking with Scraps: Turn Your Peels, Cores, Rinds, and Stems into Delicious Meals by Lindsay-Jean Hard is a comprehensive guide that transforms traditional food scraps into sophisticated cuisine.

Waste Not: How to Get the Most from Your Food by the James Beard Foundation features recipes and tips from renowned chefs.

Root to Stem: A Seasonal Guide to Natural Recipes and Remedies for Everyday Life by Alex Laird focuses on using whole ingredients for both culinary and medicinal purposes.

The No-Waste Vegetable Cookbook: Recipes and Techniques for Whole Plant Cooking by Linda Ly specifically addresses how to use every part of your vegetables.

IKEA’s Scraps Book is a creative digital cookbook featuring recipes from prominent chefs focusing on recipes using ordinary kitchen scraps. Download here >

Discover how items we often discard-such as broccoli stems, citrus peels, and herb stems-can become the stars of our next meal. This can save money while reducing waste. From turning stale bread into creative croutons to transforming vegetable scraps into flavorful broths, the possibilities are endless. When we keep this awareness of what it takes for food to get to us in the front of our consciousness, we can more easily make mindful choices when buying our food and remember to use food well.

We need to be more mindful, or conscious, about using food well, creating little waste, and remembering that food is a finite resource. Being mindful means enjoying the food we prepare and serve, considering the miles the food has traveled. It means appreciating the personal effort spent nourishing ourselves, our family, and our friends. If we purchased a basket of strawberries, would we intentionally let it rot? Being mindful means using the food we buy to its highest purpose. Planning what to buy, storing the food for its longest shelf life, and using food to feed ourselves and family are ways of being mindful about and honoring our food.

We all have busy, full lives. How does one get started? Is it hard?

Smith suggests several approachable ways to reduce food waste:

 Be Practical–Start Small  

• Create meal plans: Consider the cycle of the food you buy for different opportunities to reduce food waste.
• Inventory existing supplies: Know what you have already and what needs to be consumed. Educate yourself about expiration and use-by dates and safe storage techniques.
• Shop with a list and eat before shopping (this helps avoid impulse buys).
• Buy the amount of food you need for the meals you plan to serve; this reduces leftovers.

Washingtonians place 1.2 million tons of food waste into landfills every year. About 35% of this food is edible. Of that edible food waste, 37% of it is generated by households. © Adobe Stock

Planned Leftovers
As you consider what to prepare for a meal, consider leftovers so you can plan to use all that you cook. Once a week, enjoy a Leftover Day (think Taco Tuesday followed by Waste-Free Wednesdays). Use visual reminders like the “Eat Me First” sign to gobble up those leftovers instead of tossing them.
Use Everything
Cook with vegetable scraps (like radish leaves and carrot tops). Save aquafaba (chickpea liquid) for baking, use corn cobs for stock, and repurpose celery ends and leaves. Freeze, can, or dry scraps for later. Feed livestock. Look for new creative ways to use leftovers and scraps.

Admittedly, a change in habits takes some effort. It has been very easy to throw food away in this country. Try considering why you prepare food the way you do. For example, take a rib of celery to put into soup. How much of either end of the rib do you cut off? Are those ends really inedible? Could they actually be used now or in another dish?

Check the websites in the references below for quick ideas on using dabs of leftovers, peelings, pits, and tidbits: freeze-drying, fruit leathers, baking, and soup stocks. We think you’ll be surprised and inspired. 

Other benefits of using food more mindfully include gathering food before it gets composted and distributing it to people in need as gleaners and food banks do.

If you are entrepreneurial, consider how to use a waste product and squeeze the last drop from the garbage. Here are examples of what is already being done.

• A juice company uses unwanted watermelon rinds to make flavored water.
• A pickle company in Denver reuses water that was used to make pickles. The water’s second act is in a Bloody Mary mix.
• A Danish distillery offers apple farmers a bottle of cider in exchange for their unwanted apples.
• In 2022, the local gleaners’ group diverted 1.4 million pounds of food from entering the landfill

Every household, even people living alone, can make a difference.
After completing her studies, Smith wondered how much of a difference one person or even one household could make. She did a food inventory and waste audit and was surprised at the amount being wasted. This type of inventory and audit can teach anyone where to start. Taking charge of how we cook and eat is one way to generate hope for the planet. Use the example of The Butterfly Effect: This proverb illustrates that seemingly inconsequential events can set off a chain of unpredictable consequences. Tossing out just one slice of bread into the landfill might not change anything. Still, if every household tosses bread into the landfill, it contributes to climate warming and indirectly results in climate change. The reverse is also true. Eat the slice of bread.

This past year, the staff at the Skagit Extension office decided to “walk the talk.” The Food Waste Prevention team advocated for office changes, including using leftovers discarded from lunches and food demos to feed the worms in the new worm bin. (Exceptions include onions, garlic, citrus, hot peppers, meat, dairy, etc.) The staff contacted the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners, and champions Herta Kurp, Claire Cotnoir, and Hank Davies to design and build a state-of-the-art worm bin. Fondly referred to as the Worm Chalet, it is just outside the Extension office front door. The composting area signage teaches about the foods that worms can eat, including which lunch scraps go in, and which scraps cannot be eaten. Since August, the office staff has fed the worms over 200 lbs. of scraps. The rich worm castings are created as the worms process the food and are used to enrich garden beds. The effort also included diverting paper towels to the green bin rather than the trash. Since the start, the office has filled and diverted 90 bags of paper towels to green waste recycling.

Efforts to reduce food waste are gaining momentum at state, national, and international levels. Check out these examples of government agencies working to reduce food waste and greenhouse gases:

• In Washington, the Department of Ecology supports a state-wide effort with the Use Food Well campaign and provides consumer resources to help reduce food waste.
• The United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) provide a roadmap for addressing food waste on a global scale. Specifically, SDG 12.3 aims to halve per capita global food waste at the retail and consumer levels and reduce food losses along production and supply chains by 2030. This goal underscores the interconnectedness of food waste reduction with broader sustainability efforts, including poverty alleviation (SDG 1), zero hunger (SDG 2), and climate action (SDG 13).
• In the US, the EPA’s 2030 Food Loss and Waste Reduction Goal aims to cut food waste in half by 2030, while initiatives like the US Food Loss and Waste 2030 Champions program engage businesses in this mission (EPA, 2023).

 Mark Your Calendar: Always the Saturday Before Mother’s Day
We’re growing 3,500 tomato plants, and over 3,000 flower and vegetable starts along with edible and ornamental perennials for you to bring home and plant your garden this season.

How can people become more involved in combating food waste?
This coming fall, WSU will be offering a Climate Steward Certificate program in Skagit and Island counties. The purpose of the six-week hybrid course starting in mid-September is to improve people’s literacy and understanding of climate change. The Climate Steward program explores how policy supports or hinders climate change. The goal is to create a cadre of climate stewards trained to be liaisons for the community. Keep an eye on the Extension website: https://extension.wsu.edu/skagit/ or call 360-428-4270 for more information.

Here locally, on Saturday, April 12, 2025 (1 p.m. – 2:30 p.m.), the Skagit Food Waste Prevention Coalition is hosting a day of learning “Sculpting Sustainability: Solutions for Skagit Food Waste” at the Museum of Northwest Art (MoNA).The fun, family-friendly event includes activities for kids and a panel discussion featuring local culinary experts giving an overview of the Skagit food landscape. They will provide ideas and outline solutions already in play! The cost is free, but an RSVP is required. Learn more at: https://www.monamuseum.org/events/foodwasteprevention

Join the movement to reduce food waste! Get started by doing your own food inventory and audit. Discover new recipes, learn how to cook with scraps, save money, help the environment, and positively impact our local community.

RESOURCES:

Websites discussing the connection between climate and diet:

Climate is Action. Chicago Field Museum.

National Food Museum

Skagit County WSU Extension: Food Waste Prevention Program.

Washington State Department of Ecology: Use Food Well Program. 

Resources for recipes and learning to cook with scraps:

James Beard Foundation (2018) Waste Not: How to Get the Most from Your Food. Rizzoli Press

Laird, A.(2019) Root to Stem: A Seasonal Guide to Natural Recipes and Remedies for Everyday Life. Penguin Life Press

Ly, L. (2020) The No-Waste Vegetable Cookbook: Recipes and Techniques for Whole Plant Cooking. Harvard Common Press

Hard, L. (2018) Cooking with Scraps. Workman Publishing Company

Project Drawdown

www.Niehs.nih.gov National Institute of Environmental Sciences, Health and Education

Naiyer, S. (2022) Effect of Greenhouse Gases on Human Health. Springer Nature Link. Retrieved from: https://link.springer.com/chapter/10.1007/978-981-16-4482-5_5

Eat this first sign download 

ABOUT THE AUTHORS:
Katryna Barber is a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener, Class of 2019. She has completed the Skagit County Solid Waste Division Master Composter Recycler Training. Katryna currently helps maintain the compost area at the Discovery Garden on Memorial Highway West of Mount Vernon.

Diane Smith, RD, MA, is a Professor, Food & Consumer Sciences, Food Access & Health Promotion, WSU Extension Youth and Family, Skagit County. Her research and publications include food access/food security, direct-to-consumer marketing, and program implementation.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Hooray for Hydrangeas

Gardeners are quick to show you their favorite hydrangeas, but many question how and when to prune them

By Diana Wisen and Janine Wentworth, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners

Authors Diana Wisen and Janine Wentworth

Hydrangeas, with their stunning blooms, have been captivating flower enthusiasts for centuries. The ability of some varieties to change color based on soil pH adds an element of magic. They can be big and bold or lacey and layered. All varieties grow well in sunny locations, perhaps with some afternoon shade-all varieties like acidic, moist, humus-rich soil that drains well. While hydrangeas can tolerate neglect, they do better if watered in the high heat of summer. Additionally, a layer of arborist chip mulch spread well beyond the outer drip line of the branches will help retain moisture.

How to Prune Hydrangeas
Hydrangeas do well in the Pacific Northwest, thriving in our climate and native soil. They do not need to be pruned to do well, but many homeowners like a more tidy look, which requires pruning. Others prune to keep their hydrangea varieties smaller than their normal growth habit. Sometimes, severe winter cold causes damage to the current season’s buds, and you may want to remove the damage. For most varieties, the best time to do all of this is in the spring before they leaf out.

The first step to pruning any hydrangea is to know what kind it is. Different kinds are pruned differently, and if you don’t know what kind you are pruning, you may be cutting off all the potential flowers by pruning at the wrong time. Save the plant tag and learn to recognize the variety you have. That is the key to a successful start.

Hydrangeas start blooming in mid-summer and bloom for a long time. There is no need to prune in winter. In fact, leaving on the dead flower heads can protect emerging buds from freezing. Hydrangeas are deciduous, but their leaves hang on well into fall. Leave them where they fall on the soil.

Learning to recognize dead wood can be tricky with hydrangeas. Older stems often look dead, but they are not. Dead stems are usually three or more years old. On some specimens, the dead stems may even be ten years old. To identify dead wood, look for stems with no buds or leaves. These can be cut back to the base of the plant. If you are unsure, start cutting from the tip of the branch and look for a greenish interior on the stem, or scrape the bark with your fingernail. If it’s brown, crisp, and very dry, it’s dead. You can cut the dead wood on any hydrangea back to the ground. You can also prune out wayward-looking stems or those that are too crowded.

The most common kind of hydrangea is H. macrophylla or bigleaf hydrangea, of which there are two types: mophead and lacecap. © Crowell Photography

A lacecap hydrangea has flatter inflorescences or flower clusters with small sterile flowers around the edges and tiny fertile flowers in the center, giving it a delicate lacy appearance© Pexels.com | Dayong Tein

Now for the Differences
The most common kind of hydrangea is H. macrophylla, or bigleaf hydrangea, of which there are two types: mophead and lacecap. All bigleaf hydrangeas bloom on wood formed the previous year and on buds set last summer. When all danger of a hard frost is past in late spring, remove the dead flower heads by cutting back to a pair of healthy fat buds, which will be your flowers. Slender buds are the leaves. Even if you choose not to remove or prune the dead flower heads from last season, H. macrophylla will still bloom just fine.

The standard bigleaf hydrangea wants to be big and tall genetically. It is difficult to reduce the size of a mature hydrangea. If pruned hard, it will grow back to its original height but have weak stems and no flowers that year. It is better to cut select older stems to the ground to reduce the size of the plant. Doing this will shorten your plant and will necessarily sacrifice flowers. Some newer cultivars have been bred to stay small. These may be a better choice for your landscape than constantly pruning to reduce the size of a large hydrangea.

A popular mophead type is ‘Nikko Blue’. The flowers are big, rounded heads consisting of all sterile flowers. If the blossoms begin to turn pink and you prefer blue, make the soil more acidic by adding aluminum sulfate to the soil in the early spring. It may take more than one year and additional servings of aluminum sulfate to achieve blue blossoms. Note: Concrete sidewalks or foundations can leach lime into the soil resulting in pink hydrangea blossoms. However, some hydrangea varieties are naturally pink and will not turn blue in acid soils.

A popular lacecap hydrangea is ‘Mariesii’, with flatter inflorescences, or flower clusters, with small sterile flowers around the edges and tiny fertile flowers in the center, giving it a delicate lacy appearance. Lacecaps do not typically grow as tall as their mophead cousins.

Panicle hydrangea flowers are large, cone-shaped, up to 12 inches, blooming on sturdy stems, sometimes up to 10 feet tall. Panicle hydrangeas are best pruned in early spring to promote new flowering wood. © Ginny Bode, Photographer

Smooth hydrangeas (H. arborescens) like this cultivar ‘Annabelle’ have large snowball-like clusters and bloom on new growth of the current season so it can be pruned to the ground in early spring, leaving 2-4 inches. © Crowell Photography

Another popular hydrangea is H. paniculata. ‘Limelight’ and Grandiflora ‘PeeGee’ are popular panicle cultivars with many more on the market. Panicle hydrangea flowers are large, cone-shaped, up to 12 inches in length, and bloom on sturdy stems, sometimes to 10 feet tall. Flower color varies from creamy white to pale green, transitioning to pink hues as they mature later in the summer.

Panicle hydrangeas bloom on new wood, meaning the flower buds form on stems growing this season. Thus, you should prune all the previous season’s stems to two or three pairs of buds in the spring, which will bloom in the coming summer, giving you a low structure. You can also do selective pruning and cut some older stems way back while leaving some a little longer. If you don’t prune it all, the flowers will be so high up that you will not be able to enjoy them after a few years. Panicle hydrangeas are best pruned in early spring to promote new flowering wood.

Another kind of hydrangea is H. arborescens, or smooth hydrangea. An old and still popular cultivar is ‘Annabelle’. It has large snowball-like clusters of white flowers, which are white regardless of soil acidity. The flowers may fade to a soft pink near the end of the season.

Smooth hydrangeas flower on new growth of the current season, so stems can be pruned to 2-4 inches from the ground in early spring. Most have a rounded growth habit to 5 feet in height and width. There are newer cultivars on the market that are bred to stay smaller.

A hydrangea gaining popularity in the Pacific Northwest is H. quercifolia, commonly known as oakleaf hydrangea. Though native to the Southeastern United States, oakleaf hydrangeas do exceptionally well in the PNW and are known for spectacular fall color. The flowers and the leaves turn rich shades of red, orange, and purple in the fall and can last several months for additional seasonal interest. Its leaves look like large oak leaves and stay on the plant well into fall.

Oakleaf hydrangeas are one of the easiest hydrangeas to care for. They do not need to be pruned except to keep them out of a walkway. Plant them where they can have plenty of space to look their magnificent best, because over-pruning makes for weak, floppy stems. Plant them in full sun for good color.

H. anomala petiolaris, commonly called climbing hydrangea or hydrangea vine, needs support such as a tree trunk or fence to cling to; otherwise, it will spread among neighboring plants and be challenging to care for. Be patient; climbing hydrangeas are slow to begin blooming, sometimes waiting 3 to 5 years to begin flowering. They need very little pruning, and once established, climbing hydrangeas bloom on new shoots. You can deadhead the spent flowers if you wish. However, this variety can grow to 50 feet tall or more, so plan accordingly. And be forewarned-deer love to eat this kind of hydrangea

There are other kinds of hydrangeas: H. serrata and H. aspera, commonly known as mountain hydrangeas, are native to Japan and Korea. These are not widely planted in the Pacific Northwest. Mountain hydrangeas bloom on the previous year’s wood.

New cultivars are constantly being developed. A little over 20 years ago, a remontant (reblooming in same season) hydrangea was discovered in Minnesota. Years of intensive breeding trials resulted in a new, reblooming bigleaf hydrangea cultivar branded Endless Summer^®. The world of hydrangeas changed dramatically with this cold hardy hydrangea that would reliably bloom on both old wood and new wood the same summer, offering an extended season of fresh blooms. Since then many cultivars of repeat blooming hydrangeas have been released. These reblooming hydrangeas should be pruned only after the first blooming period.

Hydrangeas are a beautiful, easy-care additions to your landscape, providing cut or dried flowers and color to the landscape throughout their long bloom season. The stunning varieties require minimal pruning if planted in the correct location for size and growth habits. Always read and save the plant tag. Study your plant and learn its growth habit by observation throughout the season. Using these basic tips, your hydrangeas should bloom successfully year after year.

Listed below you will find a number of excellent resources for learning more about hydrangeas, including a book by Dr. Michael Dirr who identified the first reblooming hydrangea and worked with it to develop the cultivars branded under the name Endless Summer^®.

Mark Your Calendar: Always the Saturday Before Mother’s Day

We’re growing 3,500 tomato plants, and over 3,000 flower and vegetable starts along with edible and ornamental perennials for you to bring home and plant your garden this season.

RESOURCES:
Crosbie, C. (2007) Easy Pruning: Simple Steps to Success. Royal Horticultural Society and DK Publishing

Turnball, C. (2021) Guide to Pruning. (3^rd Edition) Sasquatch Books

Kourik, R. (1987) Hands on Gardener – Pruning. Workman Publishing, New York, New York.

Joyce, D. (1999) Pruning & Training. Eyewitness Garden Handbooks. DK Publishing.

Bird, R. (2006) Pruning Trees, Shrubs, and Climbers. Anness Publishing.

Reich, L. (2010) The Pruning Book. The Taunton Press.

Dirr, M. (2024) “Hydrangeas for American Gardens.” Timber Press.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Diana Wisen has been a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener since 1991 and is the coordinator of the Hardy Fuchsia Garden at the Discovery Garden.

Janine Wentworth is a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener, Class of 2018. She is the coordinator of the Front Door Garden, the most recent addition to the Discovery Garden on SR 536 west of Mount Vernon.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Warmer Summers Impact Local Rhododendrons

From sun scorch to lace bug, local gardeners protect their beloved rhododendrons with these conscientious tips.

By Sonja Nelson, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Author Sonja Nelson

Rhododendrons in our gardens, along with the native state flower Rhododendron macrophyllum, the Western or Pacific rhododendron in our woodlands, are facing the vagaries of climate change here in the Pacific Northwest as well as worldwide. Gardeners in our moderate climate can no longer assume our benevolent climate will continue its unstinting support for the genus Rhododendron. According to the World Meteorological Organization, the average global temperature in 2024 was the warmest year on record at about 2.7° F or 1.55° C above preindustrial levels. Higher temperatures do not bode well for rhododendrons. They like moderation!

Rhododendrons have a long history in the Pacific Northwest. Native Americans used the flowers of rhododendrons in their dance rituals long before western plant hunter Archibald Menzies identified the R. macrophyllum. Menzies was the surgeon-botanist for Captain George Vancouver on board the British ship ‘Discovery’ in 1792. The R. macrophyllum, or Western rhododendron, was sent to King George III and introduced to the Kew Gardens in London. The discovery brought together the British and American plant people who eventually produced a creative milieus communities of rhododendron enthusiasts that made the rhododendron the “King of Shrubs” on both sides of the Atlantic.

References to the Western rhododendron (Rhododendron macrophyllum) date back to native Americans using rhododendron flowers in their dance rituals long before the late 1700s. © Photo: Sonja Nelson

One hundred years after Menzies documented finding the Western rhododendron, the state of Washington sought a representative flower to display in the 1893 Chicago World Fair exhibit. The Washington State Fair Commission asked the state’s women to decide. A letter-writing campaign began, pitting the native rhododendron against, among others, the clover. (The vote was Western rhododendron 7,704 and clover 5,729.) It was officially designated the Washington State flower in 1959.

However, between the time the Western rhododendron was presented at the Chicago World Fair, rhododendron species from Asia, particularly the Himalayas, had been discovered by dedicated British plant hunters and sent back to Britain to adorn gardens there with their vibrant colors and to hybridize. Many Asian species and hybrids were also brought to America, where nurseries introduced them to the Pacific Northwest. Gardeners welcomed them with enthusiasm and love. And the rhodies loved them back with their stunning performance!

Meanwhile, Washington state’s native Western rhododendron grew in its native woodlands as the quietly attractive relative of the more flamboyant Himalayan species. In the 1970s the Western rhododendrons regained popularity as gardening with native plants became popular with the backing of  WSU Extension and the Washington Native Plant Society. In 1979, the First World Climate Conference declared climate change a global issue, and rhododendron gardeners’ concern turned to the native Western rhododendron and its environment, along with concern for their rhododendron species and hybrids from afar. The natural environment of the Pacific Northwest, so well suited for much of the genus Rhododendron, was becoming jeopardized by temperature increases and other disturbances to its blissful climate.

The complexity of a warming climate makes it difficult to predict precisely how rhododendrons will be impacted by our specific climate and what to do if it does. For instance, if temperatures increased enough to leave visible sun spots on the leaves of rhododendrons, the rhododendrons could simply be moved to a site with partial shade. However, the effect of a warming climate on plants is not always straightforward.

One solution to protect rhododendron gardens from climate change damage is to find varieties-both species and hybrids-that are tolerant of temperature increase and ensuing weather extremes.

A member of the American Rhododendron Society, C.J. Patterson of Massachusetts, has focused his interest in rhododendrons on finding drought-tolerant rhododendrons for East Coast gardens. He writes that “rhododendrons, in general, are mostly very resistant to dry conditions once they are established,” citing R. carolinianum, R. maximum, and R. catawbiense as drought tolerant. He says one of the most drought-tolerant rhododendron hybrids is the hybrid ‘PJM’ (R. minus var. Carolinian Group x R. dauricum) and other hybrids of the same cross.

The director of the German Rhododendron Society, Hartwig Schepker, supports the idea that the genus Rhododendron is diverse enough to cope with the challenges posed by extreme climate conditions, saying we find them or create new hybrids that will be up to the job.

Another rhododendron expert is Glen Jamieson, the editor of the Journal American Rhododendron Society, who often writes about the impact of climate change on rhododendrons, which, he says, has been relatively minor annually. In coming publications, he plans to summarize the weather impacts on his garden in British Columbia over the past 40 years, where there have been extreme cold, heat, precipitation, and wind events-all of which can be attributed to a changing climate.

Since it is difficult, if not impossible, to predict precisely the effects of climate change on rhododendrons in the future, conscientious basic care is the best way to help them survive hard times in the future. Washington State University lists watering, fertilizing, and mulching as basic care.

Basic Care for Rhododendrons
Washington State University Extension recommends this regimen of basic care:

Watering

• Water rhododendrons at least once a week, or when the top inch of soil feels dry.
• Avoid waterlogged soil, which can damage rhododendrons.
• Water well in the fall to prepare for winter

Fertilizing

• Use a fertilizer made for acid-loving plants.
• Fertilize in the spring when buds swell and in the fall after flowering.
• Follow the product label recommendations.

Mulching

• Use coarse organic mulch, like wood chips, to cover the root zone.
• Keep mulch at least 4 inches deep, but don’t let it touch the base of the plant.
• Mulch helps conserve water, reduce weeds, and moderate soil temperatures

Other Tips

• Plant rhododendrons in well-drained acidic soil
• Avoid dense or compacted soil
• Provide shade or semi-shade
• Prune out dead flowers
• Avoid overhead watering
• Maintain good air circulation
• Prevent injury to reduce the chance of infection
• Clean up and destroy fallen leaves

A Unique Opportunity to Observe Local Climate Change Impact
The coordinators of the various gardens within the WSU Extension Master Gardener Discovery Garden west of Mount Vernon were questioned about possible damage in their gardens due to recent summers with high temperatures. Five coordinators reported no change, and four coordinators reported slight changes. Ironically, six coordinators reported damage from unusual cold spells. The Rhododendron Garden coordinator, however, reported extensive damage to a large planting of small-leaved rhododendrons due to warming temperatures.

Rhododendrons are divided into two natural divisions: the lepidotes and the elepidotes. Small-leaved rhododendrons belong to the lepidote division based on the tiny scales on the undersides of their leaves. Elepidotes do not have scales and tend to be large-leaved.

Sun scorch on the leaves of rhododendrons has long been an occasional problem for gardeners, but the warming caused by climate change has introduced a new, insidious avenue for damage–the rhododendron lace bug (Stephanitis rhododendri). Believed to have migrated from California, lace bugs have taken advantage of the longer growing season in the Pacific Northwest and can complete their life cycle, where, in 2023, in the Rhododendron Garden, it laid eggs and, as a result, destroyed a planting of rhododendrons.

Rhododendron lace bug (Stephanitis rhododendri Horvath) © Insect Images Photographers: Seastone, L. and B. Parks

Azalea lace bug (Stephanitis pyrioides) © Photo: Jim Baker, North Carolina State University, Bugwood.org

The lace bug affected rhododendrons with small leaves, mainly in the island meadow section of the Rhododendron Garden, namely hybrids ‘Ramapo,’ ‘Ginny Gee,’ and ‘Patty Bee.’

The rhododendron lace bug has one generation per year. It overwinters as eggs laid on the underside of leaves. Nymphs are about 1/8 inch long and are spiny. Adults are about 1/8 inch long and whitish tan with lacy-looking wings. Damage is usually apparent by early to mid-July. The lace bug sucks on the undersides of leaves and causes stippling on the upper surface of the leaves and tar-like deposits of excrement on the lower surface. Repeated infestations may result in yellowed, sickly plants. Spraying the undersides of the plants to remove the lace bugs was considered impossible because the leaves grow so densely and so close to the ground; thus the affected plants were removed. New planting will take place in 2025.

The related azalea lace bug (Stephanitis pyrioides) has four to five life cycles annually. It infects rhododendrons also but has not been found in the Rhododendron Garden section of the Discovery Garden. Both types of lace bug overwinter.

Lacewing insect © Insect Images: Photographer: Johnny N. Dell

The lace bug is not to be confused with lacewing insects (Chrysoperla species) which are native to the Pacific Northwest and important natural predators providing biological control of aphids.

Treatment for Lace Bug
For non-chemical treatment, Washington State University recommends hand removal of adults and nymphs regularly to limit the amount of visible damage. This can be done with a strong spray of water.

If you choose to use a chemical treatment, two recommended pesticides that are legal in Washington are:     

• Safer Brand BioNEEM Multi-Purpose Insecticide and Repellent Concentrate [Organic] Active ingredient: azadirachtin [EPA registration number: 70051-6-42697]
• Safer Brand Garden Defense Multi-Purpose Spray Concentrate [Organic]
  Active ingredient: clarified hydrophobic extract of neem oil [EPA registration number: 70051-2-42697]

The best time to treat is May and June. For more information, download the WSU fact sheet on rhododendrons and lace bugs

The Rhododendron Garden in the Discovery Garden allows the public to view plants as they grow in our specific climate. The damage to some of the small-leaved rhododendrons is sad to see, but it gives gardeners the knowledge to make necessary changes in their gardens to keep them beautiful.

Soon, spring will once again bring forth the eye-catching, luscious blooms on the rhododendron hybrids planted in our gardens and the quietly elegant blooms of our native Western rhododendron at the edges of our woodlands.

REFERENCES AND RESOURCES:
Dale-Crunk, B. (2024) Personal communication.

Global Temperature Data Indicator. NASA

Skagit Climate Science. Air Temperature and Precipitation 

Washington State University. (2024) Rhododendron: Rhododendron and Lace Bug fact sheet.

Pojar, J. and MacKinnon, A. (1994) Plants of the Pacific Northwest, B.C. Ministry of Forests and Lone Pine Publishing

Nelson, S. (Compiler) (2001) The Pacific Coast Rhododendron Story American Rhododendron Society. Binford & Mort Publishing, Portland, Oregon.

University of Washington: Pruning and Caring for Rhododendrons. 

Washington Native Plant Society (2022) Coast Rhododendron: Washington’s State Flower 

World Meteorological Organization (2025) January 2025 Sees Record Global Temperatures Despite La Niña

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
Sonja Nelson is a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener, Class of 2009.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, US Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination. To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Is Bamboo for Your Garden?

If you love bamboo, be a good neighbor and understand how to select, grow, and maintain the plant.

By Kay Torrance, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Bamboo is alternatingly loved and hated by home gardeners. Typically, gardeners are firmly planted in one camp or the other. Full disclosure: I love bamboo. With its soft green glow and exotic sculpted leaves rustling in the breeze, the impact of bamboo in a garden can be transforming. It invokes tranquility and quiet contemplation. Bamboo is unlike any other plant in the garden.

Bamboo resists drought, deer, pests, and disease.  As a landscape plant, it is self-mulching and evergreen. It grows well in poor soil. With all this going for it, why do so many cringe at the thought of growing bamboo? Bamboo has a reputation for being invasive and difficult to maintain. Is that a tired stereotype? Bamboo is not maintenance-free, few plants in the garden are. It requires at least annual maintenance and more extensive care every 3-4 years. Much less than a fruit tree but more than a cactus.

Often, bamboo is planted as a fast-growing evergreen privacy border, with the expectation that no pruning or maintenance will ever be needed once it is grown. Is that reasonable for any plant? Before planting, was the selected bamboo evaluated to see if it had a clumping or running habit? Whether it was short or timber-sized? The key to being in zen with your bamboo is understanding how to select, grow, and maintain the plant.

Phyllostachys Edulis ‘Moso’ is a common timber variety growing in Arashiyama Bamboo Forest in Kyoto, Japan. Photo © Bobbi Lemme

Phyllostachys nigra ‘Black Bamboo’ showing smaller canes from the purchased nursery pot in the back and the new larger green culms produced two years later. Photo © Kay Torrance

What is Bamboo?
Bamboo is the tallest member of the grass family. Believed to originate in China, over a thousand species are growing worldwide in various climates. Some timber varieties grow over 100 feet tall with culms over a foot in diameter. In lush tropical environments, varieties can grow three feet a day. You can also find bamboo thriving in the snow-covered foothills of the Himalayas. Most bamboos originate from Asia, but several species of the genus Arundinaria are native to the Southeastern US.

Botanically, the plant is an evergreen perennial. Like all grasses, it has a woody ringed hollow stem known as a culm (commonly called canes). The joints along the culms are called nodes, and branches grow out above the nodes. The plants have an underground stem called a rhizome, and roots are clustered along the rhizome. New plants erupt from rhizomes as buds. These are called shoots once they emerge from the ground. New culms are protected by papery sheaths, which fall off when they mature and harden.

Not only is bamboo beautiful, it is functional. Strong enough for buildings, furniture, and fences, it is still used today in Asia as scaffolding to build skyscrapers. It is a renewable resource for home décor, garden stakes, brooms, livestock food, and charcoal. Tender baby culms are a dietary delicacy.

How Bamboo Grows
Bamboo produces new culms from rhizomes in the spring. They grow rapidly for 30 to 60 days, obtaining their full height. Only then will they start producing limbs and leaves. After the spring surge, bamboo does not generally grow taller or produce new culms until the following year. Individual culms can last 5-15 years before dying if not damaged. Bamboo rarely flowers, and it is typically propagated by division.

Bamboo is generally grouped by rhizome growth habits such as clumping or running. Growth habit is the single most important consideration when choosing a variety for your landscape! Clumping bamboos have U-shaped rhizomes that produce culms that are a shorter distance from the parent. Running bamboos naturally spread by sending new rhizomes many feet away from the parent plant. One hears stories of bamboo taking over yards and damaging sidewalks and foundations. To avoid such problems, carefully choose a variety suited to your selected location. Consider pots or containers instead of direct planting.

Newly divided bamboo typically takes 3-5 years to reestablish its root system and produce full-size canes. More vigorous running varieties take less time, and clumping varieties take longer. In an established grove, the new culms are roughly the same size as the existing ones. Proper sunlight, water, and soil nutrition will establish new plants quickly. Adequate watering in the first year is essential while the roots are established.

The growth habit of above-ground branches also varies between bamboos and is important when selecting bamboo for the right look in your yard. Some bamboos suppress branches on the lower nodes, creating a very upright and open appearance. Some are naturally weeping and have a more informal look. Some have a single branch emerging above a node, while others have multiple branches at each node, producing dense foliage. These branches can be pruned, but selecting a variety with the desired growth characteristics is easier than pruning each year.

Qiongzhuea tumidissinoda ‘Walking Stick’ bamboo has enlarged nodes. It is a fun variety that grows up to 12′ (less in a container). It is an aggressive running bamboo, sending rhizomes a long distance from the source, and likes to jump barriers. Best for a container. Photo © Kay Torrance

Bamboo garden and planter studio. Photo courtesy of Bamboo Garden Nursery

Varieties and Selection
The American Bamboo Society lists almost 500 kinds of bamboo grown in the US and Canada. Sizes vary from under a foot to over 100′ tall. Many bamboos have gold, blue, red, black, and variegated canes. The nodes can be straight or bulbous, like the walking stick bamboo in Bu Belly or Chinese. There are even varieties with zigzag canes. See the section below for a list of varieties suited for the PNW.

The Pacific Northwest is not an ideal growing location for bamboo. Bamboos grow slower in our cool summers with limited rain. Some bamboos that are invasive elsewhere are not a problem here. For example, Phyllostachys aurea, common ‘Golden’ or ‘Fishing pole’ bamboo, has a reputation for being invasive. However, here, bamboo grows slower than in climates where summer temperatures average 90+ degrees Fahrenheit. If you plant it in the shade, the growth will be slower. A neighbor planted Phyllostachys aurea next to a water garden over 50 years ago. Initially, it thrived, but as conifers grew up around the area, it struggled for light and recently died. Like other grasses, most bamboos can take full sun and will thrive in it. Some prefer part shade. None will grow in full shade.

Is bamboo right for you? Before adding bamboo or any plant to your garden, think about your goals and expectations:

• What do you want to accomplish? Privacy? Texture? Most people select bamboo as a natural evergreen privacy screen or a focal point for their garden.
• How much room do you have? Do you want a forest, a clump, or a pot on your deck? There are varieties appropriate for all of these uses.
• How much maintenance do you have time for? Clumping varieties require less root pruning and are less likely to escape.
• How tall should the plants grow? Although bamboo tolerates pruning well, the resulting boxy look might not be desired. Selecting a variety that matures to the desired height without topping is better.
• Do you want small, delicate leaves that tinkle in the wind or large leaves that rustle? I have a patch of Pseudosasa japonica ‘Japanese Arrow’ bamboo. Its large leaves rustle delightfully in a breeze, growing only to 15′. It provides year-round privacy but is a running bamboo, so its growth needs to be limited with semi-annual root pruning.
• Is there a color preference? In addition to solid green, culms can be yellow, orange, red, blue, silver, or even variegated. Leaf colors can be shades of green, yellow, blue, silvery, and variegated. Beware that many colorful bamboos are from the tropics, so choices for the PNW are limited.
• Do you want pencil-width stalks, medium size, or a diameter measured in inches? If you want a cane that is an inch across, make sure you have room for a forest. If you choose a large-diameter bamboo, you can have bamboo canes for projects around your home. Small-diameter culms can provide endless plant stakes, craft supplies, and weaving material. Having uses for pruned canes makes maintenance enjoyable.
• Are you looking for an open upright structure or a dense natural fence? Running bamboos have more space between the culms and a more upright appearance. Clumping bamboo culms grow more closely together. Some bamboos have more horizontal branches that make a good privacy screen.

Phyllostachys nigra ‘Black Bamboo’ grown against a foundation and contained by a sidewalk at the Elisabeth C. Miller Library in Seattle. In this shady contained location, it will not grow to its unconstrained height of 35′. Photo by Kay Torrance

If you are considering bamboo:

• Avoid buying large (over ½ mature culm size) running bamboo unless you are committed to containing and maintaining it. See maintenance requirements below.
• Avoid planting a hedge of any type of bamboo along a property line for privacy and not building a containment system along the property line to keep it on your side.
• Avoid planting bamboo in areas where there is irrigation or where you fertilize routinely. It will grow fast and require more maintenance. Bamboo planted next to turf lawns will soak in all that water and fertilizer and grow quickly.

Planting and Management
Even though bamboo is likely filling the role of a shrub or tree in your yard, manage it like the grass it is. If you want to contain a plot of grass, you either put a barrier in the ground to redirect the root growth, or you can edge (cut) the roots. The same method is required to contain a stand of bamboo. Bamboo rarely seeds and is surprisingly difficult to propagate from seed. 
Container Planting
The most obvious barrier to preventing bamboo spread is planting it in a pot or container. Like any potted plant, it will need to be thinned every few years or become a root-bound mess. Choose straight-sided pots and use a perennial root-cutting blade to reduce the size. You can build wooden planters with a removable side, making thinning easier. Don’t wait too long. The job just gets more challenging.
Root Barriers
You may have a natural root barrier, such as a rocky terrain or a pond. Despite its tropical appearance, bamboo does not like wet feet. It makes a great companion planting around ponds and will grow best on a small mound, elevating its roots from moisture. You can use a densely forested area as a natural barrier, as bamboo needs some sun. You do not want to plant larger or timber bamboo close to your home, driveway, or sidewalks. Clumping bamboo can also put a lot of pressure on a barrier or pot. Allow room on all sides of the barrier to do maintenance. Don’t install a barrier right on a property line. Set it back about two feet so you can manage the back side.

Most yards do not have suitable natural barriers, so fabricated barriers are needed. Typical bamboo root depth is around 8-12″, with some timber bamboo roots reaching around 18″. A healthy bamboo with vigorous roots will try to dig under or over the top of your barrier, so a barrier height of 24″ is common. Barriers up to 30″ may be required for timber bamboo. If you mound your bamboo, a shallower barrier can work.

You can use metal, wood, or fabric as barriers. Metal will rust and disintegrate over time, and wood will rot. The most long-lasting barriers are either rigid 40 mil HDPE (high-density polyethylene) or flexible EPDM (ethylene propylene diene monomer). Alternatively, you can buy a thick EPDM pond liner and cut it to size. Standard landscaping fabric is insufficient for control. You can buy molded pond liners in various shapes and fill them with dirt instead of water. You will need to cut holes in the bottom so they drain, but don’t cut them too close to the sides.

Barriers will do a good job of containing the bamboo, but you still need to inspect the area during the spring and summer and check for the occasional rhizome trying to go over or under the barrier. The bamboo stand will overgrow its area over 3-7 years and must be thinned. It is best to do this before the roots become a solid mass and are hard to cut. Plan on removing a third of the bamboo every 3 years. Battery-operated or electrical reciprocating saws with long wood or pruning blades make the job easier.

Perimeter Trench
Another method of containment is a loosely filled perimeter trench. Dig an 18″ deep trench about 12-18″ wide around the bamboo location. Fill it with sand, pea gravel, or loose soil. Don’t use soils with silt or clay, as they will compact and harden over time. Bamboo rhizomes will continue to grow and expand freely when they enter the trench. In the fall or early spring, use a spade (the ones with serrated blades work best), root saw, or reciprocating saw with a long blade and work around the perimeter, cutting off and removing any new growth that has entered the trench. Make sure to pull out all of the rhizomes. You do not need to worry about the fibrous roots.

Fargesia nitida ‘Jiuzhaigou’ is a clumping bamboo. This cultivar is ‘Red Fountain’ with pencil sized red canes. Cultivars of this variety can be found with different colored canes. © Photo by Kay Torrance

Fargesia robusta ‘Campbell’ is a clumping bamboo with ¾” canes. © Photo by Kay Torrance.

Removing Shoots and Mowing
Another method of control is simply removing unwanted shoots at the ground level or just below. It is easiest to do in the spring when they are tender. They will not grow back. For smaller-diameter bamboo, you can use your lawn mower to run over unwanted culms anytime.
Pruning the Foliage
Bamboo foliage doesn’t need a lot of maintenance. Varieties with many horizontal branches can be legged up to showcase the culms better. If you need to control the height, bamboo is very tolerant of topping. However, it saves work to choose the right-sized bamboo for your location. 

You should thin the canes every year or two. If the canes are not thinned, the grove can become very dense and vase-shaped as culms compete for sunlight. Cut the canes anytime during the year at or below ground level, removing no more than a third of the canes each year. New canes are not as strong, so thin the oldest canes. Old canes have many uses, so think of this as harvest time.

Rejuvenation or Removal
Rejuvenation often requires removing a large portion of the bamboo grove. The easiest way to kill all or part of the plant is to remove the unwanted canes at ground level or just below it and not let them grow back. Remove bamboo with small-diameter canes with a lawn mower; larger canes will require a lopper or a saw. 

Bamboo needs nourishment from the canes and will die without it. It is best to use this method right after the new culms have reached full height in early summer. The plant has just expended a great deal of energy sending up the culms and will be severely weakened by pruning. It will try to regrow, so make sure to follow up. It can take one to three years before the plant is completely dead. Make sure to shut off irrigation and sprinklers in the area. This method leaves the roots in the ground but they will rot in a year or two.

If you need immediate removal of the plant and rhizomes, the only solution is digging. It is best done when the soil is moist. Cut the canes at one foot (or so) above the ground and use them to help pull out the rhizomes. Get all the rhizomes, but don’t worry about the fibrous roots. As for other methods, there are many: applying chlorine, salt, vinegar, and even gasoline. These contaminate the soil. They may kill the bamboo, but they will destroy the soil ecology and everything nearby. 

Fargesia dracocephala ‘Rufa’ ‘Dragon’s Head’ at the WSU Discovery Garden. This clumping bamboo has a loose weeping habitat so the hedge has been pruned to keep it off the path. Bamboos tolerate pruning well as long as adequate leaves are left for plant health. © Photo by Kay Torrance

Purchasing Bamboo
If you are still reading and anxious to start, don’t rush out and buy the first plant you find. Many nurseries carry only one or two varieties of bamboo. Often, they choose varieties that grow fast and are easily divided, which may not be what you want. 

When choosing plants:

• Avoid plants that are pot-bound with circling roots. These plants will usually have the culms growing right next to the outer edge of the pots, and sometimes, the pots will bulge where the rhizomes are overcrowded.
• Like most plants, a larger pot with more mature culms will establish quicker than a recently divided plant with one or two culms.
• Pay attention to the label. Expect that it will take 3-5 years for plants to reach its established height. The old adage about the first year a plant sleeps, the second it creeps, and the third it leaps is very true of bamboo. It is normal for nursery wholesalers to prune the stalks when dividing or transporting stock, so don’t go by what you see for height.
• Check the label for growing zones. Cold tolerance is important. Some lovely bamboos are marginal for our area. A hard, prolonged freeze might kill them, or they may die down to the ground. If the rhizomes survive, they can take years to recover.

If you can’t find what you want locally, consider mail order. Many bamboo specialty nurseries and Japanese botanical gardens have groves of mature plants for reference. Do research online. There are lots of pictures of bamboo staged with a person for scale. Plan to plant your bamboo in the spring or early summer to establish roots before any freezes. For the first summer, bamboo needs regular water and heavy mulch.

Variety Suggestions

• Fargesia nitida ‘Jiuzhaigou’ is a short and slender clumping variety of bamboo that grows 8-10′ tall. Many colorful cultivars are available, such as ‘Red Fountain’ and ‘Black Cherry’. The canes are pencil-thin with tiny leaves. It has a dramatic vertical growth habit and is very manageable both individually and as a hedge.
• Fargesia rufa ‘Sunset Glow’ is a small clumping bamboo that grows 5-10′ tall with 1/3″ red-orange canes, medium-sized leaves, and a weeping growth habit. Suitable as a shrub in a grouping or a short, dense hedge to provide color.
• Fargesia dracocephala ‘Dragon’s Head’ is a clumping bamboo that grows 8-12′ with 1/2″ canes. It also has a weeping fountain-shaped appearance with medium-sized leaves that sway in the wind. Good for a dense hedge, but allow room for it to lean.
• Fargesia robusta ‘Campbell’ is a clumping bamboo that grows to 12-15′ with ¾” canes. The canes start green but age to a pale yellow. Very upright and tight culm spacing with large leaves. Makes a very dense hedge or large 15-20′ grove. It tends to become vase-shaped if culms are not thinned to allow light to reach the center. Canes are straight and strong.
• Qiongzhuea tumidissinoda, known as ‘Walking Stick’ bamboo, has ½” canes with enlarged nodes. It is only recommended for containers as it is an aggressive and agile runner. It grows 10-15′ but less in containers.
• Pleioblastus viridistriatus is commonly called ‘Greenstripe’ bamboo. It is widely available and grows 2-3′ with tiny canes. It has chartreuse and cream-colored variegation in the leaves. It is unusual because it is deciduous, losing its leaves in the winter. It is a great container plant or tall ground cover. Due to its small size, many people control it with their lawnmower instead of barriers or pruning.

Finally, if you are looking for the impact of a bamboo forest, look for a medium-height running bamboo to plant inside a barrier or container. The iconic Phyllostachys nigra ‘black timber’ bamboo is a good choice. However, the variety is currently undergoing a mass flowering event. Bamboos only flower every 30-120 years, depending on the species. After flowering, the entire plant dies. Since most bamboo is propagated by division, the plants of a particular variety are all identical. They will die en mass worldwide until they return from the notoriously tricky seeds to germinate. That is what is happening now with the beloved black bamboo. For now, if you are looking for the aesthetics of a timber bamboo, try one of the Phyllostachys. The variegated Phyllostachys aureosulcata ‘Yellow Groove’ is a good choice that sports an occasional zigzag cane or perhaps the classic Semiarundinaria fastuosa ‘Red Temple’, for more color.

Is there a blog topic you’d like to learn more about?
Share your ideas with the blog editors in the comment section below.

RESOURCES:

Heinricher, J. and Flemmons, K. (2006) Discovering Bamboo. Boo-Shoot Gardens LLC

Meredith, Ted Jordan (2006) Timber Press Pocket Guide to Bamboos, Timber Press, Portland, OR

Farrelly, D. (1984) The Book of Bamboo: A Comprehensive Guide to This Remarkable Plant, Its Uses, and Its History.Sierra Club Books, San Francisco, CA

Stangler, C. (2001) The Craft & Art of Bamboo. Lark Books; New York, NY

American Bamboo Society. https://www.bamboo.org

WSU Vegetable Research and Extension. https://vegetables.wsu.edu/crops/bamboo/

Kay Torrance

AUTHOR:
Kay Torrance has been a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener since 2019. She is garden coordinator of the Naturescape garden and pond in the Discovery Garden on SR 536 west of Mount Vernon. https://skagitmg.org/home/discovery-garden/

Enjoy a Day Trip to Tour a Pacific Northwest Garden

February is an excellent time to look ahead and plan a visit to one of the many public gardens showcasing a range of plants from native to tropical beauty

By Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners

Creating and appreciating a garden is a dynamic, creative process that benefits from the inspiration of others’ work, traditions, and history. Gardeners in the Pacific Northwest are fortunate to have access to many garden styles and a wide variety of plant combinations at gardens and nurseries that are open to the public – all within range of a day trip from Skagit Valley.

In this article, several Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners share observations from their recent visits to a sampling of regional display gardens. Each author highlights the visit with inspirations ranging from the native rhododendrons of Meerkerk Gardens on Whidbey Island to the amazing cloud forest of the Seattle Spheres.

Perhaps you are hosting visitors this summer or in charge of planning an outing for a group of friends; use these ideas as a springboard for your next garden inspiration. Details for each garden include website links, contact information, logistics, and admission information to help prepare for a visit.

University of Washington Biology Greenhouse Photo © Kay Torrance

University of Washington Biology Greenhouse Photo © Jessamyn Tuttle

University of Washington Biology Greenhouse

Location: Lower level, southwest side of the Life Sciences Building, at 3747 W Stevens Way NE, Seattle, WA. Map

By Kay Torrance, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

In 2023, a group of Skagit Master Gardeners toured the UW Biology Greenhouse, the Elizabeth C. Miller Library, the UW Botanic Gardens and the Washington Park Arboretum. Though this excerpt focuses on the biology greenhouse, I recommend each of the venues as a treasure trove of plant learning,

The UW Biology Greenhouse is a 20,000-square-foot facility opened in 2022, showcasing over 6,000 plant species. According to the website, the new structure “replaces the original Botany Greenhouse, where the UW’s biology department had amassed one of the country’s most diverse plant collections over a period of 65 years.” Led by docents, the group explored four themed garden rooms: Desert, Tree of Life, Warm Tropics, and Cool Tropics.

The Desert Room features North American cacti and plants from Africa, including a Welwitschia from Namibia. Next, the group walked through the Tree of Life room, where plants are displayed in evolutionary order. Next, the tour moved into the warmth of the Warm Tropics Room, filled with palms, gingers, and orchids. The tour then took the Master Gardeners to the Cool Tropics Room, showcasing high-altitude tropical plants. The greenhouse also includes climate-controlled rooms for research and education, benefiting university students in fields such as plant ecology and landscape architecture.

Read an entire blog article about the 2023 visit to the UW Biology Greenhouse at https://skagitmg.org/visit-uw-botanic-garden/

Website: https://www.biology.washington.edu/facilities/greenhouse

Hours and tours:

• The UW Biology Greenhouse is open to the public from noon to 4 p.m. on non-holiday Wednesdays and 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. on the second and fourth Saturdays of the month-docent-led tours for groups of more than eight people by arrangement.
• The UW Botanic Gardens and Washington Park Arboretum are open daily to the public. https://botanicgardens.uw.edu/

Admission: Free

Contact information: https://www.biology.washington.edu/facilities/greenhouse/contact

Amazon Spheres Photo © Laura Kuhn

The Seattle Spheres

Location: 2111 7th Avenue, Seattle

By Laura Kuhn, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

The Seattle Spheres is a private biosphere space created at Amazon headquarters near downtown Seattle in 2018. The space, which includes three glass-enclosed spherical conservatories, is open by reservation only to the public on the first and third Saturdays of each month.

This lush and beautiful facility supports a cloud forest environment – think rainforest tree canopy – supporting flora ranging from tiny begonias and orchids to large tree ferns and aloes. A highlight is the “living walls” that boast over 25,000 plants woven into 4,000 square feet of mesh in what the organization calls an “innovative demonstration of biodiversity.” Trees are planted in pots in the Canyon Living Wall area, and the vertical gardens are more than three stories tall.

There are over 40,000 plant varieties, with many plants in bloom in a wide range of colors, shapes, and sizes. Visitors may explore four stories of plants accessible by stairs or elevators.

Website: Seattlespheres.com

Hours: By reservation only, open to the public from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. on the first and third Saturdays of each month. If you do not have a reservation or go to the location on another day of the week, visit the Understory or the Urban Arboretum found outside of The Spheres.

Admission: Free

Contact Information: For details and to make a reservation, go to https://www.seattlespheres.com/the-spheres-weekend-public-visits

Chihuly Garden and Glass

Location: 305 Harrison Street, Seattle

By: Kathy Wolfe, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Chihuly Garden and Glass highlights a beautiful combination of the iconic glass works of artist Dale Chihuly set in a vibrant garden showcase. The Glasshouse and adjacent displays and exhibitions opened at the base of the Space Needle in Seattle Center in May 2012.

The stunning Chihuly glass art, coupled with beautiful gardens, is a collaboration that inspires visitors from around the world. Chihuly has worked with public gardens – large and small – in the US and internationally to create colorful blends of plants and glass that meld into complementary natural vignettes. Gardeners can be inspired by the clever combinations of glass and plants.

Depending on the time of year, visitors to the Glasshouse may see a wide range of camellias blooming among dogwood, along with scarlet daylilies and fuchsias, accented by icicle-shaped glass towers and spheres incorporated to embellish the scene. The gardens are transformed seasonally, and a master plant list used by the landscape design team is available on the facility’s website.

In addition to the garden area of the exhibit, ticket prices include the Exhibition spaces containing Chihuly’s glass creations, drawings, large architectural installations, and personal collections. A theater offers a short film on Chihuly’s artwork; a free audio tour is available. The Bar restaurant provides food and beverages; and a bookstore offers a selection of gifts, cards, and books.

Website: https://www.chihulygardenandglass.com

Hours and tours: Hours vary daily, so check the website for details. The venue can be closed for private events. Highlight tours are offered three times daily and included in the price of admission.

Admission: Tickets should be purchased in advance. Prices range from $22 to $37.50 depending on a guest’s age (free for children under four) and the time of year.

Contact Information: For general information, call 206-753-4940 or contact guestservice@chihulygardenandglass.com

Happening now: “Winter Brilliance” is a light and music installation containing more than 700 hand-blown glass forms that runs until February 28, 2025, in Gallery 1.

Elizabeth C. Miller Botanical Garden Photo © Crowell Photography.com

Elizabeth C. Miller Botanical Garden
Photo © Crowell Photography.com

Elizabeth Carey Miller Botanical Garden

Location: 79 Olympic Drive Northwest, Seattle

By Nancy Crowell, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

In Western Washington gardening history, there are a handful of people all serious gardeners should know about because of their incredible, prolonged influence on gardening in the region. One of those people was devoted horticulturist Elizabeth C. Miller, whose name is now associated with the Elizabeth Miller Library at the UW Center for Urban Horticulture and the Elizabeth Carey Miller Botanical Garden – commonly known as the Miller Garden.

Elizabeth C. Miller Botanical Garden
Photo © Crowell Photography.com

The Miller Garden, which was developed on six acres of Miller’s private home, has established collections and themed areas. However, the key to why a diehard gardener should take a tour here is that this garden is where Great Plant Picks tests and chooses the plants recommended for our Pacific Northwest gardens. The garden’s website describes the Great Plant Picks as “recommendations for a comprehensive palette of outstanding plants for the maritime Pacific Northwest.” The website states that more than 1,000 plants have been selected to date for gardeners living west of the Cascade Mountains from Eugene, Oregon, to Vancouver, British Columbia.

The garden was designated a public garden in trust after Miller died in 1994, unbeknownst to her neighbors in the exclusive neighborhood. As a compromise to neighbors concerned about large numbers arriving in the neighborhood, the garden is limited to 500 visitors a year, and the coveted entry tickets are sold out months in advance. In fact, the entire 2025 tour season is already sold out.

The garden is well established, yet still a work in progress as caretakers update and refresh the original plantings. A tour reveals surprises around every corner. Fall is a favorite time to visit due to the vast collection of established Japanese maples, though a midsummer visit was equally impressive.

Miller and her horticultural adventures are fascinating. Read more at https://millergarden.org/, then toss your name into the tour lottery. I hope you get a call.  

Website: https://millergarden.org/

Hours and tours: All visits to the Miller Garden are by reservation only with a staff member as a guide. The garden website states, “due to an unprecedented response, the 2025 tour season is now filled.” Early bird reservations for 2026 will open in autumn 2025. A “virtual” tour is offered online at https://millergarden.org/the-garden/

Admission: Free

Contact Information: To be added to the email list for class or tour date announcements, send a message to info@millergarden.org

Heronswood Photo © Heronswood

Heronswood
Photo © Heronswood

Heronswood

Location: 31912 Little Boston Rd NE, Kingston, WA Note: Ferry wait times to the Olympic Penninsula can be long so make reservations and plan accordingly.

By Anne Hays, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Nestled in the charming town of Kingston on the north end of the Olympic Peninsula, Heronswood Garden can feel like stepping into a living dream. This enchanting botanical garden, established by renowned plantsman Dan Hinkley, is a paradise for anyone who cherishes nature’s quiet beauty.

The gardens opened in 1987 and comprise 15 acres and more than 8,000 varieties spread across six distinct yet integrated gardens.

As guests pass through the garden gate, they are immersed in a world where every path leads to a new discovery. Heronswood’s collection of rare and unusual plants is astounding, curated from all corners of the globe. The garden’s thoughtful design blends exotic with native plants, creating a seamless tapestry of textures and colors that change with the seasons.

The garden bursts to life in spring, with rhododendrons in full bloom in a variety of vibrant hues contrasting with the surrounding lush greenery. A fern glade mesmerizes visitors with the delicate interplay of light and shadow.

As one of the state’s “hidden gems,” the gardens offer tranquility and intimacy, allowing guests to wander for hours enjoying the color, listening to the birdsong, and gaining inspiration.

For some visitors, Heronswood is more than a garden-it’s a haven. For plant lovers, artists, and anyone seeking solace in nature, it’s a destination that lingers in the heart long after.

Website: https://www.heronswoodgarden.org/

Hours: 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Closed major holidays. Summer opening hours start April 2, 2025.

Admission: $10 for adults, $5 for youth aged 7 to 17, and free for children aged 6 and younger. 

Contact Information: 360-297-9620, Info@heronswoodgarden.org. To learn more about classes and events, go to https://www.heronswoodgarden.org/event

Meerkerk Gardens
Photo © Anne Hayes

Meerkerk Gardens

Location: 3531 Meerkerk Lane, Greenbank, WA (Whidbey Island)

By Anne Hayes,  Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Nestled just 50 miles from Mount Vernon is Meerkerk Gardens, described as a well-curated “peaceful woodland garden.” The grounds provide a conveniently accessible garden, one of Whidbey Island’s best-kept secrets.

Established by Ann and Max Meerkerk, the grounds include a 10-acre Northwest woodland display garden and 43 woodland acres lined with nature trails. The gardens showcase native flora, including rhododendrons, azaleas, and companion plants, in a variety of garden rooms. Visitors may stroll along the curving, easy-walking paths through the splendor of rhododendrons galore – featuring vibrant shades of colors from white to pink and vibrant red to purple. Today, the Meerkerk Rhododendron Garden nonprofit manages the gardens and woodlands, established in 2002.

In addition to garden access, the website offers detailed information about seasonal guided walks, concerts, children’s programs, nature classes, rhododendron care classes, and guided tour information. The website also features a bloom report so guests can time a visit to experience the complete joy and bloom of the gardens. The garden features color and texture during all seasons.

A special addition is the onsite nursery, open by appointment only in the fall and winter months, reopening in March on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday.

Website: gardeninfo@meerkerkgardens.org

Hours: Open 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily

Admission: $10 for adults and free for children under age 13. Dogs on leash are welcome.

Walks: Guided walks are offered during some seasons, starting at 1 p.m. at the Gatehouse and lasting about 90 minutes. Walks are free for Friends of Meerkerk (and children under 13); the cost is $15 per person for non-members.  Preregister at www.meerkerkgardens.org/events

Contact Information: 360-678-1912

Is there a garden you love or hope to visit soon?
Share your favorite display gardens in the comment section below.

Urban Meadow at Bellevue Botanical Garden Photo © James Gagliardi, Bellevue Botanical Garden Director

Yao Garden at Bellevue Botanical Garden Photo © James Gagliardi, Bellevue Botanical Garden Director

Bellevue Botanical Garden

Location: 12001 Main St., Bellevue, WA

By Diana Wisen, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

As one of the most beautifully designed public botanical gardens in the United States, the Bellevue Botanical Garden is a “must-see” for anyone who loves gardens in the Pacific Northwest. The garden spans 53 acres in a wondrous mixture of cultivated gardens, restored woodlands, natural wetlands, and native plant collections. The paths lead visitors through hillside rock gardens, ponds, and a stream, through forests, past a gnome door hidden under a tree, and a Chinese garden, all with lovely works of garden art throughout.

Urban Meadow with irises at Bellevue Botanical Garden Photo © James Gagliardi, Bellevue Botanical Garden Director

Visitors will likely see varieties of trees they have never seen before. Visitors may wish to bring a cell phone to use the QR codes on the signage for more educational information about the plants. A small professional staff maintains and manages the garden along with local groups and individuals who donate nearly 20,000 hours a year to maintain the gardens.

The garden is known for its winter light display called “Garden d’Lights” during December, with tickets sold online.

The garden is currently hosting a special traveling exhibit called “The Lost Birds” through September 2025. The display features hauntingly beautiful giant bronze statues of extinct birds placed in a circle.

The Trillium Store gift shop and Copper Kettle Coffee shop both have seasonal hours.

Website: https://bellevuebotanical.org/

Hours and tours: Open daily from dawn to dusk, including all holidays. Free public tours are available on Saturday and Sunday, April through October. Private docent-led group tours can be scheduled online.

Admission: Free. Service animals are only allowed in the garden.

Contact Information: Administrative Office may be reached at 425-452-2750. To contact the Bellevue Botanical Garden Society, email bbgsoffice@bellevuebotanical.org

Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Discovery Garden

Location: 16650 State Route 536 (Memorial Highway), Mount Vernon, WA

By Ginny Bode, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

The Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Discovery Garden, located on State Route 536 west of Mount Vernon, always amazes visitors. A stop at the gardens is an easy addition to the list of area attractions.

First-time visitors are often surprised by the extensive collection found in the 1.5-acre garden. The well-maintained paths wind through 25+ garden rooms, including a koi pond, an herb garden, a vegetable garden, and many benches for resting. Each garden has a focus on specific plants that thrive in the Skagit Valley.

Visitors will find many educational opportunities and kiosks about growing fruits and vegetables, ornamental and native plant gardening, pollinators, and composting.

The Children’s Garden at Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Discovery Garden Photo © Sue Wren

A highlight is the Children’s Garden, which is filled with colorful plants and whimsical structures. It is a place where children can touch, smell, and explore different textures, as well as vegetable patches and flower beds that encourage curiosity about how food grows and foster a love of nature and gardening.

The Discovery Garden, designed to inspire and educate the public, is maintained by 150 volunteer master gardeners. An annual open house is held in the garden from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. on the last Saturday in June, featuring a plant clinic and children’s activities.

Adjacent to the Discovery Garden are two additional public display gardens on the WSU NWREC property: the 0.5-acre Salal Native Plant Garden and the 6-acre NW Fruit Garden.

Website: https://skagitmg.org/home/discovery-garden/

Hours: Open daily during daylight hours

Admission: Free

Contact Information: For information, go to https://skagitmg.org/home/discovery-garden/

THANK YOU TO THE AUTHORS:
Kay Torrance, Laura Kuhn, Kathy Wolfe, Nancy Crowell, Anne Hays, Diana Wisen, and Ginny Bode with the introduction by Kari Ranten. All are Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners who love visiting and finding inspiration in display gardens near home or on holiday.

Hummingbirds in the Garden: Food Sources and Benefits

Food sources for resident Anna’s and migrating Rufous hummingbirds and tips for safely hosting a feeder in your garden.

By Joan Stamm, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

There’s a wealth of information out there about our beloved hummingbirds-fascinating mythology, a horrifying feather trade history, descriptions of dazzling aerial dynamics, and arduous migratory habits-but this article will focus on beneficial food sources for our resident Anna’s and migrating Rufous, as these hummingbirds are not only an important part of our ecosystem that helps control insects, but are great pollinators. If this weren’t enough, they are simply a delight to watch.

Let’s start with the basics:

In early spring, Anna’s hummingbird finds nectar in the red-flowering currant (Ribes sanguineum) © Photos: Mason Maron | Audubon Society 

Insects and Spiders
The least glamorous but one of the most important hummingbird food sources is insects. Female Anna’s, when raising their young, can eat up to 2,000 bugs per day. In fact, Douglas Tallamy, a professor of entomology at the University of Delaware, claims that although “Hummingbirds like and need nectar … 80 percent of their diet is insects and spiders.”

Native trees and shrubs, more than “introduced” varieties, provide the highest potential for attracting native insects. To ensure a steady supply of native invertebrates that all birds, but especially hummingbirds, enjoy, plant a variety of native plants in your garden. Another way to increase insect populations is to leave the leaves in the fall. Many insects hide and winter in leaf litter. Instead of tidying up and throwing all those wonderful leaves in the compost bin, pile them up around your plants and postpone cutting away all the dead flower debris until spring. These practices will increase your insect population, and hummingbirds will help keep your bugs in check.

Make the choice to avoid pesticides.
Pesticides containing neonicotinoid insecticide are widely used by farmers and homeowners, and on pets for flea and tick treatments. Even though neonicotinoids are relatively less toxic to beneficial insects and pollinators, and their use is supported by WSU and USDA, many gardeners prefer to avoid their use. Some research institutions have found that hummingbirds exposed to systemic neonicotinoid insecticides for even a short time can disrupt their high-powered metabolism. Hummingbirds are pollinators. They can visit hundreds of flowers in a day. Any pesticide that can harm bees will likely harm hummingbirds.

Though not native to the Pacific Northwest, the brilliant red flowers of Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ attracts hummingbirds throughout the summer. © Photo: Nancy Crowell | crowellphotography.com

 The Rufous hummingbird is attracted to ‘Black & Blue’ anise sage (Salvia guaranitica) © Photo: Phil Green | philgreen.net

Tree Sap
We don’t often think of tree sap as being an important food source for birds, but when flower nectar is scarce our migrating Rufous hummingbird will turn to sap in tree wells left by red-breasted sapsuckers and woodpeckers. If your garden can accommodate aspen, birch, or pine, you will create another potential food source for our Western Washington hummingbirds; plus providing important nesting and perching habitat.
Native and Non-native Flowers
Along with the protein, fats, and amino acids found in insects and the minerals found in tree sap, other nutrients important to hummingbirds are found in flower nectar. “Scientists have learned that the richness of the nectar matters more than the color of its source,” which in most cases would come from plants native to our region. A perfect example is our native snowberry (Symphoricarpos albus) which has tiny pink (not red) flowers that hummingbirds return to again and again. They also like our native nodding onion (Allium cernuum) with its tiny pinkish mauve flowers. Even osoberry (Oemleria cerasiformis), with its white pendulous flowers, offers good quality nectar early in the season as they are one of the first native trees to bloom.

But if you want to give hummingbirds their preferred red-orange range, try our native red paintbrush (Castilleja miniata), western columbine (Aquilegia formosa), red-flowering currant (Ribes sanguineum), Cascade penstemon (Penstemon surrulatus), and hot pink and scarlet monkeyflower (Mimulus lewesii and cardinelli) to name a few.

Along with natives, and to ensure a steady supply of flower nectar throughout the year, there are many introduced varieties that hummingbirds love. Most notably in my garden are the salvias- ‘hot lips’ and ‘black and blue.’ They also like bee balm, crocosmia, fuchsia, and weigela. For winter bloomers, Ciscoe Morris, the NW gardening guru and host of “Gardening with Ciscoe” recommends witch hazel, Camellia sasanqua ‘Yuletide,’ sweetbox, Daphne odora, Viburnum x bodnantense ‘Dawn,’ Grevillea victoriae, and the Asian hybrid Mahonia x media.

During breeding season, the hummers helicopter from plant to plant until they get their fill, mixing nectar with insect protein to feed their young, which is strictly the female’s job, along with nest building. The males resume their independent lifestyle.

Western columbine (Aquilegia formosa) is native in our area and provides food for Anna’s hummingbird © Photo: Phil Green | philgreen.net

Many enjoy feeding hummingbirds, but doing so comes with the responsibility of keeping the feeders clean and free of bacteria to avoid harming the birds. It may be easier to grow native plants such as snowberry and red currant to help the hummers through late winter. © Photo: Nancy Crowell | crowellphotography.com

Hummingbird Feeders
If you are going to use hummingbird feeders-and it’s really the overwintering Anna’s that mostly benefit as the Rufous is long gone by the end of summer-then the overwhelming advice from experts is that feeders be clean, clean, and clean. Some say feeders should be cleaned every 3 to 4 days, some say 5, and others say if the weather is above 65 degrees, they should be cleaned daily to prevent the sugar water from fermenting. “Sugar water is a nursery for bacteria, mold, and potentially dangerous pathogens.” Fermented sugar water can enlarge a bird’s liver imperiling its health. “Ten percent or more of the hummingbirds who wind up in rehabilitation centers have yeast infections from improperly maintained feeders.” Clean feeders with hot, soapy water or vinegar. Never use bleach as any residue is not only toxic to birds but to the environment in general.

The recipe for the sugar solution is one part plain white non-organic refined sugar to four parts water. Do not use red coloring or any commercial product with chemicals or dye. Boil the solution, let it cool, and fill your feeder. Hang more than one feeder to avoid competition. Hang them away from a window to prevent hummingbirds from flying into the glass and breaking their neck. In summer, hang them in the shade. In winter, hang them in the sun. If temperatures drop, you will need to rig up a heating element to keep the solution from freezing or rotate your feeders throughout the day. If all this sounds like too much work and responsibility-inadvertently harming hummingbirds rather than helping-it might be easier to grow a variety of nectar-rich flowers instead and leave the rest to nature.

Learn from the experts at the
Country Living Expo
& Modern Homesteading
Saturday, January 25, 2025
Stanwood High School 

Learn More and Register Here >>

These Gardening Topics and More:

• Fruit Tree Pruning
• Microclimates in the Garden
• Garden Design
• Roses
• Bee Keeping
• Growing Vegetables, Herbs and Flowers
• Tool Care and Maintenance
• Small Fruits: Elderberry and Blueberries
• Growing Lavendar

https://extension.wsu.edu/skagit/countrylivingexpo/

Mahonia x media, pictured here, is an Asian hybrid that blooms in winter. Several native Mahonias also attract hummingbirds and bloom in early spring. © Photo: Nancy Crowell | crowellphotography.com

The coastal hedgenettle (Stachys chamissonis) is a native plant in the Pacific Northwest that thrives in moist soil near forests and provides support to birds, bees and butterflies. © Photo: Nancy Crowell | crowellphotography.com

REFERENCES AND RESOURCES:

BOOKS:

• Link, R.Landscaping for Wildlife in the Pacific Northwest. Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife. 1999
• Shewey, J.Hummingbird Handbook. Portland: Timber Press. 2021
• Stark, E. M..Real Gardens Grow Natives. Seattle: 2014
• Tallamy, D.Nature’s Best Hope: A New Approach to Conservation That Starts in Your Yard. Portland: Timberpress. 2019

ON-LINE:

• All About Birds –https://www.allaboutbirds.org/guide/Annas_Hummingbird/
• Beyond Pesticides: https://beyondpesticides.org/dailynewsblog/2021/02/hummingbirds-are-being-harmed-by-the-same-pesticides-killing-off-bees-butterflies-and-other-pollinators/
• Georgia Department of Natural Resources:https://georgiawildlife.com/out-my-backdoor-beyond-hummingbird-feeder.
• The Humane Gardener: https://www.humanegardener.com/a-fighting-chance/#:~:text=Hummingbirds%20are%20more%20visible%20to,in%20our%20yards%20as%20well.%E2%80%9D

Joan D. Stamm

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Joan D. Stamm, is a certified Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener and the author of several books, including The Language of Flowers in the Time of COVID:  Finding Solace in Zen, Nature and Ikebana.

Tips to Making Strategic Vegetable Seed Selections

Helpful Ideas for Choosing What to Grow in the Vegetable Garden

By Kari Ranten and Cathy Markham, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners

Planning a vegetable garden for the upcoming growing season is the perfect indoor activity for the cold gray month of January in northwest Washington. Those plans all begin with the process of choosing the right seeds for the produce you want to plant, grow, harvest, eat, and preserve.

Shopping for seeds can be just as fun and educational as any step in the vegetable garden.

Giving a gardener a stack of seed catalogs is like the veritable “kid in a candy store.” These volumes, filled with colorful images and tempting descriptions of dozens of vegetables – from asparagus to zucchini – create a shopping experience like no other. As certified Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Cathy Markham notes, “The problem is there are thousands of choices and, yet, that’s the fun part.”

The challenge in seed selection is to remain focused, strategic, and practical in making the right choices.

Start your research of seed options after making a list of favorite vegetables and evaluating your space, facilities, and skill level. Begin with learning how to read a seed description in a catalog, on a website, or a seed packet.
Photo © Cathy Markham, used with permission by Skagit County Master Gardeners

In our area warm-season crops such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, and melons need to be started indoors. Cathy uses a soil-blocking method (pictured above) to start seeds. This allow roots to grow vigorously without confinement and minimizes transplant shock.
Photo © Cathy Markham, used with permission by Skagit County Master Gardeners

Getting started
Here are some important considerations to help narrow down what seeds to purchase:

• Grow your favorites: Think about the produce that is most used and appreciated at the dinner table or preserved in the freezer or pantry. Putting a priority on these vegetables can help pare down the list of what to grow and the seeds to purchase. Cathy is a tomato aficionado, and pours over the seed catalogs and websites for her favorites and opportunities to try new varieties.
• Space: Based on the favorites list, look at the pots, raised beds, or garden space available for growing vegetables. Look at the space with an eye on directional exposure, light, and surroundings. An experienced vegetable gardener, Cathy grows a little bit of everything, including lots of tomatoes plus greens, peas, beans, and root vegetables. While she once had five acres, she now has a small garden space and works hard to maximize the potential by mapping out a plan for the garden space each year. She records progress notes to help in future seasons. In planning, also keep in mind that some crops, such as tomatoes, a member of the nightshade family, need to be rotated to a different area of the garden each season to limit pests and disease.

• Equipment: When choosing seeds for warm-season crops such as tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, and melons, remember that these need to be started indoors at home or in a greenhouse to be successful. A greenhouse is not required as many compact options are available to set up lights and heat mats on shelves indoors or in a garage.

• Skill level: For beginners, start on a smaller scale and add more vegetable varieties in future seasons. Also, consider doing some research and ask friends or neighbors with experience with vegetable gardens. Experienced vegetable gardeners rely on previous experience and notes taken during prior seasons on successful varieties and harvest results.

• Expense: Think about the vegetables that can be more expensive at the store or market and compare them to the cost of seeds and the season’s labor of love by the gardener. It can be easy to go crazy in the seed “candy store” so be mindful to purchase only the number of seeds to accommodate the space and objectives for the garden.

A greenhouse is not required to start seeds. Many compact options are available to set up lights and heat mats on shelves indoors or in a garage. Read more about building a DIY grow stand here > DIY Indoor Grow Stand  Photo © Cathy Markham, used with permission by Skagit County Master Gardeners

Research and understand seed options
After evaluating favorite vegetables, space, facilities, and skill level, research seed options. For starters, it helps to know how to read a seed description in a catalog website or seed packet. The gardener also needs to understand key terms, such as cultivar, heirloom, open-pollinated, hybrid, and resistance, as outlined in an article by Kym Pokorny and Nicole Sanchez of Oregon State University titled “Learn the Terms on Seed Packets to Make the Right Selection.”

When looking at seed options, consider the following key elements to consider for success in the maritime climate and relatively short growing season of northwest Washington:

• Days to maturity: It’s key to check how many days the crop needs to reach maturity. Cathy recommends choosing “early” varieties with 55 to 60 days to maturity to gain a successful crop. Seeds with 70 to 80 days to maturity can work; however, they may be more challenging. Seeds identified as reaching maturity at more than 80 days are rarely suited for northwest growing conditions.

• Understand the Zone: Check out the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map to confirm and learn more about the environment of the garden location.

• Consider Pacific Northwest-based seed producers: Several seed producers are located in Washington, Oregon, and British Columbia that may provide seed options designed for the region’s climate. Longtime Northwest seed producers include Ed Hume Seeds, Territorial Seed Company, and West Coast Seeds.

• Disease resistance: Look for seeds that will produce disease-resistant plants. The Pacific Northwest Vegetable Extension Group of Washington State University, Oregon State University, and University of Idaho has a great deal of information for gardeners at https://mtvernon.wsu.edu/path_team/
• Bolt tendency: When under stress, such as heat, some vegetables have a tendency to bolt, sending up flowers and producing seeds before the harvest. Check the seed description and look for “bolt resistant” or “slow bolting.”
• Space requirements: Matching up with the earlier evaluation of available pots, raised beds, and garden space, choose seeds for varieties sized to fit. Buy only what you will need for one or two years.
• Keep a record: Since 2010, Cathy has kept a notebook filled with clippings from seed catalogs or packets and adds notes about the season’s successes and failures to inform seed selection in future seasons.

Photo © Cathy Markham, used with permission by Skagit County Master Gardeners
A focus on tomatoes
As noted, Cathy has a special interest in raising tomatoes. This can be a joy and a challenge for Northwest gardeners based on the shorter growing season. The same can be said for peppers, eggplant, and melons, which all must be started in a greenhouse or indoor growing set up with heat and lights. Read more about building a DIY grow stand in blog article: https://skagitmg.org/indoor-grow-stand/

When reviewing tomato seeds, Cathy recommends giving special attention to the days to maturity, space needs, and available natural light. Dwarf, determinate varieties work well in pots as they are smaller and more compact. Also, think about the uses and flavors for tomatoes and select varieties to span salads to sauces.

In her search for seeds, Cathy focuses on growing different sizes of tomatoes in a “rainbow of colors” to enjoy fresh and in different types of preparations. She receives a variety of seed catalogs and orders favorites such as Italian Red Pear, an Italian heirloom (seeds available at Seeds of Italy, growitalian.com), and she is willing to try a new, emerging variety that may not be available locally.

Cathy’s small-scale garden space means her seed search must match her garden’s layers and vertical growth opportunities. Cathy uses a soil-blocking method to start seeds, planting a few more than needed to make sure she has enough, and uses an indoor shelf lighting and heat mat system in the garage to get her tomatoes started. Tiny tomatoes need daily monitoring for moisture, temperature, and light. As the small plants grow, Cathy occasionally will put the flats of fledgling tomatoes outside for a very brief time on warmer days to get a boost of sunshine.

Tomatoes: Determinate vs. Indeterminate
According to Washington State University Extension Fact Sheet #FS145E titled Vegetables: Growing Tomatoes in Home Gardens, “there are 7,500 varieties of tomatoes with differences in color, shape, growth habit, length to harvest, taste, and disease resistance. Tomatoes are classified as either determinate or indeterminate. Determinate varieties are bush-like, with all the tomatoes ripening about the same time. Indeterminate varieties are vine-like, with the tomatoes ripening throughout the growing season- until frost kills the plant.” Find a listing of Determinate vs. Indeterminate tomatoes on the Skagit Master Gardeners’ website > Determinate vs Indeterminate Tomatoes
Seeds selected, what’s next?
Learn more about germination, propagation, and the basics of growing vegetables. Resource publications include:  Propagating Plants from Seed by Pacific Northwest Extension Publishing and Home Vegetable Gardening in Washington by Washington State University Extension.

This is a non-inclusive list of seed purveyors to consider:

• Deep Harvest Farm deepharvestfarm.com/ Based on Whidbey Island.
• Ed Hume Seeds https://humeseeds.com/ Based in Puyallup, Washington.
• Johnny’s Selected Seeds Company johnnyseeds.com Based in central Maine.
• Renee’s Garden Seeds reneesgarden.com Based in California, sources and trials seeds from across the world.
• Territorial Seed Company https://territorialseed.com/ Based in central Oregon.
• West Coast Seeds https://www.westcoastseeds.com/collections/vegetable-seeds Based near Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada.

REFERENCES AND RESOURCES:

Bubel, N. (2018) The New Seed-Starters Handbook. Emmaus, PA. Rodale.

Daigre, S. and Garbee, J. (2015) Tomatomania!: A Fresh Approach to Celebrating Tomatoes in the Garden. New York, NY. St. Martin’s Griffin.

Fredericks, G., Cowan, J. and Daniels, C. (2014) Vegetables: Growing Tomatoes in Home Gardens. Washington State University Extension Fact Sheet #FS145E.

Kumar, M., Larsen, F. and Shekel, K. (2022) Propagating Plants from Seed. Pacific Northwest Extension Publishing. #PNW0170. Link here > 

LeHouiller, C. (2014). Epic Tomatoes: How to Select and Grow the Best Varieties of All Time. North Adams, MA. Storey.

Miles, C. (2013) Home Vegetable Gardening in Washington. Washington State University Extension Publication #EM057E. Link here > 

Pokorny, K. and Sanchez, N. (2021) Learn the Terms on Seed Packets to Make the Right Selection. Oregon State University Extension. Link here >

Ryan, K. (2015) Using Crop Rotation in Home Vegetable Gardens, Snohomish County Extension Fact Sheet. Link here>

Sanchez, N. (2019) The Basics of Selecting Garden Seeds. Oregon State University Extension. Link here >

United States Department of Agriculture, 2024, USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map. Link here > 

Authors Kari Ranten and Cathy Markham

ABOUT THE AUTHORS:

Kari Ranten, MHA, is a retired journalist and healthcare communicator who became a certified Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener in 2024. Cathy Markham, a certified Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener since 2022, has a degree in food and nutrition from the University of Idaho and is a Registered Dietician.

The Winter Garden: A Study in the Beauty and Resilience of Nature

Winter is an opportunity to plan and add four-season interest to the garden

By Ginny Bode, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

As winter settles over the Pacific Northwest, the vibrant hues of autumn give way to a quieter, more reflective landscape. While some see the garden in winter as a barren space, this season offers a simpler beauty, one where structure and form take center stage. In this season of rest from the work of gardening, the structural silhouettes of deciduous trees and shrubs reveal the garden’s architecture, offering a fresh perspective on plant arrangement. By emphasizing the bones of the landscape, winter highlights the artistic potential of bare branches, textured bark, and the subtle interplay of light and shadow while showcasing the resilience of nature. This winter, look at your garden’s potential and where you can contribute to the winter beauty by adding a tree, shrub, or grasses.

When we think of design structure, we often first consider architectural or sculptural elements, such as a gazebo, fountain, trellis, or archway. However, evergreens and the bark and branches of deciduous trees and bushes also provide visual structure. These stand resilient, offering rich hues contrasting against the faded tones of fall decay.

In her book Designing and Creating a Winter Garden, Sally Gregson calls evergreens “a green beacon signifying that life continues despite the washed-out decline.” Evergreens provide a living structure to the garden with lush foliage while offering shelter for wildlife. We may think of evergreens as towering trees, but evergreen is a broad term that includes small to medium-leaved and needled shrubs in hues of true green, blue-green, and yellow-green.

This red Acer maple provides a striking winter contrast to the surrounding evergreens. Photo © Skagit Valley Master Gardeners

The twigs of the ‘Midwinter Fire’ Bloodtwig dogwood (Cornus sanguinea) put on a vibrant show of color in the winter. Its yellow-golden fall foliage gives way to stems that transition from yellow at the base to fiery orange and crimson at the tips. Photo © Skagit Valley Master Gardeners

Though bare in winter, deciduous trees and bushes reveal their graceful shapes, adding vertical lines and depth. Together, evergreens and deciduous trees and bushes create a dynamic framework, enhancing the garden’s visual interest and serving as a backdrop for seasonal changes.

Study your garden and those you drive by for structure and winter interest. At this time of year it is easy to see the subtle colors and textures and how the shapes work together. Note which vistas seem balanced and why and which seem blank and could use attention. Take pictures to remember plants and vistas you like. Maybe the solution is a statue, panel, or an evergreen. It may take some trial and error, but with some planning now, you’ll be ready to plant this coming spring or fall. Your reward will be an interesting and beautiful garden, even during the shortest days of winter.

Beyond the overall structure of the garden, if you love nature’s details, the winter garden will not disappoint. Enjoy the bare branches as they form elegant silhouettes. Take a close-up look at the intriguing patterns that emerge on the bark of many trees after the first frost. Acers (or maples,) birches, crape myrtles (Lagerstroemia indica), and ornamental cherries are known for their rich colors and unique textures in winter.

This paper-bark maple (Acer griseum) in the Discovery Garden features striking, cinnamon-colored bark peels in thin, papery layers, creating a textured, sculptural effect that adds year-round visual interest to any landscape. Photo © Skagit Valley Master Gardeners

Grasses add visual interest and movement, offering a gentle symphony, reminding us of nature’s resilience. Photo © Skagit County Master Gardeners
Grasses Add Magic to the Winter Garden
Another way to add winter interest is with ornamental grasses, such as placing shorter, smaller grasses outside a window or near an entry to be enjoyed daily. Their slender textural forms sway gracefully in the crisp air as their frost-kissed blades shimmer with delicate crystals.

Many gardens feature taller ornamental grasses like Miscanthus and Panicum, which show off their feathery plumes as the wind rustles through their stems. These hardy plants contribute to the garden’s aesthetic and provide shelter for birds and other wildlife. In the winter garden, grasses embody elegance and strength, showcasing nature’s artistry every season.

Nandina, often called Heavenly Bamboo has vibrant green leaves that turn a deep red or purple in the fall and winter with clusters of red berries, adding a burst of seasonal color. Photo © Ginny Bode | Skagit County Master Gardeners

For those that like the look of holly without the invasive aspect, Mahonia commonly known as Oregon grape, is evergreen and produces lovely yellow flowers followed by berries. It is deer resistant. Photo ©: Ginny Bode | Skagit County Master Gardeners 
Berries and Hips
Many ornamental shrubs and bushes produce colorful berries or hips at the end of the blooming season. As fall gives way to winter, these berries and hips become more vibrant against the limited tones of the dormant winter garden. The bright red, orange, or purple berries of these hardy plants, which include holly, winterberry, beautyberry, and roses, contrast beautifully against evergreen foliage and snowy landscapes. Beyond aesthetics, berries and hips also provide valuable wildlife habitat, attracting birds and pollinators. These plants thrive in our region’s mild, wet winters, offering a long-lasting seasonal display and contributing to a garden’s biodiversity.

Choose a berry-producing bush for the winter ornamental garden with care. Many hollies have become invasive in our area, popping up where birds dropped the berry seeds. David Zuckerman, UW Botanic Gardens Manager of Horticulture, says, “Just don’t plant English holly (Ilex aquifolium), the species with the dark, glossy leaves and bright red berries that most people picture when they hear the word ‘holly.’ This non-native species has become invasive here and isn’t recommended for home gardens, … leave it to the professional growers.” More than 400 varieties of large and small hollies grow well in western Washington; many can be seen at the Washington Arboretum in Seattle, home to the second-largest holly collection in the US. Remember, hollies are dioecious, meaning female plants require a male plant in proximity to produce berries.

Another berry-producing bush is Nandina, commonly known as Heavenly Bamboo. Often used in public plantings, this versatile shrub has striking foliage and berries in winter and offers a beautiful backdrop as the seasons rotate. Its vibrant green leaves turn a deep red or purple in the fall and winter with clusters of red berries, adding a burst of seasonal color. In the spring, Nandina produces small white flowers, followed by bright red berries in late summer through winter. Drought-tolerant and low-maintenance, Nandina thrives in various soil types, making it ideal for borders, hedges, and decorative accents.

Rosa rugosa provide beauty in the winter as well as the summer garden. They offer a range of benefits that contribute to a garden’s ecosystem by providing food for pollinators and animals. Photo ©: Ginny Bode | Skagit County Master Gardeners 

Callicarpia berries provide winter food for mammals and birds, and the spring flowers produce nectar for the bees-a multi-season winner in the garden landscape. Photo ©: Ginny Bode | Skagit County Master Gardeners 

Many berry-producing shrubs and bushes reach a beauty crescendo in the winter. The deciduous Purple Beautyberry (Callicarpa dichotoma) puts on a stunning show of iridescent purple berries beginning in fall and hanging on well into winter. This deer-resistant shrub has large and small varieties and is an excellent choice for the garden’s ecosystem. Callicarpia berries provide winter food for mammals and birds, and the spring flowers produce nectar for the bees-a multi-season winner in the garden landscape.

Rose hips also provide striking color in late fall and winter. All roses produce hips, some that are particularly large and striking. These vibrant, berry-like fruits develop at the end of the blooming season, by not deadheading the blooms and allowing the hips (or seeds) to develop. Rose hips are both beautiful and beneficial to the garden. Their unique shape and bright hues also attract birds and wildlife, adding ecological value. By choosing a rose specifically for the rose hips it produces in fall and winter, you are adding an extra season of beauty to the garden.

Planting for the Earliest Signs of Spring
Some of us can’t resist the joy of plants which signal winter is waning. Witch hazel (Hamamelis) is the first to show spring is coming, with its bright, spidery yellow or orange flowers blooming when it still seems most definitely winter. The fragrant blossoms offer a cheerful burst of color against still-bare branches, telling us warmer days are coming.

Camellias and winter-blooming rhododendrons are also prized for their vibrant flowers while the days are still grey and cold. Camellias, often in shades of pink, red, or white, thrive in mild climates and add color to winter landscapes. Winter-blooming rhododendrons such as “Christmas Cheer”, with its striking clusters of blooms, bring color to gardens even in snow.

Witch Hazel, genus Hamamelis puts on a glorious show in early February. Photo © Bobbi Lemme | Skagit County Master Gardener

As you can see, the possibilities for adding winter interest in the garden are numerous, with many offering the bonus of providing food and shelter to birds and mammals in the winter. Use the grey days ahead to make a plan for adding structure and beauty to your winter garden next year.

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Beyond the trees, shrubs, and grasses mentioned here, previous master gardeners have written about other winter garden favorites. Use these links to read more about:

Hellebores: A Treat for Your Winter Garden >

Heaths and Heathers >

Early Blooming Bulbs: Plant Now for Early Spring Color >

We would love to hear about your favorite winter interest plants in the comments section below.

REFERENCES AND RESOURCES:

Gregson, S. (2022) Designing and Creating a Winter Garden. The Crowood Press, Ltd. Ramsbury, Marlborough, Wilshire UK

Bourne, V. (2006) The Winter Garden. Castell Illustrated, Ltd, London, UK

10 Winter Flowering Shrubs. (2023) King County Master Gardeners. Retrieved from: https://extension.wsu.edu/king/tip-sheet-10-winter-flowering-shrubs/

Jorganson, J. Winter blooming Shrubs for the Pacific Northwest. Fine Gardening Magazine. Retrieved from: https://www.finegardening.com/article/winter-blooming-shrubs-for-the-northwest?srsltid=AfmBOorju8siP5rtb-DIJi3T6zmcodZhDDS8zDpxT70pNmo0eJ471Ck6

Smith, T.S. (2024) Top roses to grow for rosehips. Retrieved from: https://www.gardensillustrated.com/plants/winter/rosehips-how-to-grow-garden-rose

Jones, C. (2023) American Beautyberry-An Elegant Native Plant. Retrieved from: https://directnativeplants.com/american-beautyberry-an-elegant-native-plant/?srsltid=AfmBOooEqqq2BtXQ7HPEVsNQhVtFctuiGCRcAu1qj0_RnZCxyxoXMIUJ

Damiano, J. (2023) Give Your Garden a Pop of Color this Fall with Rose Hips. Retrieved from: https://www.morningagclips.com/give-your-garden-a-pop-of-color-this-fall-with-rose-hips/

Hollies for the Puget Sound Area. Retrieved from: https://depts.washington.edu/hortlib/pal/hollies-for-the-puget-sound-area/

Ginny Bode

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
Ginny Bode is a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Class of 2022 and is co-editor of the Ask a Master Gardener Blog. She enjoys taking close-up photos of winter beauty on daily walks and in nearby gardens.

Holiday Gift Ideas for the Gardener

Books fill the winter with ideas and inspiration

By Kari Ranten, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

It’s a windy rainy day. The blooms have faded. The vegetable garden is put to bed. A layer of mulch graces the landscape. Bulbs are in the ground. For many gardeners, late fall and winter are quiet months as they await the Spring emergence of new textures and colors in the garden.

The holidays provide an opportunity to lift your favorite gardener’s spirits with the gift of a gardening book – or two. Filled with beautiful images and educational content, there is a wide variety of volumes to help gardeners learn something new and provide inspiration for the seasons to come.

Gardeners are fortunate to have an abundance of great titles on the market, including some new volumes, some old favorites, and many offerings that zero in on the unique climate and conditions of the Pacific Northwest.

For the gardener with a passion for a specific plant family, publications are available singularly focused on individual species, from pansies to succulents or dahlias to peonies. Still more provide guides beyond the plants to include insects, pollinators, birds, animals, and other creatures important to the northwest ecosystem.

To get started, here are a few ideas to begin a search for the perfect holiday gift for a gardener near you. Check out your favorite retailer for more titles and information.

Books by a local author: Erin Benzakein, founder of Floret Farms in Skagit Valley, has written and co-authored several books about growing and displaying flowers. Benzakein’s most recent book, Floret Farm’s Discovering Dahlias: A Guide to Growing and Arranging Magnificent Blooms was released in 2021 and co-authored by Julie Chai, Jill Jorgensen, and photographer Chris Benzakein. The book offers inspiration and tips for growing, harvesting, and arranging the popular summer blooms.

A classic: The New Sunset Western Garden Book: The Ultimate Gardening Guide (2012, 9^th edition) is a staple for beginning and experienced gardeners, offering details and tips for selecting, planting, and caring for a wide range of perennials, annuals, shrubs, and trees specific to each climate zone. Photos and drawings create strong visuals to support the how-to guide and “Western Plant Encyclopedia” with listings for more than 8,000 plants.

For the weather watcher, and more: For gardeners and many more who are interested in predictions for the year, calendars, and astronomical data, a copy of the 2025 Old Farmer’s Almanac is a great addition to the bookshelf. The almanac provides a handy look at the anticipated forecast for the upcoming seasons by region, along with trends and stories about gardening, nature, cooking, and more across the United States.

For the vegetable gardener: Winter is an important time for vegetable gardening enthusiasts to plan for the next season, order seeds, and potentially start plants in a greenhouse or other indoor propagation setup. The Timber Press Guide to Vegetable Gardening in the Pacific Northwest (2013) by Lorene Edwards Forkner is specifically directed at those growing food crops in Washington, Oregon, Southeastern Alaska, and British Columbia. The book features a month-by-month outline of activities to help plan, prepare, plant, grow, and harvest the next vegetable garden.

For berry and fruit tree enthusiasts: Growing Berries and Fruit Trees in the Pacific Northwest: How to Grow Abundant, Organic Fruit in Your Backyard (2019) by Tara Austen Weaver stays true to the title, providing details on successfully growing more than 75 cultivars of fruit trees and berries east and west of the Cascades.

For those interested in native plants: The Pacific Northwest Native Plant Primer: 225 Plants for an Earth-Friendly Garden by Kristin Currin and Andrew Merritt was published in 2023. Supported by many photographs and examples, the book offers details on how to successfully grow native plants in this region that features a range of geography, weather, and soils, along with tips to support pollinators, wildlife, and other creatures.

To learn more about supporting beneficial insects and other creatures in the garden: Garden Allies: The Insects, Birds & Other Animals That Keep Your Garden Beautiful and Thriving (2021) provides insights on how to support and protect populations of spiders, ladybugs, pollinators, and other creatures in the garden. Written by Frédérique Lavoipierre, who was director of education at the Santa Barbara Botanic Garden, the book features pen-and-ink drawings by Craig Latker.

For the perennial lover: Abundant color photography by Jacqueline Koch complements the content of Perennials for the Pacific Northwest: 500 Best Plants for Flower Gardens (2013) by Marty Wingate. The book details how to buy and grow the many perennials available in the Northwest and offers ideas on designing your garden, ranging from formal to informal.