Growing Grapes in Western Washington

Enjoy fresh, home-grown grapes by choosing the best varietals and location.

By: Kathy Wolfe, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Do you ever dream of strolling through your garden on a warm summer day, popping juicy, succulent grapes into your mouth, and experiencing the liquid nectar explode? This does not have to be a fantasy for gardeners west of the Cascades. With the proper site, preparation, and varietal choice, you can enjoy fresh table grapes, juice, jelly, raisins, and even wine on your property if your growing area is large enough here in our maritime climate.

Our region averages somewhere between 20-60 inches of rain, depending on where you are located. As we have experienced, less rain falls during the summer than during the rest of the year, in contrast to the grape-growing regions in Italy, France, and Germany.

Mildew is generally kept at bay with our long days of light, little cloud cover, clean air, and pleasant breezes. Our challenge is having enough warm days (heat units) to allow the grapes to reach their full potential. Choosing the best varietals and planting them in the warmest, sunniest area possible can help develop grapes to their optimal ripeness, flavor, and acidity.

Most vines in Western Washington are grown on rootstock, as opposed to the own-rooted vines of Eastern Washington. Rootstock helps improve cluster size. Choosing variety and rootstock combinations that work best in our cool climate conditions has been an important part of research in Washington over the last decade. Be aware that Washington state has strict grapevine quarantines. Only certified plant material is allowed to be brought into the state.

Concord grapes grow well in sunny locations in Skagit County. While lower in tannins needed for wine making, Concord grapes are considered heart-health and excellent for juice and jelly making. Photo: © Ginny Bode

A grape arbor is a beautiful addition to any garden. Edelweisse, a hardy, disease resistant, large white grape, grows on “Doc’s Arbor” in the Discovery Garden. Photo: © Ginny Bode

Ever wonder why the same grape can produce different flavors in different areas? The site’s geography, geology, and climate (heat, rain, sunshine, elevation, slope, aspect, and soil), combined with the plant’s genetics, create a unique flavor and characteristic fruit in an area. This unique individuality of flavor is called “terroir” from the French “terre” or land.

A sunny spot with warmth and air circulation is a must when growing either table or wine grapes. South, southwest, or westerly-facing slopes are generally the best heat producers.

Grapes are trained on wires or trellises (different systems for table and wine grapes are used) and generally planted in north/south facing rows. Spacing between rows should be about 8 or 9 feet so that the 6-foot-high vegetation will not shade the adjacent row except early or late in the day. Individual plants can be planted 4 to 6 feet apart.

Grapes prefer well-drained, sandy, or gravelly soils for heat retention. Well-established plants can’t be transplanted, so choosing your site and preparing the soil thoroughly before planting is important.

If possible, cultivate the area where you will be planting the year before, get a soil test to determine any soil nutritional deficiencies and correct them. Make sure the area is weed-free before planting your vines.

To maximize soil heat, avoid areas prone to early spring frost or in a valley where cool air accumulates. You can plant your vines on a mound surrounded by stones to increase warmth near the plant roots. Grass growing near vines can lessen the vigor of the plant’s growth, so removing the grass is beneficial.

Plant grafted grapes to promote early ripening and better resistance to root diseases. It is extremely important when planting grafted vines that the graft is planted well above the finished soil level. The vine will settle in the dirt, so factor this into your planting depth.

Apply organic matter to the soil before you plant in the spring or fall. Compost can be worked into the entire area, not just each hole. Organic mulches cool the soil, so avoid using them. Dark-colored gravel or rocks warm the soil and keep weeds down. Dark-colored poly mulches can be used, but if you have voles, be aware that they will likely find shelter under the plastic layer.

It may be necessary to use low nitrogen fertilizers after the first year because grapes can grow aggressively and deprive the soil of nutrients. An annual application of lime or sulfur-potassium-magnesium with micronutrients can be beneficial to raise the pH to the desired 6.8-7 range.

Irrigation is especially important in the first two years while your vines establish themselves. Pruning and training canes is dependent on whether you are growing table or wine grapes and can vary slightly with every grape variety and the age of your vines. For more information on trellising and pruning, look up the “Study of Grapes and Wine with WSU” at the Viticulture & Enology (https://wine.wsu.edu/extension/grapes-vineyards/), or Oregon State University’s “Growing Table Grapes” publication at https://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/pub/ec1639

It will take two to three years before your first harvestable crop and five to six years for grapes to reach full production maturity. Plants have been known to live for 50-100 years with proper care.

As with any plant, it is important to purchase virus-free stock. For the annual plant fair in May, master gardeners propagate nine varieties of grapes from stock obtained from certified plants. Photo: © Ginny Bode

This Vitis lambrusca x vinifera ‘Lynden Blue, growing in the NW Fruit Garden is a great choice for gardeners in cool summer areas who want the full, rich taste of a Concord-style grape, but don’t have the GDD (Growing Degree Days) to ripen actual Concord fruit. Photo: © Ginny Bode

Grapes ripen all at the same time. Color varies with each cultivar. Watch for color change in the stem that supports the cluster, as it will change from green to brown. The seeds also darken as the berry matures.

The best way to judge ripeness in table grapes is a taste test: pick a grape from the tip of the cluster as it is the last to ripen. When growing wine grapes, use a refractometer to measure sugar content (known as Brix) to determine when to harvest.

Use pruning shears to harvest clusters. Don’t leave ripe grapes on the vine because they deteriorate quickly. Store them in vented plastic bags in the refrigerator.

Watch the weather around harvest time. Rain can cause cracking or splitting and increase fruit rot. The best quality is obtained when berries are harvested following two to three days of no rain.

As for pests, deer will eat the plants, so if you have a deer problem, you will need to provide a 7-8-foot fence to keep them out. Birds also find grapes a tasty treat. You might want to net the plants if you lose more to our feathered friends than you can spare.

Like the time it takes for grapes to reach harvest age, it takes years to become an expert grape grower. Look for Washington State University Extension workshops or those offered by trusted local nurseries, as well as publications from WSU Extension (extension.wsu.edu) or through other university articles to get a good place to start.

Dream no more of having your own vineyard and begin planning now. There is no time like the present; your journey will be worth the reward.

REFERENCES AND RESOURCES:
Moyer, M., Henick-Kling, T. (2014). Growing Winegrapes in Maritime Western Washington. Washington State University Extension #EM068E. Retrieved from: https://pubs.extension.wsu.edu/growing-winegrapes-in-maritime-western-washington-replaces-eb2001

Strik, B. (2011, rev. 2023). Growing Table Grapes. Oregon State University Extension #EC1639 Retrieved from:  https://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/pub/ec1639

Grapevines. Clean Plant Center Northwest. Washington State University. Retrieved from: https://cpcnw.wsu.edu/grapevines/

Study of Grapes and Wine with WSU. Grapes & Vineyards | WSU Viticulture and Enology | Washington State University  Retrieved from: https://wine.wsu.edu/extension/grapes-vineyards/

Taylor, J. Growing Backyard Grapes in the Puget Sound Region. NW Fruit, Mount Vernon, WA. Retrieved from: NWFruit.org >

Pike, D. (Apr. 2015). Growing Grapes in the Northwest, Grow Northwest. Retrieved from: https://grownorthwest.com/2015/04/growing-grapes-in-the-northwest/

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
Kathy Wolfe has been a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener since 2002. She is co-manager of the vegetable garden at the Discovery Garden on SR 536 west of Mount Vernon.

Become a
Master Gardener in 2025,
applications due Oct. 31.

Questions about becoming a Master Gardener may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: https://extension.wsu.edu/skagit/mg/

Protect and Replenish Your Garden Soil with a Cover Crop

What do you do with your garden beds after you’ve harvested the season’s fruits, vegetables, and flowers?

By: Valerie Rose, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Don’t leave the soil exposed to winter rain and wind – protect your precious garden soil with a cover crop. Garden crops draw nutrients from the soil, and cover crops replenish these nutrients. Think of it as home-grown fertilizer.

Cover crops are sometimes known as green manures. Farmers spread composted animal manure on fields, a traditional fertilizer source, replenishing soil nutrients following the harvest. Cover crops are a green, plant-based fertilizer that feeds the soil without animal products, hence the term ‘green manure.’

Cover crops do many important jobs at once, working quietly in the soil when it’s too cold for even the heartiest gardeners to lift a trowel. They include many species of plants: grains, grasses, and legumes (beans and peas). These versatile plants can suppress weeds, retard erosion, add organic matter, and store nutrients for future plants. Organic matter builds better soil structure and fertility, increasing water retention, drainage, and aeration.

Cover crops grow food for the soil instead of ingredients for a salad. When planted in autumn, cover crops are dug into the garden bed in the spring. Once tilled back into the soil, cover crops break down, adding nutrients and organic matter, nourishing next year’s garden. They also provide necessary food for earthworms and microorganisms. Cover crop plants are genuinely masters of multi-tasking.

Many Varieties to Choose From
You have many choices of cover crop plants with differing benefits. Adding and replenishing nitrogen, an essential plant nutrient, clover is a real gift. Clovers are nitrogen-fixers; they take atmospheric nitrogen from the air through the plant leaves and convert it into a form that plants can use. These generous plants store this vital nutrient in small nodules on the roots with the help of soil bacteria called rhizobia. When the plants decay in the ground (or are tilled into the soil), the nitrogen is available to feed other plants. Gardeners should plant crimson clover from September through mid-October and till it under in the spring. Crimson clover is this gardener’s favorite cover crop; I till under most of the plants, leaving a dozen or two to flower. The glorious red blooms are a welcome food source for pollinators in the spring and make a long-lasting cut flower.

Austrian field peas are another great option. This cold-hardy overwintering pea is an excellent choice for cooler, poorly drained soils, which describes many garden beds we know. You can sow this nitrogen-fixing pea as late as the end of November. Dig the plants into the ground in late April or early May in the spring.

Clovers and peas benefit from ‘inoculation’ – coating the seeds with nitrogen-fixing bacteria before planting. Doing this increases the amount of nitrogen each plant can retain. Most seed dealers sell small packets of inoculum, which are actually bacterial spores of rhizobia.

The inoculum and seeds are an easy, inexpensive way to nourish your hungry soil.

Buckwheat roots loosen the topsoil while accessing phosphorus within the soil, which is then stored in the plant’s tissues returning phosphorus to the soil for the next crop. Photo: © Adobe Stock

Some Choices of “Green Manure” Cover Crops

Retrieved from: https://s3.wp.wsu.edu/uploads/sites/2053/2015/09/list-of-crops-with-garden-coverage.pdf

Don’t Let Them Go To Seed
Cover crops should be tilled or dug into the soil before going to seed. Tilling or digging in is especially important when planting buckwheat, which is sown in summer. Clare Sullivan, a field crops expert for the Oregon State University Extension Service, notes, “The fast growth and dense canopy smothers annual weeds, protects the soil from erosion, and helps conserve soil moisture. The abundance of blossoms attracts pollinators and beneficial insects, and in a pinch, buckwheat can be added to a bouquet.”

Buckwheat roots loosen the topsoil while accessing phosphorus within the soil, which is then stored in the plant’s tissues. “When buckwheat residues are returned to the soil, the phosphorus becomes available for the next crop,” Sullivan said.

Cover Crops on Farms
Gardeners and farmers alike benefit from planting specific crops. Many farmers renew the health of their soil with cover crops. They may plant entire fields or in rows between orchard fruit trees. The Skagit Conservation District’s Cover Crop Grant Program helps eligible farmers purchase seed.

Farmers may plant cereal grasses like oats, barley, or rye. Rye is one of the most commonly grown cover crops on Northwest farms. This crop is vigorous, very cold-hardy, and can germinate and establish in cool weather. Rye grows rapidly in the spring, so it can become difficult to turn under by the time gardeners are ready to work their gardens. Mowing or weed whacking may be necessary before incorporating a heavy cover crop of cereal rye.

Livestock can enjoy grazing on cover crops such as triticale or winter rye. Even a variety of radish is used as a cover crop! Unlike radishes grown in vegetable gardens, the Forage radish loosens soil rather than enhancing a salad. Also known as “tillage radish,” their large roots “till” deep into the ground, naturally aerating the soil. Forage radishes also provide excellent food for wildlife.

Adding a cover crop to your garden is a small task with large benefits. “It seems really unlikely that you’re planting a seed in October that’s going to somehow magically do something good for you,” says David Kidwell-Slak, the National Plant Materials Center Manager for the National Resource Conservation Center. “[But] they provide a lot of benefits without much effort. It makes a pretty amazing addition to the garden.”

REFERENCES AND RESOURCES:
Cogger, C., Benedict, C. and Andrews, N. (2014) Cover Crops for Home Gardens West of the Cascades. Washington State University Extension Publication FS111E. https://pubs.extension.wsu.edu/cover-crops-for-home-gardens-west-of-the-cascades-home-garden-series

McNiff, N. (2022) Cover Crops Benefit Both Commercial Farmers and Urban Gardeners. Farm Production and Conservation Business Center, USDA. https://www.farmers.gov/blog/cover-crops-benefit-both-commercial-farmers-and-urban-gardeners

Allison, J. (3/19/21) Conservation District Program Helps Skagit Farmers Plant Winter Cover Crops. Skagit Valley Herald, GoSkagit. Retrieved from: https://www.goskagit.com/news/local_news/conservation-district-program-helps-skagit-farmers-plant-winter-cover-crops/article_5021e864-1dc7-5490-abf2-f69cca34828d.html 

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
Valerie Jean Rose became a Master Gardener in 2009. A former journalist, she enjoys playing with words and plants-particularly her own vegetables.

There is still time
to apply to become
a Master Gardener in 2025
Questions about becoming a Master Gardener may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: https://extension.wsu.edu/skagit/mg/
Sample Apples and Pears at NW Fruit
On Saturday, October 12 NW Fruit will hold its Sample the Apple and Pear Harvest Day. It is open to members, but anyone can attend by paying a $25 annual membership fee that day. Dr. Cameron Peace of WSU’s School of Horticulture (Pulman) will speak about heritage apple varieties and using DNA to identify varieties. There will be a tour of the many pioneer varieties in the garden and a chance to taste dozens of delicious cultivars thriving in the garden. Bags or boxes of ladder-picked fruit will be available for members to take home in addition to other fruit. Go to the website https://nwfruit.org/apple-pear/ to read more about this event.

The Fig Tree-A Horticultural Challenge

Though best suited for a Mediterranean climate, figs can be successfully grown in the Pacific Northwest.

By: Sonja Nelson, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Gardeners are adventurous folks, always on the lookout for a new and captivating plant to add interest to their gardens. One such beckoning horticultural challenge is the edible fig tree (Ficus carica). An example of a mature, edible fig can be found at the edge of the NW Fruit Garden on State Route 536 west of Mount Vernon. Located next to the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Discovery Garden, the NW Fruit Garden features over 200 fruit cultivars, including fig trees.

Although edible figs are widely grown in Europe’s warm Mediterranean basin, the climate of the Pacific Northwest is too cool for many varieties. However, the mature edible fig is part of NW Fruit’s experimental planting program to find the best fruits for growing in our area.

The fig specimen is the cultivar ‘Desert King,’ about 10 feet tall. The white bark on this multi-trunked, deciduous shrub is a pleasing contrast to its large, three-lobed, dark green leaves veined a lighter green. In July, the pear-shaped fruit is dark green (see photo), but the skin changes to greenish white when ripe.

One of the First Plants Cultivated
Each plant in our gardens has a story to tell. However, the fig tree story may be one of the most captivating. Judging from fossils found dating from 9400-9200 BC in the Jordan Valley, which today forms the border between Jordan and Israel, the fig is believed to be one of the first plants cultivated by humans, preceding the domestication of wheat, barley, and legumes by a thousand years. Figs were widespread in ancient Greece and described by Aristotle. They were also a common food source for the Romans. Rome’s first emperor, Augustus, was poisoned with figs from his garden that his wife smeared with poison. The well-known Biblical source in the Book of Genesis refers to Adam and Eve using fig leaves to cover their private parts in shame for eating the forbidden fruit. From the 15^th century, the edible fig was grown in Northern Europe and the New World. In 1769, missionaries brought the first figs to California.
The Interesting Botany of the Fig
The edible fig fruit humans consume for its delectable sweetness is produced by Ficus carica, one of over 800 fig species in the genus Ficus. The three types of edible figs are distinguished from one another by their pollination process. The type most amenable to growing in our area is the “common fig.” The fruit skin, referred to by botanists as its “syconium,” is 1-2 inches long and green in color that ripens to purple or brown. Its interior is lined with unisexual flowers that produce seeds through a process called “parthenogenesis,” a natural form of asexual reproduction. The single-seeded fruits line the inside of the syconium, producing soft, reddish flesh containing crunchy seeds.

Most varieties of figs can produce two crops a year. The first crop is called “Breba,” which bears fruit on last year’s wood, and the second is called “Main,” which bears fruit on the current year’s wood. The Puget Sound region is usually too cool to ripen the Main crop.

Fig Research and Much, Much More
Figs are among the many varieties of fruit tested for research in the NW Fruit Garden. Recently, a new row of fig trees was planted with eight fig trees, and another row will be planted soon. The group is also planning to install a protective structure to demonstrate how to cover and protect figs in winter.

NW Fruit’s search for fig tree varieties that grow well in the Northwest extends worldwide. For instance, NW Fruit volunteer and co-chair Sam Benowitz traveled to the Brittany region in northwest France to observe and get a cutting of the fig variety ‘Madeleine de deux Saisons’ to grow and test at NW Fruit. Other new varieties include: ‘Little Ruby,’ ‘Olympian,’ ‘Brown Turkey,’ ‘Nordland,’ ‘Grantham’s Royal,’ and ‘Lattarula.’ Benowitz is a longtime volunteer at NW Fruit. Sam established and owned Raintree Nursery near Morton, Washington in 1972, building it into one of the country’s leading edible fruits nurseries, prior to selling it in 2018. His enthusiasm for his work is characteristic of the garden volunteers caring for and testing the many fruit varieties.

The Western Washington Fruit Research Foundation, now called NW Fruit, was created in 1991 to help support the tree fruit research at the Washington State University (WSU) Northwestern Washington Research & Extension Center (NWREC) Fruit Horticulture Program in Mount Vernon. It is dedicated to supporting research and educating the public about the special fruit-growing conditions of the Pacific Northwest region.

The six-acre NW Fruit Garden currently has over 200 fruit cultivars growing for research and demonstration to the public.

Growing Figs in the Ground
The climate of the Pacific Northwest differs from that of the Mediterranean region, where the species Ficus Caria is native. Although our climate is sometimes compared to a Mediterranean one because of its warm, dry summers, it falls short of being ideal for many varieties of figs. Hence, Sam Benowitz traveled to France’s Brittany area to find edible fig varieties from a climate more like ours and test them at NW Fruit.

Ficus carica ‘Desert King’ at the NW Fruit Garden. Photo: © Sonja Nelson

NW Fruit volunteer Sam Benowitz kneels next to a recently planted variety of Ficus carica. This fig is one in a row of eight fig trees planted at NW Fruit to test for adaptability to the Pacific Northwest climate. Photo: © Sonja Nelson

The edible fig, Ficus carica, and its varieties thrive in rich soil and a warm microclimate. The high temperatures sometimes experienced in our area should not be a problem for figs. However, in temperatures below 10 degrees F, plants may need cover. From his experience at NW Fruit, Benowitz believes the most significant shortcoming of our climate for figs is the lack of summer heat during the growing season. The program experiments on-site with techniques, such as walls that capture heat. Regular watering of the fig trees in the garden is necessary, especially as they start. An irrigation system is set to water the figs once a week throughout the summer.

The soil for in-ground figs should be slightly acidic (6.0 – 6.5). Allow spread for fibrous, shallow root systems. Do not fertilize at planting time, but mulch with compost. Training a young fig tree involves spacing the branches and forcing them to one main trunk. Figs can also be trained to an open center or vase shape, allowing good light penetration into the canopy. In training a newly planted tree, cut it to 2 to 3 feet in height, forcing lateral buds to produce new, low branches. In the following winter, select three to four main branches, cut them back to 30-36 inches, and remove the rest. Annual pruning, which should be done in the dormant season, is usually limited to cutting back the previous year’s growth. Thinning may be necessary if the canopy gets too dense. The leaf and root sap of fig trees may cause skin irritation in humans.

Growing Figs in Containers
In the Northwest, fig trees can be planted in containers in any season. Place the pot where you want it to go, preferably in full sun, and add a few inches of well-draining potting mix to the bottom. Place the tree at the same planting depth in which it was growing in the nursery pot. Then, backfill the remainder of the pot with potting mix. The fig’s root ball should be level with the soil line, but leave two inches of space between the soil and the rim of the pot to make watering easier. Add a thin layer of organic mulch around the base of the water line. Water when the top two inches of soil feels dry to the touch. Fertilize in the spring and fall with a balanced, organic fertilizer. Pruning, if necessary, should be done in winter. Ripe figs should be slightly soft and sweet smelling and begin drooping on their stems. Figs with hard necks that remain perpendicular to their stems are not yet ripe and should not be picked.

The dwarf fig ‘Little Miss Figgy’ was developed for use in a container. Planted in June, this specimen has thrived in a container on the patio of a home in Mount Vernon. Photo: © Sonja Nelson

Learn more about Figs and the extensive collection of fruit cultivars at the NW Fruit Open House
On Saturday, October 12 NW Fruit will hold its Sample the Apple and Pear Harvest Day. It is open to members, but anyone can attend by paying a $25 annual membership fee that day. Dr. Cameron Peace of WSU’s School of Horticulture (Pulman) will speak about heritage apple varieties and using DNA to identify varieties. There will be a tour of the many pioneer varieties in the garden and a chance to taste dozens of delicious cultivars thriving in the garden. Bags or boxes of ladder-picked fruit will be available for members to take home in addition to other fruit. Go to the website https://nwfruit.org/apple-pear/ to read more about this event.

NW Fruit is a member-volunteer organization. It includes people who have spent a lifetime growing fruit and people who are just starting on their own journey of learning how to grow fruit successfully. For more information on volunteering, see: https://nwfruit.org

The foliage of ‘Desert King’ fig in the NW Fruit Garden in July. Photo: © Sonja Nelson

Get started growing figs. Several varieties will be on sale at the annual Master Gardener Plant Fair May 10, 2025 Photo: © Skagit County Master Gardener Foundation
REFERENCES AND RESOURCES:

Benowitz, Sam, NW Fruit Co-Chair. Personal communication, 7/18/ 2024.

Landers, L. How to Grow a Fig Tree in a Pot. Better Homes and Gardens, 5-10-23
Retrieved from: https://www.bhg.com/how-to-grow-a-fig-tree-in-a-pot-7487022

Fruit Garden Tour – Fig

https://nwfruit.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fig

Morgan, P. (2023) Figs in the Home Garden. Pennsylvania State University Extension. Retrieved from: https://extension.psu.edu/figs-in-the-home-garden

Biggs, S. (2021) How to Grow Figs Even in Colder Climates. Fine Gardening. Tauten Press, Newton, CT. Retrieved from: https://www.finegardening.com/project-guides/fruits-and-vegetables/how-to-grow-figs-even-in-colder-climates

Figs and Kiwi Fruit. Snohomish County WSU Extension Community Fact Sheet #46 Retrieved from: s3.wp.wsu.edu>2053/2015/09>46FigsKiwiFruit

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
Sonja Nelson is a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Class of 2009.

There is still time
to apply to become
a Master Gardener in 2025
Questions about becoming a Master Gardener may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: https://extension.wsu.edu/skagit/mg/

A Second Act for Your Square 1-Gallon Pots at the Discovery Garden!

Bring your leftover square 1-gallon pots to the Discovery Garden (16650 State Route 536, Mount Vernon). The bin for recycling the square 1-gal pots is located in the parking lot, just north (to the right) of the main entrance.
We only need square 1-gallon pots like the ones pictured below (bottom right). The recycling bin will be available now through fall. Simply put your pots into the bin, and we take care of the rest!

Useful Tips for Harvesting and Preserving Herbs in the Pacific Northwest

Preserving herbs can be a bit of trial and error, but the process is worth the fresh flavor and satisfaction.

By: Laura Kuhn, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Because of their useful nature, herbs are a common addition to home gardens. The use of the term herb is often used interchangeably with spice. However, the terms herbs and spices technically refer to two different things. “Herbs” are defined as the leafy parts of plants, such as oregano, rosemary, thyme, sage, basil, and others. “Spices” typically involve the use of other plant parts such as roots, fruits, flowers, seeds, or bark. Spices include cinnamon, ginger, lavender, coriander, cumin, and many others. Both herbs and spices are used for their savory, aromatic, or medicinal qualities. This article will focus primarily on herb preservation, although many methods mentioned here can also apply to spices.

Gardeners who grow vegetables may also grow herbs for pairing in recipes later. However, some of the best pairings cannot be harvested at the same time. For example, basil can look tired by the time the tomatoes are ready to be harvested. And it is difficult to find an easy, cost-effective way to have bunches of fresh cilantro available at the same time tomatoes and peppers ripen for salsa. Preserving herbs can help to bridge these gaps.

In 2002, when faced with a huge abundance of herbs that could not all be used fresh, I bought one of the popular “As Seen On TV” food dehydrators and dried herbs to make gifts for the following holiday season. The color and flavor of home-dried herbs are superior to store-bought herbs. Since then, I have also started to grow herbs and spices to make tea.

An often-asked question is: What is the best way to preserve herbs? The answer depends on how you plan to use them. The goal is to capture the essential oils in the trichomes (fine outgrowth like hairs) on the surface or epidermal layer of the leaves. These oils have the flavor and aroma we want.

What gardeners choose to grow and preserve is most influenced by the amount of time, budget, and available space. The good news is that with a small investment in time, space, and equipment, home gardeners can achieve excellent results that rival the expensive options available.

Oregano ripe for harvest. © Photographer: Laura Kuhn

Stevia and ornamental oregano in a vertical container with annuals. © Photographer: Laura Kuhn
Growing Herbs-
Herbs can grow in most garden conditions and be planted directly in the ground, in raised beds, or in containers. Vertical garden systems are a terrific way to get a lot of variety in a small space. Gardeners who are just starting herb growing should start slowly and do their research. Purchasing herb starts at a local garden center is an easy and inexpensive way to begin. However, a far greater selection of herbs are available as seeds. Once gardeners have experience, they can grow their favorites from seed and make space for annual and perennial varieties.
Harvesting Herbs-
The harvesting process is as simple as removing the right part of the plant for the intended use. For most culinary uses, the target is tender fresh leaves (i.e., oregano, thyme, and basil). In some cases, the goal is to preserve flowers for making tea (i.e., chamomile, calendula, or anise hyssop) or to harvest the plant’s mature seeds (i.e., dill or coriander). Yet other plants are used for their roots (i.e., ginger or horseradish). If growing for flowers, it is important to pick the flowers often to encourage the production of more blooms.

For leafy herbs such as basil and oregano, the best flavor comes from young leaves on stems cut before the plant goes into flower production. However, the growing season can be extended by cutting back flowering stem tops to encourage more leaf growth. When doing so, leave four to six leaves on the plant stems for re-growth. If growing for seed, keep the flowers on the plants and wait until the seeds are fully mature. Root harvests take a longer time commitment and can require waiting for several growing seasons to achieve a decent harvest.

Organization is important during the harvesting process. It is best to harvest all of one specific plant at a time, making the cleaning and preservation process easier by avoiding the time-consuming task of separating during the cleaning process. For harvesting, no special tools are needed. Most herbs are tender enough to harvest by hand pinching or using scissors. Small clippers with short-tipped blades are best for harvesting small leaves or stems. Digging roots is a careful process. It is important to provide wide enough margins to avoid shovel damage to the roots.

Mammolo and Lettuce Leaf basils ready for drying in the dehydrator. © Photographer: Laura Kuhn
Preserving Herbs –
After harvesting, the herbs require cleaning before preserving. Most herbs can be immersed in cool water to clean off the leaves (stem and all). Use paper towels, a drying rack on a work surface, or a salad spinner to get as much moisture off as possible. Avoid crushing the leaves unless the herbs are chopped before preserving them. Chives can be washed and cut into small pieces with scissors by holding a bunch of stems and cutting them as a group before preserving them.

The preservation method should strive to achieve the best quality for the intended use. Scientific research has been conducted on various methods of preservation. The winning method for drying herbs is freeze drying because it preserves essential oils, aroma, and color best. However, the cost of such a system for most home gardeners is not reasonable. Therefore, the most common methods involve dehydration (using heat) or drying (using air), which results in a shelf-stable product that can be used year-round, or by freezing.

Bunching and cutting chives to cut and freeze or dry. © Photographer: Laura Kuhn

Echinacea (foreground) and lavender at a local nursery. © Photographer: Laura Kuhn

Chamomile ready to harvest in the Herb Garden at the Discovery Garden. © Photographer: Laura Kuhn

Calendula and various herbs in the Discovery Garden. © Photographer: Laura Kuhn

Humidity levels in the Pacific Northwest, particularly western Washington, are a challenge to herb preservation and storage. Humidity levels should be 45-55 percent for proper drying and to avoid mold. Even during our drier summer months, average outdoor humidity levels are more than 60 percent. The water content in the herbs being dried is also a consideration. The more tender herbs, such as basil, tarragon, oregano, lemon balm, and mints, tend to have a higher water content. On the other hand, sage, thyme, parsley, and rosemary tend to be more “woody” and have a lower water content. Taking this into account before picking a preservation method increases the chances of success.

Drying with Air–
Drying with air is by far the easiest method of preserving herbs but difficult to master successfully given Pacific Northwest humidity levels. Mold can form on plants, or the dried product will be limp and discolored. Make small bunches of plant stems, wrap with butcher’s twine, and hang the bunches up. The drying area will need to have good ventilation (an oscillating fan works great). Avoid exposure to light during drying as it will affect the color. A barometer or humidity gauge helps decide if drying is possible. Woody plants such as rosemary and sage are best for this process due to humidity levels. The amount of time needed to dry the plants and crush the leaves will vary based on weather and drying conditions. Checking plants often is the best way to gauge if they are ready.

Bunches of herbs ready for hang drying. © Photographer: Laura Kuhn

Failed attempt at airdrying parsley and lemon balm. Conditions were too humid for effective drying. Note loss of color in parsley to the left. © Photographer: Laura Kuhn
Dehydrating with Heat–
The National Center for Home Food Preservation recommends drying herbs at 95 to 115 degrees Fahrenheit. Lower temperatures are best for tender plants. Since most home ovens cannot achieve the recommended temperatures for herb drying, food dehydrators have become popular. Many dehydrators come with wire racks so air can flow through the leaves. Arrange the leaves/stems across the rack so they are not touching. Overcrowding during the drying process can result in longer dry times. You can use a mesh-style rack for small leaves to provide air circulation. A tip for selecting a decent food dehydrator is to make sure that it can adjust the drying temperature and time. Select a unit that can dry at as low a temperature as possible to provide the most control over the drying process and quality. Increased heat levels might be needed to compensate for humidity levels. Using heated air to dry herbs can result in a higher loss of essential oils than using air-dried herbs. The amount of time needed to achieve a crisp, dry product that can be easily crushed is variable. Humidity, plant water content, and temperature are all factors to consider. For this reason, I recommend checking on the plants often during the drying process.

For either drying method mentioned above, it is important to note that any moisture left in the plants after drying can lead to spoilage. If your drying space seems to be “too moist” meaning you cannot achieve a crisp dry texture, increase the temperature, and air circulation. A process of trial and error may be needed as the time of year and the water content of plants can vary.

To prepare the dried herbs for storage, the leaves are removed from stems and crushed to the desired size. A tip for this step is to place the dried herbs into a bag and push the leaves off the stems. Set aside stems as you push the leaves into the bag. When the biggest stems are removed, crush the leaves inside of the bag to the desired size. Sift through the dried product to remove smaller stems to achieve the best consistency for cooking. Rougher dried herbs can be used for teas. It really is up to personal preference as to how “clean” the final product will be. Some choose sifters or screens to further improve the visual appeal of the end product.

Dehydrator full of racks of calendula and anise hyssop. © Photographer: Laura Kuhn

Fresh chopped basil freezes well when packed in ice cube trays then filled with water or oil. Once frozen, the basil cubes can be stored in a large freezer bag and used as needed. © Photographer: Laura Kuhn
Freezing –
A quick and straightforward way to preserve herbs for later use in cooking is by freezing. Individual leaves can be placed in single layers on cookie sheets and then flash frozen. Cut chives work well this way. Once frozen, place the herbs into storage containers to reduce exposure to air. Another freezing method is to chop the herbs and load them into ice cube trays, then fill with water. Once frozen, put the cubes into storage containers and add them to recipes when needed. Alliums (onions and garlic) can be easily processed this way, also. The biggest downside to freezing is the required storage space in your freezer and a shorter shelf life.

Other methods include layering whole leaves in salt or oil. Herb essential oils can be transferred to other liquids for use in cooking. For example, herbs can be steeped to create herb-infused vinegars or oils. These methods take more time and care than can be covered here, so more research and preparation should be taken before trying these options. Microwaving takes a bit of trial and error to get the right cooking time for the type of herb used and varies with different types of machines.

Most herbs can be processed successfully in a variety of ways for different uses. A good tip is to experiment and see which techniques work best. Gardeners who experiment, find the methods that work best for their intended use.

Air tight containers and light blocking storage bin for dried herbs. © Photographer: Laura Kuhn
Storing Herbs –
Dried or dehydrated herbs do not like exposure to light and air, especially moist air. A simple and effortless way to store extra dried herbs is to put them into marked zip lock bags or a vacuumed sealed mason jar. Once each herb is in its container, they will need to be placed in a dark area like inside of a canister or storage container. Keep your herbs in a cool dry area because exposure to heat during storage can affect essential oil content. Storage time will vary on the herb, but if stored properly, they can last for months or longer.

The two most important tips of all are to grow what you will use and grow from seed for the best plant selection.

REFERENCES AND RESOURCES:

Rodale’s Encyclopedia of Herbs, May 2000, Rodale Press

Drying: Herbs, National Center for Home Food Preservation, University of Georgia, no date cited. https://nchfp.uga.edu/how/dry/recipes/herbs/

Thamkaew, G., Sjöholm, I., & Galindo, F. G. (2020). A review of drying methods for improving the quality of dried herbs. Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition, 61(11), 1763-1786. https://doi.org/10.1080/10408398.2020.1765309

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
Laura is new to the Skagit Valley but has more than 30 years of experience growing in coastal, inland valley, and desert climates. She had fun trying to grow herbs while traveling full-time in an RV. Laura is a 2023 graduate of the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener program.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a Master Gardener, may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: https://extension.wsu.edu/skagit/mg/

A Second Act for Your Square 1-Gallon Pots at the Discovery Garden!

Bring your leftover square 1-gallon pots to the Discovery Garden (16650 State Route 536, Mount Vernon). The bin for recycling the square 1-gal pots is located in the parking lot, just north (to the right) of the main entrance.
We only need square 1-gallon pots like the ones pictured below (bottom right). The recycling bin will be available now through fall. Simply put your pots into the bin, and we take care of the rest!

To Plant or Not to Plant: Trees to Avoid Planting in Your Yard

These endangered trees are likely to decline or die from the impacts of non-native insects and pathogens.

By: Alison Hitchcock, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Master gardeners are often asked for recommendations of trees to plant. These requests come in two flavors: what is the best tree for the clients’ preferences and landscape conditions, or what trees are inappropriate and best avoided? Many reputable websites provide numbered lists of the “best backyard trees” or, conversely, a catalog of “trees that you should, never, ever plant.”

The compilations of “trees that you should never, ever plant” tend to concentrate on undesirable characteristics such as messy or foul-smelling fruits, brittle stems, or heavy pollen production. Few include warnings concerning those species likely to decline or die from the impacts of non-native insects and pathogens.

The purpose here is to highlight tree species especially vulnerable to current and looming threats and suggest they should be added to your own “avoid planting” list. Property owners are encouraged to take early action by identifying unhealthy trees on their property during National Tree Check Month. 

Most of the public has some awareness of invasive pests; gypsy moth, chestnut blight, and Dutch elm disease are well-known examples. Data from our plant clinics shows that many other pests, more recent or less widespread, are well established in our area and have the potential for severe impacts of which the local community is generally unaware. The local community is generally unaware of many of these.

Noble fir with balsam woolly adelgid near Burlington Library © Photographer: Alison Hitchcock

Healthy noble fir © Photographer: Jeff Bisbee, USFS

Balsam Woolly Adelgid
The balsam woolly adelgid (BWA) (Adelges pinceae) is a widely established non-native insect that has become a pest of significant importance to all true firs around the county. The adelgid originated in Europe and first appeared in the Northwest during the 1920s. BWA shows up at the clinic every year, primarily on noble fir trees.

Adelgids are small, aphid-like insects that are always associated with conifers. A white and dense woolly wax covers adult adelgids. As it sucks sap from branches and boles (main stem below the branches) of a host tree, the balsam woolly adelgid injects a salivary substance that induces changes to the sapwood. The tree responds with knoblike, “gouty” swellings, which reduces the tree’s ability to translocate food and water.

Trees with crown infestations of BWA may take many years to die, while those with severe stem infestations die within five years, which is particularly important to Christmas tree growers. Control is difficult without a strict regimen of insecticide applications. Noble fir trees with chronic infections are scattered throughout Skagit County. (This author has yet to see a mature tree free of the disease). Look for tall trees with thinning crowns, dead branches, and an unaesthetic appearance.

White Pine Blister Rust
White pine blister rust is a fungal pathogen introduced from Asia. The fungus only attacks pines with clusters of 5 needles (white pines and not those with 2 or 3 needles.) This disease has virtually eliminated western white pine in western forests, causing a severe decline in native whitebark and bristlecone pines, both important ecological species. While all North American white pines are highly susceptible, non-native 5-needle pines have much lower infection rates.

The disease entered the US through infected nursery stock from Europe during the 1900s. Because tree nurseries in the United States were not yet well established, seedlings were grown (using native eastern white pine seed) in Europe and shipped to this country to meet reforestation needs. Because the first signs of infection are very subtle, the rust-infected seedlings were unknowingly imported.

White pine blister rust affects trees of all ages and sizes but spreads more quickly in areas with extended, cool, moist conditions during late summer and early fall. Pines are infected through needle stomata on wet needles. Following infection, the fungus grows down the needle and into the bark, where a perennial canker forms, eventually girdling and killing the branch. Branch infections are not too serious unless very abundant; stem infections are generally fatal.

White pine blister rust on the trunk. © Photographer: J. Schwandt, USFS, Bugwood

Infected western white pine removed from Salal Native Plant Garden. © Photographer: Alison Hitchcock

Most infections occur near the ground, where needles remain wet from dew and poor air circulation. Infections are apt to be lethal in young trees because branches are near ground level, and cankers develop closer to the main stem. Early pruning of diseased branches can be effective in reducing infection movement into the main stem and also help to increase air exchange. Prune juvenile trees as early as possible without removing excessive crown area, and gradually remove lower branches as the trees mature.

Those familiar with the Salal Native Plant Garden located south of the Discovery Garden (on Memorial Highway) may remember a western white pine that once existed immediately behind the Discovery Garden greenhouse. Despite heroic pruning efforts to keep the infection from spreading, the tree slowly succumbed to the disease and died. A small shrub in the Discovery Garden’s Fall and Winter garden room recently suffered a similar fate once the disease entered the main bole.

The current strategy for reintroducing western white pine to state and national forests is to increase the frequency of rust-resistant individuals across the landscape. The USDA Forest Service’s Pacific Northwest Region has had a screening and breeding program to develop resistance to the disease since the late 1950’s. Each year, resistant stock is grown at government nurseries to be out-planted in Oregon and Washington forests; unfortunately, infection rates continue to be high.

Bronze birch borer. © Photographer: Steve Katovich, Bugwood

Dead branches of infected birch trees in the Fred Meyer (Burlington) parking lot have been cut off. Dead trees have been removed. © Alison Hitchcock

Bronze Birch Borer
The bronze birch borer is a native insect that is a serious pest of ornamental birch trees, especially some white-barked species. While all species of birch can be attacked, non-native species are the most susceptible to injury. Borers primarily attack weakened, older, or drought-stressed trees. Problems regarding declining and dying birches have become an increasingly common issue seen at plant clinics during the last five years due to recurring droughts.

An early warning sign of borer damage is yellowing and thinning of foliage in the upper tree crown. The foliage will turn brown and drop from the branches by late summer. Infestations usually begin in ¾” to 1″ diameter branches, with symptoms progressing down the tree to the main trunk over successive years. Borers mine flat, irregular, winding galleries just beneath the bark, feeding in the phloem and severely injuring the vascular system. Attacked trees that survive will form callous tissue in the mines, which will become raised areas visible through the bark. Adult emergence holes are ‘D’ shaped and commonly accompanied by mottled, brown staining on the bole.

Borers do not survive in healthy trees, so keeping trees vigorous and adequately watered and planting resistant varieties is advised. A good look at the effects of borer damage can be seen on the non-native birches planted throughout the Fred Meyer parking lot in Burlington.

Emerald Ash Borer
The emerald ash borer (EAB) is a bright, green, buprestid beetle that lays eggs in the bark of ash trees. The larvae bore into the tree and feed on phloem tissue, effectively gridling the tree and resulting in tree mortality in as little as two years.

 Research has shown that EAB infested ash trees in Michigan 10 to 12 years before its initial discovery in 2002. The EAB probably entered the United States on solid wood packing material carried in cargo ships or planes originating in its native Asia. Since its arrival, the EAB has spread rapidly across North America and wiped out ash tree populations in the northeast. Green, white, black, blue, and pumpkin ash are on the listed “critically endangered” list. The insect has been found in 35 states and at least 5 Canadian provinces; it was discovered in Forest Grove, Oregon, in June 2023. Read more about the emerald ash borer in the WSU Publication Emerald Ash Borer and Its Implications for Washington State:https://pubs.extension.wsu.edu/Product/ProductDetails?productId=4755

Emerald ash borer © Photographer: Eric Day, VA Polytech Institute, Bugwood

Emerald ash borer infestation map © USDA Aphis

Research trials have shown that Oregon ash (Fraxinus latifolia), our lone native ash, is highly susceptible to EAB. Ashes have not been widely planted in our residential landscapes but are common in nearby shopping centers and other public areas. Ashes can be found in Burlington’s Best Buy, Costco, and Cascade Mall parking lots.

Beech tree with spreading canker and white patches of beech scale insects.
© Photographer: J. O’Brien USFS Bugwood

Fruiting bodies of neonectria fungus on beech © Photographer: Ansel Oommen, Bugwood
Beech Bark and Beech Leaf Diseases
Beech bark disease (BBD) is a disease of American beech, resulting from the infestation and feeding by the beech bark scale followed by infection with several native fungal species. The fungi cause bark lesions that grow and eventually girdle the tree. Beech scale was introduced into Nova Scotia from Europe in the 1890s and has been slowly progressing through the range of American beech as far south as Tennessee and west to Wisconsin. Over 50% of infected beech trees die within ten years of infestation.

Beech leaf disease (BLD) has been discovered recently, and much about it, including the full cause and how it spreads, is still unknown. It appears to be associated with a nematode, Litylenchus crenatae mccannii. First spotted in the northeast, the disease causes parts of leaves to turn leathery and branches to wither. The blight can kill a mature tree within six to ten years. It has now been documented in Canada and eight other US states.

Beech leaf disease.
© Photographer: J. O’Brien USFS Bugwood

Lesions from beech bark disease. © Photographer: L. Haugen USFS Bugwood

Timely Detection Increases the Chance of Successful Pest Management Efforts

We have yet to see either disease in Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Plant Clinics since beech trees are not native to the Northwest, nor are they widely planted in our area. As a precaution, we do not recommend planting beech.

Every August, the Washington Invasive Species Council asks residents to check the trees on their property for signs of harmful insects or unhealthy trees as part of the National Tree Check Month. As summer progresses, many of the visible impacts from invasive species are most visible. Residents who suspect they have spotted an invasive species or tree disease should submit a report with detailed photographs to the Invasive Species Council’s mobile app or web portal https://invasivespecies.wa.gov/report-a-sighting/.

Pest infestations can be managed or even eradicated if caught early enough. Timely detection increases the chances of success and minimizes the cost of pest management efforts. A few minutes of inspecting your trees this August will help spot invasive insects, plant pathogens, and other types of damage before they have a chance to take hold.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
Alison Hitchcock has been a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener since 2001. Prior to retirement, Alison worked for the Department of Natural Resources as the Northwest Regional Silviculturist.

Join us this coming Tuesday for a free Know and Grow Lecture-

Know & Grow Lecture Series
Season Extenders
Presented by Hallie Kintner
Tuesday, August 20, 2024 ~ 1 p.m.
Free Admission
NWREC Sakuma Auditorium
16650 State Route 536, Mount Vernon

REFERENCES AND RESOURCES:
Burns, K.S., Schoettle, A.W., Jacobi, W.R., Mahalovich, M.F. (2008) Options for the management of white pine blister rust in the Rocky Mountain Region. General Technical Report RMRS-GTR-206. Fort Collins, CO: US Department of Agriculture, Forest Service, Rocky Mountain Research Station. 26 p.

Cale, J.A., Garrison-Johnston, M.T., Teale, S.A. and Castello, J.D. (2017) Beech bark disease in North America: Over a century of research revisited. Forest Ecology Management: Elsevier Science: Amsterdam, Netherlands pp 394:86-103.

Davis, C. and Meyer, T. (2004) Field Guide to Tree Diseases of Ontario. Northern Ontario Development Agreement’s Northern Forestry Program Report TR-46: Sault St. Marie, Ontario, Canada.

Flower, C.E., Knight, K.S., and Gonzalez-Meler, M.A. (2013) Impacts of the emerald ash borer (Agrilus planipennis Fairmaire) induced ash (Fraxinus spp.) mortality on forest carbon cycling and successional dynamics in the eastern United States. Biological Invasions. 15(4): 931-944.

Lovett, G., et al. (2016) Nonnative forest insects and pathogens in the United States: Impacts and policy options Ecological Applications: Washington D.C. vol. 26 (5), pp 1437-1455.

Goheen, E.M., Willhite, E.A. (2006) Field Guide to the Common Diseases and Insect Pests of Oregon and Washington Conifers.USDA Forest Service, Pacific Northwest Region. R6-NR-FID-PR-01-06. Portland, OR.

Johnson, W.T., Lyon, H.H. (1988) Insects that Feed on Trees and Shrubs. Cornell University Press: Ithaca, New York.

Scharpf, R.F. (1993) Diseases of Pacific Coast Conifers. USDA Agriculture Handbook 521: Albany, CA.

Shaw, D.C., Oester, P.T., Filip, G.M. (2009) Managing Insects and Diseases of Oregon Conifers. Oregon State University Extension Service EM 8980: Corvallis, OR.

Sinclair, W.A., Lyon, H.H., Johnson, W.T. (1987) Diseases of Trees and Shrubs. Cornell University Press: Ithaca, New York.

A Second Act for Your Square 1-Gallon Pots at the Discovery Garden!

Bring your leftover square 1-gallon pots to the Discovery Garden (16650 State Route 536, Mount Vernon). The bin for recycling the square 1-gal pots is located in the parking lot, just north (to the right) of the main entrance.
We only need square 1-gallon pots like the ones pictured below (bottom right). The recycling bin will be available now through fall. Simply put your pots into the bin, and we take care of the rest!

What to do with your late-season bargain plant purchases?

Now that you’ve found those irresistible gems at marked-down prices how do you set them up for success in their new home?

By: Diana Wisen, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

It’s late summer, and you’ve found some plants on sale that are calling to you. Gardeners, like everyone else, love a good bargain. But when is a marked-down plant a good buy, or is something better left on the rack? Gardeners tend to be “nurturers” who hope that with plenty of TLC, they can nurture a plant back to full health. That may or may not be possible. You rarely can heal sick plants. Despite your efforts, diseased or heavily damaged plants are not a bargain at any price. Be forewarned! You could be bringing additional problems into your yard.

Nevertheless, you have given into temptation and brought home several marked-down plants. Now, what to do with them? First, take them out of your vehicle as soon as you get home, put them in a shady, cool place, and water them well. Allow the plants to drain. Once they are fully hydrated, do not leave them in standing water. Roots need air and will suffocate if left in standing water for several days. Check for baby slugs by sliding the plant out of its container. Also, check for healthy roots before putting it back in its container. Cut off dead stems, leaves, and flowers, but leave all healthy leaves so the plant can photosynthesize and grow.

Do you have a place in mind for each plant? Buying plants without a place to plant them can lead to a “Driveway Garden” with many potted plants sitting too long on the path to your house while waiting to be planted in your garden. This is not an unheard-of dilemma among gardening friends. However, let’s assume you have a place for your plant. Check for pests, disease, and damaged parts, including the roots, before planting. This should be done before you purchase the plant, but it’s better now than after it’s in the ground. Look for aphids, root maggots, beetle larvae, brown mushy (dead) roots, wounds on the stems, and diseased leaves. Sometimes, you can get away with cutting off diseased portions, but often the disease is in the vascular system and plants don’t “heal” like humans do. If you suspect disease, it is best to put the entire plant in the garbage can, not in your compost pile.

Check for healthy roots. Cut off dead stems, leaves, and flowers, but leave all healthy leaves so the plant can photosynthesize and grow.

Where to put your new plant
Read the plant tag to learn the conditions the plant needs to thrive. Can you provide the right kind of soil and drainage? What about the amount of sun or shade? Heat requirements? Wind protection? Are deer a problem? It is your job to give your plant what it needs. It cannot get up and move to a better site by itself.
How to plant
Planting is best done on a cool day or in the evening of a hot day. Water the plant and the planting spot ahead of time. Dig a hole the same depth as the plant’s root mass and three times as wide. Loosen the soil around the sides of the planting hole so the roots can grow outward. Place the plant in the hole and fill with the soil you took out. Water it in to settle the soil. Light mulching can help retain soil moisture and reduce weeding.

Sometimes marked-down plants are root-bound and some serious root pruning will be needed before planting. © Photographer: Ginny Bode

Cut off circling, broken, kinked or damaged roots. Very long roots may need to be shortened. © Photographer: Ginny Bode

For shrubs and trees, the root flare supporting the trunk should be clearly visible and not covered with soil or mulch. Take the plant out of the container and examine the root zone. Sometimes marked-down plants are root bound and some serious root pruning will be needed before planting. Cut off circling, broken, kinked, or damaged roots. Very long roots may need to be shortened. Do not cut off any of the canopy. Dig a wide, shallow hole, spread the roots straight out in all directions, replace the native soil, and water it in well. Do not stomp on the root zone. Make sure the base of the trunk is at the same level or a bit higher than the soil level. Mulch with arborist chips, keeping them an inch or two from the trunk.

Fertilizing and Care
Sometimes, you can tell by looking at the leaves if a plant is deficient in a nutrient. You need to know what is typical for this plant at this time of year. There are plenty of plants for which yellow or light green leaves are normal. Usually, fertilizing with a diluted nitrogen fertilizer at planting time is helpful. Just go easy on the fertilizer and avoid burning the roots. Too much fertilizer for shrubs, trees, and some perennials can cause excessive weak growth late in the season, which will be subject to winter damage. Soils here in the Pacific Northwest already have plenty of phosphorus. Adding phosphorous can kill the beneficial mycorrhizae. Do not add products such as vitamin B to the soil or spray leaves with a desiccant to prevent wilting. Despite manufacturers’ claims, they are not helpful.

A plant is considered established when its root system can take up sufficient water and nutrients for the plant to grow normally. Some shrubs and trees can take over a year, so remember to water them regularly, even if they are drought-tolerant. An arborist chip or homemade compost mulch will help keep the soil evenly moist and add slowly released nutrients. Most purchased composts are fine for a top dressing to retard water evaporation, but they have little or no nutrients left in them because they have been heated to very high temperatures to kill any possible pathogens. Many gardeners now use the “chop & drop” method of leaving plant debris on the soil to decompose naturally and add nutrients to the soil, becoming nature’s slow-release fertilizer.

PLANT YOUR PLANTS! Don’t let them languish on the driveway.
© Photographer: Ginny Bode
Container plantings require a different regimen.
Use a light soil mix, not garden soil for container planting. Add some of the compost mixed in well. A sufficiently sized drainage hole needs to be in the bottom of the pot. If slugs crawling in are a concern, put a coffee filter over the hole before filling. Do not put pieces of crockery or a layer of gravel over the hole in the container. New research shows this practice, which is frequently recommended in garden books, actually impedes drainage. Put the potting mix soil to the bottom of the pot so the roots will have plenty of room to grow. While urn-shaped containers are beautiful, they are more challenging to change out later on because the rim curves in and large established roots get caught under it and can be very difficult to dig out. Container plantings dry out much faster than in-ground plantings, especially as the roots grow and fill the pot. Frequent watering causes nutrients to be flushed out sooner so container plantings of annuals will need additional fertilizer during the growing season. A slow-release fertilizer can also be used. Always read the directions thoroughly before using any garden product.

Deadhead annuals to keep them blooming until frost. If they start making seeds that process signals the plants to stop producing additional flowers because they are nearing the end of their life cycle. Some containers can be brought indoors in the winter and continue to thrive if there is sufficient light. 

Now it is time to enjoy your new plants. Observe them daily and check to see if they need watering. Watch for plants starting to wilt and water them immediately. It’s OK to water plants in the middle of a hot day. Watering them will not cause leaf scorch but will keep your plants alive.

Some perennials may start to die back because they are at the end of their growing season and beginning to go dormant. Plant them properly, and they will come up next spring. Other perennials can be cut back, and they will produce a flush of new growth and perhaps lightly bloom again. Don’t forget to bait for slugs and snails, which can be treated the same. This time of year slugs are starting to lay their eggs, which look like masses of tiny white pearls in the moist soil. Slugs and snails live deep in the soil during winter. Read more about managing slugs and snails: https://www.skagitmg.org/managing_slugs_snails/

With the long growing season in the Skagit Valley, your new bargain plants can give you many months of pleasure. Enjoy the colors, textures, leaf shapes, plant forms, flowers and seeds, fragrances, and the overall beauty they add to your life and your neighborhood. It’s your garden. Plant what you love.

REFERENCES AND RESOURCES:

WSU Extension Master Gardener Training Course

Chalker-Scott, L. (2008) The Informed Gardener. Seattle, WA: University of Washington Press.

Chalker-Scott, L. (2009) Sustainable Landscapes and Gardens: Good Science-Practical Application. Yakima, WA: GFG Publishing, Inc.

Gilman, J. (2008) The Truth About Garden Remedies-What Works, What Doesn’t, and Why. Portland, OR: Timber Press.

Lowenfels, J. (2013) Teaming with Nutrients: The Organic Gardener’s Guide to Optimizing Plant Nutrition. Portland, OR: Timber Press.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
Diana Wisen has been a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener since 1991 and is the coordinator of the Fuchsia Garden at the Discovery Garden on SR 536 in Mount Vernon.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Mark your calendar for these upcoming master gardener events:

Skagit County Fair
Thursday ~ Sunday, August 8-11, 2024
Skagit County Fairgrounds
Building D
(map)
Visit our booth, see our displays, and talk with master gardeners about how to make your garden beautiful and productive.
Know & Grow Lecture Series
Season Extenders
Presented by Hallie Kintner
Tuesday, August 20, 2024 ~ 1 p.m.
Free Admission
NWREC Sakuma Auditorium
16650 State Route 536, Mount Vernon

A Second Act for Your Square 1-Gallon Pots at the Discovery Garden!

Bring your leftover square 1-gallon pots to the Discovery Garden (16650 State Route 536, Mount Vernon). The bin for recycling the square 1-gal pots is located in the parking lot, just north (to the right) of the main entrance.
We only need square 1-gallon pots like the ones pictured below (bottom right). The recycling bin will be available now through fall. Simply put your pots into the bin, and we take care of the rest!

Keep the Fresh Produce Coming!

With a little effort now, it is possible to bring fresh vegetables to the table until October, November, and beyond.

By: Valerie Rose and Ginny Bode, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners

It can feel heartbreaking to bring in the last head of lettuce, knowing that soon you’ll need to make the transition to store-bought vegetables. But wait, more and more savvy gardeners extend the growing season by planting cool-season vegetables in the warm summer months of July and August. It may seem counter-intuitive until you try it and experience the bounty of harvesting late into the fall.

Selecting the Right Varieties is Key
Planting a fall/winter garden requires seeds and plants proven to grow well in summer heat, then ripen as the daylight shortens and the temperature drops. By planting from July to August, your fall harvest can include leafy greens, cabbage, broccoli, and Brussels sprouts, along with carrots, beets, and other root vegetables. A light frost even brings out the best flavor in collard greens and parsnips! Now is the time to plant, selecting a location with the maximum amount of sunlight as fall moves toward winter.

Be prepared to water seedlings daily as they get started. © Adobe Stock

Kale and other leafy greens do well as fall-season crops. © Adobe Stock

Plan to plant from July to early August. The chart below can be used as a guide along with the information on the back of the seed packet.

Retrieved from: https://extension.wsu.edu/snohomish/fall-and-winter-vegetable-gardens-for-western-washington/

Look for seed catalogs that focus specifically on fall/winter gardening in west coast or northern climates. They feature helpful charts with planting dates. They also include a reminder that gardeners must plant earlier if they’re growing in a colder zone than the seed company’s locations. It is also an option to leave this step to a commercial grower and buy plant starts from a nursery or garden store. Read the label carefully to ensure you’re getting a late-season variety.

Some cool weather crops do not need to be harvested until needed since the cool air and soil can “store” the mature vegetables until you harvest. © Adobe Stock

Bush and pole bean varieties can be planted in July and harvested before first frost. © Adobe Stock

If you have a greenhouse, you can learn from writer and educator Eliot Coleman. He farms year-round in coastal Maine, harvesting fresh produce from snow-covered, unheated greenhouses. In his classic guide, ‘The Winter Harvest Handbook,’ Coleman coaches novice and experienced gardeners in extending the growing season. Another resource, Winter Gardening in Maritime Northwest: Cool Season Crops for the Year-Round Gardener, by Binda Colebrook, is especially suited for our region.

Preparing a Space: Look for the Sunny Side
Make a sun and shade map of your yard or patio. Yes, your container garden can also grow cool-season vegetables if it gets enough sun. Your fall/winter garden needs to be in a spot where the low-lying sun will still find its way into your yard, as it arcs low across the southern sky. Remember, your garden will gain more sun as the deciduous trees conveniently drop their leaves, blocking much less light. Note which buildings and fences on the southern edge of your yard will cast longer shadows as the days get shorter, causing deep shade for months.

Raised beds will keep your garden from drowning in rains that accompany the season change. A bed made of boards or cement blocks also provides an easy place to secure hoops for supporting row covers. Read more about the multiple options to extend the growing season in this Ask a Master Gardener blog article on season extenders: https://www.skagitmg.org/season-extenders/

Getting Started: When to Start Indoors, When to Seed Outdoors
You can either sow seeds directly into the garden or start the seeds indoors to grow sturdy young plants that can later be transplanted. The back of the seed packet may tell you this, or  check out the WSU Extension home vegetable planting guide. The seeds for root crops, such as carrots and beets, are best sown directly in the soil to avoid damaging the roots when transplanting.

Some gardeners prefer to start seeds indoors where they can monitor the soil and protect the seedlings from pests. If you do start seeds indoors, aim to do so 3-8 weeks before planting them in the garden. The exact timing will vary for each vegetable, depending on how long it takes to grow from seed to a transplant-sized seedling. For example, broccoli and cabbage typically take about 5-6 weeks from seed to transplanting. So, it would be best to start broccoli seeds around the beginning of August to have seedlings ready for transplanting by mid-September.

To provide warmth and light for indoor seeds, you can use a sunny window, an electric light with a germination heating mat, or a plastic or glass-covered hot box. It’s essential to plant into a seedling mix, not simply potting soil. After germination, increase lighting to prevent tall, spindly plants. See the Skagit Master Gardener blog article about starting seeds indoors here: https://www.skagitmg.org/indoor-grow-stand/

When moving young plants from indoors to the garden, it’s crucial to gradually harden them off by exposing them to the outdoor environment. Not doing so could cause sunburn and stress for the plants. To harden off the plants, place them in a location outdoors that receives 2-3 hours of sunlight for the first couple of days and bring them inside at night. Gradually increase the time in the sunlight and wind conditions for a week before transplanting into the garden. 

Whether direct planting or transplanting seedlings, prepare the garden soil by adding compost and organic matter to improve its texture and fertility. Be prepared to water daily, during the driest time of the year. You can water by hand, or set up a drip irrigation system to consistently water through the hot days of summer. See the Skagit Master Gardener blog article on drip system: https://www.skagitmg.org/diy-drip-irrigation/

Young carrots mulched with straw. Photo © Valerie Rose

Be sure to mulch between seedlings and rows. Straw or other mulch will retain soil moisture at the plant roots, which is crucial during the warm days at the end of August and in early September. Mulch will also suppress weed growth. Keep in mind that plants grow slowly in the diminished sunlight starting late October. Therefore, some gardeners can grow their plants to harvest stage beginning in late November. Then the cool air and soil can “store” the mature cool weather crops until you harvest. 

The successful gardener will be rewarded by protecting young plants from pests and providing them with some shade if the weather gets too hot. It is important to regularly monitor the growth of the plants, provide adequate support if needed, and address any signs of disease or nutrient deficiencies. 

Take time at the height of summer to plant a fall/winter garden. The fresh, delicious harvest will brighten your autumn and winter meals.

REFERENCES AND RESOURCES:

Coleman, E., Winter Garden Handbook. (2009) Chelsea Green Publishing, White River Junction, Vermont.

Colebrook, B. Winter Gardening in Maritime Northwest: Cool Season Crops for the Year-Round Gardener. (2012) New Society Publishers, Gabriola Island, BC, Canada, V0R 1X0.

Sideham, B. Growing Vegetables in Containers. (2018) University of New Hampshire Extension. Durham, New Hampshire. Retrieved from: University of New Hampshire Extension

Enroth, C. Starting a Garden: Cool Season Vegetables and My Top 5 Cool Season Crops. University of Illinois Extension (March 26, 2020). Retrieved from: University of Illinois Extension 

Koziol, N. Extending the Harvest: Get Ready to Sow Cool-Season Crops. Retrieved from: Chicago Botanic Gardens 

Allen, D. Late Summer or Early Fall is the Time to Plan and Plant. Retrieved from: University of California Northridge

Miles, C., Sterrett, G., Hesnault, L., Benedict, C., Daniels, C. Home Vegetable Gardening in Washington. (2013) Washington State University. Pub. #EM057E. Retrieved from: Washington State University

Andrews, N., Stoven, H., Noordijk, H., Selman, L., Streit, K., Edmunds, B., Bell, N. and Binning, V. Fall and Winter Vegetable Gardening in the Pacific NW. (May 2022) Oregon State University. Retrieved from: Oregon State Extension 

ABOUT THE AUTHORS:
Valerie Rose has been a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener since 2009 and is a veteran at growing fall and winter vegetables. Ginny Bode, MG Class of 2022, is a novice at planting a fall garden and is ready to get started planting.

Mark your calendar for these upcoming master gardener events:

Skagit County Fair
Thursday ~ Sunday, August 8-11, 2024
Skagit County Fairgrounds
Building D
(map)
Visit our booth, see our displays, and talk with master gardeners about how to make your garden beautiful and productive.
Know & Grow Lecture Series
Season Extenders
Presented by Hallie Kintner
Tuesday, August 20, 2024 ~ 1 p.m.
Free Admission
NWREC Sakuma Auditorium
16650 State Route 536, Mount Vernon

A Second Act for Your Square 1-Gallon Pots at the Discovery Garden!

Bring your leftover square 1-gallon pots to the Discovery Garden (16650 State Route 536, Mount Vernon). The bin for recycling the square 1-gal pots is located in the parking lot, just north (to the right) of the main entrance.
We only need square 1-gallon pots like the ones pictured below (bottom right). The recycling bin will be available now through fall. Simply put your pots into the bin, and we take care of the rest!

Update on Western Redcedar Dieback in Skagit Valley Cities

Participate as a citizen scientist documenting the beloved western redcedars in your neighborhood.

By: Sonja Nelson, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

The western redcedar (Thuja plicata) grew at Anacortes, Mount Vernon, and Burlington sites long before city founders officially set the current boundaries in 1879, 1889, and 1902, respectively. This tree species lived amiably with humans at their feet for many years. The trees grew old and tall, thrusting their tips above the human activity below, providing many basic needs for the indigenous communities and later the early European settlers. Like our ancient forebears, modern forest dwellers treasure these trees even though their numbers have dwindled as our cities have grown, and their benefit to humans today is mainly aesthetic. Without the redcedars, our verdant town landscapes of today would suffer significantly from the absence of these green giants in our midst-an almost unthinkable possibility until recently when droughts and heat have taken their toll on Washington’s forests.

Mount Vernon recently celebrated the 100th Anniversary of Hillcrest Park where many of the western redcedars are estimated to also be that old. Photo © Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners

In 2022, the first peer-reviewed research made a definite link between the dieback of western redcedar in the Pacific Northwest and a warmer, drier climate.This research predicts that an upward trend in temperatures will occur. If these higher temperatures do occur, they could well affect the health of our western redcedars in Burlington, Mount Vernon, and Anacortes. as well as other communities in Skagit County. For this post, the author has focused attention on Mount Vernon, Burlington, and Anacortes. See the reference section below for links to data and information about other communities in Skagit County.

Mount Vernon, Burlington, and Anacortes are in the Puget Trough ecoregion, which runs the length of Washington state between the Cascade Mountains in the east, and the Olympic Mountains in the west. 

The native coniferous forest of western redcedar, Douglas fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii), and the western hemlock (Tsuga heterophylla) historically have dominated the Puget Trough ecoregion, thriving in a temperate climate of mild, wet winters and warm, dry summers. So far, the three dominant conifers have managed to survive urban sprawl. However, the signs of redcedar dieback manifestation in the Puget Trough have foresters, including forest experts in the cities of Mount Vernon, Burlington, and Anacortes, monitoring the western redcedars for dieback in their jurisdictions. Trees suffering from dieback can exhibit one or all unhealthy characteristics: a thin crown, topkill, a yellowing crown, and branch dieback. Topkill is one symptom of dieback, where the tree’s top branches die in response to drought or other stressors, such as excessive heat, leaving behind lifeless branches along the top of the tree that are often visible against the horizon. Other factors contributing to dieback include fungi and insects. Dieback of older needles is often normal and not a symptom.

Female cones ripen from September through October with 1-3 seeds per cone. Photo © Sonja Nelson
Western Redcedars Populated the Area Prior to Early Settlement
The towns of Mount Vernon and Burlington, rose from a forest floor where old-growth western redcedar, along with spruce, fir, and other timber, grew with little disturbance. Then, in the late 1880s, logging camps were established on either side of the Skagit River, with official boundaries set at the turn of the 20^th century. No old-growth western redcedars remain within the cities’ limits. Still, the remnants of second-growth redcedars are scattered about the towns on city-owned and privately-owned properties, adorning the towns in year-round green and reminding residents of the towns’ early homes in the forest.

Western redcedars on N. 30th Street in Mount Vernon are showing signs of dieback. Photo © Sonja Nelson

Dieback has occurred among several redcedars at the southern edge of Bakerview Park, most likely due to the compact turf beneath them. Photo © Sonja Nelson
Evidence of Western Redcedar Dieback
To estimate the presence of dieback in western redcedars in Burlington, Mount Vernon, and Anacortes this author visited the cities’ parks and used them as samples for the extent of dieback in the two towns.

In Burlington, many of the trees were cut for the development of playgrounds. However, a notable stand of redcedars grows in Maiben Park, also home to the Burlington Community & Senior Center. This grove is a splendid example of second-growth redcedars. Burlington Parks Supervisor Jim Rabenstein observed that dieback is not currently a problem in the park’s redcedars. However, in 2019, several Burlington residents reported concern about dieback in town. In response, the parks department hired certified arborists from Urban Forestry Services/Bartlett to assess the redcedars in Maiben Park. Approximately 100 native forest trees were assessed-about 94 were redcedars. The report noted the “exceptional nature of this grove,” with redcedars measuring up to 90 inches in diameter at 4.5 feet and in good condition. However, the report stated that drought mitigation planning will be essential in preserving this valuable community resource as long as possible. The report suggested that mulch be added under the trees to mitigate increasing drought stress and heavy foot and bicycle traffic under the trees.

In Mount Vernon, no significant dieback was evident in most of the city’s parks. Dieback, however, has occurred among several redcedars at the southern edge of Bakerview Park, most likely due to the compacted turf beneath them. Hillcrest Park, with its numerous redcedars in a natural setting, has yet to show any significant dieback. These second-growth trees are estimated to be at least as old as the park itself where, in March of 2024, the city held a 100^th birthday in celebration of the park’s founding.

Five years ago, a dieback of the western redcedars occurred at Little Mountain Park, a 522-acre park in southeast Mount Vernon. In response, Sean Corcoran, the Operations Supervisor in the Mount Vernon Parks & Enrichment Services, said that the city requested help from Washington State University Extension, Forestry Division, to assess redcedar dieback in a northeast section of the park. Forest experts determined that root rot (Armillaria) brought on by drought had caused the dieback. Crews removed most of the damaged trees.

Community Scientists and Western Redcedar Dieback Map
Washington State University, WSU, has invested considerable energy and resources in observing Western Redcedar dieback in Washington state via their WSU Extension Forestry division. Working from the hypothesis that redcedar dieback is a consequence of the region’s recent drought, WSU has launched the “Forest Health Watch” to keep track of dieback occurrences. To participate as a “citizen scientist,” access their website at https://foresthealth.org/redcedar and report the dieback. Your information will help confront the looming disappearance of these giants in our midst. A detailed map of “citizen scientist” reports is also available. The website also provides multiple links to research on identification, biology, ecology, distribution, ethnobotany, and relevant pests and diseases.

The best action today’s gardeners and homeowners can take to prevent redcedar dieback is to keep the soil around their trees weed-free and mulched and to discourage heavy foot traffic. Learn more about how to help your trees beat the summer heat.

REFERENCES AND RESOURCES:

Corcoran, S. Operations Supervisor, Mount Vernon Parks & Enrichment Services. Personal communication 6-11-23.

Forest Health Watch. https://foresthealth.org/redcedar

Gilles, N. New study sounds alarm, provides hope for western redcedar. Oregon Capital Chronicle. March 24, 2023. https://oregoncapitalchronicle.com/2023/03/24/new-study-sounds-alarm-provides-hope-for-western-red-cedars/

WSU Extension, 2018. Forester Notes-Western Redcedar, Washington State University, North Puget Sound Extension Forestry Newsletter, Volume 11, Number 2, July 2018

Puget Trough Ecoregion, 2023. Retrieved from: http://www.landscope.org/washington/natural_geography/ecoregions/puget_trough

Rabenstein, J. Supervisor, Burlington Parks Personal communication 6-11-23.

Reed, W. High and Dry for a NW Icon. Washington State Magazine, Fall 2023. Retrieved from: https://magazine.wsu.edu/2023/07/31/high-and-dry-for-a-nw-icon/

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Sonja Nelson is a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener, Class of 2009.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to:  Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Mark your calendar for these upcoming master gardener events:

Skagit County Fair
Thursday ~ Sunday, August 8-11, 2024
Skagit County Fairgrounds
Building D
(map)
Visit our booth, see our displays, and talk with master gardeners about how to make your garden beautiful and productive.
Know & Grow Lecture Series
Season Extenders
Presented by Hallie Kintner
Tuesday, August 20, 2024 ~ 1 p.m.
Free Admission
NWREC Sakuma Auditorium
16650 State Route 536, Mount Vernon

A Second Act for Your Square 1-Gallon Pots at the Discovery Garden!

Bring your leftover square 1-gallon pots to the Discovery Garden (16650 State Route 536, Mount Vernon). The bin for recycling the square 1-gal pots is located in the parking lot, just north (to the right) of the main entrance.
We only need square 1-gallon pots like the ones pictured below (bottom right). The recycling bin will be available now through fall. Simply put your pots into the bin, and we take care of the rest!

Discover the Display Gardens Open House

Join us for this year’s Open House at the Discovery Garden,
the Salal Native Plant Garden, and the NW Fruit Garden
Saturday, June 29, 2024
10:00 a.m. ~ 2:00 p.m.
Free Admission & Parking

Visit 8 acres of gardens at one location in Skagit Valley

By Kay Torrance and Janine Wentworth
Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners

Explore all three gardens and talk to the volunteers who maintain the gardens. Use your ‘Discovery Passport’ and map to lead you on a self-guided tour of educational displays and activities including:

• Container Gardening
• Growing Media for Container Gardening
• Drip Irrigation
• Plant Clinic
• Plant Sale

Also booths by:

• Skagit County Noxious Weeds
• Skagit County Natural Resources
• Skagit Conservation District

The Skagit Valley is home to three display gardens operated by volunteers as a learning resource for the public: the WSU Extension Master Gardener Discovery Garden, the Salal Native Plant Garden, and the NW Fruit Garden. The gardens are co-located on the grounds of Washington State University (WSU) Northwestern Washington Research and Extension Center (NWREC) in Mount Vernon, WA (directions).

Ask a Master Gardener
Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners will be on-site to provide research-based solutions for your gardening challenges. Visit our Plant Clinic in the Pavilion for solutions to your plant problems or bring in a plant sample for identification. There will be a perennial plant sale. Bring your dull gardening tool to have it sharpened for free.

This year, master gardeners have crafted a special display on container gardening. Learn how to incorporate containers in your landscape or on your patio or balcony. Find out what you can grow and how to prepare the containers for success. There will also be information on planting media and using drip irrigation.

© Nancy Crowell Photography

© Kay Torrance
The Discovery Garden
Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Discovery Garden features 30 themed garden rooms on 1.5 acres with ADA-accessible paths and educational displays. Designed to support Skagit home gardeners by promoting research-based gardening practices, master gardeners have created 30 garden rooms within the garden, featuring hundreds of plants chosen to flourish in Skagit Valley. Master gardeners will be on hand to show you their favorite plants.

The Discovery Garden began in 1994 when the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners had a vision for a garden that would demonstrate best practices for gardening in the Skagit area. After two years of planning, the garden’s first plantings of trees and installation of fences was completed in the fall of 1996, transforming a rural agricultural field into a public display garden. Check out the garden’s webpage and browse the 30 garden rooms to find inspiration for your garden.

Salal Native Plant Garden
The Salal Native Plant Garden is a half-acre oasis of native plants tucked behind the Discovery Garden. You can enter by walking through the Discovery Garden and following the paths to the south. Cool off in the shade and explore how you can incorporate low-maintenance natives into your home landscape. See how red osier dogwood, salal, cascara, vine maples, and others could look in your yard. Docents will be available for tours and to answer questions.

The Salal Native Plant Garden was created twenty-five years ago as a collaborative effort between volunteers of the Salal Chapter of the Washington Native Plant Society and the Washington State University Agriculture Extension Agency at Mount Vernon (WSU). 

NW Fruit Garden
The NW Fruit Garden (formerly WWFRF) is six-acres planted with fruit trees, berry bushes, and other fruit-bearing plants suited for our climate, along with espaliers and informative signage. Tour the Antique Apple Collection in the orchard’s inner oval or tour the entire orchard. Ask about pruning and thinning of fruit. Find out what fruit varieties are best for your needs. The garden includes many unusual plants, such as medlar, sea buckthorn, kiwi, Aronia, and haskaps.

The NW Fruit Garden is located on the west side of the Discovery Garden. The garden was initiated in 1991 to provide a resource for the public to view successful fruit varieties and cultural methods for our Pacific maritime climate. Whether you are choosing two or three fruit tree varieties for a small urban backyard or have a more extensive orchard for family or even farmers-market production, NW Fruit has information on variety selection and fruit culture for the Pacific Northwest.

Master gardeners are focusing on container gardening at this year’s Open House. Check out the options and growing media recipes. © Ginny Bode

Plant Clinic experts will be on hand to answer questions and diagnose your gardening issues. © Ginny Bode

If you can’t make the Open House, all three gardens are open and free to the public seven days a week from dawn to dusk. Visit the gardens throughout the year to view the seasonal changes. Signage in each garden identifies plants and makes for interesting and educational self-guided tours.

RESOURCES:

• Discover the Display Gardens website
• Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener website
• Salal Native Plant Garden website
• NW Fruit (Western Washington Fruit Research Foundation website

ABOUT THE AUTHORS :

Kay Torrance and Janine Wentworth are Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners and part of the Planning Committee for the annual Open House.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Mark your calendar for these upcoming master gardener events:

Skagit County Fair
Thursday ~ Sunday, August 8-11, 2024
Skagit County Fairgrounds
Building D
(map)
Visit our booth, see our displays, and talk with master gardeners about how to make your garden beautiful and productive.
Know & Grow Lecture Series
Season Extenders
Presented by Hallie Kintner
Tuesday, August 20, 2024 ~ 1 p.m.
Free Admission
NWREC Sakuma Auditorium
16650 State Route 536, Mount Vernon

A Second Act for Your Square 1-Gallon Pots at the Discovery Garden!

Bring your leftover square 1-gallon pots to the Discovery Garden (16650 State Route 536, Mount Vernon). The bin for recycling the square 1-gal pots is located in the parking lot, just north (to the right) of the main entrance.
We only need square 1-gallon pots like the ones pictured below (bottom right). The recycling bin will be available now through fall. Simply put your pots into the bin, and we take care of the rest!

Hypertufa Troughs Serve as Lowland Homes for Native Alpine Plants

Grow these tiny gems seen on an alpine hike

By: Sonja Nelson, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Nestled low to the ground among the peaks of the North Cascade Mountains are tiny alpine plants that delight hikers as they stroll the high country of Skagit and Whatcom Counties. If these hikers are also gardeners, it is tempting to dig a few of these gems to take home and plant in their home garden. Digging and removing plants is, of course, prohibited on public lands, including national parks, forests, and recreational areas. Moreover, the plants most likely would die when snatched out of their high-altitude environment and planted in the soils found in the lowlands of our ecoregion.

However, alpine gardening enthusiasts have found a solution to recreate the beauty they see in the alpine regions of the North Cascades. Using containers created to grow plants away from their native environment and plants purchased from nurseries specializing in alpine plants, gardeners can successfully grow these tiny gems seen on an alpine hike.

The containers, called “hypertufa troughs,” are constructed to provide the specific requirements alpine plants and succulents need to thrive. They also blend nicely into a garden or can be placed on a deck or patio.

Hypertufa trough planted with mountain heathers native to the North Cascades. The trough is placed on a deck in Bayview in Skagit County. Photo © Sonja Nelson

Snow covering the mountain heathers trough, pictured in Photo 1 (to the left), acts as insulation just as it does for these plants in their native home in the North Cascades. Photo © Sonja Nelson

Hypertufa troughs originated from the naturally occurring tufa rock, a type of limestone formed when carbonate minerals precipitate out of water and build up around organic matter, eventually decomposing, leaving a porous rock. English farmers of the 1800s chiseled feeding troughs for their animals out of this rock. Years later, creative gardeners adopted these old containers, covered in moss and worn by decades of exposure to the elements, as decorative planters. A few of these sought-after antique troughs are still found in Europe but are often too heavy and expensive to transport across the Atlantic. (1)

Since tufa rock was not readily found and available in the US, gardeners in the 1930s-1940s began to make tufa-like troughs using a mix of ingredients with Portland cement. They called them “hypertufa.” (2)

Growing small alpine plants in hypertufa troughs has many advantages. The trough materials serve as insulation against extreme hot and cold temperatures that can occur in our ecoregion. The troughs also drain well, so standing water is never a problem, and the roots of alpine plants grow into the porous hypertufa and tend to thrive.

In addition, the Portland cement in the hypertufa mix slowly releases some calcium and magnesium that plants need. And, because the trough is relatively lightweight, they can be moved from place to place in the garden for the best exposure through the seasons. (2)

Ecoregions
Growing alpine plants in hypertufa troughs gives gardeners the pleasure of seeing them close to home in their gardens and protects them from the possible ravages of warm summers in their native locations.

Skagit Valley is located in the Puget Trough ecoregion, with mild, wet winters, and warm, dry summers. Here, precipitation averages 40 inches per year, with a mean January temperature of 39° F and a mean July temperature of 65°F. This climate differs from the climate of the North Cascades ecoregion, where many of our Washington native alpines for our hypertufa troughs grow in the wild. High elevations in the alpine regions are often covered with snow for many months. (3) The North Cascades Highway (State Route 20) traverses this ecoregion’s subalpine and alpine sections.

The Plants
The choice of North Cascade alpine plants for troughs is considerable. To get started, as an example among alpine plants, choose from the mountain heathers, the saxifrages, and the gentians.

Mountain Heathers
The common name “heather” can refer to many different highland species throughout the world. North Cascade heathers are called “mountain heathers” and include the genera Cassiope and Phyllodoce. Common names include white mountain heather, Alaskan mountain heather, pink mountain heather, and yellow mountain heather. (6)
Saxifrages
Members of the genus Saxifraga are widespread in the North Cascades, many of which grow in the subalpine and alpine regions. Examples seen by the author are Tolmie’s saxifrage (Saxifraga tolmiei) at Chain Lakes, Alaska saxifrage (Saxifraga ferruginea) at Twin Lakes, and western saxifrage (Saxifraga occidentale) on Chowder Ridge (Pojar and Mackinnon1994).

Saxifrage at Bagley Lakes in the North Cascades. © Sonja Nelson

Broad-petalled gentian (Gentiana platypetala) at Cutthroat Pass in the North Cascades. © Sonja Nelson

Gentians
Members of the genus Gentiana are also widespread in the North Cascades. Four gentian species are native to the North Cascades: king gentian (Gentiana septum), broad-petalled gentian (Gentiana platypetala), swamp gentian (Gentiana douglasiana), and alpine bog swertia (Swertia perennis). (6)

Although hypertufa troughs are highly suitable for growing alpines at low elevations, many small native plants and succulents also find the troughs an amenable environment for growth and a refuge from fluctuating temperatures.

Growing Mix
The soil mix used in the troughs cannot be the same as the soil in your garden. Alpines especially need good drainage, which means water seeps through the medium quickly and does not pool around the plant crowns.

A basic trough medium recipe is 2/3 to 3/4 by volume potting mix with either peat or coconut coir and 1/3 to 1/4 by volume coarse perlite. Add fertilizer if the soil mix does not include it. (2)

The extensive Trough Courtyard at the UBC Botanical Garden in Vancouver, BC features an extensive collection of alpine rock plants. © Ginny Bode

This tiny Brassicaceae is tucked between rocks in a trough garden at the UBC Botanical Garden. © Ginny Bode
Making Hypertufa
Recipe mixes for hypertufa can be found on the Internet. The recipe below is from Rosemary Read, Editor of The Social Gardener for the Whatcom Horticultural Society.
Lightweight Frost-proof Troughs “Tufa”
by Rosemary Read, Editor, The Social Gardener

Materials Needed (parts by bulk):

• 1 part Portland cement
• 1 ½ parts fine peat (screened)
• 1 ½ parts horticultural vermiculite and/or perlite
• 2 cardboard boxes (which, when fitted one inside the other, leave a gap of approx. 2 in. between the sides.)
• 2-3 wood dowels (approx. 2 in. long)
• Chicken wire (or metal strips) for reinforcement

Peat Moss and Sustainability

Increasingly, master gardeners are looking towards sustainable materials and encouraging gardeners to use a peat moss substitute whenever possible. Coconut coir is a sustainable product, and can be used instead of peat moss at a ratio 1.5:1 of the coconut coir and cement to water and perlite. However, it does not decompose as quickly as peat moss, which leaves pits and crevices and resembles true tufa rock. The full recipe and directions for using a peat substitute can be found here > 

Download the full report debunking the myth of the sustainability of peat bogs by Linda Chalker-Scott, PhD., WSU Extension Urban Horticulturist and Associate Professor.
Download here>
Steps to Making a Hypertufa Pot
Mix the dry ingredients and add water to make a thick, creamy consistency that can be poured. Mix in an old wheelbarrow, bucket, or container that can be moved and washed out when the project is complete.

1) Set up the outer mold cardboard box where you can move around it freely and where it may be left to harden. It is best to cover surfaces with plastic.

2) Pour mixture into the floor of the outer mold (2″ or more).

3) Press the wooden dowels into the mixture. In addition to making drainage holes, the dowels will support the inner box.

4) Place the inner mold on top of the dowel plugs.

5) Place in chicken wire (along sides and corners).

6) Pour in the mixture until it reaches the top.

7) Leave 24 hours. Remove the outer mold (peel off).

8) Rough sides to make it look “old” (chisel).

9) Leave the inner mold longer to harden.

10) Leave trough a week or more to harden before knocking out the plugs.

11) Leave the trough for 2 weeks to “cure” by soaking it in water, which is changed every 2-3 days.

_______ – _______

Safety Warning: Concrete contains chemicals that can cause skin irritation and lung damage. Read the warning labels on the material purchased. When working with concrete, always wear gloves, a facemask, safety glasses, and old clothing. Set up your work area outside, away from breezes, children, and pets.

_______ – _______

REFERENCES AND RESOURCES:

1. Carpenter, J. How to Make a Hypertufa Garden Trough. Retrieved from: This Old House.com

2. Chips, L. (2018). Hypertufa Containers. Portland, OR, Timber Press

3. Ecoregions in Washington, Landscape America, (http://www.landscope.org/washington/natural_geography/ecoregions/).Read, R., Personal Communication, (May, 2024). Lightweight Frost-proof Troughs “Tufa” The Social Gardener, Whatcom Horticultural Society, Bellingham, Washington.

4. Reed, W. High and Dry for a NW Icon. (2023, Fall). Washington State Magazine
Retrieved from: https://magazine.wsu.edu/2023/07/31/high-and-dry-for-a-nw-icon/

5. Pojar, J., MacKinnon, A. (1994). Plants of the Pacific Northwest Coast: Washington, Oregon, British Columbia and Alaska. Tukwilla, WA, Lone Pine Publishing.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Sonja Nelson is a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener, Class of 2009.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to:  Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Know & Grow
Gardening for Fragrance
Presented by Diana Wisen
Free
Tuesday, June 18 ~  1 p.m.
NWREC Sakuma Auditorium
16650 State Route 536, Mount Vernon

Visit the annual Open House at the Display Gardens:

Saturday, June 29
10 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Free Admission & Parking
Discovery Garden
16650 State Route 536, Mount Vernon
Learn More >

A Second Act for Your Square 1-Gallon Pots at the Discovery Garden!

Bring your leftover square 1-gallon pots to the Discovery Garden (16650 State Route 536, Mount Vernon). The bin for recycling the square 1-gal pots is located in the parking lot, just north (to the right) of the main entrance.
We only need square 1-gallon pots like the ones pictured below (bottom right). The recycling bin will be available now through fall. Simply put your pots into the bin, and we take care of the rest!

Planning a Memorial Garden

Creating a memorial garden is an inspirational way to pay tribute to a life and provide a place to reflect and remember

By: Kathy Wolfe, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Dealing with the loss of a loved one can be very challenging, an experience which most of us will face sometime in our lives. Creating a memorial garden dedicated to that person or pet can be an inspirational way to pay tribute to their life and provide a quiet, private space to celebrate them and remember what made them so very special.

There are no rules here. No space is too small or too large to provide a spot that reflects that individual’s interests, personality, accomplishments, or sacrifices. It can be a spot you can see from a window in your home, on a balcony of your apartment, in a quiet corner of your yard, or on a well-traveled path in a public area. Perhaps find a place where the departed frequented or enjoyed the view. Many cities and parks have opportunities to add a labeled bench or tree with a plaque in a public place. Ask your local authorities for suggestions.

The very act of envisioning, planning, and creating such a spot can keep you focused on things beautiful and symbolic that would capture the essence of your lost loved one. Once the garden or memorial is complete, you will have a space to quietly remember the good times and warm feelings you had with that person or pet.

Memorial benches on Tommy Thompson Trail near Anacortes provide a place to rest and reflect while taking in the view. © Photographer: Kit Lennard

Some components of a garden to consider are the amount of sunlight the area receives and the accessibility of the place. Doing this will help determine what plants will thrive there and allow you to choose trees, shrubs, and flowers that can give four-season interest. If your loved one had a favorite season, highlight that in your design. Remember to factor in the size of any large plants at maturity because they will continue to grow and fill your space. Trees will provide height and longevity to your design and shade for a bench or other seating area. Shrubs will add a lovely backdrop or border, while flowers can brighten up the space throughout the seasons and might reflect plants that were favorites or symbolic of the person you are memorializing.

You may want to research plant meanings. For example, yellow tulips represent friendship, roses symbolize love, poppies are for remembrance and peace, oak trees reflect strength, and cacti represent protection and endurance.

How much upkeep will you be able to do in this special garden? Adding a low-maintenance ground cover, such as creeping thyme, might work better than grass that will need mowing. Adding a sculpture, fountain, stepping stones, pathways, or solar lights to brighten the spot at night might be appropriate. A place to sit, whether a bench or seats, is important. You can also add a small table. Consider commissioning engraved stones or a plaque with meaningful wording or a poem of your choice.

Was your loved one a cat lover, an outdoor enthusiast, a big sports fan, a master quilter, a runner, an artist, or a builder of the community? All can be honored in their own way to shine brightness on the uniqueness of the departed. Use your imagination and creativity to design this special spot for your honoree.

A firepit with a good-sized seating area and multiple fire irons to stoke the flames and share fond memories might be just the right idea. © Photographer: Kathy Wolfe

This bench donated by the Floral Arts Garden Club honors the service of past members. © Photographer: Nancy Crowell Photography

Let’s consider the outdoors enthusiast. A firepit with a good-sized seating area and multiple fire irons to stoke the flames and share fond memories might be just the right idea. Add a dedication plaque to commemorate the individual for years to come. Someone will tell some good stories here!

If your loved one enjoyed nature, having a plant-filled garden with a water source to attract butterflies and birds could be lovely. A fountain, small pond, birdbath, and feeders or birdhouses would nourish creatures and create a peaceful setting for the viewer. Soft wind chimes for music lovers can add to the space’s ambiance. The soothing sounds can also mask outside noise and traffic.

You may have family members or friends who would like to participate in some element of the memorial. Decide who you would like to have involved and at what stage. Give them a specific role so they can feel the cathartic, calming pleasure of participation in the project. Examples of involvement might be that each member adds a tangible symbol of their connection to the departed or provides a stepping stone (manmade or individually created) to add to a pathway. Consider asking for help with the maintenance of the area on a revolving basis. A memory tree with notes, pictures, poems, and stories attached to the branches would be a good addition. Plan a dedication event that brings people together, sharing the honoree’s favorite foods, songs, and special memories.

An engraved rock, the Gloria Williams memorial in the Naturescape garden at the Discovery Garden blends in with the surrounding environment. © Photographer: Nancy Crowell Photography

As a fundraiser, bricks set in the Discovery Garden entry honor current members and those who have gone before us. © Photographer: Nancy Crowell Photography

Memorial gardens need not be for humans alone. Many incorporate the ideas above to create a remembering space for a dear pet who shared their lives and provided companionship and unwavering love. Other memorials are erected to honor individuals you may not have known personally but value their accomplishments or their sacrifice to our world.

A number of memorials in the Discovery Garden celebrate Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener members who gave so much of their time, ideas, and dedication to making the Discovery Garden the special place it is today. Look in the Naturescape area for Gloria Williams’ plaque, the Lloyd Eighme Heather Garden sign, Peggy Van Allen’s Moon Gate at the entrance to the Japanese Garden, the flagpole and named area dedicated to early master gardener and Navy Veteran Joe Dupre outside the Children’s Garden, and Doc’s Arbor designated in memory of Dr. Richard Hoag who was instrumental in the planning of the original garden. He and his wife also donated the first “seed” money to get the project started. Stroll around the Discovery Garden and spend some time remembering and thanking these individuals.

In 2008, a memorial was placed near the roses in the Discovery Garden as a tribute to LeRoy Anderson, a WWI veteran. It was donated by Kern Funeral Home in honor of Anderson’s effort to dedicate Highway 536 as Memorial Highway (in 1931) to honor the fifty young men from Skagit County who lost their lives in the First World War.

One of the most recent additions to the Discovery Garden, this moon gate in the Japanese Garden is a fitting memorial to Master Gardener Peggy Van Allen. © Photographer: Nancy Crowell Photography

The very act of envisioning, planning, and creating a memorial garden can help you focus on things beautiful and symbolic that capture the essence of your lost loved one. © Photographer: Kathy Wolfe

The Skagit County Master Gardener Program initiated a plan to replace elm trees planted in the early 1930s along Memorial Highway to honor these fallen soldiers of WWI. As time passed, the state highway department had to remove the elms to widen the highway and install utility lines. The first five replacement elms were planted in 2015 in the field west of the Discovery Garden. All 50 elms have now been replanted along Memorial Highway, and each tree has a granite plaque placed next to it naming one of the fifty men lost. Each year, generally on the Tuesday before Memorial Day, the Master Gardeners have a ceremony to commemorate these young men and their sacrifice.

One more very visible area in the Discovery Garden must be pointed out. In the entrance garden, a walkway surrounding the entry fountain is set with hundreds of engraved bricks honoring past and present members, individuals not necessarily members of the master gardeners, and even some pets. More than a memorial, these bricks also signify funds raised for the garden while also recognizing those connected with the master gardener program.

Even if you don’t have your own memorial garden, visit the Discovery Garden, have a seat on one of our many benches, and take some time to connect with the natural world and quietly reflect on those living and those who have passed who hold a dear place in your heart.

REFERENCES AND RESOURCES:
Vittek, S. How to Create a Memorial Garden. Modern Farmer.com, April 25, 2021. Retrieved from: Modern Farmer.com

Pendergast, R. 25 Creative Memorial Garden Ideas to Honor Your Loved One. My Farewelling.com. Retrieved from: Farewelling.com

Create a Memorial Garden at Home. Retrieved from: Earth Easy.com

Creating a Memorial Garden to Honor & Remember Loved Ones. Botanical Paperworks.com, January 18, 2016. Retrieved from: Botanical Paperworks.com/Blog

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
Kathy Wolfe has been a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener since 2002. She is co-coordinator of the vegetable garden at the Discovery Garden on SR 536 west of Mount Vernon.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a Master Gardener may be directed to:  Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Know & Grow
Gardening for Pollinators
Presented by Virgene Link-New
Free
Tuesday, May 21 ~  1 p.m.
NWREC Sakuma Auditorium
16650 State Route 536, Mount Vernon
Know & Grow
Gardening for Fragrance
Presented by Diana Wisen
Free
Tuesday, June 18 ~  1 p.m.
NWREC Sakuma Auditorium
16650 State Route 536, Mount Vernon

Visit a the annual Open House at the Display Gardens:

Saturday, June 29
10 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Free Admission & Parking
Discovery Garden
16650 State Route 536, Mount Vernon
Learn More >

A Second Act for Your Square 1-Gallon Pots at the Discovery Garden!

Bring your leftover square 1-gallon pots to the Discovery Garden (16650 State Route 536, Mount Vernon). The bin for recycling the square 1-gal pots is located in the parking lot, just north (to the right) of the main entrance.
We only need square 1-gallon pots like the ones pictured below (bottom right). The recycling bin will be available now through fall. Simply put your pots into the bin, and we take care of the rest!

Tap into Great Gardening Advice at a Master Gardener Plant Clinic

An amazing depth of knowledge and resources are available for home gardeners through Master Gardener Plant Clinics and Info Booths throughout Skagit County.

By: Ginny Bode and Anne Hays, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners

Problem with your roses? Does your fruit tree have a virus or a fungus? Is something attacking your pepper starts? Need help identifying plants in your new-to-you garden? Perhaps you have been out and about admiring your garden and noticed that all is not well.

Rather than depending on your neighbor or an online group’s collective input (which may or may not be accurate), visit a plant clinic and get answers to your questions from WSU Extension-trained experts. Master gardeners are an arm of the Skagit County WSU Extension office. They are rigorously trained in scientific gardening methods based on research conducted by leading agricultural institutions.

You’ll find answers to your questions and thousands of other issues faced by home gardeners in Skagit County at a Master Gardener Plant Clinic. Drop in at one of the locations throughout the county, all free of charge, spring through fall.

Master gardeners are taught how to search the many publications that document plant issues faced by Pacific Northwest gardeners and the recommended solutions. © Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners

The plant clinic in Burlington has a large resource library with books on insects, flowers, trees, shrubs, weeds and diseases. © Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners
What does science-based gardening information mean?
Master gardeners stand on the shoulders of agricultural research powerhouses such as Washington State University and Oregon State University. These land grant universities support the agricultural industry through research, which includes testing soils, finding solutions for diseases, and identifying the best cultivars for specific climates.

All master gardeners sign a commitment to only offer solutions proven in a university research setting. That means we won’t recommend a solution that isn’t proven reliable and safe. The extensive training includes integrated pest management or IPM. These solutions aim to “reduce human health risks, minimize adverse environmental impacts, and maximize economic returns and sustainability.” Clinic volunteers will help you find a solution that best meets your gardening goals. We’ll give you options if you don’t want to use pesticides. If you do want to use strong chemicals, master gardeners will outline the options and safety measures. Sometimes, the plant is in the wrong place, or a disease is in the soil, and the plant will never be successful. Then, clinic volunteers will recommend removing the plant and starting a new one with a disease-resistant cultivar rather than fighting an ongoing issue for years.

Plant disease diagnoses are a regular part of the plant clinic team’s day. Here a Camellia shows signs of both cottony camellia scale (Pulvinaria floccifera) and sooty mold. © Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners

When plant clinic volunteers aren’t busy working on client problems, they are refreshing their knowledge base by identifying insects, weeds, or diseases. © Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners

Who are the plant clinic experts?
You will be astounded at the scientific backgrounds found among the master gardeners who work at the plant clinics. Trained through the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Program, many core volunteers are retired from bioscience, forestry, and geology careers. Through years of diagnostic study and training, others have become experts in fruit tree diseases or insects. At a plant clinic, master gardeners work as a team to identify the problems and regularly cross-check diagnoses. Any master gardener will tell you that clinic experts are rarely stumped. If they are, they won’t stop until they find the answer.

Master Gardener Allison Hitchcock remembers one of the more unique plant identification challenges: “A client came in and wanted us to identify one of many large pits found piled on her property (likely dumped). I was having lunch at the time and just finishing my mango and easily identified the discarded pits with the one in my hand.”

During a recent plant clinic session, master gardeners worked through the identification process for an ant. © Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners

Proper identification is critical to recommending a solution with the least risk or harm to the environment and surrounding living beings. © Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners

Master Gardener Gail Messett remembers an Anacortes clinic visitor who was a fellow master gardener from North Carolina: “She was so glad to see us. She was visiting her son stationed at Whidbey, who had recently purchased a house in Anacortes. She wanted to help him reclaim his mature garden and needed help identifying existing plants and what plants work in the Pacific Northwest. She went back to his house and returned with pictures of plants for us to identify. And, of course, we could suggest native and other plants that would work well in our climate.”

Common Plant Clinic Questions:

• Plant disease diagnosis and treatment suggestions
• Insect identification (and control options, if necessary)
• Plant selection ideas
• General gardening advice, such as pruning techniques, weed control, and pesticide/herbicide application tips
• Gardening resources guidance: We can put you in touch with soil-test sources, native plant societies, mushroom identification sources, and much more

Two Locations in Skagit County
The clinics in Burlington and Anacortes have a library, print materials, access to online resources, and microscopes for plant identification and disease diagnosis. The Anacortes plant clinic is open during the Farmers Market and often attracts visiting tourists or those new to the area and interested in local plants.
Bring Your Suspicious-Looking Plant Materials
Plant clinic volunteers are eager to hear your questions and diagnose plant issues. The questions brought to the clinic also help identify trends throughout the county. Live samples are preferred, either in a baggie or jar, but the team can also work with suitable photos and, often, verbal descriptions. For plant ID, you should include a small branch and any flowers or fruits. Insect and disease samples should include both healthy and affected tissue/branches. Photos should consist of both close-up and landscape shots.

With the information you bring, the plant clinic team will ask questions, use microscopes, and research a comprehensive library of reference materials. Drawing on science-based training and years of experience diagnosing local garden issues, plant clinic master gardeners will track down the source of the problem and offer advice on the least invasive methods to set you on the right course for recovery.

The plant clinic in Burlington is home to Dr. Lloyd Eighme’s (1927 – 2021) extensive insect collection which can be viewed during clinic hours. https://www.skagitmg.org/home/publications/insects/ © Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners

Dr. Eighme’s insect collection is maintained and enhanced by Skagit County Master Gardeners and is used to educate the public and to build and share knowledge about insects in our region. © Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners
WSU Extension Master Gardener Plant Clinic Locations and Hours:
Burlington:
Wednesdays, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. April through October
WSU Skagit County Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A (near Skagit Airport), Burlington
Anacortes:
Saturdays, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.  (Open Saturday, May 18 through Saturday, October 12)
In the Depot Building at 7th St & R Ave., the Farmers Market, Anacortes
Farmers Market Info Booths:
Master gardeners are available at info booths at the Farmers Markets in Mount Vernon, Sedro-Woolley, and Concrete. Though these info-stations aren’t equipped with microscopes and an entire resource library, the master gardener volunteers at the Farmers Market info-stations can answer many of your gardening questions and connect you with the resources you need to be a successful home gardener. Check day and time with local directories.

• Mount Vernon Farmers Market
• Sedro-Woolley Farmers Market
• http://concretesaturdaymarket.com

Visit a Master Gardener Plant Clinic while attending one of these annual events:

Free Admission & Parking
May 11, 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Skagit County Fairgrounds
Learn More >
Plant Clinic at the Discovery Garden / Display Garden Open House
Saturday, June 29, 2024 – 10 a.m. – 2 p.m.
Discovery Garden, 16650 State Route 536 (Memorial Hwy), Mount Vernon, WA  98273
Learn More >
Plant Clinic at the Skagit County Fair
Bring your plant questions to the master gardener booth at Skagit County Fair, August 8 – 11, 2024

If you can’t visit during plant clinic hours, you can submit your question:

• Online: https://www.skagitmg.org/home/plant-clinic-submission/
• Email: skagitmgplantclinic@gmail.com
• Phone message: 360-395-2368

Alternatively, you can drop samples off at the WSU Skagit County Extension Office between 8:30 a.m.- 4:30 p.m. Monday through Friday. Information on preparing your samples for mailing or dropping off is online at https://extension.wsu.edu/skagit/mg/clinics/

Please provide:

• your garden location
• a detailed description of the problem, plant, or insect
• send digital photos if possible
• phone number and email if we have more questions

During the off-season, plant clinic staff meets every other week to answer emails and work on problems, so there may be a short delay in receiving your answer.

Remember, there are many reasons your plant may not be thriving. Perhaps it is a tender specimen homesick for warmer climates, or it might prefer a sunnier or shadier location in your yard. It might perk right up with some soil amendment and a different watering regimen. Stressed plants are more susceptible to insect attack and disease. A virus or a fungus might have settled in, or tiny insects might be emerging to feast. The solution could be as simple as picking off the damaged leaves, instituting good winter cleanup practices, or using a handheld sprinkler to wash insects off leaves. A visit to a Master Gardener Plant Clinic will help you solve your gardening challenges and decide what to plant next.

REFERENCES AND RESOURCES:
Sanchez, N. Key strategies for integrated pest management. Oregon State University.(Aug. 2019) Retrieved from: https://extension.oregonstate.edu/pests-weeds-diseases/ipm/key-strategies-integrated-pest-management

ABOUT THE AUTHORS :
Ginny Bode and Anne Hays are Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners, Class of 2022. They are co-editors of the Ask a Master Gardener blog and are always interested in hearing from readers about future topics of interest.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a Master Gardener may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

A Second Act for Your Square 1-Gallon Pots at the Discovery Garden!

Bring your leftover square 1-gallon pots to the Discovery Garden (16650 State Route 536, Mount Vernon). The bin for recycling the square 1-gal pots is located in the parking lot, just north (to the right) of the main entrance.
We only need square 1-gallon pots like the ones pictured below (bottom right). The recycling bin will be available now through fall. Simply put your pots into the bin, and we take care of the rest!

Mark Your Calendar:

Skagit Master Gardener Plant Fair-A Growing Tradition

Enjoy fun for the entire family on Saturday, May 11, 2024  8 a.m. – 2 p.m.

By Claire Cotnoir and Hank Davies
Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners and Co-Chairs of the 2024 Plant Fair
Thirty Years and Growing
On Saturday, May 11, 2024 (the Saturday before Mother’s Day, per tradition), the Skagit County Master Gardener Foundation will hold its annual Plant Fair, taking over the entire Skagit County Fairgrounds in Mount Vernon from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. offering something for every gardener.

The annual Plant Fair kicks off summer for Skagit area gardeners with thousands of quality garden plants for sale, all locally grown or selected by Skagit County Master Gardeners and chosen for success in our local environment. The event is free, parking is free, and master gardener plant recommendations and advice are free. Thousands of plants and other items are available at very reasonable prices.

The Skagit County Fairgrounds, at 501 Taylor Street, is just south of downtown Mount Vernon. Follow the signs to the south entrance on Taylor Street. Note: although the parking area is ample, it is not unusual for a line to form in the earlier hours of the event. Pack your patience, or consider coming a bit later.

The scene at the opening gate is always exciting and has grown over the years.

Sometimes, It’s Fun to Look Back
Gardeners are often surprised by old photos of their gardens and are always delighted by the growth and development they’ve seen since. Plants grow, gardens grow– and boy, do gardening events grow! As Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners are growing and grooming plants to prepare for their 30th annual Plant Fair, they share fond memories of their earlier, smaller events.

The Plant Fair originally started in a field beside what is now the Discovery Garden on Memorial Highway. It moved to the Skagit County Fairgrounds in Mount Vernon in 2015, first occupying one building, and now spreading across the entire fairground with many, many plants, vendors, music, learning sessions and more.

The space allotted for master gardener plant sales, demonstrations, the plant clinic, and The Emporium has also grown all in spacious, comfortable indoor spaces. You’ll find the space for vendor booths, which has also grown, with indoor and outdoor spaces.

Some things couldn’t really grow much bigger. The cashier banners, for instance– this event is a fundraiser, after all! And as always, the master gardeners will be showing off their (often) large, unique hats.

Master Gardener Plants Are the Best!
If you’re looking for tomato plants, head straight for Building D (affectionately dubbed The Tomato Barn), where more than 3,000 plants will be available. You’ll find 40+ varieties that have proven to be favorites of Skagit Valley tomato lovers, plus limited numbers of some “rare and unusual” types. New this year is the Skagit Dwarf Tomato Project. In response to many requests for tomato plants that could be grown in a pot on a deck or condo/apartment balcony, master gardeners have sourced a limited quantity of plants that perfectly fit this need. Look for a table of dwarf varieties at the back of the barn. Or ask one of the many master gardeners for assistance. Check out the tomato list here.>

Like last year, the vast Pavilion building will host a variety of annual and perennial plants, both ornamental and edible. This year’s fair will feature spectacular flowering plant varieties, including Lisianthus, an uncommon and beautiful rose-like plant that is notoriously difficult to start. Master gardeners have done the hard part for you. Lisianthus will be available in apricot, green, and white this year. Hanging baskets of Fuchsia and Coleus pots will be ready for Mother’s Day gifting. Many more varieties for sale include Cosmos, Dianthus, Eucalyptus, white lace flower (Orlaya grandiflora), Scabiosa, snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), stock (Matthiola incana), strawflower (Xerochrysum bracteatum), Zinnia, bellflower (Campanula spp.), bells of Ireland (Moluccella laevis), love-in-a-mist (Nigella damascene), and Silene ‘Blushing Lanterns.’

Chose from an abundance of annuals and perennials in the Pavilion.

You’ll find 40+ proven favorites of Skagit Valley tomato lovers, plus limited numbers of “rare and unusual” types.

In the vegetable section, master gardeners have grown popular varieties well-suited to the local climate. A few examples of the vegetable and herb starts you will find include beet, broccoli, cabbage, cucumber, Florence fennel, kale, leek, melon, onion, pepper, pumpkin, Swiss chard, shallot, spinach, summer squash, winter squash, tomatillo, basil, chive, cilantro, and dill.

As always, a wide variety of perennials will be available, including many native plant varieties and edibles like berries, rhubarb, grapes, figs, and perennial herbs. Of course, you’ll find perennially popular peonies! And for the first time, beautiful ‘Spider’s Web’ Fatsia. Also, ferns, trees, shrubs, iris, hardy geranium, Hosta, Epimedium, Trillium, Delphinium, wild ginger (Asarum canadense)-the list goes on. New this year, a pollinator exhibit will help you understand which plants attract which pollinators, their bloom times, and the importance of pollinators for our gardens and the planet.

Bring your plant questions to discuss with a master gardener at the plant clinic held in the Pavilion.

Get ready to go! Bring your boxes, carts, wagons, and, most importantly, your wish list.

Plants and So Much More
Just inside the Pavilion’s main entrance, master gardener plant clinic experts will help you with plant questions and problems. Across the aisle, shop at The Emporium for lightly used garden tools, books, art, and vases. Here, you’ll also find information on the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Program, upcoming events, and how to become a master gardener.

Get your pruners ready-the popular tool sharpening station is in the Pavilion this year and with increased staff. Bring your tools and let our tool experts prepare you for all your summer gardening exploits.

As you exit the Pavilion, head next door to the ‘Free Parking for Paid Plants’ area, where you can “park” your purchases while you continue shopping and enjoying a bite to eat and music in the picnic area. Our popular plant-parking service is returning this year with help from local 4-H members. In Building G, 4-H will also host their annual Small Animal Fair.

All along the grass fairway and in Building C, Plant Fair visitors will find a variety of vendors selling handcrafted wares such as jewelry, glass/metal art, wood sculptures, and gardening equipment. Plus, more plants! Visit educational booths to learn about noxious weeds, energy conservation, bats, and bees. Locally sourced food and drink vendors will be on hand to keep your energy up. Check out the vender list here.>

On the grass fairway vendors will be selling more plants, garden art, food and more.

A wide variety of perennials will be available, including many native plant varieties and edibles.
Demonstrations for Learning
Try attending one of the short gardening demos from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. presented in Building B. Demo topics include pruning, planting tomatoes, gardening with native plants, and more. You may already know Building B as the quilt building if you regularly attend the annual Skagit County Fair. This year, the demonstration area will surrounded by a colorful display of garden-themed quilts on loan from master gardeners and friends.
Get Ready to Go
Bring your boxes, carts, wagons, and, most importantly, your wish list! To help you plan, tomato variety descriptions, plant lists, a vendor list, and demonstration schedules will be available by the end of April on the Skagit County Master Gardener Foundation website at https://www.skagitmg.org/plant-fair.

Happy customers at the plant fair!

Pick up your tomato favorites from the 3000+ plants selected for our climate and grown by local master gardeners.
Supporting Skagit County Gardeners
Proceeds generated from the Plant Fair enable the Skagit County Master Gardener Foundation, a non-profit organization working in partnership with Washington State University Extension, to support home gardeners by promoting science-based gardening practices and education throughout the year. To learn more about events and programs, visit https://www.skagitmg.org. And join our mailing list to stay informed all year: https://www.skagitmg.org/mailing-list/.

Do you love the Plant Fair? You can help make it great next year by becoming a Skagit County Extension Master Gardener! Ask any master gardener at the fair what they love about the program. To learn about the application process, inquire at the Plant Fair Emporium in the Pavilion building or visit http://extension.wsu.edu/skagit/mg/apply/

ABOUT THE AUTHORS :
Claire Cotnoir and Hank Davies are the Co-Chairs of the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Plant Fair and co-coordinators of the Japanese Garden, Common Areas, and Structures in the Discovery Garden located on SR 536, west of Mount Vernon.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a Master Gardener may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Free Admission & Parking
May 11, 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Skagit County Fairgrounds
Learn More >

A Second Act for Your Square 1-Gallon Pots at the Discovery Garden!

Bring your leftover square 1-gallon pots to the Discovery Garden (16650 State Route 536, Mount Vernon). The bin for recycling the square 1-gal pots is located in the parking lot, just north (to the right) of the main entrance.
We only need square 1-gallon pots like the ones pictured below (bottom right). The recycling bin will be available now through fall. Simply put your pots into the bin, and we take care of the rest!

What’s in Your Bag of Potting Soil?

Not All Potting Soils Are Created Equal

By: Bruce Lindsay, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

As spring advances, gardening stores offer a multitude of soil mix choices. Selection can seem daunting, so we asked fellow master gardener and soils expert Bruce Lindsay to take us on a deep dive into what potting soils are made of and how to amend commercially bagged potting soils to ensure the best success in our container and raised bed plantings.
                                                             — Ask a Master Gardener Editors
What exactly is in a bag of commercially produced potting soil?
The first step is learning the basics of soil. All soil primarily consists of sand, silt, and clay mineral particles. Sand is visible to the naked eye, ranging from 0.05 to 2mm in diameter, and is gritty to the touch. Silt is not visible to the naked eye and looks and feels like flour when it is dry. When it is wet, it feels like damp flour dough. Silt ranges from 0.002 to 0.05mm in diameter. Clay is the size of bacteria, less than 0.002mm, and has colloidal properties as the result of its net negative charge due to its crystal structure. In a natural setting, soils have pores made by plant roots and insects, which are essential for drainage and allowing air to enter the soil for roots to breathe. The size of the pores is also important for water movement and the soil’s ability to retain water.

In contrast to well-balanced mineral soil, purchased potting soil typically has very few of these properties and has several problems. But take heart, armed with scientific knowledge, gardeners can remedy many of these deficiencies.

The vast majority of bagged “potting soil” consists of ground wood and bark produced from recycled forestry products (RFP). Commercially bagged soils are available in multiple mixtures containing RFP, peat moss, and other additives. © Photo: Adobe Stock

For seed starting and plant repotting, master gardeners use a moist, good quality potting soil mixed with perlite. © Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners

The vast majority of bagged “potting soil” (technically called a potting “medium” even though the label calls it “soil”) consists of ground wood and bark produced from recycled forestry products (RFP). Various commercially bagged soils are available, from coarse bark to multiple mixtures of RFP, peat moss, and other additives. In contrast, mineral soil products combine mineral particles of various sizes with some added compost. The potential hazard with some commercially bagged soils is the possible presence of weeds such as horsetail (Equisetum) and the potential presence of herbicides coming from landscaping sprayed with herbicide or hay fed to animals that has been sprayed and persists through a composted state and cause damage when used as potting soil.

Dealing with Nitrogen Deficiencies 
Recycled forest products are commercially sold in large bark chunks as mulch and finer-grained material as potting soil. These products come with inherent problems that gardeners can solve with amendments. The first issue that must be addressed is the carbon-nitrogen ratio (C/N). The ground-up wood materials in these bagged soil products are often almost pure cellulose, and bacteria (microorganisms) love to eat it. When bacteria eat stuff, they make many more bacteria and require more nitrogen as they reproduce, which results in nitrogen deficiency, leading to poor plant growth.

Older leaves turning yellow while the young leaves are green is often a sign of nitrogen deficiency. Severe nitrogen deficiency results in a severe lack of growth and stunted plants. One must take care when adding nitrogen; too much will promote rapid growth and excessive foliage. It can be a tricky balance, but fertilizer with some phosphorous and potassium is best. Some fertilizers also contain micronutrients, which can be beneficial. Use a significantly diluted solution (1 TBSP per gal.) of soluble fertilizer and frequently monitor the plants to see how they are doing.

Perlite is a volcanic glass, which, when subjected to heat and pressure, it changes, puffs up like popcorn, and forms many tiny pores that can hold water.

It is surprising how much wood is included in a bag of potting soil. © Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners

Since the recycled forest products used in commercially sold products are very porous, much of the fertilizer will drain through the pot in one application. To solve this problem, use well-composted materials containing organic matter or humus for effective nutrient retention. Well-composted materials should not include a lot of materials like straw and sawdust. Bacteria love sugars and cellulose, as in the “greens” of composting terminology, but bacteria have a hard time breaking down the “browns,” which contain lignin. If there were only sugars and cellulose in composting, bacteria would consume everything, and nothing would be left. The compost “browns” in soils contain materials high in lignin, resulting in “humus” as the ultimate end product of composting. One benefit of humus is that it is very good at holding water. Another significant advantage of adding well-composted materials to a soil mixture is that it will also add beneficial bacteria and fungi that are essential for many processes, just as they are in healthy mineral soils. Another benefit is that humus has a net negative charge that can hold onto cations such as potassium, calcium, and magnesium, giving the soil cation exchange capacity essential to plant growth.

The Importance of Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC)
Balanced mineral soils contain clay particles with a negative charge that hold onto the cations. Bagged potting soils containing a heavy ratio of recycled forest products do not have any clay, so the cations get leached out. To amend this problem, add well-composted materials to the RFPs. Hydrogen ions are cations that stick to negatively charged humus particles like little magnets. When fertilizers are applied, the calcium, magnesium, and potassium displace the hydrogen cations and become stuck to the humus particles. Plant roots come along, exude acids, and displace the nutritional cations, which are absorbed by the root and go up into the plant.
Wikipedia defines CEC as:
Cation-exchange capacity (CEC) is a measure of how many cations can be retained on soil particle surfaces.[1] Negative charges on the surfaces of soil particles bind positively-charged atoms or molecules (cations), but allow these to exchange with other positively charged particles in the surrounding soil water.[2] This is one of the ways that solid materials in soil alter the chemistry of the soil. CEC affects many aspects of soil chemistry, and is used as a measure of soil fertility, as it indicates the capacity of the soil to retain several nutrients (e.g. K⁺, NH₄⁺, Ca²⁺) in plant-available form. It also indicates the capacity to retain pollutant cations (e.g. Pb²⁺)

Many garden centers now carry a soil amendment called humic acid (or related substances, humin and fulvic acid). These are still the subject of much scientific debate. These compounds are created by alkaline extraction and are not naturally present in soil. While humic substances may have some positive effects on root growth, home gardeners are best advised to focus on the longer-term building of soil organic matter through carbon-rich amendments such as compost (or cover crops for garden beds), etc.

The Soil‘s Capacity to Hold Water
It is essential to slow the water down so plants have the opportunity to absorb it. Fortunately, most ornamental plants and vegetables prefer well-drained soil and do not like being in standing water for very long. In contrast, due to their fibrous material, most hanging baskets need watering once a day.

Add popped perlite and/or vermiculite to the mix to increase water retention. Perlite is a volcanic glass, which, when subjected to heat and pressure, it changes, puffs up like popcorn, and forms many tiny pores that can hold water. Perlite is the little white balls often added to soil mixes.

Vermiculate is a naturally occurring mineral that is also heated to create the golden-brown cube-like material we see added to soils. Vermiculite draws in and holds water like tiny sponges throughout the soil. You can also use coconut coir as a moisture-holding material, but soak it thoroughly before adding it to a mixture.

The water-holding capacity of pelletized wool is an exciting new material being tested. Pelletized wool is composed of the short wool fibers from the underside of sheep where the wool is also much dirtier and has plant fibers embedded; it is not suitable for processing into fabrics. This material has been a waste product of the wool industry. Recently, however, research has shown that this material is a viable amendment to soil that improves the water-holding capacity of soil and provides some slow-release nutrients. Already sold commercially this material is pelletized for ease of mixing into soil and is a productive, sustainable use for a by-product typically diverted to a landfill.

The Addition of Slow-Release Fertilizers
Bagged potting soil products often offer slow-release fertilizer additives. Beware of those using tiny plastic beads to store the nutrients. Our soils do not need synthetic materials left behind. Instead, some products use fertilizers with a mineral coating, such as limestone or gypsum, that slowly dissolves, releases the inner contents, and does not leave behind plastic residue.

Other slow-release products consist of blood, bone, and feather meal, which are by-products of meat processing. The drawback of these materials is the smell they generate. They are acceptable when used in a field but not welcome on a patio in a hanging basket. Likewise, fish emulsion is a fairly slow-release fertilizer but also has a considerable odor problem. While it is an organic fertilizer, one must consider the odor it causes and that it is a by-product of overfishing of oceans.

Adding ground limestone to the mix may be a good idea because the recycled wood product material tends to be on the acidic side. The limestone will add some alkalinity. Dolomitic limestone is even better, as it contains magnesium and will be a slow-release source of calcium and magnesium. Be sure to mix it well with the potting soil. About a cup per cubic yard should be enough. If you have access to a pH tester, use it! The soil pH indicates the availability of essential nutrients needed for plant growth. Ideally, potting soil should have a pH of about 6.5. It is important to test the pH of your soil mix before adding an amendment to raise or lower the pH.

Basic food waste from the farming, grocery, and restaurant industries is a readily available slow-release fertilizer. It is stunning that forty percent of our food production goes into landfills. An alternative is an organic liquid product made from fermented food and vegetable waste. It doesn’t stink and smells good, somewhat like soy sauce. With landfills overflowing, diverting food waste into soil improvement and garden production is one way to improve our environment.

Some people think replacing their potting soil with fresh material each year is necessary. This is only the case if there are disease issues. For instance, potting mix used for tomatoes or potatoes should not be used again for those plants because they are both susceptible to soil borne diseases. After a season of growing and watering, all the nutrients have leached out, but you can easily replace the nutrients by using the dilute fertilizer solution mentioned above. If the soluble fertilizers are too concentrated and the plants are not utilizing them, they may accumulate as salts. As time passes, some of the RFP in the potting soil will get eaten by bacteria, and the volume will decrease. In this case, add new potting soil with the amendments and mix it well with the original soil, spreading the nutrients around.

These recommendations apply to soil used in containers, raised beds and hanging baskets. It also applies to starting seeds in trays, but the seed starting soil material should be very fine to ensure good contact between the seed and the moist growth medium. When starting seeds, the soil should also drain fast enough so a fungal damp-off situation does not develop. Sphagnum peat moss tends to float to the top when watered and begins to clog pores, making it difficult to get moisture down to the bottom of the cell. Sprinkling fine vermiculite on the very top of each cell can help prevent these problems.

While forestry products recycled as commercial potting soil have drawbacks, amending these insufficiencies is an easy process. It is much better to use RFP products than to burn, bury, or dump them into the overflowing waste stream. Armed with awareness of the limitations of modern “potting soil” and knowing some remedies, gardeners can buy these products feeling confident with scientific knowledge.

REFERENCES AND RESOURCES:

Beck, L. (2023). ‘Waste Wool‘ is a Burden for Farmers. What if it Could be a Solution Instead? Retrieved from https://modernfarmer.com/2023/11/waste-wool-solution/

Brady N., Weil, R. (2017). The Nature and Properties of Soils. London, UK. Pearson Education (15^th ed.)

Lehman, J., Keber, M. (2015). The Contentious Nature of Soil Organic Matter. Nature volume 528, pp 60-68.  https://www.nature.com/articles/nature16069

ABOUT THE AUTHOR :

Bruce Lindsay became a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener in 2015. With an MS degree in geology and an MS degree in soil, he has mapped soils in Nevada, Arizona, California, and Washington.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a Master Gardener may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Upcoming Skagit Master Gardener Foundation Events:

Know & Grow:
Growing Roses in Skagit County – Free
Presented by Virgene Link-New
April 16, 1 p.m. 
NWREC Sakuma Auditorium
(16650 State Route 536, Mount Vernon)

Free Admission & Parking
May 11, 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Skagit County Fairgrounds
Learn More >

A Second Act for Your Square 1-Gallon Pots at the Discovery Garden!

Bring your leftover square 1-gallon pots to the Discovery Garden (16650 State Route 536, Mount Vernon). The bin for recycling the square 1-gal pots is located in the parking lot, just north (to the right) of the main entrance.
We only need square 1-gallon pots like the ones pictured below (bottom right). The recycling bin will be available now through fall. Simply put your pots into the bin, and we take care of the rest!

© Jerald E. Dewey, USDA Forest Service, Bugwood.org

The Tents are Coming-No Cause for Alarm

Caterpillars signify new, rejuvenating life

By: Virgene Link-New, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Perhaps it is our fatigue, our weariness with the darkness of winter. Or maybe it’s our eagerness to see the lush new green of spring bursting forth that fuels our distress and disappointment over the early spring appearance of caterpillar tents in our trees.

Do not despair. Those tents are a sign of another type of life bursting forth: one that will replenish soil over-watered by winter rains and feed many species who have suffered from hunger during the winter. Those tents indicate the under-appreciated western tent caterpillar, Malacosoma californicum. There is also a forest tent caterpillar that is less common, Malacosoma disstria. The first is our most common tent maker in this region. Others are called webworms or tussock moths.

Hawthorne with early tent caterpillar damage © Virgene Link-New

Hawthorne recovered from tent caterpillar infestation © Virgene Link-New

Their egg cases were deposited on deciduous trees and shrubs last year in the late summer and early fall. An egg case is many eggs “glued” together to form a “mass.” In the case of the tent caterpillar, it looks like a silvery Styrofoam mass when fresh. As the temperature warms, the eggs begin to hatch. The newly emerged hatching caterpillars spin a silken web to provide themselves with some protection from predators and weather. At first, they feed inside the tent, then they enlarge their tent as they grow. Since these caterpillars feed in early spring, the young leaves they consume are essentially recycled into compost that rains down to replenish the soil. The host tree has enough time to grow new leaves after the caterpillars have departed. Often, you see caterpillar tents in trees that later fail to develop. This is probably due to weather or other factors like disease or fungus.

Early tent caterpillar damage on apple tree. © Virgene Link-New

Apple tree two weeks after tent caterpillars dispersed. © Virgene Link-New

As they grow, the caterpillars eventually leave the tent and wander about, searching for more leaves to eat and a place to spin a cocoon. They undergo complete metamorphosis, the process of changing from an immature form to an adult form. At this time, they are more easily preyed upon by other insects, spiders, birds, small mammals, reptiles, and amphibians. Even their cocoons can be food for other species. Once they have emerged as moths to mate, they are more easily consumed by birds and bats. They are also vulnerable to viruses, diseases, and fungi.

Now, if you are in business and your livelihood depends upon fruit production or tree production, then action is necessary as energy is spent on producing more leaves. Also, the tents can interfere with setting of fruit. Orchardists act in the winter to remove the egg cases by peeling them off or pruning them out of the branches. The removed egg cases can be harmlessly dropped directly on the ground, which makes them available to predators like ground beetles and centipedes and allows any natural enemies whose parasitized eggs have been deposited in the egg case to exit!

If you have a small, just-planted tree, you should do the same action as the orchardist since unestablished trees are more vulnerable to stress. Or an ornamental tree by your front door would be aesthetically displeasing with tents, and you might want to take some action in that case. If you’ve missed the window for removing the egg cases, the web with caterpillars inside can be pulled off or pinched when cool or in the evening if pruning would distort your desired shape. These mechanical removal methods are more environmentally friendly than the use of pesticides and do not result in chemical run off during rainfall that eventually reaches Puget Sound. As a reminder, please do not use a torch to burn the tents, as fire is more damaging to the plant than defoliation.

Larger trees will put out new leaves and should be less vulnerable to attack the following year as they seem to develop some resistance. Weakened trees are partially killed only when severe infestations (total defoliation) are combined with drought or other stressors (like disease). In forests where trees are too overcrowded for nutrients and moisture, this is a form of natural thinning.

Parasitized tent caterpillars © Virgene Link-New

Proper mulching helps trees withstand drought because water can reach the entire root system. © Virgene Link-New

These past several years, the Pacific NW has been impacted by drought. Although tent caterpillars do not impact conifers (evergreens), their obvious dead tops in our landscape indicate that our trees suffer from a lack of water.

To protect the trees in your landscape, ensure they receive at least one inch of water per week out to the drip line. This is one reason the WSU Extension Master Gardener program recommends not having grass or plantings directly under your tree. You can use a moisture meter to read the depth to which water (rainfall or supplied) is reaching.

Our native trees have evolved with our native insects and thus have a symbiotic relationship that benefits the entire food web. Particularly, the tent caterpillar seeks out red alder in the native forest. Other host plants are those in the rose, birch, and willow families, to name a few.

Later in the year, we hardly notice the trees that hosted tent caterpillars, as we’ve forgotten which trees were defoliated in the abundance of new leaves. Please be tolerant of some damage because this species plays an important role in the ecosystem.

REFERENCES AND RESOURCES:

Eighme, L. (2009) Insects of Skagit County, Skagit County Master Gardener Foundation, pp17-18 & p124. https://www.skagitmg.org/wp-content/uploads/Public Pages/Library/Insects_of_Skagit_County_Eighme_2022.pdf

Colman, S., Antonelli, A., Murray T. “Tent Caterpillars” Washington State University Extension, December 5, 2022. https://hortsense.cahnrs.wsu.edu/fact-sheet/4377/

Tallamy, D. (2019) Bringing Nature Home, Updated and Expanded: How You Can Sustain Wildlife with Native Plants. Timber Press, Portland, Oregon

Western Tent Caterpillar, U.S. Forest Service, 2011.
https://www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5303047.pdf
Drought Information and Resources. Washington State Department of Agriculture
https://agr.wa.gov/departments/land-and-water/natural-resources/water-quantity/drought-infoThe Ultimate Guide to Mulching Around Trees. The Eco Tree Company, Madison, WI. April 21, 2021.
https://ecotreecompany.com/how-to-put-mulch-around-a-tree/
Bruner, J. (1993) Tent Caterpillar, WSU Fruit Tree, Washington State University
https://treefruit.wsu.edu/crop-protection/opm/tent-caterpillar/
Tent Caterpillar IMP Strategy Fact Sheet
https://www.seattle.gov/documents/Departments/SPU/SWAC/TentCaterpillarIPMFactSheet.pdf

Koszarek, L. (2023) Moths: The Forgotten Pollinators. Penn State Extension Master Gardener, College of Agricultural Sciences, Penn State University, University Park, PA Retrieved at: Moths-The Forgotten Pollinators

Upcoming Skagit Master Gardener Foundation Events:

Master Gardeners at SICBA Home & Garden Show
March 22 – 24 at the Skagit County Fairgrounds
Visit our booth, see our displays, and talk with master gardeners about how to make your garden more beautiful and productive. Learn about free events and programs for home gardeners in Skagit County.
Food Innovation – Food Waste Prevention – Free
April 6, 9 AM to 12PM at the Port of Skagit
Celebrate Food Waste Prevention Week. Check out the worm composting bin, attend food waste prevention classes. Talk to the Skagit Gleaners. The WSU Breadlab sale starts at 10 AM. Event held at the Extension Office on 11768 Westar Lane, Burlington.
Know & Grow: Growing Roses in Skagit County – Free
April 16, 1 PM at the NWREC Sakuma Auditorium (16650 State Route 536; Mount Vernon) Presented by Virgene Link-New
Skagit County Master Gardener Plant Fair – Free
May 11, 8 AM to 2 PM at the Skagit County Fairgrounds
Learn More >

ABOUT THE AUTHOR :

Virgene Link-New has been a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener since 2006. She is an avid insect collector and is garden manager of the Rose Garden in the Discovery Garden on SR 536 west of Mount Vernon.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a Master Gardener may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Get Your Body Ready to Tackle the Gardening Chores Ahead

“The secret to a healthy garden is a healthy gardener.”
– Canadian Physiotherapy Association

By: Kathy Wolfe, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Let the gardening begin! As March arrives, our gardening instincts kick into gear and we feel the urge to get started. We look forward to preparing our gardening beds, applying compost to the soil, plunging our first pea seeds into the ground, getting a head start on slug control, planting asparagus crowns (thankful that you dug those trenches last fall), and starting seeds in a greenhouse or under grow lights. Another activity to add to your to-do list is to get your body ready to tackle the gardening chores for the year ahead.

If you routinely work out at the gym, are a yoga devotee, or were lucky enough to spend your winter in a warm climate where you remained active for months, good for you! Many of us, however, have been hibernating along with our plants and should consider how we will prepare our bodies for the shoveling, lifting, hoeing, and raking activities soon upon us. It takes time to build strength, stamina, and aerobic power to prevent injury.

When moving something, keep your back straight and avoid arching it. Use your leg and buttock muscles instead of your arms. © Photographer: Yan Krukau | Pexels.com

Early season muscle strengthening helps the body endure the rigors of lifting and moving which are an inevitable part of a gardener’s routine. © Photographer: Kay Torrance

Why bother, you ask? If your core strength is low, your balance will be affected, and falls could result. Big and small muscles must be strong and pliable to avoid tears, cramps, and sprains. No one wants that.

Before our gardening marathon, let’s begin by practicing easy, at-home exercises. By starting today, your body will be more prepared for the heavier gardening chores still to come. Be sure to check with your medical professional before starting any new physical regimen. The tips presented here are in no way intended as a substitute for medical consultation.

Get Out and Walk
Boost your heart health and stamina with a brisk walk to get the blood circulating into your large muscle groups. Twenty to thirty minutes, done three times per week, is advised for cardiovascular health.
Chair Squats
Stand in front of a chair, feet shoulder-width apart, arms in front of you. Bend your knees, slowly squat, and gently sit down, then stand up using only your legs. Repeat several times. This exercise will benefit your quadriceps, glutes, and hamstrings, helping your functional strength.

Proper lifting techniques protect the back.

Exercises using a chair for balance are a great way to tune-up the body core muscles for functional strength.

Wall pushups help strengthen your chest, shoulders, triceps, abs, and wrists.
Wall Pushups 
Stand facing a wall with your hands shoulder-width apart. With your arms straight, place your palms on the wall. Keep your back straight, bend your elbows into a pushup position, and then push yourself away from the wall while keeping your palms in contact with the surface. This exercise strengthens your chest, shoulders, triceps, abs, and wrists.
Balance
Try standing on one leg and using fingertip touch on a countertop or chair. Repeat with the opposite leg. You can do this while performing everyday tasks like washing dishes or brushing your teeth. Try walking heel-to-toe. Practice leaning down and standing up, holding onto a chair if necessary. You will be doing a lot of this in the garden.

Now that your body is becoming more toned, balanced, and flexible, it is important to carry it gently into each gardening day. Start with some basic stretches. Remember, for any stretches, it is important to warm up with a few minutes of physical activity like walking, stretch at least two or three times alternating side to side, keep good form and posture (standing tall with your shoulders back and relaxed, hips even and core engaged to support your back), and keep breathing throughout each stretch. You might feel a pulling sensation or slight discomfort, but you should not feel pain with any stretch. And never bounce while stretching, but hold the movement steady. Print out these basic stretches and post them as a reminder and an easy reference.

Begin with some basic roll-downs for back flexibility and balance practice.

Further, prepare your back and spine with several thoracic rotations on each side, bending and twisting the spine to increase flexibility.

Warm up your pectorals (chest muscles) using a doorframe or corner to create resistance.

Don’t forget your wrists. Do a few wrist flexor and extensor exercises to get you started.

Do gentle quadriceps, gluteal, hip flexors, and calf stretches to prepare your legs for action.

Now that you are warmed up start with a gentle activity such as raking to help get the blood flowing through your large muscle groups.

Different tasks require specific attention and care. For example, the proper weeding technique is to dig around all sides of the weed to loosen it up before attempting to yank it out. Use your tools to do the work for you whenever you can. And alternate your weeding stance between standing and squatting. If you kneel, use a kneeling pad or individually pad your knees to protect them from excessive pressure.

Good tips for lifting and moving heavy items include planning where you will move the object and removing obstacles before lifting anything. Place the item close to your torso and bend your knees. Take a deep breath to prepare yourself and initiate the lift on the exhale. Use your leg and buttock muscles instead of your arms. Keep your back straight and avoid arching it. Limit the rotation of your spine because this will put undue stress on your lower vertebrae. Use your feet if turning is necessary. Refrain from jerking a heavy load, or you might be visiting a physical therapist the next morning.

Alternate gardening tasks and positions throughout the day and keep well hydrated.

After a day of gardening, take a few minutes to cool down by doing some of the warmup stretches shown. Take a short walk to keep your large muscle groups moving freely. A walking inspection of the rest of your yard may be in order. This practice will help prevent those nasty back and leg aches later in the day.

Doing some strengthening work before the gardening season, starting each garden day with some stretches and light work, and ending your session with a nice cool down will become habits if you repeat them regularly. Your body will thank you for it!

Taking time to rest and rehydrate is important throughout the gardening season. © Photographer: Nancy Crowell

REFERENCES AND RESOURCES:

Fuller, J. Stretches for Gardeners: 8 best stretches to keep you pruning for longer. Retrieved from: https://sportandspinalphysio.com.au/improve-your-gardening-8-best-stretches

Crawford, C. Inspire to Move – Gardening to Exercise Wellness Connections, University of Illinois System, April 2021. InspireToMoveApril2021.pdf (uillinois.edu)

Moeller, S. 6 Ways to Get Gardening Muscles in Shape and Prevent Injuries. AARP Home & Family, March 15, 2021. Retrieved from:  6 Ways to Get Gardening Muscles in Shape and Prevent Injuries – Rehab Management (rehabpub.com)

Zellers, C. Gardening for Physical Activity. Cooperative Extension of Cape May County, Rutgers, New Jersey, May 15, 2020. Retrieved from: Gardening for Physical Activity – Rutgers Cooperative Extension of Cape May County

30-minute Home Stretching Program. Choose PT Health Tips. Retrieved from: Health Tips | 30-Minute Home Stretching Program | Choose PT

How to Prepare for Gardening as a Senior. Health and Wellness, April 27, 2021. Bethesda Health Group, St. Louis, MO. Retrieved from: How to Prepare for Gardening as a Senior – Bethesda Health Group

ABOUT THE AUTHOR :

Kathy Wolfe has been a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener since 2002. She is co-manager of the vegetable garden at the Discovery Garden on SR 536 west of Mount Vernon.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a Master Gardener may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Gardening for All Ages and Abilities

Practical tips and ideas for adapting the garden through life’s transitions

By: Ginny Bode with Madelyn Case and Anita Reetz, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners

Gardeners know spending time in the garden feeds the soul. But sometimes, as life changes, we face the need to adapt how we garden so it is possible for ourselves or those we love to continue cultivating wellbeing through gardening.

For some, physical limitations present lifelong challenges; for others, aging begins to interfere with the bending, kneeling, and digging associated with gardening. There are many reasons to take heart and continue to enjoy gardening by implementing some of these adaptive methods.

In her book Gardening for a Lifetime, Sidney Eddison sums up the reason for adapting when she says, “We are all doing exactly the same thing-trying to hang on to something we love.” Her book is loaded with practical ideas for reducing and removing barriers that hinder and continue the joy of growing plants through life’s transitions.

Reducing the size and work of a garden is the first step, followed by making it easier, more accessible, and user-friendly. A vegetable garden the size you’ve always had, and probably shared with others, can be resized to reduce both the work of maintaining and the work of harvesting. Choose to grow your top favorites, looking for plants that require less maintenance.

Eddison writes about requiring a “standard of good behavior” for perennials. Her measure includes observing a perennial’s health, fortitude, and ability to withstand the extremes of summer and winter. They must be “well-behaved” and not invite pests. As plants age out, replace them with sizes and varieties that are easier to maintain. And, because climbing ladders is problematic as we age, choose low-profile trees and shrubs that are easier to reach for pruning and maintenance.

Pay Attention to Walkways
Every garden needs to be accessible and safe. Falls are problematic and can limit the ability to garden even more. Remove any places that may cause one to stumble. Eliminate a dip in a walking path and poor transitions between surfaces. Smooth pathways such as pavers, rather than woodchips or gravel, ensure ease for every gardener, particularly those who need the aid of a cane, walker, or wheelchair.

Herbs and lettuces can easily be grown in containers making it easy to gather when preparing a meal.

If the space doesn’t allow a large footprint, grow vertically with trellises in pots. Tomatoes are a beautiful addition, and can drive grown vertically with good airflow.
Be Amazed by What Can Be Grown in Containers
Life can throw us a curve, and home may change from acreage or a city lot with a garden to an apartment. Don’t let it rob the joy of gardening. When faced with gardening on a patio, containers can provide an excellent way to get a dirt fix. Most home gardeners are familiar with growing flowers in pots and containers. Many also successfully grow a wide range of vegetables, including tomatoes, beans, and kitchen herbs in pots. Depending on the space and container size, some folks even grow potatoes! The Vegetable Gardener’s Container Bible by Edward Smith provides advice for growing an abundant vegetable garden on your patio or balcony. Smith’s book is a stalwart in gardeners’ libraries because it is packed with information covering sun exposure, pot size, soil choices, and which varieties do best in containers.

Raised beds are also an excellent solution to making the garden user-friendly, making it possible to get your hands in the dirt without bending or kneeling. By keeping the beds narrow, 4′ or less, every inch of the garden is reachable from a standing or wheelchair position. It is incredible how much can be grown in a raised bed. With the popularity of raised beds, kits that only require simple assembly are available, or you can use the plans referenced later in this article.

Master gardener and adaptive gardening consultant Toni Gattone shares many adaptive gardening ideas in her book The Lifelong Gardener. Faced with chronic back pain, she searched for ways to adapt her northern California garden. She collected considerable wisdom about assessing limitations and finding joy in the changes. In the book, Toni profiles several gardeners faced with specific challenges and how they solved them with intentional choices and tools.

Gattone has a chapter about tools available for gardeners who face physical challenges. Scooters, carts, and ergonomically designed tools reduce some of the problems caused by aging joints. Long-handled hoes and weeders can make it much easier to garden from a bench.

Share a Gardening Space with a Friend or Join a Community Garden
Another way to garden without a home garden is to share a space. Many communities have garden spaces for people who need a place to garden. Whether in a community garden or sharing space in a friend’s garden, both offer the additional benefit of social interaction and shared knowledge.

The Enabling Garden features an abundance of garden possibilities for making it easier to garden for all ages and abilities © Nancy Crowell Photography
See the Possibilities in Action
As spring turns to summer, you will find inspiration for adaptive gardening techniques in the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener’s Discovery Garden on Memorial Highway (SR 536), west of Mount Vernon. Within the one-and-a-half-acre garden, local master gardeners have created an Enabling Garden, showcasing possibilities for people of all ages with limited physical abilities.

The Enabling Garden’s features include:

• Smooth ground surfaces
• Raised beds
• Resting places
• A display of adaptive gardening tools
• A selection of plants chosen for their sensory attributes or space

Many tools are available to help ease physical challenges. Long-handled hoes and weeders can make it much easier to garden from a bench.
© Ginny Bode

White stones delineate areas for the visually impaired in this raised bed in the Enabling Garden

Rather than wood chips or gravel, pavers allow visitors with walkers or wheelchairs to move about easily. The raised bed design (8-foot x 4-foot x 1-3-foot) permits the gardener to reach every inch of each bed, standing or from a wheelchair. You’ll find more information about raised beds along with plans at https://www.skagitmg.org/raised-beds-2023/.

One raised bed features a sitting ledge to offer a rest from work. Another bed is designed for the visually impaired and features curved streams of small white rocks separating plant clusters and plants with different textures to touch and feel. A third raised bed is divided into three parts with cutouts to push in a walker or wheelchair.

A fourth raised bed features a vertical lattice panel in the center, supporting various runner beans and clematis. The panel, located in the middle, permits tending from both sides. Square foot gardening techniques are displayed in another raised bed where 24 one-foot squares, laid out with twine, show the variety and abundance of small vegetables, herbs, and flowers that one raised bed produces.

The coordinators of the Enabling Garden choose plants for their ability to satisfy the senses of smell, touch, hearing, and taste. Kids visiting this garden say, “It’s fun to feel” the wooly lambs’ ear (Stachys byzantina), spiky lemon thyme (Thymus citriodorus), saxifrage, trailing English ivy (Hedera helix), and soft moss that flourish in the bed designed for the visually impaired. Fragrant plants throughout the garden include lilies, mint, sage, violets, and sweet peas. Herbs like lavender, rosemary, and lemon verbena can energize the gardener. You will find plants included for their sounds, too! Balloon flowers (Platycodon grandiflorus), bamboo, Chinese lantern plants (Physalis alkekengi), and honesty (Lunaria annua) provide interesting and pleasant sounds.

Within the Enabling Garden, you’ll also find a display picturing enabling tools, showing the tool and explaining how it helps gardeners use less energy and work more effectively.

These tips only touch on surface ideas to make it possible to experience the rewards of gardening no matter what physical limitations a gardener faces. The resources below dig deeper into the possibilities for gardening at any age or ability.

REFERENCES AND RESOURCES:

Eddison, S. 2010. Gardening for a Lifetime: How to Garden Wiser as You Grow Older. Timber Press Portland, OR.

Smith, E. 2011. The Vegetable Gardener’s Container Bible. Storey Publishing, North Adams, MA.

Bartholomew, M. 2018. All New Square Foot Gardening: Grow More in Less Space! Cool Springs Press, Franklin, TN.

Gattone, T. 2019. The Lifelong Gardener: Garden with Ease and Joy at Any Age. Timber Press, Portland, OR.

Ginny Bode

Anita Reetz

Madelyn Case

ABOUT THE AUTHORS :

Ginny Bode, Anita Reetz, and Madelyn Case are Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners. Anita and Madelyn are the coordinators of the Enabling Garden at the Discovery Garden on SR 536 west of Mount Vernon. https://www.skagitmg.org/home/discovery-garden/

Questions about home gardening or becoming a Master Gardener may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Red-twig dogwood (Cornus sericea) © Joan D. Stamm

Gardening for Wildlife

Thinking of adding new plants to your garden this spring? Choose from these recommendations to build a healthy ecosystem for your favorite wildlife species.

Updated: August 18, 2024

By: Joan D. Stamm, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

In a blog article last September, I recommended reading Nature’s Best Hope by Douglas Tallamy for the “why” of gardening for wildlife. This article will explore the “what” and the “where”-as in “what” plants and “where” to buy them.

For the “what,” I suggest Real Gardens Grow Natives by Eileen M. Stark as a guide to site prep, plant selection, and the benefits each plant offers the ecosystem. “Benefit” in this article, as in Stark’s book, is the critical word. It points to what the National Wildlife Federation (NWF) has coined as keystone plants.

What exactly is a keystone plant?
According to NWF, keystone plants are “native plants critical to the food web and necessary for many wildlife species to complete their life cycle. Without keystone plants in the landscape, butterflies, native bees, and birds will not thrive. 96% of our terrestrial birds rely on insects supported by keystone plants.”

Stark, a wildlife conservationist and landscape designer from Portland, Oregon, specializes in wildlife habitat gardens that include keystone plants. In the 317 pages of her beautifully photographed book, you will find 100 of her favorite Northwest native plant varieties and their many benefits for wildlife.

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) © Joan D. Stamm

Twinberry (Lonicera involucrata) © Joan D. Stamm

Snowberry (Symphoricarpos albus) © Joan D. Stamm

For example, the Garry oak or Oregon white oak (Quercus garryana) is one of the top keystone plants Stark promotes in her book. If we want butterflies in our garden, we need to have trees, shrubs, and perennials that host butterfly larvae. The Garry oak is one such tree; it is a host plant for many caterpillars, including the “gray hairstreak, California sister, and Propertius duskywing butterfly larvae.” In addition, the “flowers attract native bees,” and the “acorns sustain populations of mammals and birds such as woodpeckers, nuthatches and vireos.” “Studies show,” writes Start, “that oaks support more insect herbivores than any other plant genus.”

Although incredibly beneficial, not everyone has space for an 80-foot Garry oak. If not, consider another keystone tree: bitter cherry (Prunus emarginata). Birds such as “tanagers, waxwings, bluebirds, towhees, and flickers” will arrive to eat the fruit. A native cherry also hosts “swallowtail and Lorquin’s admiral butterfly larvae.”

If you love butterflies, another great keystone tree is Scouler’s willow (Salix scouleriana); it hosts “western tiger swallowtail, great comma, dreamy duskywing, and mourning cloak butterfly larvae.” In addition, native willow flowers “provide pollen and nectar for bees,” and “small and large mammals feed on buds, leaves, and seeds.”

Kinnikinnick (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi) © Joan D. Stamm

Frog on Sneezeweed © Joan D. Stamm

Bumblebee on blanket flower © Joan D. Stamm

Serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia) is also a keystone tree, providing “pollen and nectar for large numbers of bees, as well as hummingbird and spring azure butterflies.” Serviceberry fruit, says Stark, “is relished by waxwings, chickadees, woodpeckers, and tanagers,” and it is a host plant for “pale swallowtail, brown elfin, Lorquin’s admiral, and California hairstreak butterfly larvae.”

Along with these important native trees, many keystone perennials can fit into any open sunny space in your garden. A beneficial plant throughout many regions, goldenrod (Solidago canadensis), is a “nectar source for native bees and butterflies, such as the checkered skipper, clouded sulphur, gray hairstreak, monarch [east of the Cascades], and the endangered Oregon silverspot.”

Douglas aster (Symphyotrichum subspicatum) “provides nectar and pollen for bees and nectar for woodland skipper, pine white, painted lady, red admiral, mourning cloak, and the Oregon silverspot.” It is also a “host plant for field crescent and other butterfly larvae.”

Big-leaf lupine (Lupinus polyphyllus) not only “provide[s] pollen for native bumblebees,” it is a “host plant for silvery blue, painted lady, and orange sulfur butterfly larvae. Aphids attracted to the plant are preyed upon by syrphid fly larvae. Seeds are eaten by birds such as sparrows and finches.”

The Viola adunca, a native violet in our state, is a dynamic host plant for at least seven species of butterfly caterpillars and an enticing nectar plant for the endangered Mardon skipper butterfly.

Stark divides her native plant selections into three categories: plants for sun, partial sun, and mostly shade, guiding us in our creed “right plant, right place.” You’ll also find chapters on soil, pruning, watering, weeding, mulching, and much more. Her book is this gardener’s “go-to” choice whenever looking for the right native plant for a particular area and wanting to know the benefit to nature: what bees, butterflies, birds, or caterpillars the plant will attract.

As beneficial as all native plants are for our native wildlife, some natives on Stark’s list may not be suitable for an urban or suburban garden. For example, western red cedar, grand fir, Douglas fir, western hemlock, and Sitka spruce, are all enormously beneficial, but grow to a height of over 100 feet. The Douglas’ spirea, Stark warns, “may be too assertive for small, moist gardens.” Yet, the Spiraea betulifolia var. lucida, a small shrub with white flowers, might be perfect for a sunny border. Be sure to familiarize yourself with height, width, water requirements, and characteristics such as “vigorous,” “assertive,” or “rapid spreader” to determine if you have the “right plant for the right place.” A Nootka rose’s flowers and hips provide many benefits to wildlife but, over time, will grow into a thicket. However, if you have room for it to spread, it might make the perfect hedgerow, providing not only winter food for juncos and grosbeaks but also a habitat for nesting birds and the western checkerspot butterfly caterpillar.

For a more comprehensive book on creating gardens for wildlife, see Russell Link’s Landscaping for Wildlife in the Pacific Northwest. Link’s book not only includes extensive lists of native and non-native plants that benefit wildlife but also illustrates how to build habitats for birds, reptiles, mammals, and all the other creatures that make up a complete ecosystem. For example, he details snag locations and which draw native birds. He describes how to create a cavity in a live tree without killing the tree and thus create a habitat for a woodpecker. The book contains several kinds of fully illustrated brush or rock piles, including how to make them, where to place them, and who will benefit.

For example, Link says that “bushtits, chickadees, dark-eyed juncos, towhees,” and others “will use the inside of a brush pile,” whereas “hummingbirds, robins, and towhees will use the outside of a brush pile. Salamanders, snakes, toads, and turtles,” will use the base of the brush pile. He also covers how to create or construct proper birdbaths, ponds, nest boxes, and bat houses and features detailed drawings to illustrate how to build homes for Mason and bumblebees. Included are eight pages of colored photos depicting NW native mammals, birds, reptiles, amphibians, butterflies, moths, and other insects, describing our native birds and their preferred habitats.

Bee on Sneezeweed © Joan D. Stamm

Scotch bluebell (Campanula rotundifolia) © Joan D. Stamm

With these three books, Nature’s Best Hope, Real Gardens Grow Natives, and Landscaping for Wildlife in the Pacific Northwest, you will be inspired, informed, and guided to provide plants that offer habitat and food (nectar, pollen, insects) for our native wildlife. You will better understand why it’s important to cultivate natives and have a clearer idea of what to plant, thus joining the movement to restore our natural ecosystem.

The only question remaining is “where” to buy all these wonderful beneficial plants?
You can start with our very own Skagit County Master Gardener Foundation’s Annual Plant Fair, which always features a native plant section. The sale occurs the Saturday before Mother’s Day (May 11, 2024) at the Skagit County Fairgrounds in Mount Vernon.

The local Salal chapter of the Washington Native Plant Society (https://www.wnps.org/salal-programs/garden) offers a twice-yearly native plant sale online with pick up at their demonstration garden adjacent to the Discovery Garden. Sign up to get email notifications.

Some of our local nurseries are beginning to carry more native plants. Azusa Gardens in Mount Vernon on Hwy 20 (https://www.azusagardens.com/) keeps expanding its native plant section each season. They feature two- and five-gallon shrubs such as twinberry, ocean spray, snowberry, red-twig dogwood, mountain hemlock, and others. Twinberry (Lonicera involucrata), in particular, is an attractive and beneficial native shrub easily grown with a little shade. It produces yellow tubular flowers attractive to hummingbirds and the berries are eaten by “thrushes, flickers, grosbeaks, and waxwings”; it’s also a host plant for the “snowberry checkerspot butterfly larvae.” Azusa also carries native ferns, and groundcovers such as bunchberry and wild ginger. They also welcome requests for specific plants.

Christianson’s Nursery in Mount Vernon on Best Road  (https://www.christiansonsnursery.com/) has a native plant section and carries one-gallon great camass (Camassia leichtlinii) in spring. They also have vine maple, salal, western red cedar, fir, hemlock, and kinnikinnick. The latter is a perfect groundcover. Kinnikinnick is not only evergreen, but the flowers are popular with bees and hummingbirds; the berries are eaten by “songbirds and many ground-feeding birds,” says Stark. It is also a “host plant for brown elfin and hoary elfin butterfly larvae.”

Plantas Nativa in Bellingham (https://www.plantasnativa.com/) specializes exclusively in native plants. They pack a lot of choices-conifers, shrubs, perennials, ferns, grasses, water plants, groundcovers, and more-into their small corner lot.

A little farther away but worth the drive, a visit to the Pacific Rim Institute (PRI) https://pacificriminstitute.org/ near Coupeville on Whidbey Island will reward you with not only a native plant nursery but a hike through a preserved segment of Washington’s native prairie landscape that contains the endangered golden paintbrush (Castilleja levisecta). PRI’s Nursery specializes in 50 native prairie plants. Many, such as woolly sunflower, red paintbrush, campanula, yarrow, larkspur, and fescue, will thrive in a sunny spot in your garden. Red paintbrush, in particular, is a beautiful, easy-to-grow native when planted with another native-like yarrow, woolly sunflower, penstemon, or blue-eyed grass. Due to its symbiotic nature, paintbrush requires nutrients from a host plant’s roots to survive. It blooms throughout summer, and Anna’s hummingbird loves the red flowers.

PRI also specializes in some unique native bulbs-ookow (Dichelostemma congestum), blue lily (Triteleia grandiflora), and harvest brodiaea (Brodiaea coronaria), that I hope will begin to replace my non-native tulips and daffodils for spring cheer.

With the knowledge and expertise of Tallamy, Stark, and Link, and a little help from our many plant retailers, you will be inspired to garden with native keystone plants that provide food and habitat for our indigenous birds, bees, and butterflies. In our age of endangered plant and animal species, we can be a force for eco-restoration right in our own backyard.

REFERENCES AND RESOURCES:

Link, R. 1999. Landscaping for Wildlife in the Pacific Northwest. Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife.

Stark, E. 2014. Real Gardens Grow Natives. Skipstone, Seattle, WA

Tallamy, D. 2019. Nature’s Best Hope: A New Approach to Conservation That Starts in Your Yard. Timber Press, Portland, OR.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR :

Joan D. Stamm is a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener and the author of several books, including The Language of Flowers in the Time of COVID: Finding Solace in Zen, Nature and Ikebana.

https://joandstamm.com/

Questions about home gardening or becoming a Master Gardener may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Gardening for Pollinators

A journey of learning

By: Patty Puckett Tingler, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Pollen is a fine powdery substance, typically yellow, consisting of microscopic grains discharged from the male part of a flower. The term pollinator is not limited to wind, insects, animals, and butterflies. Some unexpected insects such as beetles and moths are also pollinators, performing the critical task of transporting pollen to the female parts of other plants, enabling fertilization and the production of seeds and fruit. Pollinators are vital to global crop production. According to an article published by the U.S. Forest Service, “Of the 1,400 crop plants grown around the world, i.e., those that produce all of our food and plant-based industrial products, almost 80% require pollination by animals.”

It is widely assumed that the honeybee is the predominant pollinator. However, there are many types of bees, solitary and social, and they all play a role in pollination. Typically, in a home garden, you’ll find solitary bees that are not part of a hive; however, all bees play a role in pollen distribution and pollination.

© Patty Puckett Tingler

The Banded Wooly Bear is the larval stage of the Island Tiger Moth. © Virgene Link-New

A honeybee on a kale blossom Caption © Virgene Link-New

Flowers, Fruits, and Veggies

Gardeners should consider choosing plants that will provide pollinators with a variety of feeding choices all season long. Choosing early and mid-spring blooming flowers or bulbs to attract pollinators is a wise strategy. Once the pollinators have been attracted to the garden, vegetables will be bountiful all summer long. Fruit trees in blossom are ready to be pollinated. Be sure to share the bounty with birds later in the season as they were likely part of the pollinator team.

Remember to be patient. Attracting pollinators is laying the groundwork for years to come, so efforts made now will affect the garden and pollinators in the future. Watch and study your space for attractiveness to pollinators as you would for sun and shade. Neighboring plants can repel certain pollinators and you may need to move or rethink what to plant in a particular area to attract the pollinators for garden needs. Gardening for pollinators is a journey of learning and understanding.

The Western Swallowtail has a lifespan of only 6 – 14 days. Caption © Virgene Link-New

Hover fly on dahlia © Virgene Link-New

Attracting Pollinators

If you personally like scented plants then you already know which plants pollinators enjoy. In addition to scent, think of using the open face of a flower as a landing place for the pollinator to rest while gathering and distributing pollen. Whether it’s a bee, a butterfly, or a bird, rest areas will encourage different pollinators to return. In the Pacific Northwest, especially western Washington, pollinators are lured by crocosmia, coneflowers, lavender, catmint, and sunflowers to name a few. One easy-to-grow pollinator-friendly annual is lacy phacelia, also known as blue tansy. It is a beautiful lavender color, grows easily from seed, and bees will flock to this plant. Distribute the seeds around your yard and enjoy its tall, beautiful splendor.

The number of scented plants in the Pacific Northwest is quite wide, from climbing vines like honeysuckle to lavender and lilac bushes. There are plenty of native species to choose from that are drought tolerant once established such as camas, lupine, salvia, and checker mallow also known as Malva. Daisies, asters, California poppy, catmint, and sage are also pollinator-friendly plants easily grown in the PNW.

What can we do to support pollinators?

How we can best support pollinators depends on the season. In fall, it’s best to put down your rake and leave the leaves on the ground. Mother Nature will do her best to push the leaves together under shrubs or against a structure. Some pollinators burrow under these leaf accumulations to overwinter. Wait until the spring weather is warmer (above 50°F) before cleaning up the garden as the pollinators will need the warmth as they emerge from their winter habitat.

Reduce the areas of grass on your property by adding shrubs, trees, and perennials that will provide visual interest and habitat for birds and insects. Use fewer toxins and chemicals, when possible. Pollinators need water for many purposes, including drinking, cooling, and reproduction so be sure to provide a source of shallow water near pollinator plants. Recycle pots or repurpose other containers (buckets, watering cans, birdbaths, etc.) on your patio or landscape to encourage more pollinators. Secondhand stores are full of items waiting for a reimagined purpose.

By providing backyard habitats or even a patio garden of scented, open flowers, bees and other pollinators will find your offerings. Support them by providing plants that help them do their job. Look online for native Pacific Northwest plants, shrubs, or seeds. Visit a local nursery to get plant recommendations or attend classes. Use your local library to learn more about creating or filling your garden with pollinator-friendly plants.

The more you learn about the world around you, the easier it is to live simply with our environment. Becoming aware of your environment and learning more about pollinators will open your eyes to the beauty and intricate connectivity of nature. We co-habit with and need insects, birds, butterflies, and other creatures to act as pollinators to plants to provide us with both beauty and nutrition. Our health, both physical and mental, would not exist without the efforts of the earth’s pollinators.

REFERENCES AND RESOURCES:

Why is Pollination Important ? U.S. Forest Service
Retrieved from https://www.fs.usda.gov/managing-land/wildflowers/pollinators/importance

James, D. Pollinators retrieved from https://hortsense.cahnrs.wsu.edu/pollinators/

Krischik, V. Pollinator Conservation Biocontrol: Beneficial Insects | IPM and Pollinator Conservation University of Minnesota retrieved from: https://ncipmhort.cfans.umn.edu/beneficial-insects

Zagory, E., Hetrick, K. (2016) Introducing 10 Bees and 10 Plants They Love. University of California, Davis
https://arboretum.ucdavis.edu/sites/g/files/dgvnsk1546/files/inline-files/10-bees-10-plants_0.pdf

ABOUT THE AUTHOR :

Patty Puckett Tingler is a certified Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener, Class of 2022.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a Master Gardener may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Learn from the experts at the
Country Living Expo
& Modern Homesteading

Saturday, January 27, 2024

Learn More and Register Here >>

These Gardening Topics and More:

• Fruit Tree Pruning & Grafting
• Microclimates in the Garden
• Low Maintenance Gardening
• Roses
• Bee Keeping
• Soil Sampling
• Veggie Gardening
• Growing in High Tunnels, Cold Frames, and Unheated Greenhouses
• Pest Control
• Hop Growing
• Flower Arranging
• Know Your Native Trees
• Introduction into Mason Bees

Help for the Vegetable Garden Novice

Tips every first-time vegetable gardener should consider

By Anne Hays and Cathy Markham, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners 

I am a vegetable garden rookie! There, now you know.

Some of us become gardeners later than others. I grew up moving from state to state just about every year. Our family’s unique military and government-dictated lifestyle left few opportunities for gardening growing up. As an adult, I found myself living in Alaska, spending 30-plus years tending fireweed, wild lowbush blueberries, and devils-club. Now, living in the abundantly beautiful Skagit Valley, I have the time and desire to learn how to successfully plant and grow a vegetable garden. As a novice, first-time veggie gardener, I turned to my wonderful friend and fellow Master Gardener, Cathy Markham, and asked her to mentor me through the process. The following is a journal of guidance and learning with the goal of a vibrant and bountiful vegetable garden this coming spring and summer.

Think Before You Leap

As both a gardener and a chef, Cathy has been growing a cook’s garden for many years. Both her Italian grandmother, on the central coast of California, and her mother, in the high mountain desert of Idaho, grew gardens. Cathy has never known a time when her family didn’t grow, harvest, and preserve.

Cathy advises working to get the most out of your garden space. When she teaches about gardening, she advises “Think before you leap.” Answer a couple of key questions such as “What do you want to take away from your decision to garden and what kind of commitment are you honestly willing to make regarding time, dedication, and hard work?” There are no wrong answers; it is just very helpful to define your expectations.

After many, many years of experience gained from multiple acres of gardens, and knowledge collected from gardeners who have gone before her, Cathy asks every novice vegetable gardener to consider:

Do you have a space that is prepared to plant? Is the soil in need of amending? Is there adequate water and is the sunlight appropriate for your garden space?

Is your space protected from deer, rabbits, or other animals that see your garden as a free salad bar?

Are you prepared to tend your garden frequently, checking for insects and disease, weeding, tending seedlings, and then harvesting for maximum yield?

Considering these questions will help you decide if “digging in” and starting a home vegetable garden is for you. In fairness, sometimes our lives or interests can’t support the commitment of growing a garden and it is better to support a local farm stand. Gardening is just not fun when you are constantly trying to keep your plants alive in poor soil and conditions, or when you are doing the added work of trying to keep the deer and rabbits out of your garden. If you are serious about getting a harvest for delicious eating and winter storage, the answers to these questions are important.

After listening to Cathy’s advice, considering her questions, and thinking through our commitment to becoming vegetable gardeners, my partner and I said “Yes! We are ready and committed to growing our own vegetable garden.”

This past fall, we set about building a garden space, installing six vinyl-clad trough-style raised beds which were ordered from an online source.

The start of the process of building a raised bed garden on a small, city lot. © Anne Hays/Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

The raised bed components delivered by the online retailer. © Anne Hays/Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Opting to use drip irrigation, we installed the necessary infrastructure and then filled the six beds with commercially distributed topsoil. Placed next to the house on the south side, three beds measure 3.5 feet by 3.5 feet. Two beds measure 2.5 feet by 8 feet and one measuring 2 feet by 6.5 feet, adjacent to the square beds with a 6-foot path and workspace in between. We plan to attach hog-wire to the house wall for trellising above the three, square beds.

The investment, not including the raised beds, came to $539.63. Once everything was in place, we invited Cathy to visit the newly minted, naked garden. She thought the raised garden beds looked great; having the potential for lots of sun, available irrigation, and plenty of space for vertical growing! Cathy suggested getting started right away by planting winter veggies such as leeks, kale, and garlic as a first foray into the veggie gardening realm.

Rookie Alert: The eight garlic cloves purchased were about six more than most any household needs. Cathy happily adopted the surplus garlic for her garden. Then she quietly pointed out that the leeks, which by then, looked more like bunches of scallions, needed to be separated from their clumps to grow with adequate space. Who knew?

The raised bed components assembled and ready for DIY drip system installation. © Anne Hays/Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

The finished garden beds ready for planting. © Anne Hays/Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener
The Next Step – Planning What to Grow
Here again, Cathy’s advice, based on years of experience and research-based learning, was invaluable-she helped us decide what to grow; when to grow; and whether to buy starts versus seeds. Her advice is to grow what you love to eat. Okay, then not so many cukes since my partner is not a fan. Cathy recommends a wonderful book: Grow Cook Eat by Willi Galloway as a starting point for garden planning.
Starting with Seeds Versus Buying Plant Starts
Locally grown plant starts are a reliable way to get up and running. But spending time with seed catalogs is enthusiastically encouraged! Some favorites are provided in the references below.

The next steps will include getting together during the cold and dark winter months for tea or warm cider to go through seed catalogs and map out the garden planting. Raised bed experts recommend growing tomatoes on a trellis, and weaving in other climbers, such as beans, on the same trellis to efficiently utilize the space. It is key to plant at the right time – don’t start too early!

Here are some of the guiding principles Cathy encourages new gardeners to lean on:

Grow what you love to eat.

• You have a lot of choices for what to plant in your vegetable gardens but the best choices are the ones you or your family are actually willing to add to your diet and eat. You are more likely to put the work into the garden and harvest for foods you love to eat.

Start small and be successful with easy-to-grow plants.

• A very small garden can be very productive and rewarding. It gives you a chance to experiment with plants, maybe one tomato plant or eggplant. Greens, bush beans, cherry tomatoes, carrots, and herbs are an easy way to start. Choose bush and dwarf varieties for small spaces so you won’t have to worry about staking. If you have vertical space, climbing vegetables are great; these include peas, beans, cucumbers, indeterminant tomatoes, and now several new varieties of squash have been developed which grow vertically in small spaces.

Grow nutrition-rich and versatile choices.

• Adding nutrient-dense vegetables to our diet is always a plus! Dark leaved greens like kale, spinach, and chard; rich dark root vegetables like beets and carrots; peas and beans, garlic, onions, leeks, and shallots; broccoli or broccolini; and tomatoes!

Grow what is expensive to buy or is not as flavorful when you buy it.

• This is especially true of herbs which are easy to grow for the most part and make a huge difference in food preparation. Tomatoes and English peas (shelling peas) are examples of vegetables that are so much better fresh from the garden. Potatoes and corn are plentiful and readily available, so you may choose to skip giving up the space it takes to grow them.

Decide what “mountains to die on.”

• Based on your time and patience, decide what you are willing to deal with in your garden. For example, you may choose not to grow many vegetables from the cabbage family because you are not willing to deal with the bugs and worms that they attract. You may choose instead to grow broccolini, a short, early-season vegetable, or maybe Kalettes (a cross between kale and Brussels sprouts) because they are fun. You can buy what you choose not to grow at a farmer’s market.
• We live in an area where an excellent choice of vegetable starts is available. If you have a new garden, this is a big boost to success because you don’t have to deal with the germination of seeds. Beans are the exception here, they do best when grown from seed. The plus for growing from seed is the huge variety of available seed sources. This may not be a priority for new gardeners.

Grow organic as much as possible.

• The better you take care of your garden the less you will need to use any chemicals on it. Keep the garden clean of weeds, and mulch to keep the weeds down and the soil moist. Keep the pathways clean also; weeds and grass are very difficult to manage when they grow big. It is easier to pick them small, not letting the weeds compete for nutrition. Thinning your growing plants appropriately will cause them to grow strong and able to survive the normal garden bugs. Use a foliar spray made of a mix of kelp concentrate and fish emulsion for fertilizing. Water the plants consistently so they do not become compromised and weak, which leads to disease.

Begin at the right time – don’t start too early.

• It is so tempting to get the seeds or plants in the garden early. The first sunny day seems warm enough – surely we are done with the cold weather! Garden success comes from resisting this temptation. It isn’t a competition with anyone else, or a race to see who can get the earliest peas. Take the time to prepare the gardens, clean out the flower beds, and pace yourself. This may not suit some, but except for garlic, which gets planted in late October, and leeks and shallots in March, planting can wait until April for the cool spring crops, and everything else until mid to late May. Wait patiently until late May and or even early June to plant tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, and tender herbs like basil. Until the soil is warm, so many plants just shiver and sit. But if you wait until the soil is warm, seeds will germinate quickly and plants are stronger. A compromised plant may not ever get back the vigor of one that has not been traumatized by the weather!

Commit to what you start, that is – take care of your garden. And have fun!
As winter turns to spring, we will meet, talk, plan, and put these guiding principles into action. We plan to continue with a follow-up blog post in spring to report back about our plans and decision process. We promise, you’re going to want to learn more about our garden pest-repelling strategies.

The end goal – Cathy Markham’s garden yields an abundance of fresh produce for eating and preserving. © Cathy Markham / Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

REFERENCES:

Galloway, W. (2012). Grow Cook Eat: A Food Lover’s Guide to Vegetable Gardening. Seattle, WA. Sasquatch Books.

Raymond, D. (1983) Joy of Gardening. North Adams, MA. Storey.

Damrosch, B. (2008) The Garden Primer: The Completely Revised Gardener’s Bible. New York, NY. Workman Publishing Company.

LeHoullier, C. (2014). Epic Tomatoes. North Adams, MA. Storey.

Robinson, Jo. (2014). Eating on the Wild Side. New York, NW. Hachette Group.

Miles, C. (2013). WSU Home Vegetable Gardening in Washington. Washington State University Extension Publication #EM057E. https://pubs.extension.wsu.edu/home-vegetable-gardening-in-washington-home-garden-series.

This is a non-inclusive list of seed purveyors to consider:

Renee’s Garden Seeds, www.reneesgarden.com
For some varieties of seeds, Renee’s offers combination packages of two or three types of seeds, dyed so you can differentiate. This is especially nice for variety without planting a huge garden. The tri-color beans and three variety zucchinis are particular favorites.

Italy-Franchi www.growitalian.com

Territorial Seed Company https://territorialseed.com/

Johnny’s Selected Seeds Company https://www.johnnyseeds.com/

Learn from the experts at the
Country Living Expo
& Modern Homesteading

Saturday, January 27, 2024

Learn More and Register Here >>

These Gardening Topics and More:

• Fruit Tree Pruning & Grafting
• Microclimates in the Garden
• Low Maintenance Gardening
• Roses
• Bee Keeping
• Soil Sampling
• Veggie Gardening
• Growing in High Tunnels, Cold Frames, and Unheated Greenhouses
• Pest Control
• Hop Growing
• Flower Arranging
• Know Your Native Trees
• Introduction into Mason Bees

ABOUT THE AUTHORS:

Anne Hays and Cathy Markham are certified Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners, Class of 2022. Cathy has a degree in food and nutrition from the University of Idaho and is a Registered Dietician. Her vegetable garden has been featured in the Seattle Times Sunday Magazine.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a Master Gardener, may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: https://extension.wsu.edu/skagit/mg/

Turn the Dark Days of Winter into a Spring Planting Advantage

Start an indoor grow stand and you’ll be enjoying homegrown salad before you know it

By Kay Torrance, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

The Pacific Northwest offers unique challenges for gardeners. In the fall the endless summer comes to an abrupt end, with daylight decreasing over three minutes a day from mid-August into early November. As the winter solstice arrives on December 21^st there are only 8.5 hours of daylight. We can’t change that, so let’s start a project. 

Want to grow herbs and vegetables in the middle of the winter? Want to get a jump on spring gardening by starting vegetables indoors to plant outside after the last frost? Do it with an indoor growing stand. It can be as simple as hanging a light from the ceiling and placing a few trays on a table. Prefabricated kits are available in all shapes and sizes, or build your own. Many Master Gardeners use their grow stands year-round. In the summer it is great for starting fall vegetables, and flowers, or to protect tender plants such as basil from outdoor insects and slugs.

Find a Suitable Location
Gardeners naturally want to place their grow stand near a window. However, with good artificial lighting, you can use a dark corner, unused room, or heated basement. Unused kitchen counters or shower stalls also work well.

Grow stands look tidy, but you are working with dirt and water. Locate them away from carpets and wood floors. Office chair mats work well to protect delicate floors. Hang a white shower curtain behind the stand to keep the wall clean and reflect light. If you are setting the stand on a table, use a vinyl tablecloth. For wood tables, make sure the trays are not touching the wood as the heat and humidity will damage the finish. Locate the stand near a power source for the lights and heating pads. Plants add moisture to the air, so make sure you have good ventilation to keep you and the plants healthy. 

1020 flat of 6-pack cells under a dome ready to start germination on a heat pad. Seeds must not dry out during germination. © Photo by Kay Torrance

1020 flat of one-month-old romaine lettuce, Bok choy, spinach, and parsley (back right). Ready for transplant into 3 1/2-inch pots except for the parsley. © Photo by Kay Torrance
Sizing Up Your Stand
Think about the size needed to match your growing goals. 3.5-inch square pots often work well as a final size. Once the plant outgrows the 3.5-inch pots, the plant is either harvested or ready to go outside. The most common greenhouse tray size is 10 by 20 inches, commonly called a 1020 tray. One tray holds 18 3.5-inch pots, or 12 6-plug trays (72 plugs total), or eight 5-inch pots. If you only have room for one tray, herbs are a great choice. If you have two trays, lettuce, spinach, fennel, and microgreens are good options. If you have four trays, you have room for a dedicated seed starting tray, while the other three trays are staggered to produce enough salad to feed two people.

Once you have an idea of the size, it is time to decide whether to purchase a kit or build your own. If you decide to purchase a kit, there are many options available; some fit on a small tabletop, others are large tents that are mini-indoor greenhouses. Save money by repurposing shelving and lights or by building your own out of pipe or wood.

6-pack cells of flat and curly parsley at eight weeks. Ready for transplant to 3.5″ pot. © Photo by Kay Torrance

1020 flat of two-month-old romaine lettuce and three-month-old parsley in 3.5″ pots. Ready to start harvesting. © Photo by Kay Torrance
Building a DIY Grow Stand
The easiest way to get started is to hang a grow light from the ceiling, throw a vinyl tablecloth over a table, and put up a section of shower curtain to protect your wall if needed. Add a heat pad and you are ready to go. Hanging lights from the ceiling gives the most flexibility for lighting with unlimited options for height above the plants. If you don’t want holes in your ceiling, a lighting support can be built using shelving, or a frame from PVC, metal conduit, iron pipe, or wood. Think about things you already have that can be repurposed. Sawhorses or a six-foot ladder can make a good light stand support.

PVC is easy to work with and has lots of joint options. If you search online, many design plan options are available. Some guidance recommends against using PVC cement on the joints so the racks can be easily disassembled for storage; however, this can result in a wobbly stand. One alternative to gluing is to drill a small hole in the joint and insert a screw.  This allows for disassembly but does not allow pieces to come loose while you are using the stand. (PVC does not accept most paints so don’t expect to hide the bright white pipe with paint.) Using threaded metal plumbing pipe creates a heavy/sturdy stand with a steampunk look, but the pieces are more expensive than PVC. Threaded metal pipe is available in many lengths so you don’t have to cut it. The threads make for easy assembly. Metal pipe can be painted, and you can disassemble it for storage.

For shelving, plywood is readily available and sold in small pieces, called project panels, at home improvement stores. Often, stores will make cuts for you. Use at least 5/8-inch-thick plywood because thinner pieces will sag over time. Countertop remnants are a sturdy and waterproof alternative. I have found that two-inch foam board insulation panels are easy to use. These panels are inexpensive, lightweight, and can be cut with a utility knife. They are also waterproof, and are available in two-foot by two-foot precut panels, which will hold two 1020 trays. Foam board can also be used on a tabletop to protect the surface from heat and moisture emitted from the heat pad and trays.

Selecting Lighting for Your Grow Stand
Grow stands need a good source of artificial lighting, ideally lights that produce a full spectrum of high-intensity light for rapid plant growth. Leafy greens and herbs need around five hours of direct sunlight each day. Most garden vegetables need up to 14 hours of light each day.

Fluorescent or LED tube lights are an inexpensive alternative to a plant or grow light. Florescent lights give off some heat, which is beneficial to plants, but the glass bulbs can be easily broken. LED grow lights produce the highest intensity light but are the most expensive. They are also more energy efficient and rated for long life. Incandescent lights are not a good choice because they use much more energy and generate a lot of heat which can dry out leaves.

Setting Up the Lighting
Fluorescent lights should be hung one to three inches above the plants. The tubes need to fully cover the plant trays. Choose a fixture with four to eight bulbs or mount multiple fixtures side by side to ensure coverage. Fluorescent bulbs sold for home lighting are not as intense as grow lights and will need to be turned on longer each day. Plan on 8-10 hours of light a day for herbs and leafy greens, and 12 to 14 hours for vegetable starts if you are using fluorescent lights.

LED grow lights are placed 10 to 30 inches above the plants. Follow the manufacturer’s directions. Box-shaped LED grow lights are easy to work with. The added height of the light above the plants increases the overall height of a grow stand; however, it is easier to water and tend plants without moving trays. Plan on six hours of light a day for herbs and leafy greens and eight to ten hours for vegetable starts. When selecting an LED grow light, be mindful of the color of the light. Blues and reds are great for plant growth, but if your stand is in the living room, you might not enjoy being bathed in a purple glow.

Experiment and adjust the height of the lighting and duration based on your specific setup. All lights generate some heat. Make sure the lights have adequate clearance per manufacturer’s directions and keep an eye on your plant growth so the plants don’t grow into the lights. When purchasing lights, compare all the features. Some fixtures have outlet plugs for connecting multiple lights. Some of the grow lights have built-in fans which keep the lights cool and provide some air circulation for the plants. The fans do generate noise.

Heating Pad Selection and Use
Make sure to size the pad to cover as much of the footprint of the plant tray(s) as possible. Place the plant tray on top of the pad. Do not put the pad inside the tray with the plants directly on top of it as the pads are not designed to be in direct contact with water. Often heat pads are sold rolled up in boxes. At room temperature, the pads are stiff. Before unrolling a pad, plug it in and let it warm up. Forcing them flat can break the heating elements inside.
Trays, Domes, and Pots
Using standard 1020 greenhouse trays makes pot sizing easy because many pots sold are designed to fit in the trays. Select the trays without holes in the bottom. Use a dome (plastic cover) for starting seeds.  If seeds dry out during germination, it will kill them. Use 6-pack cells to start the seeds and 3½-inch pots after the plants outgrow the cells. When starting vegetables with large seeds like squash or cucumbers, begin with 3½-inch pots. You may want several small trays if you are growing microgreens. It is important to sterilize trays and pots if you are reusing them.
Growing Media and Fertilizer
Always use sterilized growing media. This will help prevent dampening off as well as fungus gnats. Use a water-soluble fertilizer designed for vegetables per the manufacturer’s directions.

Important Safety Considerations:

• Hang lights with appropriate clearance following the manufacturer’s recommendations.
• Make sure lights are properly supported. If you are attaching eye bolts connected to the ceiling, make sure they are affixed to the ceiling beams and not just into drywall or other materials where the screws could pull out.
• Make sure to use UL rated lights, heat pads, and surge protectors.
• Make sure that any electrical components that require grounding (3-prong plug) are properly grounded.
• Protect wood surfaces from heat and moisture or you can ruin the finish or warp the wood.
• If using shelving, attach the shelving to the wall so that the stand isn’t accidentally knocked over.

Two types of timer controls. The light controller on the left has a single outlet. The model on the right has four switched outlets for lights and four additional untimed ones for heat pads and other uses. © Photo by Kay Torrance

UL rated LED grow light with fan and plug outlet. © Photo by Kay Torrance
Accessories to Make the Process Easier
Adding a timer to your lighting to ensure consistency is highly recommended. Even the most organized gardener will forget to turn on or off the lights sometimes, especially if the grow stand is located in a basement or out-of-the-way area. Make sure the timer accommodates the three-prong grounded plugs used by plant lights. Some timers are also surge protectors with multiple outlets controlled by the timer. The heating pad needs to be plugged into an outlet, not on a timer. A small oscillating fan provides good ventilation, reduces fungal problems, and the motion helps strengthen the plant stems as they grow. A set of pulleys allows quick and precise adjustments to the height of the lights.
Selecting What to Plant
As a rule of thumb, plant what you like to eat. However, avoid vegetables that take a long time to grow, keep well, and are inexpensive to purchase. Concentrate on herbs and greens that are best eaten fresh. For detailed information and a planting calendar, read the WSU Home Vegetable Gardening in Washington for help selecting vegetables, learning how to harden and transplant starts, and growing them until harvest.

If you are growing plant starts to transplant outdoors, start seeds around eight weeks before the last frost date. Per WSU AgWeatherNet, the last frost for Skagit Valley is generally in May, so March is a good time to plant indoors. Temperatures in many areas vary due to micro-climates, so experiment to see what works for you

Tabletop grow stand with lights suspended from the ceiling. A shower curtain liner and vinyl tablecloth protect the surroundings from water and dirt. © Photo by Kay Torrance

Plastic shelving used for stand. © Photo by Kay Torrance

Starting Seeds
Plant each 6-pack with the same or similar seeds. Some plants like parsley will stay in the 6-pack for four to six weeks whereas lettuce will need to be transplanted in two to three weeks. Twelve 6-packs will fit in one 1020 tray – that is 72 plants! It is easy to get carried away and outgrow your grow stand. Think of how many of each plant you want. You may only need two parsley plants but a dozen lettuce plants. Plants grow at different speeds. Check days to harvest on the seed packets. For each tray, I will usually plant three 6-pack (18 cells) that will grow into 18 four-inch pots. I use small trays to plant microgreens to fill the remaining space as they will be harvested before they need to be moved to larger pots.
Transplanting and Harvest
It will take 5-14 days for seed germination. Some seeds will germinate faster if you soak them in water first. Follow directions on the seed packet and research specific germination information from various seed companies. Growth rates will vary based on your temperature, light, and fertilizer. The young plants should be ready to transplant to 3 1/2-inch pots around three to five weeks from germination. If you are unsure if your starts are ready for a larger pot, carefully pull one plant out of the container and look at the roots. Parsley and spinach seem to take forever whereas lettuce, Bok choy, and tomatoes grow really fast. Look for well-formed roots starting to emerge from holes in the plugs or pots.

Grow light results © Photo by Kay Torrance

When harvesting, take only what you need for a meal and leave the rest on the plant, using the come-and-come-again method. Harvest the older/outer leaves leaving the young leaves for later. This provides enough foliage to keep the plant healthy and prolong your harvest time. When the plants become too big for the 3.5-inch pots, it is time to transplant them or harvest all the leaves and start over. It is great to stagger crops so you are always in fresh greens.

Questions or Comments
Have fun making the most of the dark days of winter with an indoor grow stand. If you have questions or concerns, add them in the comments section below and members of the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Plant Clinic team will be happy to answer, or visit a plant clinic in person.

REFERENCES:

VanDerZanden, A. (2008). Environmental factors affecting plant growth. Oregon State University Extension. Retrieved from https://extension.oregonstate.edu/gardening/techniques/environmental-factors-affecting-plant-growth

Wooten, H. (2020) Artificial Lighting for Growing Vegetables at Home. University of Florida/IFAS Extension Orange County. Retrieved from https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/orangeco/2020/04/09/artificial-lighting-for-growing-vegetables-at-home/

Miles, C. (2013). WSU Home Vegetable Gardening in Washington. Washington State University Extension Publication #EM057E. Retrieved from https://www.skagitmg.org/wp-content/uploads/Public-Pages/Food%20Gardening/Food%20Gardening%20Library/WSU%20Bulletin%20EM057E%20Home%20Vegetable%20Gardening.pdf

Planting Calendar from WSU Home Vegetable Gardening in Washington https://www.skagitmg.org/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Planting-Guide-Calendar-Final-2023-03-15.pdf

Grabowski, M. (Reviewed 2018), How to prevent seedling damping off. University of Minnesota Extension. Retrieved from https://extension.umn.edu/solve-problem/how-prevent-seedling-damping

Pennisi, B. (Reviewed 2022). Growing Indoor Plants with Success. University of Georgia Extension Retrieved from https://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=B1318&title=growing-indoor-plants-with-success

Peronto, M., Wertheim, F., Fournier, E.(Rev. 2021) Starting Seeds at Home. Bulletin #2751, University of Maine Extension. Retrieved from https://extension.umaine.edu/publications/2751e/

Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Grow Your Own Food Website
https://www.skagitmg.org/home/food/
Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Publication Library
https://www.skagitmg.org/home/library/

Learn from the experts at the
Country Living Expo
& Modern Homesteading

Saturday, January 27, 2024

Learn More and Register Here >>

These Gardening Topics and More:

• Fruit Tree Pruning & Grafting
• Microclimates in the Garden
• Low Maintenance Gardening
• Roses
• Bee Keeping
• Soil Sampling
• Veggie Gardening
• Growing in High Tunnels, Cold Frames, and Unheated Greenhouses
• Pest Control
• Hop Growing
• Flower Arranging
• Know Your Native Trees
• Introduction into Mason Bees

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Kay Torrance has been a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener since 2019. She is garden coordinator of the Naturescape garden and pond in the Discovery Garden on SR 536 west of Mount Vernon. https://www.skagitmg.org/home/discovery-garden/

Questions about home gardening or becoming a Master Gardener, may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: https://extension.wsu.edu/skagit/mg/

These raised beds in the Discovery Garden show the multiple advantages of raised bed gardening.© Photo by Nancy Crowell / Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Gardening with Raised Beds

Raised Beds Provide Many Advantages to Home Gardeners

Editor’s Note: 
As the daylight hours continue to wane, many gardeners turn their attention to planning for next season. Some of us even have a Christmas wish list which has been known to be filled with tools and even projects that will enhance our gardening endeavors. For this reason, the Ask a Master Gardener Blog editors are reprinting a favorite article, complete with plans, a materials list, and updated references which answer one of the most asked questions at plant clinics and market kiosks —“How do I build a raised bed garden?”

_  _  _ 

By Dave Buchan, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Want to grow better vegetables but concerned about poor soil quality in your garden plot? Are you frustrated with continually trying to amend your soil for better growing but getting nowhere? Do you have site conditions or drainage problems that prevent establishing a good garden? Your solution might be gardening with raised beds.

What is a Raised Garden Bed?
A raised bed is really nothing more than a device containing a vertical column of quality soil to create the best possible growing conditions for your garden. Raised beds can vary greatly in size, but typical garden beds are generally 12 to 24-inches in height and about 4-feet in width. Your ideal width may vary, but a 4-foot width is a dimension that most gardeners use because you can easily tend half the garden from one side, and then the other half from the other side. Length can vary depending on space and site conditions. Some gardeners choose raised beds up to 16-feet long.
Why Use Raised Garden Beds?

Raised beds offer many advantages for gardeners. Most importantly, raised beds allow you to control the quality of your soil. Soil quality is the number one consideration for successful gardening. The second major advantage of raised beds is that you can garden without getting down on your hands and knees to tend your garden. For older gardeners, this is a real benefit and can make gardening more fun. Placing a wood or metal “seat rail” on top of each side of the raised bed allows you to sit on the edge of the planter for easier weeding or tending.

Another advantage with raised beds is that with bed sidewalls exposed to the sun, soil temperature in the beds can be slightly higher than with a normal garden. And surprisingly, a simple degree or two in soil temperature can make a big difference in the growth of your plants.

Other benefits of raised beds are that: (1) vegetables can be planted a bit closer together and thereby a better yield per square foot of garden space, and (2) raised bed soil will not be as compacted as normal garden soil. There are no rows between plants that are walked on and no wheelbarrows traveling over to compact the soil. Less compaction means more fertile soil for better plant growth.

What Types of Raised Beds are Commonly Used?
Raised beds are made from many materials: stone, concrete block, concrete riprap, treated or plain lumber, galvanized steel panels, railroad ties, and more. Whatever material is used the structure needs to be strong and durable. You can imagine that a well-watered 18 to 24-inch high column of soil carries a lot of weight, especially laterally. So, your “container” needs to be strong enough to support that soil weight. If you’re not too handy, there are raised bed kits available online and in some box stores. These kits can vary in quality and durability, so take care choosing a unit that will work for the long haul.

If money is no object, you can buy commercial galvanized steel feed troughs as your raised bed. They come in a variety of sizes and are sturdy, good-looking, and will last years. Simply drill a series of ½ inch holes in the bottom for good drainage and VOILA! -a great raised bed.

More likely, you will choose to make your raised beds using materials that are commonly available from local stores or surplus outlets, such as treated or kiln-dried lumber, concrete block, concrete riprap, stone, or galvanized steel panels.

Material Considerations
Concrete block: Concrete block can make a good raised bed, but you need to be prepared to spend some time tweaking and adjusting rows of blocks. You need to start with a level site. Blocks are heavy to work with and even a slight change in ground level on the first row can translate to a bigger problem on the second row. This requires patience and some determination to get it right.

Stone or riprap concrete: If you have a supply of stone or riprap to use, great. But this can be heavy work and you need to be careful with stacking stone or concrete to create a solid structure that will last.

Treated or kiln-dried lumber: All wood will eventually rot, even treated wood. Whenever wood is in contact with soil, wood will begin to deteriorate. Especially at today’s lumber prices, you want your investment in a raised bed to provide years of reliable service. There are techniques to add to the life of wood used in raised beds, which are discussed in the website materials described below. Caution: Chemicals used to treat lumber can leach into the soil and contaminate the plants being grown.

Corrugated galvanized steel panels: From both a cost and durability perspective corrugated galvanized steel side panels with treated wood corner posts and treated wood seat rails are sturdy and long-lasting. The steel panels are lightweight and easily cut with metal shears, skill saw or jig saw with metal cutting blades. These materials are available at almost any hardware or box store. The galvanized steel sidewalls will last many years and will not leach chemicals into the soil as can some treated wood. Placing a treated 2-foot by 6-foot board horizontally across the top of each sidewall creates a handy seat for use when weeding and tending your garden.

If you’d like to learn more about how to build this raised bed, download the pdf here> which includes detailed “how to” information, complete with construction diagrams, instructions, materials list, and cost estimates for a typical 4-foot by 8-foot by 2-foot-high raised bed.

REFERENCES:

Boeckmann, C. A step-by-step guide to building an easy DIY raised garden bed. Updated July 26, 2023. https://www.almanac.com/content/how-build-raised-garden-bed/

Cogger, C. Raised beds: will they benefit your garden. https://pubs.extension.wsu.edu/raised-beds-deciding-if-they-benefit-your-vegetable-garden-home-garden-series

Faust, A. Finlay, E. How to Construct a Raised Bed in the Garden. July 5, 2023. Penn State Extension. https://extension.psu.edu/how-to-construct-a-raised-bed-in-the-garden

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Dave Buchan has been a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener since 2012.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a Master Gardener, may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: https://extension.wsu.edu/skagit/mg/

Season Extenders

These practices can extend the growing season by as much as two to four weeks.

By Hallie Kintner, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Every spring and fall gardeners commiserate over what feels like a short growing season. Our area has between 200 and 230 growing days,¹ whereas locations in southwest Washington can have as many as 50 additional growing days. Here in Skagit County gardeners successfully extend the growing season by using what is called season-extending practices. These practices are quite common in colder climates and can lead to larger plant starts in the spring, earlier harvests, and a longer growing season in the fall. Some add to the growing season as much as two to four weeks in both the spring and the fall.²

This cover stores flat and pops up to form a cylinder around a container or a plant to keep it warm and protect against the wind. The top mesh unzips for ventilation and rainfall. Photo © Hallie Kintner

Spring and fall weather in our area can see nighttime temperatures drop into the 50° F and even into the 40° F range, making the soil temperatures fall below the optimum for some vegetables and early-season fruits like strawberries. Few plants grow well when temperatures drop below freezing.

To extend the growing season and enjoy the bounty of the garden longer, these are some of the methods Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners use in the Discovery Garden on Hwy 536 west of Mount Vernon.

Raised beds
In addition to the many advantages raised beds provide, they extend the garden season. The soil in raised beds warms earlier in the spring and maintains its warmth later in the fall.

Cold frames
Resembling low-walled raised beds, cold frames are bottomless boxes with clear glass or plastic lids attached by a hinge. The lid can be opened or closed depending on the temperature. Cold frames protect plants from wind, rain, ice, snow, and cool temperatures. The hinged lid is opened on warmer days when it becomes too hot inside for the plants and closed again in the evening. Cold frames also have a long history of being used for starting seeds or hardening off plants before planting in the garden. ³

Cold frames should be placed on well-drained soils with southern exposures. Interior temperatures are warmed by the sun heating the frame and soil. With the addition of an external heating element like electric heating cables, a cold frame can become a hot frame.

Cold frames work especially well for growing cool-season crops like lettuce, radishes, and spinach in the spring. Start cool season vegetables in late summer with the cold frame lid open and then, as summer moves into fall and the nights become cooler, close the lid to retain warmth.

Milk jugs or other plastic containers can be used as miniature greenhouses for starting seeds in winter, getting a jump on spring planting. Our 12/22 blog explains this technique at https://www.skagitmg.org/winter-sowing-technique/

Cloches
These covers act as miniature greenhouses for individual plants. The word “cloche” is a French word meaning a bell-shaped cover. A cloche can be a glass jar or a translucent plastic milk jug, cut in half and placed over an entire plant. As with cold frames, when using a cloche be certain to allow ventilation as the temperature increases. Glass or plastic cloches can protect against wind, weather, and even snails and slugs.

Water-filled tomato protectors are another type of cloche. They are plastic cylinders consisting of water-filled tubes that are placed teepee-style around individual young plants. The protectors act like an igloo to protect heat-loving transplants like tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, melons, and eggplants early in the season. The sun warms the water in the cells during the day, and the heat is released slowly during the night. The tomato protectors can be removed when the plants grow outside the cylinder and the weather improves. They can protect down to about 16° Fahrenheit. ⁴

These row covers in the Discovery Garden allow rain to go through them while protecting against cold temperatures and insects. Photo © Kay Torrance
Floating row covers
Row covers are synthetic fabrics placed on top of a plant row or raised bed. They allow rain to go through them while protecting against cold temperatures and insects.⁵ Unlike the cold frames and cloches, row covers don’t protect against deer and other critters. Use garden staples or soil pins to anchor row covers, keeping them in place during windy conditions.

The synthetic fabrics used for row covers are available in different thicknesses corresponding to varying levels of light transmission and cold insulation. Light-weight row covers transmit 80%-90% of the light but are easily torn and do not protect against frost. Medium-weight row covers protect to 28° Fahrenheit and transmit 85% of available light. Heavy-weight row covers transmit only 35-50% of the light but can protect to 24° Fahrenheit. Heavy-weight covers are best for frost events; remove them after the temperature rises. 

If the plants you are growing need pollination by insects, such as cucumbers, squash, and pumpkins, remove the covers after the plants bloom so that the insects can reach the flowers.

Unfortunately, strong winds can blow away floating row covers and damage tender plants. To solve this, many gardeners attach the fabric to temporary arched structures. These supported row covers consist of row cover fabric draped over and attached to bent tubes or rods, forming a hoop tunnel or a ribbed framework. The ends of the row cover are opened to allow ventilation to enter where the fabric is gathered and secured. The tunnel can be opened on warm, sunny days and then closed overnight.

Tunnels can be low, only 2-3 feet tall for a row of low-growing plants like greens or a raised bed.⁶ Low tunnels are best for low-growing, heat-tolerant plants including strawberries, melons, herbs, certain cucumbers, and greens.

If fungal diseases are an issue, plastic sheeting can be draped over the hoops to replace the row cover fabric. The resulting tunnels protect plants from the rain⁶ but the plants will require irrigation and will be warmer than the row cover fabric.

Tunnels can also be tall enough for an adult to stand (high tunnels). Many commercial high tunnels are too large for home gardeners because they are meant for the plants to be grown in the ground. ⁷ High tunnels for home gardeners are often temporary structures constructed of plastic or fabric draped over a metal ribbing and attached to a short, wooden wall as a foundation.  Both high and low tunnels are typically unheated and without access to electricity.

Gardeners often get creative when it comes to protecting early season tomato starts. Collected on a garden cart, these starts enjoy a sunny spring day, and then are easily moved back into the garage in the evening to protect from cooler overnight temperatures.Photo © Kay Torrance

By loosely laying plastic over the garden cart in the evening, some of the heat captured is heat is retained into the evening hours. Photo © Kay Torrance
Greenhouses
The king of season extenders is the greenhouse. These permanent structures consist of glass or plastic panels built into wood or metal frames usually on a foundation. To provide a warm, moist environment, greenhouses need power for ventilation and lights, drainage, and benches along with garden equipment. A greenhouse is a major investment of resources and requires careful planning. ³  

The purpose of all-season extenders is to protect plants from the cold weather by trapping heat from the sun, keeping plants and soil warmer as the outside temperatures drop, and protecting them from the elements. Try some of the techniques outlined here and you will reap the benefits from an extended growing season.  

REFERENCES:

1. McMoran, D. (2015) Skagit County Washington State University Extension Agricultural Statistics. https://extension.wsu.edu/skagit/agriculture/
2. Steil, A. (2023) All about cold frames. Iowa State University. https://hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/all-about-cold-frames
3. Hamilton, M., Werlin, J., Boone, K., & Austin, G. (2022) An introduction to season extension for high-altitude, short-season gardens. University of Idaho Extension BUL936, September 1, 2022. https://www.uidaho.edu/extension/publications/publication-detail?id=bul0936
4. Hodges, L., (2007) Early Season Extension Using Hotcaps. University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension G1745.  https://extensionpublications.unl.edu/assets/pdf/g1745.pdf
5. Parker, J., Miles, C., Murray, T., & Snyder, W. (2012) How to install a floating row cover. Washington State University Extension Fact Sheet FS089E, 2012. https://pubs.extension.wsu.edu/how-to-install-a-floating-row-cover-home-garden-series

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Hallie Kintner is a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener, Class of 2020. She is a member of the Community Outreach and Education Committee and enjoys working in the vegetable garden at the Discovery Garden on Hwy 536 west of Mount Vernon.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a Master Gardener, may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: https://extension.wsu.edu/skagit/mg/

© Pexels.com

The Health Benefits of Gardening

As our gardens move towards winter we pause to realize what a gift gardening is to us all. 

By Kathy Wolfe, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Most gardeners know from experience the benefits they feel from working in their gardens. These moments are what keep us going back season to season, year after year, whether it is the joy of nurturing our landscapes, the creativity of design, the bounty of our vegetable harvest, or the camaraderie of sharing a goal working with our children, family, or gardening friends.

As author Sue Stuart-Smith writes in The Well-Gardened Mind: The Restorative Power of Nature, “gardening is more accessible than other creative endeavors, such as painting and music, because you are halfway there before you start; the seed has all its potential within it – the gardener simply helps unlock it.”

Gardening increases social connections and increases the size of your support group. © Nancy Crowell Photography

Gardening rewards us by igniting all of our senses. © Nancy Crowell Photography

Gardening rewards us by igniting our senses. The scents of flowers and herbs wafting through the air, the calls of birds and bees going about their daily business, the taste of the season’s first cherry tomato straight off the vine, the dazzling rainbow of colorful flowers, or the feel of earthiness in the soil, as we dig up the dirt. All contribute to our feeling of calm and connectiveness.

In addition to the intrinsic feelings gardeners share, scientific studies have found other benefits that can help improve physical and mental health. This has led to the forming of groups that work with physically and mentally disabled individuals using techniques practiced in gardening to improve their lives. Many undergoing physical rehabilitation have improved mobility of limbs and coordination. Those struggling with their abilities to focus, such as attention-deficit / hyperactivity disorder (ADHD) patients, can learn over time to concentrate on the task at hand. Studies have found people experiencing mood disorders or post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD) can alter EEG recordings, and reduce stress, fear, anger, and sadness as well as blood pressure by working with plants.

Gardening provides the camaraderie of sharing a goal working with our children, family, or gardening friends. © Nancy Crowell Photography

Gardeners know from experience the benefits they feel being in a gardens. These moments are what keep us going back season after season, sharing the joy of a nurtured landscape. © Nancy Crowell Photography

Let’s look at some of the findings of gardening’s benefits for all of us:

Improving mood – Focusing on immediate tasks and details can calm the mind away from negative thoughts and feelings, giving us a more peaceful and content frame of mind.

Self-esteem boost – Seeing plants grow and thrive under our guidance leads to feelings of accomplishment for our efforts.

Improvement in attention span – Paying full attention to a single activity can be difficult at times in this age of technological bombardment. Gardening helps us concentrate on what is right in front of us without getting distracted. This concentration can transfer to other situations over time. Studies show that outdoor activities are a benefit to everyone.

Provides exercise – Through digging, weeding, raking, and hauling, our bodies move several different muscle groups which help improve heart rate, muscle strength, immunity, and overall mental well-being. Reducing anxiety and depression can be a result.

Learning resilience – Not everything in the garden goes as planned. Learning from our mistakes and pushing forward to rectify problems or begin the project anew helps forge stronger resolve to get good results.

Encourages social bonds – Working at a community garden or in a group fosters teamwork and cooperation to achieve shared goals. By increasing social connections, you may increase the size of your support group and also help you identify as being a part of the general gardening community.

Nothing quite beats the satisfaction of harvesting vegetables grown in your own garden. © Ruth Sutton

Seeing plants grow and thrive under our guidance leads to feelings of accomplishment for our efforts. © Nancy Crowell Photography

Horticultural Therapy has been documented in ancient times and practiced in America since the 19th century when Dr. Benjamin Rush, who is recognized as the “Father of American Psychiatry,” first documented the positive effects that working in the garden had on mental illness patients. In the 1940s and 1950s gardening was used to help hospitalized war veterans transition from both mental and physical traumas experienced during their service.

Gardens have been used in prisons and mental health facilities to help participants make connections through the soil as they witness the seeds they planted emerge and thrive through their efforts. Children’s gardens, particularly in deprived areas of large cities, can provide a needed calming environment and help

teach students where their food comes from. Studies have shown these gardens can be most beneficial to children who sometimes get lost in the regular classroom – those who are unmotivated, have special needs, or experience behavioral problems.

The American Horticultural Therapy Association offers accredited certificate coursework for becoming a professional in this field. Their criteria for being a horticultural therapist include having a minimum of a bachelor’s degree in horticultural therapy, or additional coursework in plant science, human science, and horticultural therapy. Members must complete a 480-hour internship in horticultural therapy and professionally register through their organization.

Even as our gardens slowly move into dormancy over the winter, we are still engaged with looking backward at the successes and challenges of the past year and at the same time are invigorated by planning changes, improvements, and additions we want to implement in the year ahead. What a multifaceted gift gardening is to us all!

REFERENCES:

Gillihan, S. 10 Mental Health Benefits of Gardening. Psychology Today [Internet] 2019 June 19. https://www.psychologytoday.com/us/blog/think-act-be/201906/10-mental-health-benefits-gardening

Davis, D. Hayes, J. What Are the Benefits of Mindfulness. Continuing Education (CE) Psychology [Internet], 2012 July/August Vol. 43, No. 7. https://www.apa.org/monitor/2012/07-08/ce-corner

WebMD Editorial Contributors. How Gardening Affects Mental Health. Web MD [Internet] 2021 Oct. 25. https://www.webmd.com/mental-health/how-gardening-affects-mental-health

Schattenberg, P. The Positive Effects of Gardening on Mental Health. Texas A&M AgriLife Communications [Internet] 2022 May 18. The Positive Effects Of Gardening On Mental Health – Texas A&M Today (tamu.edu)

Hall, C. Knuth, M. An Update of the Literature Supporting the Well-Being Benefits of Plants: A Review of the Emotional and Mental Health Benefits of Plants. Journal of Environmental Horticulture. Meridian Allen Press [Internet] 2019 37 (1): 30-38. https://meridian.allenpress.com/jeh/article/37/1/30/430948/An-Update-of-the-Literature-Supporting-the-Well

Horticultural Therapy. American Horticultural Therapy Association. [Internet]. https://www.ahta.org/horticultural-therapy

Stuart-Smith, S. The Well-Gardened Mind – The Restorative Power of Nature. Simon & Schuster 2020.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Kathy Wolfe has been Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener since 2002. She is co-manager of the vegetable garden at the Discovery Garden on SR 536 west of Mount Vernon.

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Questions about home gardening or becoming a Master Gardener, may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: https://extension.wsu.edu/skagit/mg/

Plant Bulbs Now For Spring Color

Take the time in the fall to plant bulbs and enjoy the first signs of spring in late January.

By Jessamyn Tuttle, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Bulbs are an important part of the spring garden. They provide color and interest when it’s most appreciated, as well as food for early pollinators. After putting on a spectacular show throughout spring, bulbs then fade into dormancy and let the summer garden do its thing.

To make that happen, however, the work of planting bulbs needs to happen in the fall. It’s strangely satisfying to put dry, dormant bulbs into the garden on a blustery October day, knowing that in just a few short months they will be shooting up new growth and flowers.

Crocus tommasinianus © Jessamyn Tuttle

Iris histrioides ‘Katharine Hodgkin’ © Jessamyn Tuttle

Early Bloomers
The first bulbs to bloom here in Western Washington are typically snowdrops (Galanthus spp.), often emerging in January but coming into their full bloom in late February. Whether planted in clumps or a massive drift, snowdrops are a sure sign that spring is on the horizon. Snowdrops are always white with green or yellow markings, the double-flowered varieties are particularly charming.

Winter aconite (Eranthis hyemalis) is a tuberous member of the buttercup family, providing a vivid spot of yellow surrounded by a frill of greenery. It blooms around the same time as snowdrops with a bonus in that it’s resistant to deer and rabbits.

Iris reticulata ‘Harmony’ © Jessamyn Tuttle

Muscari © Jessamyn Tuttle

Miniature iris, also called rock garden iris or bulbous iris, begin blooming in February. Unlike bearded irises, which grow from rhizomes, these come from small bulbs and are easy to slip into the garden wherever you have a bit of space between plants, especially those that go dormant in the winter. The miniature iris flowers are only a few inches across and sit on short stems. They are unfortunately wildly popular with slugs, so you may need to get out in the garden with slug bait earlier than usual to protect them. The most commonly available species, Iris reticulata, comes in white, blue, and purple. You can also find bright yellow I. danfordiae, or look for the fancy veining of I. histrioides (‘Katharine Hodgkin’ is a particular favorite.)

Crocuses pop up on the heels of snowdrops. Their grassy foliage comes up from the corm in February or March, followed quickly by delicate flowers in brilliant colors including white, yellow, lavender, and deep purple. They only open on sunny days, protecting their fragile petals from rain. The earliest varieties, commonly called snow crocus, include smaller-flowered species like Crocus chrysanthus and Crocus tommasinianus, which come in a lovely range of colors and patterns. The larger cultivars, sometimes called Dutch crocus, like C. vernus ‘Pickwick’ and ‘Jeanne d’Arc’ appear a few weeks later. Crocuses are deer-resistant, although not slug-resistant. Crocuses can be planted in swathes in lawns if you’re able to hold off on mowing until the foliage has ripened, otherwise, they fit nicely anywhere in the garden where they will get some sun.

Muscari armeniacum, also known as grape hyacinth, is a wonderful addition to the spring garden thanks to its pure blue color (they also come in white, purple, and pink). Muscari spreads with enthusiasm by both seed and bulb offset, so be aware of the commitment you’re making when planting it. Blooming in March and April, it makes a perfect companion for daffodils. A slightly earlier option for blue flowers is Chionodoxa or Glory-of-the-Snow. These deceptively fragile little blossoms pop out of seemingly nowhere and look their best when planted en masse. Species include C. luciliae and C. forbesii, among others, and also come in pink and white.

Tete a tete miniature Narcissus © Jessamyn Tuttle

Snowdrops © Jessamyn Tuttle

The Narcissus Family is Wide and Diverse
While the most commonly seen type of narcissus is the large yellow trumpet daffodil like ‘King Alfred’ or ‘Dutch Master,’ there are hundreds of varieties to choose from, including early blooming miniatures like ‘Tete a Tete,’ a tiny yellow trumpet narcissus, which is often available in pots very early in the season, but does just as well planted out in the garden, often coming up through a layer of snow. ‘February Gold’ is a slightly taller yellow miniature, while ‘Jack Snipe’ is a handsome dwarf Narcissus featuring a yellow trumpet surrounded by white, swept-back petals.

For a real punch, the distinctive Narcissus ‘Jetfire’ offers bright yellow and red-orange blooms. One of the very earliest daffodils, however, is ‘Rijnveld’s Early Sensation’ which produces a full-size trumpet daffodil flower a full month before other daffodils, an impressive show that sometimes gets cut abruptly short by a late winter snowfall or windstorm.

Later blooming varieties include the big trumpet daffodils but also the small cup, doubles, and large cup, like the classic ‘Ice Follies’ with its white petals and flat yellow cup, and the pretty, fragrant tazetta daffodils like the delightful white and orange cultivar ‘Geranium.’ Late season brings the delicate, backswept flowers of Narcissus poeticus var. recurvus, also known as ‘Pheasant Eye’ daffodil.

‘Spring Green’ tulip © Jessamyn Tuttle

Tulipa saxatilis © Jessamyn Tuttle

The Pinnacle of Spring
For many people, especially here in Skagit Valley, the pinnacle of spring is when the tulips bloom. There are many, many varieties of tulips, including single early, single late, doubles, parrots, triumph, Darwin hybrids, emperor, and fringed, each with its own bloom time and flower type. They come in every color except blue, from ‘Spring Green’, a white tulip with pale green stripes to the nearly black ‘Queen of Night.’

There are also species of tulips which are less showy than the big hybrids but very hardy and great for naturalizing in the garden. Tulipa saxatilis is a vigorous spreader that carpets the ground with showy lavender-pink flowers with brilliant yellow centers, while T. batalinii ‘Bright Gem’ has blue-green foliage topped with yellow or apricot flowers streaked with pink.

Chionodoxa, or glory-of-the-snow © Jessamyn Tuttle

Tulipa batalini ‘Bright Gem’ © Jessamyn Tuttle

Planting Spring Bulbs
The rule for most bulbs is to plant in late fall or early winter, setting them at a depth 2-3 times the size of the bulb. Not planting bulbs deep enough is often what causes them, especially tulips, to vanish instead of coming back year after year. Pick a spot with full or at least part sun, and well-draining soil. Bulbs do not do well in damp spots. You can add some bulb fertilizer to the soil while planting if you like. Small, early-blooming bulbs can be tucked in throughout a garden bed, but all bulbs look beautiful planted together in a group to make swathes of color in the spring.

Bulbs should be well watered at the time of planting and while actively growing and flowering but do best when allowed to stay mostly dry through their summer dormancy. And if you want your bulbs to come back next year, don’t cut the foliage down until it has ripened, since the leaves are what provide the bulb with food for the next season.

If you plant every bulb listed here, you should have a succession of colors starting in January until the rest of the garden fills out in May. Enjoy!

REFERENCES:

https://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/Portals/0/Gardening/Gardening%20Help/Factsheets/Flowering%20%20Bulbs17.pdf

Botts, B. Early spring bulbs. Chicago Botanic Garden https://www.chicagobotanic.org/plantinfo/smart_gardener/early_spring_bulbs

Slade, N (2014). The plant lover’s guide to snowdrops. Timber Press.

Austin, C (2005). Irises: A gardener’s encyclopedia. Timber Press.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Jessamyn Tuttle is a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener, Class of 2017. She is co-manager of the Plant House and also coordinates the Iris Garden room in the Discovery Garden on Hwy 536 west of Mount Vernon.

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Questions about home gardening or becoming a Master Gardener, may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: https://extension.wsu.edu/skagit/mg/

Seed Saving and Sharing

Open the door to learning about plants in a whole new way.

By Sheri Rylaarsdam, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Want to see an adult in an eight-foot-tall sunflower costume? Let your vegetables grow into monsters? Save some cold hard cash? Save an heirloom plant or design a new one?

These are all possibilities once one starts down the road of seed saving. You can begin almost accidentally by not pulling all the radishes in the garden. Several weeks later you’ll notice they have grown six feet tall with multiple branches and hundreds of seedpods. The original radish is an unrecognizable nob at the bottom of the magnificent plant.

Radish plants gone to seed in the author’s garden. © Photo by Sheri Rylaarsdam

Radish seed pods can be collected when they turn brown and look dried out. Interestingly, they are also edible. © Photo by Sheri Rylaarsdam

Now you know getting started is easy enough. So next you may be asking “What other vegetables produce harvestable seeds when left to grow?”

First, always save seeds from open-pollinated plants, not hybrids. Open-pollinated seeds are plants pollinated openly by wind, rain, or flying critters. Heirloom seeds are included in this category, named so because the saved seeds have produced ‘true to type’ plants for fifty years or more. The seeds collected from hybrid plants are sterile because they are a manually-produced cross between two varieties and will not grow true to form.

It is easiest to save inbred or self-pollinated seeds. These are seeds of plants whose pollen is transferred within the same flower or from one flower to the other within the same plant. Peas, beans, lettuce, and most tomatoes are examples of plants with inbred or self-pollinating seeds.

Beet plants grow tall when left to seed. © Photo by Sheri Rylaarsdam

Cobra green pole beans going to seed. © Photo by Sheri Rylaarsdam

Harvesting Self-Pollinating Seeds
Let beans and peas dry on the plant, then pick the pods to shell. Thresh the pods by hand. The chaff can be winnowed by tossing the pods in the wind and catching the seeds in a basin.

Lettuce seeds send up a seed stalk, ripening two to three weeks after flowering. Harvest daily by shaking the seeds into a paper bag. The lettuce feathers and chaff can then be separated from the seeds using a fine mesh screen.

To save seeds from tomatoes, choose fully ripe tomatoes. Cut across the equator of the tomato and scrape out the gel and seeds. Let the seeds ferment for a couple of days until a black or white mold forms on top. This helps remove any pathogens on the seed surface and also removes the natural germination inhibitor that coats the seed. Strain off the mold and rinse the seeds slowly and carefully. Drain in a fine mesh strainer and dry thoroughly on a saucer. Be sure to label the saved seeds with the name of the variety and the date they were saved. Since the viability of seeds is most affected by fluctuating temperature and moisture levels, it is important to store them in a cool, dry place-ideally in a tightly closed glass jar in the refrigerator.

Harvesting Wind-Pollinated Seeds
Varieties of wind-pollinated plants need to be separated by distance or mature at different times in order not to cross. Wind-pollinated plants include beets, chard, spinach, and corn. Corn pollen is light and can be carried long distances by the wind. A distance of two miles is the recommended isolation distance. A minimum of two hundred plants is needed to have enough genetic diversity.
Harvesting Seeds Pollinated by Bees
Bee-pollinated plants include many ornamental flowers and these vegetable families: Apiaceae (carrots, dill, parsley, cilantro, parsnip, chervil, caraway), Amaryllidaceae (onion, garlic, shallots, scallions, chives, leeks), Brassicaceae (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, turnips, kale) and Cucurbitaceae (squash, pumpkins, gourds). If vegetables have the same Latin name they can cross. Avoid cross-pollination by allowing just one type of vegetable from each family to go to seed. For example, if one lets leeks go to seed, do not let onions, garlic, shallots, scallions, or chives go to seed at the same time. The seed-producing vegetable also needs to be isolated from other seed-producing vegetables in its family by one-half mile. Cucurbitaceae are often hand-pollinated. Professional seed savers often use a system of cages to avoid cross-pollination.

Carrots, cabbages, beets, and onions are examples of biennials. These should be left in the ground or stored over the winter and replanted in spring to produce seed in the second year.

Start with something easy. Choose a variety of beans, peas, lettuce, or tomato that is delicious, grows vigorously, is a good producer, and is resistant to pests and diseases. Once you’ve started saving seeds, collect all the seeds you can. Then you’ll have plenty to plant next year, some to share, some to donate to a seed library or take to a seed swap.

Sharing seeds by donating to a seed library can make it easy for new gardeners to get started. Supplying seeds and information encourages gardeners to be out in nature, eat healthy food, and save money. Seed swaps are an excellent way to get seeds for the garden for the whole next year. Seed swap events usually have music, food, classes, and sometimes adults dressed up like sunflowers!

One can support biodiversity by supporting seed banks, buying from seed companies that increase biodiversity, and contributing to seed libraries and local seed guilds. The U.S. has lost a large percentage of its food plant biodiversity in the last 100 years. By saving seeds, you are doing your part to preserve the genetic diversity which is vital for the future of our food supply.

Seed stewards work to increase, not decrease, biodiversity. By saving and growing open-pollinated varieties of vegetables in the same area for many years and selecting for taste, disease resistance, and productivity, one can develop an improved vegetable. The selected variety will have the characteristics necessary to withstand unfavorable local conditions such as drought or heavy soil.

Seed saving is a gateway to learning about vegetables and flowers in a whole new way, witnessing their whole life cycle and how they interact with other plants. It has led to a new appreciation for nature’s abundance. Through seed sharing, I’ve contributed to altruistic causes that make a difference in the daily lives of people in our community. And I’ve met interesting people that make me smile-such as the fellow seed sharer wearing an eight-foot-tall sunflower costume.

REFERENCES:

Ashworth, Suzanne, 2002, Seed to Seed, Seed Savers Exchange

Gardening for Everyone: Seed Saving/WSU Lewis County Extension/ s3.wp.wsu.edu/uploads/sites/2057/2022/02/Seed-Saving-Handout.pdf

Op-ed: Saving Heirloom Seeds Can Protect Crop Diversity/civil eats/civileats.com/2022/01/27

Community Horticultural Fact Sheet #17/ WSU Jefferson County Extension/ extension.wsu.edu/jefferson/master-gardener-seed-library

Hubbard, Kristina K. January 11, 2019
https://civileats.com/2019/01/11/the-sobering-details-behind-the-latest-seed-monopoly-chart/

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Sheri Rylaarsdam is a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener, Class of 2019. She is an avid seed saver and vegetable grower.

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Questions about home gardening or becoming a Master Gardener, may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: https://extension.wsu.edu/skagit/mg/

There’s No Better Place to Make Cider than the Skagit Valley

With the feel of fall in the air some of us just can’t resist the lure of a science project. And there is no better than pressing apples to make apple juice and cider. 

By Ginny Bode, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Master Gardeners are an inquisitive bunch and are known for their resourcefulness when it comes to making use of the bounty found in their gardens and orchards. From apples to zucchinis, Master Gardeners have multiple ideas for their preservation and use, all capitalizing on our garden’s harvest because after all, what is better than sitting down to enjoy the food and drink you’ve sourced and prepared?

First off, let’s make sure we are speaking the same language when it comes to apple juice and cider. Many of us think of apple juice as the clear juice that we drank at lunch in school. Apple cider was a rich unfiltered juice we enjoyed in the fall. Those terms are no longer accurate in the marketplace. Though many still use the term ‘cider’ to refer to a non-alcoholic beverage pressed from apples and Websters still defines cider as both fermented and non-alcoholic, in the last 10 years the terminology in the US (both legal and popular) has changed to align with the rest of the world, and cider refers to a fermented drink. For this article, the liquid pressed from apples, both clear and with pulp, is referred to as juice and sometimes sweet cider.

Toby bought his press Correll Cider Press with an electric drive mill more than 20 years ago. He and his friends press 100 gallons of sweet cider each year. © Ginny Bode

While many are content to press their apples to make a pulp-rich juice to drink hot or cold year-round, the juice is also the first step in making ‘hard cider’ or apple cider vinegar. Here we’ll take you through the process of choosing apples and pressing for apple juice and point you to many resources for making fermented apple cider, including that of WSU’s cider research program here in Skagit County.

Choosing The Right Apples For Pressing

Since the settling of America, the northern zones of the US have produced an abundance of apples. Understanding and selecting the right apples for pressing is essential to achieving a delicious and well-balanced flavor.

While many apple varieties can be used and each cider maker has a personal preference, certain types are better suited for cider making than others. Master Gardener Toby Richner has been pressing apples for 40+ years. He believes the key to his success is choosing apples by the season of ripening. Apples ripening early in the season, such as Gravenstein and Pink Lady are tart and considered dessert apples. Ripening later in the season, cider apples such as Kings and Northern Spy produce a sweeter juice because they have been exposed to the sun much longer in the season. Look for apples that possess a good balance of sweetness, acidity, and tannins. He recommends blending apple varieties and possibly adding a ratio of pears to achieve a balanced taste.

These ¾ full 5 gal. buckets of apples pressed into 2 gallons of cider… plus several glasses for ‘test’ tasting. © Ginny Bode

The apples are ground with a mill prior to pressing. © Ginny Bode

At the WSU Mount Vernon NWREC (research center) on Hwy 536 West of Mount Vernon, researchers have compiled a list of 73 cider cultivars-evaluating the apples for their vigor, susceptibility to disease, and quality of the juice for making cider. Though the study is intended for commercial growers the list is helpful when selecting the best apples for your project. https://cider.wsu.edu/ciderweb/

You will need thirty to forty apples to press a gallon of juice. The volume of apples needed to produce many gallons of apples can be cost-prohibitive for the hobbyist unless one has access to an orchard, or can source apples from friends and neighbors. Toby Richner sources the apples needed for the 100 gallons of cider he and his friends produce by relying on years of relationships developed through trading apples for gallons of fresh pressed juice.

Windfall vs. Picked

Many home cider-makers believe windfall apples, those which have fallen due to ripeness and wind, produce the best cider. Scientists say using windfall apples safely depends on how you intend to use the juice-drinking immediately or processing to make hard cider.

If pressing for sweet cider only, WSU Masters student Seth Brawner, working on cider research here at WSU Mount Vernon NWREC, recommends against using windfall apples. He says, that even if pasteurized, the toxin patulin can survive in the juice and cause people to get sick. To avoid this, only use picked apples in sweet cider. Seth goes on to say, “If using your pressed juice to make hard cider, windfall apples can be used because fermentation is considered a “kill step” because the alcohol produced during this process will destroy patulin and eliminate pathogens in the cider.”

When using windfall apples, take extra vigilance. Always cut away any areas bit by deer or other critters, dispose of any rotten or wormy areas, and wash thoroughly in a chlorine bath. Poor-quality fruit will diminish the taste of your cider. Michigan State University Extension has produced an excellent food safety guide referenced below.

Master Gardener Toby Richner has been making sweet cider for more than 40 years. Beyond enjoying great cider year around, he enjoys the community they’ve built trading apples for fresh pressed cider. © Ginny Bode

The press bears down on the milled apples to release the juice which flows into food grade containers-in this case, stainless steel buckets. © Ginny Bode

Equipment Needed for Homemade Sweet Cider

Along with apples, to embark on your home cider making journey you’ll need:

–      Cider Press– to efficiently extract the juice from the apples.
–     Food processor or grinder– to break down the apples before pressing.
–     Large food-grade vessel- a 20-30 gal container for mixing juice before bottling
–     2-3 gal. food-grade buckets for ‘catching’ the juice as pressed
–     Jugs and/or bottles – for storage

There are various methods for pressing apples available, ranging from simple hand-pressing techniques to using a specialized cider press. The cider press is the most efficient method of crushing the apples and releasing their juice while leaving behind the pulp and seeds. Home presses are available in many sizes and styles ranging from $100 to over $2000.

Preparing the Apples For Pressing
Start by washing the apples thoroughly to eliminate dirt or debris. Inspect each apple for any signs of damage or rot. Remove any spoiled fruits to ensure the quality of your cider. After cleaning, quarter the apples into small pieces, then, keeping the seeds and stems, grind them with a food processor or mill.
Pressing The Apples, Extracting and Storing the Juice
Now the fun begins-pressing the ground apples to obtain their flavorful juice. Capture the juice as it flows from the press. Strain the juice through a fine mesh, sieve, or cheesecloth to remove any remaining solids that may have slipped through the press. Transfer to clean jugs with airtight lids, leaving headspace for expansion when freezing. If you don’t have room in your freezer, the juice can be preserved through the canning process. Refrigerate if you plan to drink right away.

Commercially sold juices and sweet ciders are usually pasteurized for food safety purposes. Many home juice and cider-makers believe unpasteurized juice retains more flavor, vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. Though pasteurization doesn’t completely eliminate the risk of foodborne illness, it does reduce it.

The Fermentation Process: Taking the Next Step to Cider

When the apples have been pressed and the juice made, the real science project begins – the fermentation process. This crucial step is what turns pressed apple juice into flavorful and aromatic cider.

Adam Coy started his cider making adventure in his garage. He is now the cider maker for Farmstrong Brewing’s Ragged & Right Project in Mount Vernon. Coy says “cider making is fairly simple when you break it down. You need juice with a fair amount of natural sugar, a clean vessel to put it in, and a little yeast to start it all off. It should be kept cool, but not overly cold/freezing. Then it’s just a matter of time to let the yeast do its work. With just a few basic tools, anyone can make cider at home.”

He started home brewing, referring to it as an adult science project.  And like many cider makers, he bought the juice from a local orchard and found the basic supplies at the local brewing shop: a 6 gal. carboy (water cooler style jug); water lock and stopper; a hydrometer; a siphon and a thermometer.

Master Gardener Bob Bryan does the process from start to finish using apples from his orchard to create the cider. Filling the 6 gal. carboy with fresh pressed juice, he then lets the sediments settle out overnight before getting started. He uses sulfur dioxide (SO₂) to kill the microorganisms in the fresh-pressed juice. Then within 12-24 hours adds his preferred strain of yeast. The yeast consumes the natural sugars and converts them to alcohol. Both Bryan and Coy equate cider making to wine-making and enjoy the process of constantly measuring and maintaining proper temperature and oxygen levels to ensure successful fermentation.

The exact steps to the fermentation process can be found at https://cidersage.com/tutorials/hard-cider-making-tutorial/ or in WSU’s publication Hard Cider Production and Orchard Management in the Pacific Northwest. (https://pubs.extension.wsu.edu/hard-cider-production-and-orchard-management-in-the-pacific-northwest/)

Once a prominent part of American culture, cider making in the US is experiencing a resurgence in consumer demand with a 30-fold increase in the number of cideries. Skagit Valley is home to one of the main US apple research programs at WSU Mount Vernon NWREC and is an excellent place to start your cider making journey.

RESOURCES AND FURTHER LEARNING:

If you are highly interested in furthering your hard cider making expertise, the Cider Institute also offers online and in-person courses, including one offered in Mount Vernon in December of 2024. https://www.ciderinstitute.com/courses#Courses

https://cider.wsu.edu/  Washington State University

https://hardcider.cals.cornell.edu/ Cornell University

A brief history of cider in the US: https://cider.wsu.edu/history-of-cider/

https://www.agbizcenter.org/resources/all-things-cider/

https://www.nwcider.com/ Northwest Cider Association (NWCA) is a regional group of cider makers and orchardists from the PNW and British Columbia.

https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/its_cider_time
Sprague, S. and Venema, C.; Michigan State University Extension – November 22, 2022

https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/pasteurized_or_unpasteurized_juice_whats_the_difference

Nichols, J., Michigan State University Extension – September 12, 2014

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Ginny Bode is Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener and Co-editor of the Ask a Master Gardener Blog.

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Questions about home gardening or becoming a Master Gardener, may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: https://extension.wsu.edu/skagit/mg/

Mock Orange © Joan Stamm

Tallamy’s “Homegrown National Park”

A grass-roots movement of individual homeowners and gardeners growing native plants to restore habitats for biodiversity

By Joan D. Stamm, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

For the last thirty years, I’ve been enamored with native plants from Asia-peony, azalea, camellia, hydrangea, wisteria, kerria, bamboo, and chrysanthemum to name a few. I’ve grown or tried to grow all of them in my garden to use in ikebana (Japanese flower arranging). But more recently, after reading Douglas Tallamy’s Nature’s Best Hope: A New Approach to Conservation that Starts in Your Yard-a book that would irrevocably change my view of gardening-I’ve turned to NW natives.

Tallamy, a professor of entomology and wildlife ecology at the University of Delaware, urges us to ditch our lawns and ornamentals-our “introduced” species-and grow native plants instead. Conservation zones and national parks are not enough. Although these areas are meant to preserve native habitat for native plant, animal, and insect species, they are a small fraction of our overall landmass. “Turfgrass has replaced diverse native plant communities in more than 40 million acres, and we are adding 500 square miles of lawn to the United States each year,” says Tallamy, quoting from Elizabeth Kolbert’s Pulitzer prize-winning book The Sixth Extinction.

Monkey flower (Erythranthe lewisii) © Joan Stamm

Douglas aster (Symphyotrichum subspicatum © Joan Stamm

Then there’s the question of how we use our water resources as we see drought spreading across the Western U.S. and other parts of the world. “In the U.S., lawn irrigation consumes on average more than eight billion gallons of water daily”; and, according to the Environmental Protection Agency, “40-60 percent of fertilizers applied to lawns end up in surface and groundwater.” In addition, we have pesticides that further contaminate our water and routinely kill pollinators. “Forty percent of these chemicals are banned in other countries because they are carcinogens.”

Tallamy goes on to say that 3 billion birds have already disappeared since 1970 due to loss of food and habitat. “A staggering loss that suggests the very fabric of North America’s ecosystem is unraveling.” Birds are like the “canary in the coal mine” of climate change. When our birds start disappearing, we humans are in trouble. “In North America, 432 species of birds are at risk of extinction.”

Tallamy’s mission is to begin a grass-roots movement of individual homeowners and gardeners growing native plants to create corridors of natural landscape. His argument is simple: instead of millions of acres of lawns, golf courses, and urban/suburban “deadscapes,” we need native habitats to restore biodiversity. “It is insects that run the world,” he says, “and it takes certain native plants to support healthy populations of those insects.” In short, we need what Tallamy calls a “Homegrown National Park”: a return to the natural world with a balanced ecosystem.

Blanket flower (Gaillardia aristata) © Joan Stamm

Oregon grape (Mahonia aquifolium) © Joan Stamm

Tallamy suggests three action steps:

• Reduce our lawns (which will curb water, fertilizer, and pesticide use).
• Plant more natives (which will bring in beneficial habitat, food for native pollinators, and reduce water use).
• Remove invasives (because they crowd out and replace vital natives).

After reading Tallamy’s book I woke up to how “me” centered my gardening had been: growing plants that pleased only me, without the slightest thought to our many birds, butterflies, bees, and other creatures struggling to survive. For example, I found no reference that listed my beloved peonies as pollinator-friendly plants in the Pacific Northwest. Hydrangea? No. Kerria and wisteria? Not really. Camellia? Maybe. Cisco Morris suggests that Anna’s hummingbirds enjoy ‘Yuletide,’ since it is red, single-petaled, and blooms in winter, but I have no personal observation to report. More importantly, “80% of a hummingbird’s diet is insects and spiders.”

Backyard before conversion to natural landscape © Joan Stamm

Backyard after conversion to native corridor landscape © Joan Stamm

“And what about cultivars?”, many ask Tallamy. What about those many stunning and alluring flower and leaf varieties produced through selective breeding that we find at most of our nurseries? According to research done by Tallamy and other scientists, whether a cultivar retains any benefit to pollinators depends on what got modified. He advises avoiding plants where the leaf color has been changed from green to brown, purple or red (because insects like chlorophyll), and best to avoid flowers that went from single-petaled to multi-petaled (bees can’t get inside), or plants that have been made sterile. On the other hand, a woody plant made shorter is relatively okay. In sum, no size fits all. A quick tutorial can be found on the Grow Native website https://grownative.org/learn/natives-cultivars-and-nativars/ or in the Q&A in Tallamy’s book.

Two last bits of important advice for encouraging beneficial insect/caterpillar production to feed those hungry birds is to “leave the leaves” and turn off outdoor nighttime lighting. Cleaning up leaf litter destroys important habitat for invertebrates. “Our fall cleanup,” says Tallamy, “is particularly hard on bee populations; the perennials we are anxious to cut back after they have bloomed are where pithy stem nesters are hoping to spend the winter.” As for outdoor lighting, harsh LEDs destroy moths and other nighttime insects that are crucial to the ecosystem. Either turn off outdoor lighting at night, invest in motion detectors, or if you must have light, use “yellow bug lights.”

As for my ikebana arrangements? Well, my strong attachment to certain Japanese flowers won’t depart easily, and I’m not saying that I won’t grow a few peonies anymore, but I know too much now to return to my old habits. I’ve started using native plants and flowers in my flower designs.

If you do decide to join the Homegrown National Park movement and go “native,” get registered here: https://www.homegrownnationalpark.org/ . Collectively, I believe we can make a difference and help restore our earth’s ecosystem. With so many dire statistics, there’s no time to lose.

REFERENCES:

• Fitzpatrick, John and Marra, Peter. September 2019. “Decline of the North American Avifauna.” Science.
• Kolbert, Elizabeth. 2014. “The Sixth Extinction: An Unnatural History”. New York: Henry Holt & Co.
• Morris, Ciscoe. October 11, 2017. “Keep your hummingbirds happy…” The Seattle Times.
• Tallamy, Douglas W. 2019. “Nature’s Best Hope: A New Approach to Conservation That Starts in Your Yard”. Portland: Timber Press.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Joan D. Stamm has recently completed the requirements as a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener (EMG) Class of 2023. She is the author of several books, most recently The Language of Flowers in the Time of COVID: Finding Solace in Zen, Nature and Ikebana.

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Questions about home gardening or becoming a Master Gardener, may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: https://extension.wsu.edu/skagit/mg/

Sweet Creek Milepost 2 Fire, Oregon Department of Forestry

Wildfire Preparedness for Home Landscapes

Take these steps to reduce the risk of home loss in the case of wildfire.

By Marlene Finley

The recent wildfires in Hawaii make it clear again that few locales are immune from the devastating effects caused by wildfire. Despite Western Washington’s wet reputation, we also are not immune to wildfires, especially during drier years. Here in Skagit County, we also are facing moderate drought. (See https://www.drought.gov/states/Washington )

A recent climate impact study developed by the University of Washington’s Climate Impacts Group, reported that the temperature in Washington has increased 1.5° F over the last 20 years. This climate summary makes three dire predictions. First, historically unprecedented warming is projected throughout the century. Second, warming temperatures will lead to earlier melting of mountain snowpacks which are critical for spring and summer water supplies. In addition, more precipitation will be in the form of rain instead of snow, which could lead to flooding. Last, wildfires are predicted to occur more frequently and with greater severity during dry summer months. Warming temperatures are expected to cause additional forest mortality and long-term transformation of forested landscapes across the Northwest by increasing wildfire, insect outbreaks, tree diseases, and drought stress. (Source: University of Washington Climate Impacts Group)

As gardeners, we are keen observers, taking notice of the slightest changes in our gardens and surrounding natural areas.

We tend to be a curious lot and as a result, tend to be good problem solvers. Considering the trends and predictions, there are plant choices and gardening practices that will help keep our treasured landscapes resilient and thriving under the threat of wildfire and a changing climate.

Firewise landscaping is an array of practices promoted by the National Fire Protection Association (NPFA) and others to create a defensible space around your home that can slow a wildfire or discourage ignition. Vents, eaves, and gutters should be free of leaves or other debris, areas under decks should be clear of flammables, and plants growing near a home should be fire-wise, meaning a low probability of catching fire. Trees overhanging roofs can be problematic in the event of wildfire.

These are a few practices you can take to be prepared this fire season:

First, remove fire fuel wherever possible.
Clean your gutters of debris and make sure your roof is clear of leaves and moss. Many of the large, catastrophic fires in the West in recent years were fueled by warm, dry, and in many cases extreme wind, blowing hot embers as much as a mile in advance of the fireline. These embers catch fire in dry leaves in gutters and unscreened attic vents, eaves, and soffits. Install 1/8 inch metal mesh screening to block embers.

Never store flammable materials underneath elevated decks or porches (for example firewood) and clean dead vegetation from between deck boards and under the deck. Visit Firewise.org for more information. Skagit Conservation District schedules free, customized homeowner assistance on reducing the threat of wildfire, as well as providing helpful information specific to our area on their website.

Second, plant for moisture resilience.
Healthy plants tend to be more resilient to swings in temperature and moisture. Choosing plants to fit the specific conditions in your garden, considering soil, moisture, sun exposure, and otherwise gardening factors will help create a resilient garden.
Get the List and Let’s Talk Plants!
An excellent publication produced by Washington State University, Oregon State University, and the University of Idaho titled Fire Resistant Plants for the Home Landscapes. This free pdf download includes an extensive list of plants that tend to be less flammable. See the resources below.
Plants that include these characteristics are, in general, good choices for fire-wise gardens:
1. Higher moisture content in their leaves
2. Little build-up of dead vegetation
3. Resistance to drought
4. Low, compact growth form
5. Leaves that will not catch and hold embers

Consider groupings of plants and introduce more diversity of species or varieties to assure more vitality. A well-designed plant community tends to be more drought-tolerant and insulating to extreme changes. Native plants often make good choices. Both Skagit Conservation District and the Salal Chapter of the Washington Native Plant Society hold regular native plant sales and can advise you of good choices for resilient, fire-wise plants for your particular needs. During the Master Gardener plant sale in May, you’ll find recommended groupings of plants that grow well together, both aesthetically and ecologically.

In addition to choosing the right plant for the right place, watering plants during extended dry spells is critical. Even drought-resistant plants need water, especially in the first year or two after planting as roots become established. Drip irrigation systems that deliver just the right amount of water at the correct intervals help conserve water during dry months. See our recent blog post on DIY Drip Irrigation > https://www.skagitmg.org/diy-drip-irrigation/

Consider groupings of plants and introduce more diversity of species or varieties to assure more vitality. Photo courtesy of Marlene Finley

Native plants can provide aesthetic beauty as well as fire resistance. Photo courtesy of Marlene Finley
Third, create a defensible space.
Fire professionals often talk about maintaining a defensible space within 100 to 200 feet of your home. Within this area modify the landscaping to give your house the best chance to survive on its own. This will greatly improve the odds of success for firefighters who are defending your neighborhood. If your home is on a slope or subject to high winds, extend the area of this zone to whatever your fire department recommends. Separate shrubs (with spaces of at least 10 feet between clumps), limb up trees, and use hardscaping such as rock, stone pathways, and concrete to break up potential fire fuels.

Nearest to the home: hardscape, low growing, wet loving plants. Anything flammable (deck, connected wooden fence) will carry fire to the home structure. Illustration courtesy of Skagit Conservation District

Within 5 to 30 feet of the home use only individual trees or shrubs, keeping them well maintained and pruned up. Remove dead, dry leaves, needles, or branches, and do not place flammable mulch near the foundation.

Beyond using inflammable hardscape, groundcovers such as succulents and even a narrow band of turf grass can provide valuable protection. Keep grass near your home (both turf and natural meadows) watered, if possible, and mowed during fire season to no more than 4 inches. Check the list of fire-resistant recommended plants in the publication cited above for the best choices of plants and grass to grow from 0 to 30 feet from your foundation.

Pruning plants to reduce dead and dying limbs and leaves is critical. While no plants are completely fire resistant, chances of surviving and slowing the spread of fire are better when there is less flammable material on the ground and within plants and trees. You may wonder “Why remove dead leaves when we know they create habitat for beneficial insects and wildlife?” Removing flammables during fire season, within the ignition zone of your home will increase your chances for survival and keeping your home.

Removing ladder fuels (vegetation under trees) prevents fires from reaching the crowns of trees. Prune trees at least 6 to 10 feet from the ground; for shorter trees, do not trim more than 1/3 of the overall tree height. Trees overhanging roofs and structures can be problematic and should be trimmed back, in fact, there should be no trees and or shrubs within the first 0-5 feet of the foundation and few scattered trees or shrubs within 5 feet to 30 feet of the structure.

The University of Nevada Cooperative Extension conducted a study on the flammability of certain mulches.
What About Mulch?
Mulch helps to retain soil moisture over the summer and insulate in winter and can be used beyond 5 feet from the foundation. Do not use flammable mulches or groundcovers within 5 feet of your foundation. The University of Nevada Cooperative Extension conducted a study on the flammability of certain mulches.

While the University of Nevada study showed the best results for “composted” wood chips, WSU scientist Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott recommends using fresh arborist chips because valuable nutrients are lost during composting. https://gardenprofessors.com/making-your-landscape-fire-resistant-during-wildfire-season/

While the University of Nevada study showed the best results for “composted” wood chips, WSU scientist, Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott, recommends using fresh arborist chips because valuable nutrients are lost during composting. (Source: Making Your Landscape Fire Resistant During Wildfire Season, The Garden Professors 2009)

Key Take-Aways:

• Maintenance – clean gutters and roof, no flammables against house or under deck
• Prune out deadwood and debris, clean up pine needles, leaves, twigs
• Landscape according to Fire Ignition Zones: 5 feet, 30 feet, 100 feet
• Maintain defensible space and create fuel breaks
• No plants are completely fire-resistant. Healthy plants are fire safe
• Keep moisture in the soil during hot, dry spells with drip irrigation, permeable surfaces, groundcovers, compost, and mulch

The devastating effects of our warming climate are in the news daily. The large Canadian fires early in the season captured our attention. Following the recommendations regarding plants and garden practices can slow the effects of the changing climate as well as provide thriving, functioning landscapes that will persist through the immediate changes while slowing the spread of wildfire.

RESOURCES:

Curious and conscientious caretakers of backyards and natural areas can learn more at these various resources:

• Chalker-Scott, Linda. The Myth of Pretty Mulch in Horticultural Myths. Washington State University Extension. https://s3.wp.wsu.edu/uploads/sites/403/2015/03/bark-mulch.pdf
• Drought Conditions by state and county (new website from NOAA). https://www.drought.gov/states/Washington
• InciWeb provides up-to-date information on wildfires throughout the country. Research fire status in your area and check travel routes and destinations. https://inciweb.wildfire.gov/accessible-view
• Firewise: Learn more about reducing wildfire risks. https://www.nfpa.org/Public-Education/Fire-causes-and-risks/Wildfire/Firewise-USA
• Detweiler, Amy. Fitzgerald, Stephen. Fire-Resistant Plants for Home Landscapes. 2006 Oregon State University Extension, PNW 590. https://catalog.extension.oregonstate.edu/sites/catalog/files/project/pdf/pnw590.pdf
• The Garden Professors website is a great resource for gardening including climate wise and fire wise landscaping.
  https://gardenprofessors.com/making-your-landscape-fire-resistant-during-wildfire-season/
• Skagit Conservation District. Free, at home consultations on reducing wildfire risk. https://www.skagitcd.org/wild-fire
• University of Washington Climate Impacts Group. https://cig.uw.edu/our-work/forests-fire/

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Marlene Finley, is a former wildland firefighter, retired forest manager and currently active Skagit County Master Gardener.

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Questions about home gardening or becoming a Master Gardener may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Understanding the Difference Between USDA Zones and Microclimates

Identifying your specific zone and the unique microclimates within your garden will help your plants thrive.

By Claudia Wells, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Having a great looking yard seems like it should be simple enough. Look at the plant tag and it will tell you the USDA zones where it is best suited. You find the correct USDA plant zone for your home and buy the appropriate shrubs and flowers. However, have you done your due diligence and bought plants according to your zone? In Anacortes, and parts of Mount Vernon the zones are 8b and 8a, and in Sedro-Woolley, the USDA zone is 8a. The division of zones into a and b is done in 5-degree Fahrenheit increments. Zone 8b means that the average minimum winter temperature is 15-20°F. Use https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/ to find your USDA zone.

If you place plants in USDA zones that are not compatible with the plant tag recommendation, you may over time watch them fail to thrive despite your best efforts. There are several reasons why your plant may be struggling but perhaps the most common one is that it was in the wrong microclimate in your yard. Yes, everyone’s yard has multiple microclimates.

A south-facing wall with full sun creates a perfect microclimate for this climbing rose to thrive. There are also two clematis growing on this wall. Photo by Nancy Crowell

What in the world, you say, creates microclimates, and why is knowing about them so important? First, remember, when a plant struggles to survive, it is more susceptible to disease and pests.

The USDA zone map is based on an area’s average low and high temperatures over a long period of time, about 30 years. A microclimate, however, is a local set of atmospheric conditions that differ from those in the surrounding areas-sometimes the difference is slight, and in other instances, the conditions can differ significantly.

The term microclimate may refer to a very small area in your garden or as large as a low-lying valley. Or a shaded area in an otherwise full-sun environment. Microclimates are created by a combination of any of the following:

• Air flow stagnant or windy
• Slope of the ground
• At the top or bottom of a grade
• Close to water
• Soil is either too sandy or too much clay, so the drainage is affected
• Soil temperature varies within a garden
• Elevation within a garden
• Hardscape

It may be an area where the airflow is stagnant might lead to the growth of moss, especially on the north side of a building. Or a windy area tends to dry out plants quicker than surrounding areas and may cause damage to the foliage itself.

Another contributing factor to a different microclimate is the slope or aspect of an area. In the northern hemisphere, south-facing aspects are exposed to more direct sunlight than opposite slopes. This leads to warmer temperatures for longer periods of time, giving the slope a warmer microclimate, than the areas around it. This applies to any small slope you have in your own yard. At the lowest spots in your yard, nighttime condensation may freeze, creating a “cold sink” where a drying breeze may not reach the lowest area; humidity lingers and precipitates, then freezes. Another phenomenon is called a “rain shadow” that occurs on the downhill side of a mountain where less rain falls. This might apply to a slope in your own yard, so a drier microclimate might even exist behind a very large rock.

Spring advances one day later for every 100 feet of elevation. This doesn’t seem like much until you consider areas like Concrete that has a wide range of elevation. This difference may even be noticeable at the top of a grade. The neighbor down the hill probably has flowers blooming earlier than you do which is caused by the difference in microclimates. In some areas, like Chuckanut, if the elevation is close to 1000 feet, then spring would be 9 days later than at 100 feet of elevation as in Mount Vernon.

Master Gardener Anne Hays found her entry was heavily shaded except for June and July when the sun sets to the far North. Photo by Anne Hays

When Gail Beasley moved to Anacortes, she created a garden by adapting to the extreme weather conditions found on the west side of Fidalgo Island. She found plants that thrive in the cool marine air and hot afternoons… as well as those that are deer resistant. Photo by Gail Beasley

Large bodies of water create microclimates depending on the distance to the property. Water has a moderating effect on temperature so the closer you are the warmer it might be. The Pacific Ocean keeps the Puget Sound in warmer zones than nearby inland areas.

Here in the Puget Sound area, our soil may be compacted because of the use of heavy equipment. Soil compaction and/or high-water table result in puddles that don’t dry up when the rest of the yard is dry, meaning that the drainage is poor in that area. It’s important to know about the drainage in your garden. Any good gardening book will explain the procedures to check for soil drainage.

Determining soil temperature is important to find the hottest, or coldest, spots in your garden. Simply place a garden thermometer in the ground about 2 inches deep for roughly 3 minutes. Do this in several different areas of your garden and you may be surprised where that hot spot may be found. In an urban area, tall buildings create their own microclimate, both by overshadowing large areas and by channeling strong winds to ground level. All the concrete leads to higher temperatures as well. It is important to assess where you might have larger rocks, white walls of a building, concrete, and anything else that would be considered a “hardscape” as they will all raise nearby temperatures.

Master Gardeners in Skagit County deal with a wide range of microclimates within their own personal gardens. Here Master Gardener Lynn Heagney deals with the shade produced by the woods surrounding her home east of Sedro-Woolley. Photo by Lynn Heagney

If you want to grow a plant that is slightly out of your USDA garden zone then it is important to take into consideration the factors listed above. A moist, mostly shady microclimate is a perfect location for ferns and shade-loving plants to thrive. In the same environment, sun-loving plants like most perennials (referring here to flower-producing plants that last year after year) would do poorly given the lack of sunlight.

To discover where the most sun and shade are located, make a map of your garden three times on the same day at 9 a.m., 12 p.m., and 3 p.m. Create this sun/shade map at the beginning, middle, and end of the growing season. This will be a good indicator of where the shady plants will thrive and where the sun-loving plants will be happy. Also note any drainage problems, prevailing winds, protected spots, and problem areas on your map. Make your map as detailed as possible to help for future reference.

If a windbreak is too dense, like a solid fence or wall, the wind will be completely blocked causing increased turbulence on top just as it does around tall, narrow houses. Also consider brick, concrete, and asphalt that absorb the sun’s energy, then heat up and re-radiate that heat to the ambient air resulting in a warmer microclimate.

A warmer microclimate can offer an opportunity as a small growing region for plants that won’t survive in other areas of your yard. As a gardener, you will succeed when you carefully choose and position your plants according to the microclimates that exist in your own yard.

RESOURCES:

• “Microclimate” Cornell Small Farms Program. Cornell University. 2019.
• Chen J, Saunders S, Crow T, Naiman R, Brosofske K, Mroz G, Brookshire B, Franklin J. 1999. Microclimate in Forest Ecosystem and Landscape Ecology. Bioscience. Vol. 49 no. 4.: p. 288-297. (1999) USDA Forest Service https://www.fs.usda.gov/research/treesearch/12055
• Camus, John. 2017. 6 Examples of an Urban Microclimate. Sotoga Sustainability Guide. Nov. 12, 2017.
• https://sotoga.com/en/urban-microclimate

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Claudia Wells has been a Master Gardener since 1983. She has taught Master Gardener trainees about Microclimates along with other topics during the annual Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener training.

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Questions about home gardening or becoming a Master Gardener may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Drip Irrigation – Design, Installation and Maintenance

With a little work up front, you’ll save time and money while preserving one of our most precious natural resources

By Bob Bryan, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Master Gardener program priorities help us navigate between horticulture, our natural resources and community needs. As trained volunteers, we are constantly learning the latest in research-based practices to advise homeowners how to maintain gardens and sustainable landscapes. Drip irrigation is a method of slowly delivering water to all types of plantings-from planters to gardens to greenhouses.

Drip irrigation is not new. In Germany in the 1920s farmers used perforated pipes to irrigate plants. Simcha Blass in Israel developed the first experimental drip irrigation system in 1959 and formed the first drip irrigation company, Netafim, in 1965. Drip irrigation places a precise amount of water where you need it, prevents overwatering, conserves water, saves money, and keeps water off foliage, reducing disease. It eliminates hours of hand watering, can be fully automated with a timer, and reduces weeding time. Drip systems can be applied to gardens, vineyards, greenhouses, row crops, window planters, deck and patio pots, existing landscapes, hillsides, or flat terrain, and is long lasting and adaptable.

A simple irrigation system that many turn to when they first transition from hand watering or overhead watering with sprinklers or spray heads is a soaker hose. Soaker hoses are made from 70% recycled rubber and 30% recycled polyethylene products. They can be bought in 25-ft, 50-ft, and 100-ft lengths. The disadvantage of soaker hoses is that they deteriorate over a few years, and they do not emit water uniformly along their length. More water is distributed at the end closer to the source. As you reach the end, less water is available for the plants. One can get the best performance from a soaker hose by using a timer, a filter, and a pressure reducer and operating it at no higher pressure than 10 psi.

Pressure compensating shrubbler watering Japanese Garden at the Discovery Garden on Hwy 536 West of Mount Vernon

1/2-in. dripline with manual timer, filter and pressure reducer for watering a tree.

Step 1: Identify the Water Source

The first step in designing a drip irrigation system is to identify the source of water and point of connection (POC).

• Will you use a hose bibb attached to the house water circuit or a frost-proof hydrant out in the yard?
• Do you plan to use gravity fed water from a cistern or water tank?
• Will you pump water from a lake or creek?

Once identified, you need to measure the flow available from the POC. Think of a drip irrigation system as a collection of emitters. Emitters allow water to flow out at specified gallons per hour (GPH). Common emitters allow 1 GPH or 2 GPH flow. The flow of water available from the POC must be capable of providing enough water to satisfy all the emitters. If you plan to have more emitters than your available flow can provide, you must divide your system into zones and then operate one zone at a time.

Identify Your Flow Rate

Measure your flow rate by placing a 5-gallon bucket beneath the POC, open the valve completely, and time the number of seconds it takes to fill the container. Then the gallons per minute (GPM) = (60 seconds per minute/number of seconds to fill) x (number of gallons).

Drip system components. Composite photos courtesy of Dripworks.

Step Two: Identify Areas you Want to Water

The second step is to decide what areas you want to water. Make a sketch. Take some measurements. This will help you determine the amount of mainline and number of branch lines you need. Mainlines are ½”, ¾”, or 1″ polypropylene, usually black. Branch lines are usually ½”.

The Parts of a Drip Irrigation System

A drip irrigation system consists of the following parts connected in this order: POC, timer, filter, pressure regulator, mainline, branch lines, end cap.

Several companies make drip irrigation parts. Parts from Hunter, Rainbird, Raindrip, Netafim and Jain can be found at big box stores, hardware stores, or landscape suppliers like Ewing Irrigation & Landscape Supply in Burlington and online like Dripworks.

All suppliers provide similar products. A note of caution: Rainbird ½” mainline is slightly smaller than Dripworks ½” mainline. Rainbird ½” polypropylene is 0.500″ inside diameter; Dripworks ½” polypropylene is 0.600″ inside diameter. Rainbird ½” mainline will not fit on Dripworks barbs in their Easy Loc fittings. Dripworks offers a reducing coupler that allows one to extend a Rainbird system to a Dripworks system. When starting from scratch, it makes sense to decide on one supplier to build your system. Both Dripworks and Rainbird products are of equal quality and diversity. I have built systems with Dripworks parts and will describe them going forward, but Rainbird parts could be substituted.

A 1/2″ mainline with multiple repairs illustrating the result of burying drip lines under mulch. Such hidden lines are invariably severed by weeding activity. © Bob Bryan

Illustration of a 3/4″ mainline with an Easy Loc “T” connected to a 1/2″ drip line through a control valve.
Photo by © Robert Bryan

Timers: A timer allows you to go on vacation knowing that your landscape and patio plants are going to be watered appropriately. Timers are wind-up, battery-powered, AC powered or solar powered. They handle one zone (wind-up) or up to 12 zones. All powered timers offer similar functions. When first powered up, you set the current time and day of the week. Next you choose which zone you are setting up (for multi-zone timers). Then, for each zone, you set the duration, days to irrigate, and a start time for each irrigation (up to four start times). Multiple start times are useful for high volume watering using shrubblers, micro-jets, mini-sprinklers, or sprayers. These devices are designed to cover areas not specific plants and can lead to run-off. You can avoid run-off by watering for multiple short intervals. Galcon LCD timers have worked well for my needs.

The type of soil in your garden will determine the irrigation schedule and emitter choice. Clay soil holds more water, is slow to absorb water, and is slow to release water. For this type of soil use 0.5 GPH emitters spaced farther apart. Loam, which is the optimal soil type, is very porous and retains moisture. Use 0.5 – 1 GPH emitters. Sandy soils are extremely porous and allow quick water flow. Use 1 – 2 GPH emitters closely spaced and water more frequently for shorter periods.

Filters: Because drip irrigation emitters contain very small channels, they are susceptible to clogging. It’s important to always include a filter after the timer. Garden filters come with hose threads or pipe threads. Screen filters remove sediment and debris that can clog a drip system. Filters are rated by filtering capability. The common terms used are mesh, the number of wires per inch and micron, the maximum particle size that can pass through the screen. Home garden screen filters are commonly used for small to medium size irrigation systems with a relatively clean water supply. Common mesh sizes are 50, 100, 150, and 200. I use Irritec hose thread Y filters with 200 mesh.

Most municipal water systems supply water at 40 – 60 psi. This is too high for drip irrigation systems. Pressure regulators come with hose threads or pipe threads. Senninger Garden Regulators are ideal for low-volume drip systems. They will regulate pressure from 10 psi to 40 psi. I use 30 psi regulators in my gardens.

In the old days (back in the 1970s) I assembled drip systems using Raindrip compression fittings. These could be bought at hardware stores or nursery centers. They come in straight couplers, elbows, tees, and hose starts. They are black plastic cylinders with compression elements at the open ends. You push the ½” polypropylene tubing into the open end wiggling it around and jacking it back and forth to force it into the fitting. Once in, it doesn’t leak. But like the Hotel California, once you check in, you can never leave. One day I was watching farm hands installing a field for strawberries near where I lived then in Carlsbad, CA. The tractor and implement produced flat-topped raised beds across the field. Then the workers laid down T-tape (also called drip tape). Then they covered the raised beds with black plastic. They made slits in the plastic and planted strawberry plants in the raise beds. The drip irrigation system was in situ. Dripworks carries the latest generation of tape technology from Toro called Aqua-Traxx drip tape. The emitters are spaced at 4″, 6″, 8″ and 12″ centers. This can be used in home gardens, but it is really meant for large commercial farms. Discovering T-tape led me to a local store that sold irrigation supplies and introduced me to a new type of drip irrigation.

Illustrating a Manifold Swivel System with, from the bottom, a female hose x 3/4″ female pipe adapter, a 3/4″ Standard Amiad Filter, a Senninger Limit Valve (40 PSI), various Manifold Swivel parts, two 3/4″ Galcon Battery Valves, a 3/4″ Female Easy Loc hose start, a 1/2″ Female Easy Loc hose start, and a 4 Station Galcon Battery Timer. Photo by © Robert Bryan

This image shows the manifold system described in the last photo connected to a frost-proof yard hydrant by a high pressure hose. © Photo Robert Bryan

Step Three: Assembly

Back to our drip system design: the common way to start a system is to use a female hose start with swivel. Fittings to build a drip irrigation system are ½”, ¾” and 1″ Easy Loc fittings. The female hose start has a female hose swivel on one end and a locking barb on the other. Attach the female hose start to the regulator’s male threads. Work the end of the polypropylene tubing over the barb and tighten up the locking collar. To take the tubing off, loosen the locking collar and pull the tubing off the barb. All Easy Loc Fittings (a Dripworks product) work this way. When working with these fittings in the cold, it helps to keep a tube of food-grade lubricant such as Lubrifilm to lubricate the barb. Cut the polypropylene tubing with pruning shears. Continue to build out your system with couplers, tees, elbows, inline valves, and male hose end with caps for closing lines. Vendor websites have many plans for gardens of many types. They often include a helpful list of materials (because they want you to buy supplies from them). Perusing these plans will give you ideas for your garden.

Extra Tips:

If you have a long garden bed along the fence or the sidewalk, and want to irrigate the shrubs there, run a ½” mainline down the center. Install the timer, filter, pressure regulator and female hose start at the hose bibb at the house. Dig a narrow trench across the lawn, put ¾” Sch 40 PVC pipe in the trench and run the ½” polypropylene through the PVC. The PVC will protect the drip mainline from being cut by digging and weeding. Easy Loc 90° elbows put the mainline down in the trench, then bring it up in the garden bed. With the mainline in place and closed at the end with a male hose end, punch holes in the mainline with a specialty hole punch. Insert ¼” transfer barbs into the holes. If the shrubs are medium size, you can irrigate with a loop of ¼” soaker dripline. Attach the dripline to the transfer barb and close the end with a goof plug (a plug with different-sized barbs used to repair small or large holes in mainline tubing). If the shrub is small bring some ¼” polyethylene micro tubing to the plant from a transfer barb. Connect it to a Cobra Stake drip emitter (available in ½, 1, or 2 GPH).

Winterizing: Timers, filters and pressure regulators can be damaged by hard freezes. Remove the end caps off of the mainlines and drain the system. Re-install the end caps to keep out insects. Store the timers, filters, and pressure regulators indoors over winter. Remove batteries from the timers.

Setting up a drip irrigation system takes a bit of time and ingenuity, but is well worth the benefits you’ll reap as you save money and time, and have a garden full of thriving plants.

The products described and the opinions expressed above are those of the author and not meant as an endorsement. Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners do not endorse any companies or commercial products.

Pressure compensating scrubber watering rose bush at the Discovery Garden. © Photo Ginny Bode

1/2-in. dripline water system with emitters at 12-in. spacing. The system is set up to water young raspberry plants in the small fruits garden at the Discovery Garden.
Photo by © Ginny Bode

RESOURCES:

Learn more about setting up a drip irrigation system in the Pacific Northwest through these online sources:

https://foodsystems.wsu.edu/crops/irrigation/

https://pubs.extension.wsu.edu/drip-irrigation-for-the-yard-and-garden

https://depts.washington.edu/hortlib/pal/drip_irrigation/

http://irrigation.wsu.edu/Content/Calculators/Drip/Drip-Line-Rate.php

https://pubs.extension.wsu.edu/drought-advisory-water-conservation-in-gardens-and-landscapes

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Bob Bryan has been a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener (EMG) since 2009. He has taught the art of drip irrigation in the Know and Grow education seminars offered by Master Gardeners.

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Questions about home gardening or becoming a Master Gardener may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Statewide WSU Extension Master Gardener Program Celebrates 50 Years

Cultivating Plants, People, and Communities Since 1973

By Deborah Smeltzer, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

2023 marks the 50^th Anniversary of the WSU Extension Master Gardener (EMG) Program in Washington state, the first in the United States. The program began in 1973 in Pierce and King counties with the first class of more than 300 Master Gardener students. Snohomish and Spokane counties followed with their first classes in 1974. Skagit County had its first WSU Extension Master Gardener volunteer in 1977. Now 50 years later in 2023, the Extension Master Gardener Program in Washington has more than 4,000 volunteers and the U.S. has more than 100,000 volunteers. The program has also spread to eight provinces in Canada.

The WSU Extension Master Gardener Program originated as a result of the green revolution that exploded in the U.S. in the 1970s. Extension agents at land grant colleges, those charged with the mission of supporting farmers with research about agricultural practices and production needs, were overwhelmed with the influx of questions from home gardeners about plants and plant problems. Two extension agents in King and Pierce counties, David Gibby and Bill Scheer, assigned to support both home gardeners and commercial horticulture producers, came up with the idea to train volunteers to support home gardeners via plant clinics and educational activities. They would teach the volunteers to be community educators to help home gardeners with their questions about plants, cultural practices, and problems from pests and diseases.

Gibby and Scheer organized the first plant clinic at the Tacoma Mall in 1972 and dubbed the project the “Master Gardener Program,” named in recognition of the highly trained horticulturists called “Gartenmeisters” that Gibby had encountered in Germany. Also in 1972, Steve Lorton, then editor at Sunset Magazine, wrote an article to help recruit volunteers to be trained as plant diagnosticians. The rest is history (see https://mastergardener.wsu.edu/who-we-are/50-years/ ).

Local news media interview King and Pearce County extension agents David Gibby and Bill Scheer about their new program to train volunteers, who would then extend that knowledge to the public.

Sunset Magazine (1972) ran an article recruiting Master Gardeners for the WSU Extension program

Extension staff answering questions at 1973 plant clinic at the Tacoma Mall.

Under the leadership of WSU EMG Statewide Program Leader Jennifer Marquis, plans for the 50^th Anniversary Celebration (see: https://mastergardener.wsu.edu/who-we-are/50-years/) have been underway since July 2021. A group of five Master Gardeners from across the state have guided the planning for four regional events and a commemorative magazine. In Skagit County, Master Gardeners Deborah Smeltzer and Lin Hoisington have worked extensively on the state-wide project.

The communications team of WSU College of Agricultural, Human, and Natural Resource Sciences (CAHNRS) developed an extensive media toolkit for volunteer use along with three videos (past, present, and future of the program) that have been rolled out this spring and summer.

The videos have great drone video coverage of the Skagit County Discovery Garden (located at WSU NWREC in Mount Vernon) and Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners at work. A fourth composite 50^th Anniversary video will be presented at the annual Master Gardeners’ Advanced Education Conference in September.

Jennifer Marquis presenting at Puyallup 50th Anniversary event on April 8, 2023
Photo by Deborah Smeltzer

50th Anniversary Commemorative Magazines will be on sale during the Open House

A special initiative of the 50^th Anniversary planning has been the launch of a 5-year campaign to raise $1.5 million to support the establishment of the first-ever, fully dedicated WSU Extension Master Gardener Program Endowed Faculty Chair. The WSU College of Agricultural, Human, and Natural Resource Sciences development team is leading the fundraising effort. The endowed chair campaign was a key focus of the one-day CougsGive fundraiser in April 2023. By early June, more than $71,000 had been contributed to the campaign. The Master Gardener Foundation of Washington State (MGFWS) has also committed funds to this campaign.

The second regional celebration was held on May 20^th in Prosser. At this event, Jennifer Marquis announced a challenge match of $15,000 provided by Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Deborah Smeltzer and her husband, David Kingsbury. Deborah and David are matching dollar-for-dollar up to $15,000 any contributions to the endowed Master Gardener chair campaign in the form of cash or pledge donations through September 2023. They strongly support the mission of the endowed Master Gardener faculty chair to:

• Teach Master Gardeners cutting-edge horticulture and environmental stewardship in perpetuity
• Create tools that support volunteer outreach such as publications and fact sheets
• Partner and collaborate with like-minded organizations to leverage program strengths
• Build robust curricula that addresses difficult societal challenges

This endowment will be a game changer to provide key resources to Master Gardeners in perpetuity and to help home gardeners benefit from plant clinics, lectures, demonstration gardens, and many other educational activities in horticulture and environmental stewardship that Master Gardeners provide. Donations to this campaign by both Master Gardeners and home gardeners will help demonstrate the value of a dedicated Master Gardener faculty chair to Skagit County and the entire state of Washington. Please consider joining Deborah and David to help support the campaign during this important 50^th Anniversary year. It would be a great accomplishment to push the WSU EMG Program endowed faculty chair campaign beyond $100,000 before the state-wide Advanced Education Conference to be held in September.

Join us for the regional 50th Anniversary Celebration
Thursday, July 13, 2023
WSU Northwestern Washington Research and Extension Center
16650 State Route 536, Mount Vernon

Watch this website to register for the regional 50^th Anniversary Celebration held in Mount Vernon at the WSU Northwestern Washington Research and Extension Center on Thursday, July 13, 2023. Co-hosted by Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners and WSU NWREC, event registration is open to the public. Master Gardeners in neighboring Clallam, Island, Jefferson, King, San Juan, and Whatcom Counties are all invited to participate. Beginning at 10 a.m. in the Sakuma Auditorium, the free event will include a short program featuring special guests including WSU Associate Dean and Director of Extension Vicki McCracken.

The event continues through noon with an open house at WSU NWREC and the three onsite demonstration gardens. Each participating county as well as the statewide Extension Master Gardener program and the endowment team will have tables/canopies set-up to share their work. Commemorative Magazines celebrating the 50^th anniversary will be sold at the event.

A key part of the celebration is the opportunity to visit the three gardens adjacent to WSU NWREC; the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Discovery Garden, the Salal Native Plant Society (NPS) Garden, and the Western Washington Fruit Research Foundation (NW Fruit) Garden. These three gardens are a vivid and moving display of both native and climate appropriate plants providing new and experienced gardeners inspiration and evolving ideas about sustainable gardening practices.

The theme of this 50^th Anniversary celebration is partnering between WSU Extension Master Gardeners, WSU faculty and staff, and community partners. Together we can support Healthy People and a Healthy Planet. Please come help us celebrate!

RESOURCES:

WSU Extension Master Gardener 50^th Anniversary Edition (commemorative magazine, published April 2023)

WSU EMG Program Statewide website – https://mastergardener.wsu.edu/

Skagit County Master Gardener Foundation website – https://www.skagitmg.org/

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Deborah Smeltzer has been a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener (EMG) since 2012. She currently serves as president-elect of the Skagit County Master Gardener Foundation board and as chair of the Skagit County WSU EMG Program Training Team. In 2020, Deborah was named Washington State Master Gardener of the Year by the Master Gardener Foundation of Washington State.

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Questions about home gardening or becoming a Master Gardener may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Discover the Skagit Valley Display Gardens Open House

Discover the Discovery Garden, NW Fruit Garden, and the Salal Native Plant Garden

By Janine Wentworth, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

June is the beginning of summer blooming, fruit and vegetable growth and early harvests.

Enjoy the summer gardens of Skagit Valley at the Discover the Display Gardens Open House. Skagit Valley is home to 8 acres of display gardens operated by volunteers as a learning resource for the public.

Discover the Display Gardens
Open House

June 24, 2023 · 10 am – 2 pm

Free Admission

• Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Discovery Garden
• Western Washington Fruit Research Foundation
• Salal Native Plant Garden

All three are nestled together in the green fields of the WSU Northwestern Washington Research and Extension Center west of Mount Vernon on HWY 536 (Memorial Hwy.)

While all three of these gardens are open to the public daily, the Annual Open House is focused on educating and inspiring visitors interested in many specific areas of interest, including pollination, water-wise gardening, native plants and raising fruits and vegetables in the Skagit area.

The Discovery Garden
Designed to support Skagit home gardeners by promoting science-based gardening practices, Skagit area WSU Extension Master Gardeners have created 30 garden rooms within the garden, featuring hundreds of plants chosen to flourish in Skagit Valley. Come and spend time with the volunteers who maintain the gardens and learn more about what they grow.

In addition to tours of the garden rooms, Master Gardeners will be on hand offering activities for all ages including:

• Free garden tool sharpening
• Solutions to plant problems
• Plant identification– to help you know what you have
• Expert advice on weed identification and management

While at the Discovery Garden, visit the small fruits garden and learn more about food you can grow in your own back yard. Photo © Nancy Crowell Photography

Visit the learning station near the pond in the Naturescape Garden. There you will see Koi fish and learn about pond maintenance and construction as well as drip irrigation.

Bring a blanket and picnic lunch and enjoy the day at the Discovery Garden. Photo © Nancy Crowell Photography

Learn about effective gardening at the 8 education stations located throughout the garden area. Master Gardeners will offer instruction on topics such as:

• Developing healthy soil
• Composting
• Pollinator support
• Fruit tree pruning and thinning
• Gardening with native plants
• Weed identification: Match examples of common weeds with their names so you can learn how to identify them and control them
• Clean water and water conservation: Visit the learning station near the pond in the Naturescape Garden. There you will see Koi fish and learn about pond maintenance and construction as well as drip irrigation

Pollinators: Learn about plants that support pollinators from Master Gardeners who plant and care for the pollinator gardens and the pollinators that live in the garden. The pollinator station at the Open House will teach ways to help native bees and other pollinators thrive in home and community landscapes because pollination is an essential survival function.

Local Food: The Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners offer extensive resources for local gardeners. During the Open House, Master Gardeners will be giving talks on healthy soils, growing your own vegetables, and weed identification and eradication. The Grow Your Own Food page at https://www.skagitmg.org/home/resources/food/ is also an excellent resource for gardeners getting started.

While at the Discovery Garden, visit the Vegetable, Small Fruits, and Doc’s Arbor garden rooms for ideas and examples of food-producing plants that grow well in the Skagit County area.

Educators from the Xerex Society will be at the Open House demonstrating techniques for making your garden pollinator friendly

Learn smarter vegetable gardening tips from the Master Gardeners who have research and tested a variety techniques that face gardeners in the North Puget Sound area.

Throughout the growing season, garden waste is sorted, chopped, and chipped– the browns and greens are com­bined and turned, giving us nutrient-rich compost in a few months.

Composting: Curious about how to get started composting? Composting reduces waste and provides an inexpensive treatment for home gardens and landscapes. Healthy soil is essential to have healthy plants. Come talk to our soil experts and learn about your soil and what you can do to improve it.

Growing the Discovery Gardens since 1996
In 1994, the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners had a vision for a garden that would demonstrate best practices for gardening in the Skagit area. After two years of planning, the garden’s first structure of trees and fences was placed in the fall of 1996. Over the following two years, many committed WSU Extension Master Gardeners, along with the help of the community, planted the gardens.

The WSU Master Gardener Program addresses important sociologic and environmental issues by teaching research-based horticulture information. We want people to have important skills and abilities that help mitigate challenges and to understand that everyone has a role to play in creating and sustaining healthy and resilient communities.

Salal Native Plant Garden
The second garden participating in the Tri-Garden Open House is the Salal Native Plant Garden. Bordering the Discovery Garden to the south, the Salal Native Plant Garden is entered by walking through the Discovery Garden following the paths to the south. This labor of love and concern for native plants is manifested in an extensive and charming display garden.

Created twenty-five years ago as a collaborative effort between volunteers of the Salal Chapter of the Washington Native Plant Society and the Washington State University Agriculture Extension Agency at Mount Vernon (WSU), the Native Plant Garden is now a half-acre oasis that holds the seeds for the future of native plants in the lower Skagit Valley. The garden is a terrific resource for homeowners who want to learn how to incorporate more native plants into their landscaping.

Western Washington Fruit Research Foundation (NW Fruit)
The third garden on display is the fruit garden known as the Western Washington Fruit Research Foundation (or NWFruit.org). Here volunteers will answer questions about fruit trees. The 6-acre garden was designed and constructed by volunteers of the foundation and contains large informational signs and handouts based on the research conducted by Washington State University.

During the Open House volunteers will be on hand to explain examples of netting for bird control, a Tatura trellis, and answer questions about the expansive espalier display.

The fruit garden contains a large collection of fruiting plants with many unique varieties, including a collection of 17 variations of Gravenstein apples, a collection of antique apples from all over the world, and unusual fruits such as medlar and blue honeyberry. Located on the west side of the Discovery Garden the fruit garden is open to the public seven days a week from dawn to dusk.

Please join us for the Open House festivities on June 24, 2023 from 10 am – 2 pm. You are welcome to bring a blanket and picnic lunch and enjoy the day with family and friends.

The gardens are open and free to the public throughout the year, 7 days a week from dawn to dusk. Visit the gardens throughout the seasons to view the seasonal changes. Signage in each garden identifies plants and makes for interesting and educational self-guided tours.

RESOURCES:

• Discover the Display Gardens website
• Learn about Master Gardener program priorities: https://mastergardener.wsu.edu/priorities/
• Interested in Composting and Vermacomposting? See our recent blog article at: https://www.skagitmg.org/vermicomposting/
• Get started growing your own food: https://www.skagitmg.org/home/resources/food/

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Janine Wentworth became a master gardener in 2018. She and Kay Torrance are co-chairs of the Discovery Garden Open House.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Italian Arum: Beautiful, Poisonous and Invasive

Don’t Be Deceived by This Beautiful Ground Cover

By Valerie Rose, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

What a deceptive plant! First of all, Italian Arum (Arum italicum) is not strictly Italian. Native to Asia, Europe, and North Africa, some botanical resources say it’s also found in southern Europe. Other common names include Cuckoo’s Pint, Italian Lily, and Orange Candle Flower. While many of these names point to Italy as the source of this problematic plant, its roots appear much more widespread.

Italian Arum is also deceptively attractive. The bright orange berries brought color to an otherwise nondescript area of the yard, so I let it grow. Now I wish it had never found my address. It now appears in most of my garden beds, even in the lawn, where it has made friends with the equally intrusive buttercups. They’re conspiring to take over the whole yard, and I struggle to keep them at bay. We gardeners are seriously outnumbered.

My yard is not alone. In addition to being a pest in Skagit County, the plants are found between 10 and 100 acres in Whatcom, King, Skamania, and Clark Counties. More acres have been infested since that figure was published in 2018 by the Washington State Department of Agriculture (WSDA.) Italian Arum is also invading forest understories and wetlands, forming dense infestations, and crowding out native plants.

Because it is so invasive and poisonous to humans and animals, the WSDA classifies it as a Class C Noxious Weed. The WSDA describes Class C Noxious weeds as those “… already widespread in Washington. In some cases, counties may require property owners to control Class C weeds, but more often counties simply try to educate residents about why controlling them is a good idea.”

What about Class A and B weeds? The WSDA describes these categories:

“Class A Noxious Weeds are non-native species whose distribution in Washington state is still limited. Eradicating existing infestations and preventing new infestations are the highest priority. Eradication of all Class A plants is required by law.”

Arrowhead-shaped leaves can be all green or have cream-colored or silver-gray veins, purple splotches, or speckles. © Washington State Noxious Weed Control Board

Thick underground tubers store much of the plant’s energy and water underground, which is why the tops regrow so easily when cut or mowed. © Washington State Noxious Weed Control Board

Class B noxious weeds are nonnative species whose distribution is limited to portions of Washington state but may be widespread in other parts. Class B noxious weeds are designated for mandatory control in regions where they are not yet widespread.”

Like many invasive plants, Italian Arum likely escaped from someone’s garden. Originally planted as an ornamental ground cover, it certainly does cover ground. The first documented site in Washington state was on San Juan Island in 2002. This (ob)noxious weed is currently invading the west coast of the US and lower mainland British Columbia and across the mid-Atlantic states.

Not only is this plant invasive, but it also contains calcium oxalates, poisonous to humans and animals. According to the North Carolina Extension Gardener Toolbox, the calcium oxalates, if ingested “…will cause throat and tongue swelling that will result in difficulty breathing or possible death.” Simple skin contact can cause mild to severe irritation. Always protect your skin when attempting to remove Italian Arum.

Unfortunately, the plant tolerates most soil types, is drought tolerant once established, and thrives in partial shade to full sun. Like many undesired plants, it has more than one reproductive strategy. It grows from both tubers and berries, reaching 12 – 18 inches tall. The arrow-shaped leaves appear in early autumn, with hood-like flowers blooming in April and May: their acrid odor attracts flies as pollinators. When the foliage withers, stalks emerge, eventually covered in clusters of berries. The plump berries are initially green, changing to a vivid orange-red. This dramatic show continues through August, giving birds plenty of time to snack on the berries, and then deposit the seeds around your yard and beyond – conveniently coated with fertilizer.

Once established, Italian Arum is maddeningly difficult to get rid of. According to the North Carolina Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox, “There are no effective ways to control the plant, and it is unresponsive to herbicides. Manual removal is difficult. If removed, all parts of the plant should be placed in the trash and not your compost bin.”

Spreading by both roots and seeds, Italian arum rapidly forms colonies. © Washington State Noxious Weed Control Board

Spread by both tubers and seeds, Italian arum multiplies quickly, creating new plants. © Washington State Noxious Weed Control Board

2-acre infestation on Lopez Island actually worsened after it was repeatedly mowed, dug, torched (in winter), and then covered with a heavy tarp. © Washington State Noxious Weed Control Board

An Oregon State University Extension’s Ask An Expert webpage offers this: “Some suggest success by pouring boiling water on the plant’s roots. If using vinegar, a 20% vinegar solution is best. This type of vinegar, sometimes called horticultural vinegar, can be found at garden centers, farm stores, or online. Wear gloves and protective clothing to protect your skin from possible irritation. Follow-up work will be required to control any plants that develop from missed plant parts.” I will explore this strategy, as my annual ritual of carefully digging the roots and bulbs has not eliminated this invasion.

Don’t let the pretty leaves or colorful berries fool you into letting Italian Arum take root in your yard. And tell your friends and neighbors not to allow Italian Arum to charm its way into their gardens.

RESOURCES:

• Washington State Noxious Weed Control Board
  https://www.nwcb.wa.gov/weeds/italian-arum
• https://www.skagitcounty.net/Departments/NoxiousWeeds/weedlist.htm
• North Carolina Extension Gardener/Plant Toolbox
  https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/arum-italicum/
• https://cms.agr.wa.gov/getmedia/8e970f5e-72b0-4dcc-99d5-a1c9aad48ef7/ItalianArum.pdf
  Italian Arum Distribution, 2018, Washington State Department of Agriculture
• Clackamas County Weed Wise
  https://weedwise.conservationdistrict.org/arit-2
• Oregon State University Extension, Ask An Expert
  https://extension.oregonstate.edu/ask-expert/featured/how-can-i-organically-get-rid-italian-arum
• https://www.co.cowlitz.wa.us/DocumentCenter/View/13974/Italian-Arum

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Valerie Rose became a Master Gardener in 2009. A former journalist, she enjoys playing with words, and plants other than Italian Arum.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a Master Gardener may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Master Gardeners Visit the UW Botanic Gardens

Hallmarks of the Master Gardener Program: Shared Love of Plants and Learning

By Kay Torrance, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

What would draw a group predominately made up of WSU Cougs to venture into the heart of UW Huskies territory? It wasn’t a sporting event, but plants and a visit to the University of Washington’s extensive botanic resources: the Washington Park Arboretum, the Elisabeth C. Miller Library, and the new state-of-the-art UW Biology Greenhouse.

Regardless of the school colors they fly, a common characteristic among Master Gardeners is a shared love of plants and an ongoing commitment to learning. So it follows that when the opportunity to visit the extensive plant collections housed at the UW arose, it was not a surprise when registration filled quickly for the early March visit.

The tour’s first stop was the 230-acre UW Botanic Gardens Washington Park Arboretum. Noted for its meandering footpaths, the arboretum gardens feature collections of oaks, maples, camellias, and accompanying understory. During the early March visit the Joseph A. Witt Winter Garden was still in full splendor. The subtle colors of flowering hellebores and witch hazel were striking against a backdrop of textured bark from birches, maples, and twig dogwoods. Rhododendrons and camellias added a splash of dark green. The arboretum is open every day from dawn to dusk, free of charge.

Photo: Bobbi Lemme

Photo: Kay Torrance

Photo: Jessimine Tuttle

Elisabeth C. Miller Library at the botanic gardens was the second stop on the trip. Here, Brian Thompson, Library Manager and Curator of Horticultural Literature guided the Master Gardener group through the library’s extensive resources.

The Elisabeth C. Miller Library features Pacific Northwest Connections, a collection dedicated to plants and gardening in our unique climate. The library also features collections focused on geographic areas from around the world including New Zealand, Australia, China, Japan, South Africa, Chile, and the Mediterranean. The library’s collection of over 16,000 books includes rare and historical books, botanical drawings, nursery catalogs, and over 200 current periodicals and back issues.

The walls of the Elisabeth C. Miller Library are devoted to rotating art exhibits. Outside of the library is a tranquil courtyard adorned with plants from all over the world and furnished with scattered chairs and tables, a perfect place to read and contemplate gardening. The library is open to the public six days a week.

Photo: Diane Bowman

Photo: Charlene Day

Photo: Kay Torrance

The final stop of the Master Gardener’s bus tour was the new UW Biology Greenhouse at the Life Sciences Building. The 20,000-square-foot greenhouse first opened to the public in 2022. The state-of-the-art building is home to over 4,000 species of plants and growing! Master Gardeners were guided through four-themed garden rooms: Warm Tropics, Tree of Life, Cool Tropics, and Desert. On the cool, early March day, it was wonderful to take our coats off and step into a desert and then into a jungle.

Seattle botanical artist Crystal Shin was our docent for the Desert Room where plants are grouped by continent of origin. As the primary botanical illustrator for the University of Washington Herbarium book Flora of the Pacific Northwest (2^nd Ed.) Crystal has spent extensive time studying and illustrating plants in the UW collection. The Desert Room holds an impressive collection of North American cacti and a table of euphorbias from Africa. Prized specimens include a Welwitschia from Namibia, and a cherry blossom pink Adenium, and examples of Gasteria. Many of the plants demonstrate convergent evolution where plants adaptation mechanisms resulted in similar appearance despite separate evolutionary lineages.

Alex Lowe, a graduate student advisor, led the Master Gardeners through the Tree of Life room where plants are displayed in their evolutionary order of appearance starting with algae and mosses and then moving through Selaginellas, lycopods, ferns, gymnosperms, and finally angiosperms. The room includes examples of plants with economic importance such as bananas, pineapples, peppers, vanilla orchids, tobacco, and cotton.

Photo: Kay Torrance

Photo: Kelly Maupin

Photo: Kay Torrance

Next, we walked into the lush Warm Tropics room with Hannah McConnell, Ph.D. candidate, and were surrounded by palms, gingers, water plants, and orchids including a huge Grammatophyllum specimen.

The final garden room was the Cool Tropics Room. Here, Nile Kurashige, greenhouse plant technician introduced the group to tropical plants native to higher altitudes or latitudes. Highlights of the room included more orchids, carnivorous plants, Hoyas, and a huge Angiopteris fern reaching toward the ceiling.

In addition to the four garden rooms, the greenhouse complex has five climate-controlled rooms for education and research purposes and classroom space for courses in plant biology. The Biology Greenhouse supports UW students in subjects ranging from plant ecology to landscape architecture and anthropology. The greenhouse is open to the public for browsing on non-holiday Thursdays, and on the 2^nd and 4^th Saturdays of each month from 12 – 4 pm.

As the final tour wrapped up and we boarded our bus to head home, we were grateful for the learning opportunity, and realized how fortunate we are to have these world-class botanical resources open to the public and so close to home.

REFERENCES:

More info can be found at:

https://www.biology.washington.edu/facilities/greenhouse

Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/uwbiogreenhouse/.

https://www.seattletimes.com/seattle-news/inside-uws-new-greenhouse-and-a-closeup-look-at-its-rare-and-exotic-plants/

New home gives biology department’s plant collection room to grow

Leo Hitchcock and Arthur Cronquist Ed. 2018. Flora of the Pacific Northwest. 2^nd Ed. Seattle, WA, University of Washington Press

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Kay Torrance is a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener. She is Coordinator of the Naturescape Garden at the Discovery Garden on State Route 536 west of Mount Vernon.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a Master Gardener, may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Tree Squirrels of the Pacific Northwest

Gardener’s Friend or Foe?

By Kathy Wolfe, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Squirrel ˈskwə-rəl
noun:

1. a: Lively, adorable, cavorting, wide-eyed, bush-tailed acrobat whose antics and gyrations are a joy to watch.b: Destroyer of flower beds and home irrigation lines, raider of bird feeders, disease-carrying rodent full of fleas and ticks.

Here in lies the ambiguity of the squirrel. At times they can be the most entertaining creatures in our yard and at other times they can be very destructive to our landscapes, wildlife, and home structures.

Identification:
Washington has four native species of tree squirrels.

The Douglas squirrel (Tamiasciurus douglasii) measures 10 – 14 inches in length, including its tail, with a reddish or brownish gray back and an orange or yellowish belly. Douglas squirrels are usually found in cedar, pine, and fir forests in western Washington and the Cascade Mountains.

The Red squirrel (Tamiasciurus hudsonicus) is approximately the same size as the Douglas squirrel and lives in semi-open woods and coniferous forests in northeast Washington. Their rusty-red coat and white or grayish-white bellies help identify them.

The Western Gray squirrel (Sciurus griseus) is a larger animal measuring between 18 – 24 inches long. It has a gray upper body and creamy undercoat featuring a long, bushy tail with white edges. Western Gray squirrels are found in western and central Washington in low-elevation oak and conifer woods.

The Northern Flying squirrel (Glaucomys sabrinus) is smaller than the others, measuring 10 – 12 inches in total length. It can have a dark gray or brown body with a creamy underbelly. The large, dark eyes are another key to identifying it, as is the wide and flat tail. Seldom seen, they glide through the trees at night.

In addition to our native squirrels, the Eastern Gray squirrel and Eastern Fox squirrel were introduced in Washington in the early 1900s. They are the most common tree squirrels in urban areas and are often spotted in parks, campuses, and residential areas. The Eastern Gray squirrel, gray with a reddish wash in summer with a whitish belly, is about 20 inches long, half of which is its prominent, bushy tail. The Eastern Fox squirrel is approximately 22 inches long which includes a large tail measuring 9 – 10 inches. Its coloration is usually dark gray with a reddish cast and orange to deep buff underpinning. The fur color of both introduced squirrels can vary widely and sometimes they can be almost entirely black. 

Squirrels enjoy eating acorns, seeds, tree buds and berries as well as plants and twigs.” Photo by Nancy Crowell / WSU Skagit County Extension Master Gardener

Squirrels are vulnerable to hawks, owls, dogs, coyotes and bobcats. Watch your back, little fellow! Photo by Nancy Crowell / WSU Skagit County Extension Master Gardener

Eating habits:
Squirrels can be seen eating acorns, seeds, tree buds, and berries as well as plant material and twigs. Occasionally they will eat parts of a bird’s nest– the eggs, or baby chicks. Insects and fungi are also a part of their diet. They store their food in hollow stumps, abandoned burrows, and any hidey-hole they can find – including exhaust pipes, under flower pots and in unused cars. In the fall when Douglas squirrels and Red squirrels are harvesting and storing food for winter, you may see debris under oak, maple, nut trees, and conifers which indicates that the animals have been breaking off seed and nut clusters and dropping them to the ground where they harvest them for a meal or store for later use. You might find a pile of cone scales under a tree where squirrels have harvested the seeds of the cone.
Nesting, mating, and lifestyle habits:
Hollow cavities are also used for nesting. Leaves, twigs, shredded bark, moss, insulation and other soft materials are used to structure their nests. When hollow cavities are not available, spherical or cup-shaped nests are built in trees, bird nesting boxes or even attics. In cold weather, red squirrels may nest underground, often near where they have stored their food. Urban squirrels generally nest in buildings or other structures.

Mating occurs in early winter to late spring, with one litter of two to four babies produced in March through June. Some species may have a second litter in August or September.

Although squirrels are relatively safe when up in trees, they are vulnerable on the ground to hawks, owls, cats, dogs, coyotes, and bobcats. Vehicles, disease, and starvation are also killers. Squirrels can live for three to five years, but most die within their first year.

Squirrels are most active from dawn to dusk. They do not hibernate in winter but remain in their nests if the weather is stormy or cold.

If you watch squirrels running up and down a tree, you might notice their speed. Their double-jointed hind legs propel them forward quickly. They also use their very sharp front claws to grip and climb.

Listen to their distinctive call. A Red or Douglas squirrel whose territory is being trespassed may produce a rapid tsik tsik tsik. The Eastern gray squirrel flicks its tail while making a que, que, que, que sound.

Managing Human/Squirrel Interaction:

Tree squirrels can be destructive to bird feeders and bulb plantings among other things. Should a squirrel decide to take up residence in your attic or down your chimney, you won’t be pleased. To limit this, look around your buildings and eliminate access through dryer and roof vents, rotten siding or boards. Keep tree and shrub branches pruned away from buildings and roofs to eliminate access to these areas. Barriers around fruit trees, bulbs, and tree bark can be used to deter these determined creatures. Check the Internet for examples of designs that might work for you. You may also want to try commercial deterrent sprays.

To prevent potential conflicts, you should never feed squirrels. Use squirrel-resistant bird feeders and check bird nesting boxes for squirrel nesting sites.

If a squirrel gets adapted to hand-feeding (as cute as it is), it may lose the fear of humans and become aggressive. If a person is bitten or scratched by a tree squirrel, immediately scrub the wound with soap and water and flush liberally with tap water.

How would you describe the squirrels in your yard? Cute and amusing entertainers or destructive, vermin-infested rodents? Perhaps a little bit of both?

REFERENCES:

“The Pacific NW Squirrel, Cute Furry Creatures or Pesky Rodent”, Get Smart Rat Solutions. https://getsmartratsolutions.com/the-pacific-nw-squirrel-cute-furry-creatures-or-pesky-rodent/

“Living with wildlife: Tree squirrels”, Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife. https://wdfw.wa.gov/species-habitats/living/species-facts/tree-squirrels

 Living with Wildlife in the Pacific Northwest, Russell Link, University of Washington Press, 2004.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Kathy Wolfe has been Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener since 2002. She is Co-coordinator of the vegetable garden at the Discovery Garden on State Route 536 west of Mount Vernon.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a Master Gardener, may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

2023 Skagit Master Gardener Plant Fair

Enjoy fun for the whole family – Saturday, May 13, 2023

By Claire Cotnoir and Hank Davies, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners and Co-Chairs of the 2023 Plant Fair

This exciting annual event kicks off the Skagit Valley gardener’s summer with thousands of quality garden plants for sale, all locally grown or selected by Master Gardeners and chosen for success in our Skagit Valley environment. The Annual Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Plant Fair is set for Saturday, May 13, 8 AM – 2 PM at the Skagit County Fairgrounds located at 501 Taylor Street in Mount Vernon. Parking is free – admission is free and the fun and knowledge you will gain is free. Follow the signs to the County Fairgrounds South entrance on Taylor Street. Be sure to tell your friends and neighbors about this exciting annual event.

This year’s Plant Fair perennial flowers and annual starts feature some spectacular varieties. You will find starts for exciting plants such as the fabulous Lisianthus – which is very difficult to germinate (we have done the hard part for you!) and we are excited to offer these other exciting varieties at this year’s Plant Fair.

• Lisianthus – a rare and beautiful rose-like plant! A wide variety of colors will be available including, Apricot, Beige Neo, Mint Green, Rouge, Gold, and Metallic Blue

• Coleus in a rainbow of colors–great for containers and accent colors

• Unusual and unique palette of Snapdragon flowers

• Canterbury Bells

• A beautiful collection of new Cosmos, including cupcake white, double click cranberry, and apricot lemonade
• Amaranth, Zinnia varieties, and of course, Sunflowers
• Bells of Ireland and Pumpkin on a Stick!

A wide variety of herbs and vegetables will be on sale including basil, dill, egg plant, Swiss chard, cabbage and leaf lettuces. Photo © Nancy Crowell

We’re excited to offer Lisianthus, a beautiful cut flower in a variety of unusual colors including Apricot, Beige Neo, Mint Green, Rouge, Gold, and Metallic Blue Photo © My Thanh Kim

Find unusual shade plants like these Hookers Fairy Bells. Photo © Jessimine Tuttle

In the vegetable section, the Master Gardener Greenhouse team’s goal was to select varieties for uniqueness, plants that are award-winning, and have growing and producing habits that match our location and climate. We are offering plants that do not need a greenhouse to be successful, and that are as disease resistant as possible given our wet weather and short season. A few examples of the vegetable starts you will find include:

• A wide variety of Basil including Dolce Fresca Genovese, an award-winning Basil that is compact, disease resistant, and reluctant to flower and bolt. Other Basils include Prospero Genovese, Deep Purple, and Thai.
• A vast assortment of hearty and tender herbs including a Dill Leaf variety.
• Many leaf lettuce varieties including arugula, Swiss chard, and a slow-to-bolt spinach variety that is also disease resistant.
• Some fun Brassica – or you might know them as members of the cabbage family, and a wide variety of eggplant including early, high-yielding varieties of Italian, Asian, and white.
• 7 varieties of peppers including many that are easy to grow and eager to produce including Bastan, an early ancho as well as Arapaho Cayenne. We are also offering this year Aji Rico, a medium hot award-winning conical pepper variety.

And finally, an array of early melon starts chosen for their flavor and hardiness. Please remember to make a list and bring your boxes as you are sure to leave with many more plants than you ever knew you wanted.

The 2023 Plant Fair covers the entire fairgrounds, both inside all the display buildings and outside. One entire building, Building D will be devoted just to tomatoes. Last year’s Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Plant Fair featured over three thousand tomato plants. The tomato starts are very popular and have sold out in previous years. For a complete list of the tomato varieties with descriptions, please go to: https://www.skagitmg.org/home/events/plant-fair/plantfairtomatoes/

Building D, aka the “tomato house”, is staffed with veteran tomato experts to help you pick out the right plants for your garden based on your preferences and garden conditions. And they love to answer tomato questions.

In addition to the plants available for sale and the expertise available from knowledgeable veteran local Master Gardeners, Plant Fair visitors will enjoy a variety of vendors selling handcrafted wares like jewelry, glass/metal art, wood sculptures, and even more plants. This year’s vendors will be selling bulbs, blooms, potted plants, locally sourced food, and drink in addition to the handcrafted items.

And, we are pleased to announce, based on your suggestions, this year we will have a spot set up where you can park your purchases while you peruse the other garden sections for possibly additional goods you can’t live without.

The Plant Fair offers a huge selection of locally grown plant starts, selected by Master Gardeners and chosen for success in our Skagit Valley environment. Photo © Nancy Crowell

Ferns and shade loving native plants Photo © Nancy Crowell

Iris varieties and many other flowering perennials will be for sale. Photo © Jessimine Tuttle

You should also try to make time to attend one of the short gardening presentations offered each half hour from 9 AM to 1 PM. They will be presented in Building B. We are excited to announce the inclusion of a Spanish language presentation on bees. Other topics that will be showcased and presented by our own Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners include tomatoes, questions, and advice. Master Gardeners will also be available on-site including some of our Plant Clinic experts to help you with plant questions and problems. A full list of presentations during the Plant Fair can be found on our website at https://www.skagitmg.org/home/events/plant-fair/

The Master Gardener mission is to support home gardeners by promoting science-based gardening practices and education in a partnership with WSU extension. The proceeds generated from the Plant Fair allow Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners to continue to support that mission.

Plant Clinics are held throughout the summer months and into the fall. You are encouraged to bring your plants and your questions to the Plant Clinics. Information on the dates and places for Plant Clinics will be available at the Plant Fair for reliable, science-based advice and help. For 50 years our WSU Extension Master Gardeners have been helping Washington communities with its gardening needs – providing science-based answers to plant production and plant problems and questions. Skagit County has had an active WSU Extension Master Gardener Program since 1977. For more information please go to our website here: https://extension.wsu.edu/skagit/mg/

ABOUT THE AUTHORS:
Claire Cotnoir and Hank Davies are the Co-Chairs of the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Plant Fair and are also co-cordinators of the Japanese Garden in the Discovery Garden on SR 536, west of Mount Vernon.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a Master Gardener, may be directed to: Skagit County WSU Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Stem the Landfill Tide with Vermicomposting

Convert Home Food Waste into an Organic, Nutrient Rich Soil Enhancement

By Katryna Barber, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

This isn’t typically a welcome topic to bring up at a dinner party, but the quantity of food thrown into landfills in this country is horrifying. Food makes up about 24% of the material in landfills. And, wait for it… the biggest contributors to food waste in America are not farms or industry, but families. Yikes!

Everyday, nutritional trash gets mixed in with sofas, plastics, and other debris, and makes its way to a landfill where it is dumped in a huge, stinking pile. Once there, everything is compacted and eventually buried where it doesn’t get the air needed to break down organic waste. Without air under the pile of buried garbage organic waste produces methane–a major greenhouse gas. Some landfills burn off the methane before it explodes, creating a vicious cycle by producing carbon dioxide, another greenhouse gas. To read about how landfills work see the reference at the end of this article. It may encourage your composting efforts.

Growing food and getting it to market requires water, energy, fertilizer, and land. These resources are wasted when food ends up in a landfill. To combat the problem, the EPA and the FDA have created a program called U.S. 2030 Food Loss and Waste Reduction Goal. On a national level, these organizations are working to reduce food waste, food insecurity, wasted resources, and climate change.

If You Care About the Earth, You Can Also Do Something
Beyond buying ugly produce we can do our part to help reduce food waste and have fun doing it. By composting at home, either in a pile or with a worm bin, we can stop the cycle by feeding worms our food scraps and letting them convert them into high-quality nutrients that can be used by plants and other life forms that live in the soil.

A pound or two of red wigglers (or manure worms) will break down your food scraps and produce several buckets of worm castings (poop)– the black gold of garden additives. The castings don’t stink and are very nutritious for plants, creating a positive cycle of returning nutrients to the soil. It might feel small, but it is a win-win, leaving our soil in better shape, and reducing landfill waste–one banana peel at a time.

The red wigglers thrive near the soil surface, eating decaying organic material. Photo by Craig Barber / Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners

The worm bin at the Discovery Garden sits outside year around, under the shade protection. Photo by Ginny Bode / Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners

The worms are fed regularly with food scraps which include all types of vegetables, coffee grounds and filters, even pancakes and banana peals! Photo by Ginny Bode / Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners
 Getting Started
A quick Internet search leads to many websites and blogs about vermiculture, worms, and worm bins. Locally, good information can be found at Seattle Tilth and Whatcom.wsu.edu. (See references below.) Mary Appelhof’s book Worms Eat My Garbage, is an awesome and thorough guide.
Before Starting, Explore Your Options
Be realistic about your living situation and caring for your worm bin. Worms are living beings, doing great work. Find an accessible place to locate the worm bin, either inside or outside. They reproduce rather quickly, so make sure you can accommodate them with enough food and space. Be prepared to have a place for the worm castings, either in your garden, or to share.
Do You Have Enough Food Waste to Keep the Worms Happy?
A pound of worms needs about 1/2 pound of food scraps a day. If you don’t have a scrap jar in the kitchen already, start one and see how much accumulates. Perhaps you will need to supplement their food with scraps from other sources.

Note: Never put meat, dairy, or oils in a worm bin. Don’t put pet waste or pet litter in a worm bin, either. A small amount of pulverized eggshells, or a bit of soil for grit, is okay, but avoid putting citrus rind or onion in the worm bin-they don’t like it.

Setting Up Your Worm Bin
Locate a place for the worm bin and have it ready for the worms. Then get the red wigglers. You can buy them online, but it will be easier and less expensive to find someone locally who already has a worm bin. These little creatures populate quickly. They can live up to 3 years or more, so overpopulation can be a problem. It is recommended for a family of four to start with a pound of worms or about 1,000 worms.

The optimum temperature range for red wigglers is between 55° and 77° F. Air circulation and moisture are important, since worms breathe through their skin, and need moisture to do so. They need regular feeding, though, thankfully, red wigglers are fairly resilient. Once, when I neglected to feed them for several weeks, I still found living worms a few inches down as I turned my bin over! They weren’t pleased, but by replenishing the bedding, and feeding with new food scraps and coffee grounds they were soon thriving.

Red wigglers will die if you just let them go in the garden. Unlike their earthworm cousins who live deep in the soil, red wigglers eat the mold and bacteria that lives on rotting plant material, usually on or near the surface of the soil.

Harvesting the Rewards
If your bin is large enough, divide it in half and stop putting food on one side. Feed the other half. Allow 5 to 6 weeks for the worms to migrate to the feeding side. Scoop out the worm castings on the deserted side and lay it on a tarp. If you find worms just put them back in the new bedding. Pile it up and let the worms crawl into the deeper, darker part. Harvest the poop. Diminish the pile, spreading it out, leaving some in a hill for the worms to retreat to. Repeat as needed. Put the remaining worms and material back into the bin. Harvest the other side later as needed.

An alternate method is to dump the whole caboodle out on a large tarp. Harvest the same way as above. Be sure to have bedding and food ready to start their new home.

If you decide to start a worm bin, congratulations! You are keeping carbon-based organic materials (food, paper) out of a landfill, reducing greenhouse gases, improving the soil, and learning about caring for red wigglers. Happy vermicomposting!

REFERENCES:
https://science.howstuffworks.com/environmental/green-science/landfill.htm

https://www.epa.gov/sustainable-management-food/united-states-2030-food-loss-and-waste-reduction-goal

Seattle Tilth Off the Shelf Worm Bin rev. 11/2012
https://tilthalliance.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/Final-Seattle-Tilth-Off-The-Shelf-Worm-Bin.pdf
Thurston County, Thurston County WSU Extension
https://s3.wp.wsu.edu/uploads/sites/2056/2018/10/Worm-Composting-Workshop-Handout-2018.pdf

Appelhof, Mary. Ed. 1997. Worms Eat My Garbage. 2nd Ed. Kalamazoo, Mich., USA Flower Press

Martin, Callie
https://skagitcounty.net/PublicWorksSolidWaste/Documents/
Food Scrap Composting Booklet.pdf

https://extension.wsu.edu/whatcom/hg/worm-composting/

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
Katryna Barber is a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener and is a team member of the composting program at the Discovery Garden.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a Master Gardener, may be directed to: WSU Skagit County Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Midnight Marauders

Managing Those Pesky Slugs and Snails

By Diana Wisen, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Pacific Northwest gardeners probably spend more time discussing slug damage than almost any other garden problem. Slugs require moisture in the soil and vegetation, both of which are abundant in our area.
During cold or dry weather, they can move down into the soil. Adult slugs and snails live through the winter in this region, seeking shelter underground. In dry or hot weather, they can borrow down as much as 6 feet to find cool dampness. They can seal themselves off with a parchment-like membrane for protection from the elements. They are Gastropods from the Greek meaning “belly foot”.

Most of the slugs and snails you see in your yard are non-native, invasive varieties. The native Banana slug, a good guy, is found mostly in wooded areas, not suburban landscapes, and tends to eat only decaying matter. There are many species of non-native slugs that attack your plants.

Two of the most destructive are the common gray field slug, genus Arion (several colors of these large slugs), and the brown snail that is becoming more common as it can survive drier conditions easier than slugs.

Slugs eat young vegetables starts, strawberries, daffodils and tulips, and many other things, with new dahlia shoots and marigolds being among their favorites. You have to start early and be vigilant in your efforts to manage the slug and snail population in your yard. There is no such thing as just one slug. Slugs can lay anywhere between 30 to 100 eggs at a time, several times a year, mostly in late summer. Slugs are hermaphrodites: adults have both female and male organs, so all can lay eggs. Sometimes the eggs hatch right away and other times they hatch the following spring. Look for clusters of tiny, pearl-like eggs beneath leaf debris, boards, garden pots, and other damp places and crush them immediately.

Those little eggs will soon turn into ravenous baby slugs which eat 30-40 times their body weight every day! Their teeth are like a rasp that shreds the vegetation as they glide along. Slugs tend to come out at night or on cloudy days when it is cool and damp. This is your clue as to when to head out to hand-pick. However, only about 5% of the slugs are above ground at any given time, thus making control efforts difficult and ongoing.

There are five main types of control and for best results, you may have to utilize all of them, though you will never be able to eliminate slugs completely.

Biological:
Some predators eat slugs. Toads, frogs, snakes, and beetles will eat small slugs, so encourage them in your yard. Sometimes chickens and wild birds will eat baby slugs, but gag on large slugs. Ducks and geese eat slugs, but this poultry solution is not for everyone.
Cultural:
Change the conditions so the area is not conducive to slugs. Keep the soil dry. Mow nearby meadows or grassy areas. Keep a 6-foot-wide strip of dry, bare ground around your vegetable garden, use arborist chips for pathways, till your soil in early spring to expose the slug eggs, and plant things that slugs tend not to eat. Crushed eggs shells, ashes, and diatomaceous earth do not work. The slug’s mucus thickens to protect it from sharp surfaces.
Mechanical:
People love to talk about their favorite tools for slug control.
– A sharp shovel or weeding tool, a Hori-Hori knife, an old kitchen knife or scissors, or a hoe. Keep them all handy. Many people regularly go out at night or early morning with a bucket of soapy water on a search and destroy mission. The frequency is up to you, but the more often the better the results. Be sure to wear disposable gloves as slugs carry diseases such as Salmonella. Be sure to keep a lid
on the container.
– A wide band (3″) of copper tape firmly attached around the base of containers and raised beds will prevent slugs from climbing up. They will not cross copper. But make sure there are no slug eggs in the soil already in the pot!

This large red slug (Arion rufus) is one of the larger slug varieties, with an appetite to
match. This photo shows the slug’s round pneumostome (nose and breathing hole) and
the black optical tentacles protruding from its head. © Photo by Jason Miller.

Large red slugs descend on a pile of discarded raspberry canes. With voracious appetites,
these slugs can devastate many small plants overnight, skeletonizing the leaves and
diminishing the plants’ chances at survival. © Photo by Jason Miller.
Chemical:
There are many products on the market to kill slugs and snails. Read the label before purchasing and using it at home. Follow the directions exactly. The newer products are distributed differently than was done with the products of a few years back. Newer products use ferrous (iron) phosphate as the active ingredient and require only sprinkling sparsely over an area. Slugs are attracted to the bait, they eat it, and it makes them stop eating and slither away to die. You won’t see the dead bodies, but after a few days, you will notice the damage has stopped. These newer products remain active for up to 2 weeks, even if it rains. They are safe to use around children, pets, and wildlife.

There are some products available that use metaldehyde as the active ingredient and it works very well, but they can be poisonous to children, pets, and wildlife.

Home Remedies:
Do not use salt. Slugs rehydrate and salt damages your soil and plants. Fermenting yeast attracts slugs, so some people use beer. You provide the party, and the slugs show up, drink their fill and drown. It has its advantage. The slugs come to you; you don’t have to go out looking for them. You can use a cottage cheese carton, cut a couple of openings in the side, set it in the ground up to those holes, fill it with beer or your homemade brew, and put the lid on. Check and empty it every couple of days. Slugs are also attracted by the smell of dead slugs and show up to join the party. Keep your dog away since dogs are known to slurp up the whole thing, dead slugs, and all. You can use old beer, but not wine or stale beer. Apple vinegar sometimes works. You can also make your own fermenting recipe: 1 Tbsp brewer’s yeast or baking yeast, 1 Tbsp sugar, 2 Tbsp flour, and 2 cups tepid water. Mix and allowed to stand for an hour or so. It will last for 2 or 3 days.

Remember it takes regular attention and vigilance to manage slug and snail populations. Keep at it and over the years you will see a decline in the numbers you have in your yard.

About the Author:
Diana Wisen is a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener and is the Coordinator of the Fuchsia Garden at the Discovery Garden on SR 536 in Mount Vernon.
References:
Gordon, David George. 2010. The Secret Life of Slugs and Snails-Life in the Slow Lane Sasquatch Books, Seattle, WA

“Managing Slugs and Snails” State University- 10-Minute University OSU Master Gardener Program and OSU Extension Service

Those Pesky Slugs” Article by Mary Robson King County Area Extension Agent (now retired) May 2000

Schenk, George. 2002. The Complete Shade Garden. Timber Press, Portland, OR

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener, may be directed to:  WSU Skagit County Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination.  To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Cool Weather Vegetables

Getting the Garden Started Early in the Pacific Northwest

By Ruth Sutton, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Winter time in the Pacific Northwest, when the days are short, cool and cloudy, is the perfect time to check out seed catalogs and start thinking about what and when to plant. Our marine-influenced weather makes the perfect climate for growing cool-season vegetables that thrive in 40 – 70 degree temperatures. There is a long list of popular and common cool-season vegetables, including: spinach, kale, lettuce, onion, garlic, asparagus, cabbage, broccoli, beets, carrots, Swiss chard, peas, radishes, parsnips, and potatoes.

Planting and Temperatures:

Cool season vegetables must be planted early enough for them to complete their full growing cycle up to harvest before the temperatures rise. Once the air warms up, some of them will be triggered to bolt by sending up flowers and making seeds as they struggle to reproduce and survive.

Some seeds such as beets, carrots, cabbage, arugula and turnips will germinate with temperatures as low as 40 degrees Fahrenheit, while others need higher temperatures. Check out growing charts for our area as well as last frost dates, and make sure to check the seed packet or seed catalog for indication of the minimum temperature for air and soil prior to planting. Soil thermometers are inexpensive and easy to find and can assist in determining the soil temperature.

Seeds vs. Starts:

Look for seeds that are grown in a similar growing zone, and that are disease and bolt resistant.  Some vegetables, such as carrots, cilantro, parsnips, radish, and spinach are best sown directly into the garden soil. Most cool weather seedlings can withstand a light frost, and row covers can be used to protect the seedlings if necessary. On the other hand, cool springs can make it difficult to get good germination, and even some cool-season plants can benefit from being transplanted.Local stores and nurseries will soon be stocking cool weather starts.

The Onion Family:

One of the earliest to start in our area is the onion family. Leeks, shallots, and onions are very cold tolerant. If you have access to a greenhouse, now is the time to start onions from seeds. Once the starts are 4-5 inches in height, they are ready to go into the garden. Onion starts are hardy and can be transplanted as soon as March. Starts are usually available in nurseries this time of year as well. Make sure you grow the long-day or day-neutral varieties in our area. The local stores stock these varieties. Look for eastern Washington Walla Walla sweets in stores in March.

Peas:

Peas also thrive in the early spring weather. Although you can directly sow peas in late February and on, they can also be soaked overnight and then grown in seed pots until 4-6 inches in height. This has the advantage of preventing the peas from rotting in the ground in case of a very wet spring. Stagger your plantings a few weeks apart and you will have a succession of peas to eat. Popular varieties include Oregon Snow pea and Sugar Snap peas.

Of the onion and garlic family, leeks grow especially well in the Skagit Valley. Photo by Ruth Sutton

Swiss Chard is easy to grow and can be planted early in the spring. Photo by Ruth Sutton

Savoy Cabbage is a member of the Brassica genus as are broccoli and Brussels sprouts. Photo by Ruth Sutton

Leafy Greens:

Lettuce is another easy, popular vegetable to grow here. There are so many varieties of lettuce it can be dizzying trying to decide which to try. Whether you opt for the brilliant red of Gabriella, or the bright chartreuse of Simpson’s elite, all do well in the northwest climate and can be directseeded by March or a week or two before the last frost.  

Spinach is hardy as well in cool weather. Be sure to choose a variety that is bolt-resistant, as it loves to bolt when temperatures rise.

Swiss chard and kale are wonderful vegetables to grow in the PNW as they have few diseases or pests. They also have a long growing season. They can be seeded again in July or August for long winter harvest. In fact, the flavor of kale is improved after a frost due to carbohydrates in its cell walls that turn into sugar molecules.

And there’s more:

Cabbage is cold-resistant and a favorite for planting in late July or August for a fall and winter harvest. Garlic, another cool season vegetable, is planted by placing cloves in the soil in late fall for early summer harvest.  

Asparagus is a popular perennial, usually grown from starts. The fresh stalks popping up in early spring are eagerly anticipated. They need a permanent spot in the garden and take a few years before they can be harvested but are worth the wait.

Finally, don’t forget the northwest potato. The Skagit Valley farmers have grown potatoes here in the valley for many years. Planted usually around April, their tubers will grow underground until they are ready for harvest. They hold well underground as well.

With so many options for early gardening, what are you waiting for?

About the Author:

Ruth Sutton is a Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener and Co-coordinator of the Vegetable Garden at the Discovery Garden on SR 536 in Mount Vernon.

References:

Leeks by Brian Charles Clark, Spring 2017, Washington State Magazine https://magazine.wsu.edu/2017/01/27/leeks/

https://extension.wsu.edu/snohomish/fall-and-winter-vegetable-gardens-for-western-washington/

Home Gardening Series by Carol Miles, Gale Sterrett, Lynnette Hesnault, Chris Benedict and Catherine Daniels. https://pubs.extension.wsu.edu/home-vegetable-gardening-in-washington-home-garden-series

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener, may be directed to:  WSU Skagit County Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination.  To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Heathers and Heaths

An evergreen shrub well-adapted for Pacific Northwest landscapes

By Robin Fowler-Lee, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

“No evangel among the mountain plants speaks Nature’s love more plainly than Cassiope.”
                                                – John Muir

Heathers and heaths, common in our area, have a multitude of characteristics and are well-adapted to the Pacific Northwest landscape. Ericaceae is the family of the heather plants, but it also includes rhododendrons, blueberries, mountain laurels, and more. While it’s a bit of a misnomer to categorize all shrubs of this character as “heather,” it is the predominant term for describing these compact, evergreen shrubs.

Our usage of the term “heather” includes:

• Heath, or Erica
• Heather, or Calluna
• Daboecia

Characteristics:

Erica (heath) has greater than 800 species and varies in size, texture, color, and form. Very few grow higher than 36 inches, and they can vary in width from 10 – 70 inches. There are tree heaths that can grow up to 10 feet tall, although they are easily damaged by frost in the Pacific Northwest. Heaths have ‘teeth,’ or needle-like foliage.

Calluna (heather) have ‘feathers,’ or flat, fan-like foliage. With over 300 cultivars, Calluna has the greatest variety in foliage color and can be attractive year-round.

Daboecia is the smallest group of heathers, usually growing smaller and seen in higher altitudes. There is another high-altitude species, Cassiope mertensiana, which is one of the wildflowers that grow along Mount Rainier.

Heathers can bloom in summer or winter, depending on the species. Foliage can change colors throughout the seasons. Calluna has more dramatic foliage changes but can also be winter or summer bloomers. They are drought-resistant, deer-resistant, unaffected by gophers, moles, slugs and snails, and dramatic if planted in drifts with room to spread.

Photo by Jessamyn Tuttle/ Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners.

Photo by Jessamyn Tuttle/ Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners.

Heaths and Heathers found the Discovery Garden on Highway 536 west of Mount Vernon begin blooming in early February and continue through the summer. Photo by Ginny Bode/ Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardeners.
Use in the landscape:
Designing with heathers can be an adventure, as there are so many forms, flowering colors, foliage colors, and textures. They mix well with conifers, rhododendrons, grasses, and other drought-tolerant perennials such as rosemary and sedum. They also fit in many garden styles including cottage, formal, Japanese, perennial gardens, and work well in containers. They provide nutrition for bees, butterflies, and birds.
Planting and cultivation:
Heathers grow best in acidic soil and sunny locations. In general, heathers should be planted in a location with at least 6 hours of full sun, where there is good drainage. Peat moss can be mixed with an acidic soil base to help roots establish. They have low nutritional needs; supplying a small amount of acid-loving fertilizer once a year for two years is all that is needed for healthy development.

Drip irrigation, if used, should emit water away from the crown. Mulching with a bark of various sizes, such as aged compost, partially decomposed conifer bark, pine needles, or chopped oak leaves is best. When mulching, allow breathing room around the crown. Although they love our fog, heathers can be susceptible to fungi if mulched heavily around the crown, and also if they are crowded with minimal airflow.

Pruning:
Compact heathers minimize weed proliferation and preserve moisture. Pruning should occur after flowering. Because there is so much variety in bloom time, sometimes it is easiest to prune both heather and heath in the early spring. Pruning should not occur in the extremes of winter or summer. When pruning, the stems should be cut just below the spent flowers but maintaining green foliage. They can be pruned with shears or an electric hedge trimmer. Hand clippers can also be used on the new plantings to develop a compact form. Pruning to a mushroom shape will give the shrub a compact form. The sides are best pruned as well as the top; just avoid cutting all the foliage on the sides, as this gives the heather a boxed look with naked, woody sides.

Erica usually requires less pruning and is less cold-tolerant. They tend to maintain their compact nature more than Calluna. Erica will grow fuller if dead flowers are removed in the early spring. They will send out new, fuller growth and more blooms with the early spring pruning. Calluna, however, depending on the variety and bloom time, can be pruned in the fall. Calluna will have a much better appearance if pruned annually. After the flowers fall off the stem no new foliage grows, and thus they can become gangly and unappealing if not pruned.

You can learn more about heathers at heatherworld.org or stop by the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener demonstration gardens: Discovery Garden (16650 WA-536, Mount Vernon, WA 98273) to explore the Heather Garden. Look closely at the foliage to see if you can distinguish the heaths from the heathers.

RESOURCES:

• David Small and Ella May T. Wulff, Gardening with Hardy Heathers, Portland, OR Timber Press, 2008
• Lloyd Eighme, “Heathers for Warm Gardens,” Pacifichorticulture.org
• John Muir, PlantID.net, White Mountain Heather
• Maria Krenek, UCCE, Master Gardener of Humboldt and Del Norte Counties, youtube, August 2020

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

Robin Fowler Lee is a 2022 graduate of the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Program and is the coordinator for the Heaths and Heathers Garden at the Discovery Garden on Highway 536 west of Mount Vernon.

Birds In Winter

Enjoy the Antics of Winter Birds While Giving a Hand to Their Survival

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By Kathy Wolfe, Skagit County Master Gardener

Ah, January! The perfect time to relax in your favorite chair, a nice hot beverage and a few shortbread cookies at hand, and gaze out into the garden. It is a chance to dream: the first step to creating, planning and implementing new ideas, whether for your garden or in your life. It is also a good time to take stock of your garden seeds, cull out the old and order new. The earlier your order is placed, the better chance of getting the varieties you seek.

From the comfort of your chair, you may also notice winter birds flitting about. Birds are an integral part in the cycle of nature. Helping them get proper food, water and shelter will assist their winter survival and allow you to enjoy their antics.

On chilling winter days most birds fluff up their feathers to form insulating air pockets to help them stay warm. You may sometimes find a bird standing on one leg with the other tucked into its breast for warmth. Food availability is limited so filling your clean feeders with high calorie, fat containing food will help them survive. All feeders should be located out of the wind with some type of cover such as a bush, tree or ground plantings nearby to offer shelter, protect them from predators and allow them to survey the feeding area.

There are several types of feeders to use depending on what birds you wish to attract. Foraging, ground feeding birds, e.g., sparrows, juncos, quail and towhees, need low plantings or branches for cover so they can scoot in and out to a ground level feeding area with ease.

A male House Finch. Photo by Wes Jansen

A male Northern Flicker perched near suet feeder in the background. Photo by Wes Jensen

A Pileated Woodpecker feeding on a hanging suet. Photo by Wes Jansen

Tube feeders with shorter metal perching stations may attract smaller birds such as chickadees and finches, while excluding larger birds like jays. These feeders can build up mold and bacteria in the bottom which are harmful to birds so bring them in, clean out the bottom-most part of the tube, wash and dry thoroughly, before adding new seed.

Nyjer or thistle feeders, usually a fine-wired tube, are popular with goldfinch and pine siskin. They can become quite wet with rain so clean frequently, as you would all tube feeders.

Suet feeders can be constructed of wire or plastic-coated mesh and are either hung on a branch or nailed to a tree. Woodpeckers, nuthatches, and chickadees are some of the birds attracted to these feeders.

All feeders should be cleaned on a regular basis because moldy and decomposing seeds and hulls can get trapped and make birds sick. Bird droppings and contaminants also can spread infection and disease. Start by removing old seeds, take the feeder apart and handwash in hot, soapy water or with a diluted 1:9 parts bleach to water solution. Rinse thoroughly, dry and refill. Clean the area under your feeders to remove waste and spoiled food, as well as to avoid attracting rodents.

What to feed your birds? Black oil sunflower seeds are a great overall offering due to their high fat and protein content. They have twice the calories per pound of striped sunflower seeds and a smaller shell for less mess. Suet and peanuts are another great winter food. DO NOT feed birds bread in winter because it provides little nutrition, can cause obesity and malnourishment, as well as usually having preservatives and excess salt.

If you are lucky enough to have hummingbirds, continue to feed them a 1:4 solution of refined white sugar to tap water, the best and least expensive food for them. Boil this mixture until the sugar is dissolved then cool before filling the feeder. Clean once each week in winter using hot water and a bottle brush. Do not use soap. A diluted bleach/water mix (see above) can be used if you rinse the container very thoroughly before refilling. It is better not to have hummingbirds drink cold nectar because it can cold-stun them so bring feeders in overnight when it is cold and take out again first thing in the morning when the birds most need food.

In addition to food and shelter, birds need a reliable source of water. Shallow bird baths, fountains or small ponds, if kept clean and ice free near protected areas, will be well used.

In addition to seeds, birds also thrive on insects and berries. Viburnum, holly, cotoneaster, pyracantha, roses with hips, mahonia (Oregon grape), crab apple, snowberry, beautyberry and Pacific wax myrtle are all bird favorites in winter. Tuft-forming grasses left uncut in winter can house many varieties of insects for the birds’ enjoyment. Pines and spruces provide another source of seed that can be harvested all winter long from their cones. You might consider adding some winter fruiting plants or grasses to your yard for both winter interest and as treats for the birds.

Use this filter from The Cornell Lab of Ornithology to find specific birds by region, what they eat and which feeders they prefer: Common Feeder Birds – FeederWatch .

To interpret some interesting and entertaining bird interactions in your yard and for more information on backyard bird feeding go to: Power Struggles Are Playing Out at Your Feeder-Here’s What to Look For | All About Birds All About Birds .

Note to Readers: The highly pathogenic avian flu has hit the Skagit County Bird population particularly hard. If you see a dead swan or other bird, do not touch it. For swan please call the swan hotline for WDFW at 360-466-4345 x266. Here’s an update on the avian flu, including what to do if you see dead birds and how to keep your pets safe:

https://wdfw.wa.gov/newsroom/wdfw-statement/wdfw-statement-avian-influenza-outbreak-among-waterfowl-around-skagit-bay?mibextid=Zxz2cZ

Photo by Nancy Crowell

Photo by Ginny Bode

Photo by Ginny Bode
Our thanks to these photographers for lending use of their photos for this article:

Wes and Rosi Jensen of Fine Feathered Friends in La Conner www.fine-featheredfriends.com

Nancy Crowell, Crowell Photography

Ginny Bode

How to Grow Lisianthus

A rose by any other name…

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By My Thanh Kim, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

Call it love at first sight. Four years ago, I fell hard for some mysterious flowers in a lobby of a hotel. They looked like roses except more striking with an abundance of green buds surrounding luxurious blooms. This was the beginning of an obsession.  I checked nurseries for plants but had no luck.  Over the next several years I saw them again, and then, while watching the 2020 (2021) Tokyo Summer Olympics, I saw my beauties, lisianthus flowers prominently displayed and my love affair with them started all over again.

While hard to find in flower nurseries it is possible to start lisianthus from seeds. Mastering the seed-starting techniques was a months-long process, but well worth it. In the end, I had nearly 2,000 plants and gave away buckets of beautiful blooms all summer long. These are the best flowers ever, and I want everyone to enjoy them.

Lisianthus, Eustoma grandiflorum, (commonly called prairie gentian, bluebell gentian) are valued for many reasons including their resemblance to roses, their long vase life as cut flowers, and their unique beauty. They come in many vibrant colors, romantic soft tones, and mysterious bicolor flowers.  In addition to their colors and shape, they are sought after by florists for their strong stems, lush succulent leaves, and graceful buds that continue to open in a vase for several weeks.  They are hardy in USDA hardiness zones 8-10. Lisianthus is not hard to grow, and starting them from seeds may be your best option if you want to have these gorgeous flowers blooming in your garden this summer.

Rosanne Green Lisianthus
Photo by My Thanh Kim

Lisianthus stems can be 18-36″ tall
Photo by My Thanh Kim

Lisianthus blooming in the author’s garden. Photo by My Thanh Kim

January is the perfect time to start lisianthus seeds

It’s January. It’s dark and cold. Though it is too early to start many seeds indoors but it is not too early to start lisianthus. Since they need at least 6 months from planting to bloom, starting them early is a must. Growing lisianthus from seeds is not for the faint of heart. They need constant attention for several weeks if not months. You may need to try multiple times before you can master the skill.  Follow these tips and with some practice and patience, you’ll be able to get many beautiful plants for your garden.

Get started with seeds, a container, seed starting mix

Make sure you get seeds from a reputable source. Lisianthus seeds can be challenging to germinate so make sure the seeds are fresh. The germination rate goes down with older seeds. You want to start with the best seeds possible. Seeds from reputable companies should come in pelleted form for easy handling. Seeds can also be collected from mature flowers. They must be handled with care because they are tiny like specs of dust.

Choose a container or tray that is at least 1.5″ deep to allow room for root growth unless you are starting them in soil blocks. Soil blocking is a method of starting seeds that allows for healthy root growth. Sterilize the container before planting the seeds to prevent diseases.

Don’t start in garden soil. Instead, choose a sterile seed starting mix that has either coco coir or peat moss. Since lisianthus seeds are so tiny, you’ll need a medium that is as fine as possible to allow for better contact with the seeds, sifting out all the large pieces before using it.

Lisianthus seed pods contain tiny seeds.
Photo by My Thanh Kim

Lisianthus seedlings. Photo by My Thanh Kim

ABC purple, Voyage 2 green, ABC green, and Rosanne green lisianthus. Photo by My Thanh Kim

Light, temperature, and moisture are critical to seed germination

Lisianthus seeds are considered some of the most difficult to germinate but provided with the right conditions, you’ll have a better chance of success. One of the most important things to remember is that lisianthus seeds need light to germinate. Sow the seeds on the surface of the seed starting mix and do not cover them. Keep the seeds from drying out by misting them with a spray bottle several times a day. Cover the tray with a clear plastic cover until they germinate in 10-14 days. The seeds germinate best at a temperature of 70 degrees Fahrenheit.

Congratulate yourself when the seeds germinate

If the seeds have germinated, pat yourself on the back. You’ve done the hard part. When about 50% of the seeds have germinated, remove the plastic cover. Place the seedlings under grow lights and fertilize lightly every week. Seedlings can be planted in the garden when they have 4 sets of true leaves. Lisianthus can tolerate some frost so they can be planted outside 6 weeks before the date of your last frost. Plant them in a sunny location in well-drained soil and water when the soil is dry. If everything goes well you will have beautiful blooms in July or August.

Quick Summary Tips

Getting lisianthus seeds to germinate is not hard but requires commitment and patience. Here is a summary of the tips to help get the seeds to germinate.

1. Fill a tray or container with some fine and sterile seed starting mix.
2. Sow the seeds on the surface of the mix. They need light to germinate so do not cover them with the mix.
3. Spray a few times a day to prevent the mix from drying out but do not over-water.
4. Cover the tray with a clear plastic cover to retain moisture.
5. Place under light to germinate. A desk lamp, LED light, or fluorescent shop light will work.
6. Keep the tray at room temperature around 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
7. Remove the plastic cover once about 50% of the seeds germinated (10-14 days).
8. Feed lightly every week. Place under grow lights.
9. Plant out in the garden or container once they have 4 sets of true leaves.
10. It may take multiple attempts to be successful but keep practicing. They are worth it.

About the Author:

My Thanh Kim is a graduate of the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener Class of 2022. She currently serves as the greenhouse co-manager for the SCMG. She has a BS in biochemistry from Tulane University and a teaching credential for San Diego State University.

Resources

https://sakataornamentals.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/13/2022/02/Lisianthus-Cut-Flower-0921-SAKATA.pdf

Zigler, Lisa Mason (2014) Cool flowers: How to grow and enjoy long-blooming hardy annual flowers using cool weather techniques. St. Lynn’s Press, Pittsburg, PA.

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener, may be directed to:  WSU Skagit County Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination.  To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Skagit Master Gardeners Share Favorites from Their Bookshelves

By Ginny Bode, Skagit County Master Gardener

Since I was young, I remember the happiness of curling up with a good book as the holiday festivities came to a close. Whether I found a book in the library or received it as a gift, my memories of books and Christmas go hand in hand. Now, often the non-fiction book in my hand is gardening related.

As a recent trainee and now graduate of Skagit County’s WSU Master Gardener program, a new world of books has opened. Early in the program we were taught to find scientifically-proven solutions for the challenges gardeners face instead of anecdotal remedies. Program leaders shared the best reference books for plant propagation, identification, pruning, even noxious weeds and pests found in our area.

The key identifier among Master Gardeners is desire to learn, particularly in their area of focus. When joining the program, I soon became aware that I was among people who not only shared my interest in growing plants, they were also very generous in sharing their knowledge and resources.

To create this list of books for gift giving I solicited fellow Master Gardener classmates for their recommendations to include along with those of program teachers. The following books are top-of-mind choices for both inspiration and reference this holiday season.

For Inspiration:

Windcliff by Dan Hinkley
It may look like a coffee table book, but Windcliff by Dan Hinkley is so much more than stunning photographs. Renowned plant hunter Dan Hinkley shares the stories of creating his two private gardens, Heronswood and Windcliff on Washington’s Kitsap peninsula. Through these stories he captures what it means to be a gardener. His warm prose with the photographs makes this a book you’ll go back to often, putting words to the passion for plants and creating outdoor spaces.
Animal, Vegetable, Miracle by Barbara Kingsolver
This book by best-selling fiction writer Barbara Kingsolver tells the story of the year she and her family attempted to live off only what they could grow or buy locally. An early proponent of the ‘eat local’ movement, Kingsolver brings to life our connection with the food we eat and the value of making meals together.
Handbook of Northwest Gardening by Anne Lovejoy
Considered a classic read for gardeners, Anne was one of the first to write about using organic techniques in the ornamental garden. Focused on building a sustainable garden, Lovejoy emphasizes good soil preparation, composting, mulching, and–the Master Gardener mantra-Right Plant, Right Place.

Skagit Authors:

Erin Benzakein’s books Discovering Dahlias, The Cut Flower Garden and a Year in Flowers, are an excellent resource for gardeners whose focus is growing flowers to share as well as to create a profitable business.

A Little Bit of Land by Jessica Gigot
This recent publication by Jessica Gigot opens the door for readers to her life as a sustainable farmer in the Skagit Valley. The joys and challenges of small scale farming, as well as making her way in an often male-dominated industry, and the path that led her to our valley.

Hinkley’s warm prose with stunning photographs captures his passion for plants and creating outdoor spaces.

Bring the first blooms of spring to your garden sooner by using Zeigler’s techniques for jumpstarting hardy annuals.

The American Horiticultural Society’s Plant Propagation book is a go-to reference for propagating plants in Skagit Master Gardener’s plant house at the Discovery Garden.

For Nuts and Bolts Learning:

Cool Flowers by Lisa Mason Ziegler
Between the first frost in November, and the warmer days of spring, we long to bring in the first blooms of spring and enjoy the beauty inside the home. Lisa Ziegler’s book Cool Flowers explains how to get a jump on early spring blossoms. She profiles over 25 long blooming ‘hardy annuals’ which can be planted during cool conditions rather than waiting for the warmth of spring. Embracing the Master Gardener mantra, Right Plant, Right Place, local gardeners have applied her techniques in our climate with gorgeous results.
American Hort. Society’s: Plant Propagation by Alan Toogood
Rather than taking an unvetted opinion from the Internet, seasoned Master Gardeners use this book as a go-to reference guide for propagating almost any plant. If you’re wondering when to cut, where to cut, when to use root hormone, or when just a cup of water works fine, you’ll find this fully illustrated guide to be an indispensable resource for multiplying your favorite plants.
Kew Gardener Guides:
The Kew Gardens, part of England’s Royal Botanical Gardens is home to 27,000 plant species and subspecies. The science gained from their garden research is captured in a wide range of books for gardeners, including many children’s books. The company’s garden books cover topics as diverse as growing drought friendly plants, medical plants, and recipes for what you grow.
The Apple Grower: A Guide for Growing Organic Apples by Michael Phillips
Looking for a way to grow good fruit organically? Orchardist and researcher Michael Phillips first wrote The Apple Grower almost twenty years ago. Now updated, Phillips guides readers through creating a healthy orchard ecosystem as well as evaluating natural strategies against pests.
100 Plants to Feed the Bees: Provide a Healthy Habitat to Help Pollinators Thrive by The Xerces Society
Bees play a critical role in our ecosystem. This user-friendly guide helps home gardeners create a healthy environment for pollination. Readers will be inspired by this book’s pictures and for attracting bees, butterflies or hummingbirds, learning how to protect and attract bees throughout the season.

When giving books for gardeners, unless they are pure photo inspiration (which truly has its place on a dark January evening in the PNW) look for books with clear instructions, pictures and/or illustrations. Look for climate relevance, i.e., while the world of succulents is enticing, many can be challenging to protect through our Northwest winters. Books listing both the common name and the proper name are helpful for both the seasoned and novice gardener. Find a book for a specific interest if known, i.e., bird feeding, vegetable growing in small spaces, kitchen gardens, or nature around us.

We live in one of the most wonderful places on earth for gardening. Joining the Master Gardener program for many is like finding your tribe. Whatever your growing focus is, the Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener program is an excellent resource for those interested in plants and learning to grow better.

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Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener, may be directed to:  WSU Skagit County Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination.  To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Jump Start Your 2023 Garden with Winter Sowing

By Kelly Maupin, WSU Skagit County Master Gardener

An easy, low-maintenance method for seed starting

The dark days of winter are upon us. As a gardener, this is the time of year we pull out the seed catalogs and start planning for next year. If you’re like me, you may already have been collecting and buying seeds throughout the summer and fall. Now is the time to prepare for winter sowing.

I first tried the winter sowing method last winter. It appealed to me because I can be a lazy gardener and I liked the ‘set it and forget it nature’ of this method of seed starting. I began with a few gallon jugs and before I knew it the number had blossomed to 40! I give full credit for this technique to Trudi Davidoff, who pioneered the method in upstate New York over 20 years ago.

The Advantages of Winter Sowing as Compared to Other Methods

–    No lights needed
–    No trays, tables, or shelves
–    Minimal watering is required”
–    Up-cycling of containers
–    Seedlings are weed free
–     Minimizes the risk of not dampening or hardening off well enough because seeds are stratified and germinate in their ‘milk jug’ environments naturally.

You can be creative if you use containers other than jug-type containers, make sure you can cut vent holes in the lids for air transpiration and widen these as the plants grow!

Place a coffee filter in the bottom of the jug (to keep the slugs out and hold soil in) and add pre-moistened potting soil to a level just below the hinge line.

Tape the jug closed using clear poly or duct tape around the circumference. Place jugs in the sun, a SE location is best. Snow or rain will do some of your watering for you, but make sure your spot has good drainage so they are not sitting in water.

Materials you will need:

• Clean translucent milk or juice jugs without lids
• Other large, clean, rigid clear plastic containers like those used for roasted chicken, or salad greens with lids
• Utility knife or scissors
• Potting soil without moisture control or fertilizer
• Poly or duct tape
• Plant markers
• UV-resistant, waterproof marker
• Coffee filters
• Seeds
• Spray bottle and water bottle with holes in cap (for watering)

Steps for Winter Sowing

1) Turn the jug/container bottom up and cut or burn multiple small drainage holes in the bottom. I recommend adding multiple bottom-side drainage holes because in our climate having only one center drainage hole didn’t work well. To do this, I use an old glue gun, making sure to have good ventilation when burning plastic. A utility knife or drill will also work for creating drainage holes.

2) Use a ruler to measure and mark a cut line 4″ from the bottom of the jug. Mark the line with a marker all around the jug.

3) Using a utility scissors or knife, carefully cut the jug along the line you have measured, leaving a hinge at the back of the jug under the handle so that the top portion will flip open while still attached.

4) Place a coffee filter in the bottom of the jug (to keep the slugs out and hold soil in) and add pre-moistened potting soil to a level just below the hinge line.

5) Label the container with the plant name and date in three places using a no-fade, UV, water-resistant marker. Label the bottom of the jug, the top of the jug, and the plant marker in the soil. Household Sharpie-type markers are not recommended because the info will fade after months of being outside.

6) Plant your seeds to the recommended depth on the packaging and moisten them with water from a spray bottle.

7) Tape the jug closed using clear poly or duct tape around the circumference. Place jugs in the sun, a SE location is best. Snow or rain will do some of your watering for you, but make sure your spot has good drainage, so they are not sitting in water.

8) Check for moisture in the jugs at least once a week.  Peek inside the jug, looking to see if the soil looks moist. Another way to check for adequate moisture is noticeable condensation on the inside hips of the jug. In the early days, I only watered about once a month. If they need watering, use the water bottle you’ve prepared with the holes in the lid, squirting a little water on to wet the soil.

9) As the seedlings germinate and grow and the weather warms up, open the containers during the day and close them at night.

10) When seedlings have pushed out their true leaves after the initial cotyledons, and the weather has warmed as needed, transplant them into the ground or a 4″ pot. You can pull out 2-3 seedlings at a time using the taffy method or use the brownie method and cut them into blocks of seedlings for planting.

What to Plant and When 

December through February: For our zones, this would start around December 21st, on Winter Solstice when the daylight is at its shortest.

Examples of hardy annuals and perennials that can be started in winter include coneflower, columbine, sweet pea, lupine, native grasses, lavender, hollyhock, spinach, kale, thyme, oregano, and parsley.

March through April: Tender annuals and vegetables can be started.  Examples include Cosmos, Zinnia, marigold, Alyssum, Lobelia, Impatiens, beets, broccoli, basil, cilantro, and lettuce. Using this method, wait until April to start tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, melons, squash, and pumpkins.

When I started, I originally focused on starting perennials. Later, I sowed annuals and other seeds I had collected around my yard or traded with friends, but be careful not to plant late tender annuals like cosmos and zinnias too early. Pay close attention to the general planting dates I’ve outlined above. Despite planting some of these tender annuals too early, I still had a nearly 90% germination rate overall.

From last year’s trials, I also learned green algae can grow on the surface of the potting soil. This year I will add more drainage holes and use potting soil that does not contain moisture control products since PNW winters are typically ‘a bit moister’ than the winters in the eastern US where this method originated.

Another important reminder, not all seeds will germinate by May. Don’t be disappointed, be patient.  Some seeds like columbine, milkweed, and others can take months or longer so don’t throw those milk jugs out too quickly–you may be surprised by what germinates late.  As the days and nights grow warmer and the plants get bigger, you’ll open up the jugs.

I hope you enjoy this seed starting technique as much as I do and share your bounty with family, friends, and neighbors. Once you get the hang of it you will have plenty of plant babies to gift. Cheers and happy gardening!

RESOURCES:

• Starting Seeds in Winter, Lori Voll-Wallace, PennState Extension extension.psu.edu/starting-seeds-in-winter
• Winter Seed Sowing, Nicole Flowers-Kimmerle, Illinois Extension
  illinois.edu/news-releases/winter-seed-sowing

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener, may be directed to:  WSU Skagit County Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination.  To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Preserve the Color of Your Gardens Through Natural Dyes

By Jennifer Eddleman, Skagit County WSU Extension Master Gardener

As the summer blooms fade and the bright hues of autumn give way to the gray of November, gardeners and crafters alike find themselves looking for ways to brighten their days. One way to retain some seasonal color is to grow and create your own natural dyes. Whether you’re a knitter, a quilter, a crafter, or you just want some fun kids’ projects – homemade watercolors or Playdough, or naturally-dyed Easter eggs for instance – natural materials provide an endless array of magical color options.

The basics: dyestuffs, mordants and modifiers

Sources of natural dyes are everywhere: in flowers, leaves, roots, bark, berries, fruits, and vegetables. Plants provide the dyestuff. The dye bath is created by cooking or soaking the dyestuff and then straining the solution. The amount of plant material used, and the simmering and soaking time will determine the depth of color. Washing fibers, in a process called scouring, readies them for the dyeing process. Because colors from natural dye sources can be somewhat less colorfast than modern synthetic options, they benefit from the help of mordants and modifiers when dyeing fibers.

Marigold blossoms are an excellent source of color for natural dyes. Photo by Jennifer Eddleman

Hopi Red Amaranth Dye yields an array of shades.  Photo by Jennifer Eddleman

Mordants make a difference in colors. Here, three shades of color are produced by beets manipulated by the choice of mordant. Photo by Jennifer Eddleman

A mordant is a substance that helps bind the color to the fiber to help it last longer and resist fading in sunlight. There are several mordant methods, including soaking your fiber in a mordant solution, adding the mordant directly to the dye bath, or using old aluminum, copper, or iron pots to impart the mordanting qualities of those metals when you soak your yarn or fabric. Online shops dedicated to the craft of dyeing offer mordants in powder form, and you can also create them yourself. Rhubarb leaves, normally discarded because they are inedible, can be cooked down for a mordant that also imparts a yellowish hue to the colors you’re creating, and bark from trees such as cedar can be soaked for a tannin mordant. Aluminum sulfate, used on animal fibers (wool, silk, mohair, alpaca, etc.) happens to be the main ingredient in baking powder, which many people already have on hand.

Modifiers, used before or after dyeing a fiber, can completely change the color of a particular dyestuff. Baking soda and vinegar make excellent inexpensive and effective modifiers by adjusting the acidity level of the dye. Red cabbage makes a great example. Cooking down shredded red cabbage leaves yields an excellent dye bath. Adding vinegar will create a pink or lavender-colored dye, while the addition of baking soda yields blue! Making black bean soup? Soak the dried black beans for 24 hours before cooking and save the soaking water. Vinegar and baking soda will have the same effect as red cabbage dye.

Growing your own dye:

Starting a dye garden can be as simple as adding a few extra plants to an already-established bed. If you’re a vegetable gardener, you have excellent low-commitment opportunities. Beets, red cabbage, and marigolds are common additions to the garden and are excellent dyestuffs. Onion skins are one of the best sources of natural dye. Red onions and yellow onions produce different colors, so consider growing both. Sunflowers make great supports for pole beans, so consider growing Hopi Black Dye sunflowers in your garden and planting black beans around the base. Rhubarb leaves, as mentioned before, are good for mordant, and the roots can be used for dye. This makes rhubarb a multi-purpose plant. If you have fruit trees the bark and leaves of your pear, plum, and cherry trees can be utilized for dyestuff, giving you a use for the trimmings when you prune your trees. Berries can be juiced down and used to create pinks, purples and blues, but be aware that they are “fugitive” dyes, meaning they may fade easily to a grayish color over time and mordants are especially important.

Your existing landscaping may already include dye plants. Heather, Hibiscus, sumac, juniper, Eucalyptus, Oregon grape and willow shrubs, bracken ferns, birch trees, and more are common landscape plants that are also known as dye sources. Flowers you may already be growing, like dahlias, hollyhocks, and daffodils, are useful. Choose the brightest, most color-rich blossoms at the early height of their bloom for the best results. Some annuals that are easy to grow from seed and fit nicely into flower beds include Calendula, marigold, safflower, and amaranth. One variety specifically grown for natural dye purposes is Hopi Red Dye amaranth. If you decide to sow seed or add starts to your existing flower beds, be sure to check your seed packets or tags for the mature size of your plants and allow enough room for them to grow to their potential.

You may choose to create a garden specifically dedicated to growing dye plants. In addition to the landscape shrubs and flowers mentioned previously there are many perennial herbs, flowers and shrubs that will come back yearly and make great anchor plants- madder, agrimony, and goldenrod for example. Leave room for annuals such as those mentioned before, as well as indigo and blue butterfly pea flowers.

Getting started

A quick online search or trip to your local library will yield a plethora of books, websites and blogs dedicated to natural dyeing. There are some great resources out there that provide instructions from start to finish, with all you need to know about equipment, processes, variations, growing and foraging for dye plants, and many of them include projects and recipes to give you a place to start. Plan now for next year and have some fun!

Resources:

A Garden to Dye For: How to use plants from the garden to create natural colors for Fabrics and Fibers; Chris McLaughlin

Wild Color: The Complete Guide to Making and Using Natural Dyes; Jenny Dean

The Craft of Natural Dyeing: Glowing Colors from the Plant World; Jenny Dean

Colors from Nature: Growing, Collecting, & Using Natural Dyes; Bobbi A. McRae

The Wild Dyer: A Maker’s Guide to Natural Dyes with Projects to Create and Stitch; Abigail Booth

The Complete Guide to Natural Dyeing: Techniques and Recipes for Dyeing Fabrics, Yarns, and Fibers at Home; Eva Lambert & Tracy Kendall

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener, may be directed to:  WSU Skagit County Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination.  To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.

Master Gardeners share their overwintering techniques

By Anne Hays, Skagit County WSU Master Gardener

Dahlias, first imported from Mexico and Central America, provide a rich and enthusiastic floral display in Pacific Northwest gardens. Continuous hybridization of Asteraceae has resulted in the development of a plethora of colors, flower forms, and sizes. The blossoms can be as tiny as the minion under 2 inches, or as large as the giant or dinner plate size at over 10 inches. Conventional wisdom incorporated in most PNW and national reference guides for Dahlia growers just about universally recommend digging Dahlia tubers in the fall and storing them in a cool dry place. The reference materials I consulted noted that while dahlias are considered hardy in our zones – digging and storing is their preferred recommendation for overwintering dahlias in our Zones 8-9.

I then looked out my window. My street garden is abundant with tall, healthy dahlias, and I didn’t dig them last winter. So, I decided to do a very unscientific survey of WSU Extension Skagit County Master Gardeners to see what their preferences and protocols for digging dahlias and overwintering them indoors.

Master Gardeners are a treasure trove of local gardening knowledge, underscoring the depth of their experience and knowledge and differing opinions. Their gardens represent a variety of unique “microclimates” found in our area. The following is a brief synopsis of replies I received with a notation on where their garden is located.

Karen from Camano has ten years’ experience raising dahlias. At first, she was a Dahlia digger, but now she leaves them in the ground after struggling with mold issues trying to store them. She cuts her 150 Dahlia stalks after the first frost, covers them with a layer of mulch and then with sword ferns and rocks to keep water from rotting the dahlias.

Among gardeners, selecting a favorite Dahlia is unique to each individual. Dahlias range in size from under 2″ to over 10″ and are classified into 18 categories by form. Photo by Anne Hayes

The Thomas Edison dahlia is a beautiful example of the deep vivid hues found among the fifteen different colors and color combinations recognized by the American Dahlia Society.  Photo by Anne Hayes

Though the dahlia’s origins can be traced back to the high mountains of Central America, the plants thrive in the moist, moderate climate of the Pacific Northwest, blooming from midsummer until the first frost.

Jan from La Conner is a recent convert to the in-ground overwintering school of thought. Until last year she routinely dug her dahlias, wrapped them in newspaper and stored them in plastic. She left them in the ground last season and intends to again, though she plans to cover the planting area with cardboard and heavy mulch.

Rin from Anacortes describes her soil as sandy and has determined her tubers do best when left in the ground — mostly because she hasn’t found an overwintering strategy that doesn’t result in mold issues.

Linda from Orcas Island digs her tubers, being careful not to damage or pierce the tubers. She then rinses the soil and lays them flat to dry for a day or two. She brushes the tubers – inspecting them for any signs of rot and places them in cardboard boxes using vermiculite. She places the top of the box on the tubers after barely moistening the vermiculite. She does not allow the tubers to touch and stores the box in her basement.

Allison on Samish Island digs her dahlias and stores them in cardboard with peat moss on top in a cool dry place in her garage.

Among all the WSU Extension Skagit County Master Gardeners I contacted, dividing dahlias is typically undertaken every three years in the spring. Many of the local Master Gardener’s caution that new Dahlia starts are “slug candy” and recommend careful slug containment and control at the start of a new Dahlia season. Dahlias need good soil, enriched with organic matter and some recommend bone meal. Planting depths vary from 6 inches to one foot, and many recommend placing stakes for larger varieties as you plant the tubers to avoid damaging the tubers.

I also asked each of the responders for their recommendations on their methods for placing cut dahlias in display vases. The consensus was to place them in water as soon as possible using a fresh cut and change the water frequently. Many mentioned using a floral preservative.

What was abundantly clear from the replies I received is the passionate enthusiasm among those in Dahlia growing communities! Color, abundance, ease of growing, all were mentioned as reasons to add dahlias to your garden. If you decide to include dahlias in your garden next spring, the WSU Extension Skagit County Master Gardeners are available at Plant Clinics throughout the county to offer guidance and answer questions. Please don’t hesitate to give us a call at 360-428-4270 to be directed to a Plant Clinic near you.

Resources:

Gardening in the Pacific Northwest, Carol Hall & Norman Hall, Timber Press, 2008 Ornamental

Bulbs, Corms & Tubers, A. R. Rees, C A B International, 1992

Sunset Western Garden Book, Sunset Publishing, Edited by Kathleen Norris Brenzel Gardening in the Pacific Northwest, Paul Bonine and Amy Campion, Timber Press

Questions about home gardening or becoming a master gardener, may be directed to:  WSU Skagit County Extension Office, 11768 Westar Lane, Suite A, Burlington, WA 98233; by phone: 360-428-4270; or via the website: www.skagit.wsu.edu/mg

Washington State University Extension helps people develop leadership skills and use research-based knowledge to improve economic status and quality of life. Cooperating agencies: Washington State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and Skagit County. Extension programs and policies are available to all without discrimination.  To request disability accommodations contact us at least ten days in advance.